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Posted: 10/9/2015 7:04:20 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
I am building an AR 15 on an Anderson upper and lower. I have all the parts nessecary to assemble the rifle. It is mostly assembled as it is. But, here is my question. My barrel did not come with the dimples on the bottom for the set screws that tighten the gas block. (I knew this when I bought the barrel.) Are the dimples absolutely nessecary for attaching the gas block? I do understand that they will make the Block Installation more secure, but am just wondering if they are a must do thing.... Not required at all |
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Posted: 10/9/2015 7:09:30 PM EDT
[#2]
Barrel divots are a breeze with a drill press. Set up your gun and test fire it so you are sure it works.
Then remove 1 set screw, and clamp the barrel loosely. Place a drill bit that fits the set screw hole Put a similar sized bit in the chuck. Line up the 2 drill bits so they are parellel. Then tighten the vice. Place the drill bit that fits closest in the empty set screw hole. Set the depth stop to just cut the hole to 80% of the hole I. D. Then replace the screw, and do the other one. |
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Posted: 10/9/2015 7:13:46 PM EDT
[#3]
Thank you guys. I just wanted a bit of reassurance on that....
I dont have a drill press. I have a regular electric hand drill, and that would make it very difficult to do. lol... |
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Posted: 10/9/2015 8:03:02 PM EDT
[#4]
You can mount it without dimples without issue. However, I dimple all of mine for piece of mind.
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Posted: 10/9/2015 8:32:25 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you guys. I just wanted a bit of reassurance on that.... I dont have a drill press. I have a regular electric hand drill, and that would make it very difficult to do. lol... Not really, check this out. LINK Did my nitrided barrel after watching this. If your barrel has been treated (melonite or nitride) make sure to get good drill bits or you will be pissing in the wind. |
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Posted: 10/9/2015 9:55:32 PM EDT
[#6]
geissele's low pro gasblock comes with instructions that say use a hand drill if that's what you have, fwiw.
I bought a barrel with one hole already there, and Adco says one dimple is plenty, so.. |
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Posted: 10/9/2015 11:34:29 PM EDT
[#7]
I've never dimpled and the GBs have not come loose. If your really worried, get a clamp on GB.
YHM GB |
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Posted: 10/10/2015 12:10:41 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
geissele's low pro gasblock comes with instructions that say use a hand drill if that's what you have, fwiw. I bought a barrel with one hole already there, and Adco says one dimple is plenty, so.. Actually adco says dimples are completely unnecessary |
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Posted: 10/10/2015 5:55:30 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can mount it without dimples without issue. However, I dimple all of mine for piece of mind. +1 |
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Posted: 10/10/2015 9:30:53 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
+1 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You can mount it without dimples without issue. However, I dimple all of mine for piece of mind. +1 I would go with this......I have had a block move forward during firing. You can find a bench top drill press for $50 on up. |
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Posted: 10/10/2015 9:36:57 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually adco says dimples are completely unnecessary Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
geissele's low pro gasblock comes with instructions that say use a hand drill if that's what you have, fwiw. I bought a barrel with one hole already there, and Adco says one dimple is plenty, so.. Actually adco says dimples are completely unnecessary Sure they do good work, but I can't see dimpling as a negative. I've done it a few times with a hand drill, and a spare gas block as a jig. Just make sure everything is aligned, and it helps if the barrel is put in a vice. It's even better if you have a way to brace an arm and steady the hand drill. Dimpling combined with rockset, and proper torque values Red loctite can also be used but barrel temps may exceed the red loctite's heat rating. But still it's better than nothing, especially when properly torqued down/dimpled. It will at least prevent the screws from vibrating off. If you want it on for good though, you can always get it pinned. |
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Posted: 10/10/2015 9:58:07 AM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 10/11/2015 1:35:51 PM EDT
[#13]
When I did my build, it was my understanding that the dimples did nothing to hold anything.
If the dimples are holding something, it's loose. The dimples are there so when the set screws dig into the barrel, deforming it slightly, you can get it apart. It's a place for the material to go. |
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Posted: 10/12/2015 11:30:35 AM EDT
[#14]
The dimples are there to help you locate the GB, not secure it. Dimples make it idiot proof.
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Posted: 10/12/2015 9:49:49 PM EDT
[#15]
-I have the roushe low-profile gas block(the ebay one).
I never dimpled my barrel. I applied Loctite but it probably burned off by now (Im not taking my rail off to check) its seen 3000ish rounds in its current setup with no issues. dimpling would be nice if you care enough to do it, but I don't think it warrants the effort. Im a 19 year old college student(MECE) so im probably not the best source. I do beat on my gun pretty hard though(three-gun). |
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Posted: 10/13/2015 6:36:07 PM EDT
[#16]
While dimpling is not absolutely necessary it not only provides more posittive indexing of the GB on the barrel but also eliminates the raised burrs caused when the set screws are tightened directly into the barrel material. If you have a tight fitting GB you may have to pound the GB off over these burrs the next time the GB is removed. With dimples, the burrs are recessed down in the bottom of the dimples and do not interfere with GB removal.
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Posted: 10/14/2015 1:46:03 PM EDT
[#17]
I prefer to dimple and use the BRD jig.
A properly dimpled barrel and set-screwed gas block is going nowhere. Yes, pinning is still the best, but a dimpled barrel and set screw gas block will require an enormous amount of torque on it for it to move. You're going to need a pipe wrench to rotate it, and you will have to physically shear the set screw pins to do that... ...and by the time that's done, you will certainly have damaged the gas block and barrel. ymmv |
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Posted: 10/14/2015 4:20:53 PM EDT
[#18]
I dimpled mine with a hand drill. You don't have to drill a perfectly straight hole like you are drilling for oil. It only needs to be as deep as the taper on the drill bit. I installed my gas block and gas tube with one screw, and blew through it to make sure the holes were lined up. When I removed the gas block I used the mark left by the set screw to locate my center punch. After the first one was done I reinstalled the gas block using the new dimple and marked the second hole with the set screw, just like the first. Removed it again and drilled the second dimple. Sounds like a lot of work but it went quickly and was a piece of cake.
My theory on the dimples: If the set screws do come loose, you will probably find the problem before they loosen enough for the gas block to move very far. I'm not sure this is a valid reason but ......everyone has an opinion 
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