I have been using ar15s for some time now. im looking to start building some with my son daughter and wife. What tools or kits do you recommended so i can have what i need.   Please no negative comments

Definitely start with a vise block to hold the lower, it makes life a lot easier. Then find a good quality multi wrench that includes a buffer nut wrench etc. and a good set of punches. The vise block for the upper is nice too if you are going to build from a stripped upper. The handguard wrench is a waste of $ in my opinion. I'm sure I'm forgetting something.

You're forgetting the torque wrench if you're building the upper.



 

Yep I take that for granted since I have them for years working on the cars.

These are probably the best AR build videos on the web...
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11004/guntechdetail/how_to_build_an_ar-15_video
All of the tools used are called out in the videos.

My two criticisms....

1) Use barrel blocks when working on a muzzle device, not a receiver block.

2) Use an approved barrel nut grease like Aero Shell 33MS on the receiver threads and B/E torque shoulder.

Good set of punches (Grace are nice), gas block pin punch will save headaches, bolt catch pin punch will save a gouge in your lower and I like the Geiselle Reaction Rod for building uppers.

I built a lower with a cheap set of Harbor Freight punches, a cheap HF hammer, a clevis pin for the front take down, locking jaw pliers, long handled screw driver, armorers wrench, and a white plastic garbage bag. This was done sitting on the floor of my apartment. It sucked. The parts kit was DPMS and if it could be out of spec, it was out of spec. Took me two days to do it, working one hour on the lower, and one hour talking myself out of throwing everything out the window. Take the advice of the people here and make your life simple.

For an easier time building a lower:
If this is your first time, watch this video AT LEAST three times: Building an AR Lower. The third time, take your receiver and mimic what he is doing.
Use a vice - it helps...a lot!
Sacrifice an old crappy magazine, or get a magazine vice block.
Get a quality set of punches. Grace is nice.
Get a quality set of roll pin starter punches - I would have traded my left testi for a set.
Get a decent small hammer for the punches.
Get a clevis pin for the front take down.
Get a white garbage bag. Anytime you could launch something, build it in the bag. I launched the front take down pin twice, before I got it in there. Recovery was easy.
Wear safety glasses. Springs, etc can launch with some force. You only have the one pair of eyes.
Get a block of wood for tapping the pin into the trigger guard, or use some sort of pliers.
Get a roll of masking or painters tape. The only reason the lower didn't look like it went 10 rounds with Freddy Krueger is because it looked like the damn mummy!
Get a good armorers wrench. It keeps the buttstock from becoming butthurt.
Oil - CPL is lovely
Quality Lower Parts Kit (ie CMMG, Spikes, etc)

I haven't built an upper yet, but that's coming soon. Hope this helped so far...

People will knock them as not needed but get a roll pin pusher tool and a bolt catch tool from little crow gunworks.

Tools I recommend for working on ARs:

-5" vise mounted to a sturdy table
-Magpul BEV block
-Magpul wrench
-Craftsman torque wrench
-1/2" breaker bar
-Grace/Lyman/Stanley punches
-hammer
-Aeroshell 33MS grease

READ THE ASSEMBLY STICKIES AT THE TOP OF THE DIY FORUM FIRST.

I used a pair of taped up vice grips to install the roll pins.
I used old drill bits and whatever small hammer was handy to set them centered.
I used a pair of 18" channel lock pliers to "torque" the barrel nut.
I used a set of vice jaw blocks and a vice to hold the upper, others have used a wooden block that fits the mag well attached to something firmly.

The biggest misconception is that the barrel nut "needs" to be torqued, or a special grease used. First, the barrel nut torque is a minimum of 30 foot pounds, not to exceed 85 or it will strip the threads off the nose of the upper. Tighten down three times then turn far enough to let the gas tube pass, How much is that? Anywhere from 30 to 85 pounds - a 55 pound range. That is far from precise in a world that requires inch pound torque on manifold intake bolts. it's also less than required for the average lug nut on a car.

Which brings up anti corrosive grease - if anything needed it, an aluminum and steel joint could as galvanic corrosion could develop. it's a minute electric current that sets up when the two are in contact. So, what does your alloy wheels bolted to your hubs look like in between after ten years of salty winters? Some light scaling and not much more, that's largely no huge worry for most people On the AR15 it's a parkerized nut on an anodized nose thread, both of which minimize metal to metal contact directly. The service life on the M16 is usually rated at 20 years per generation, and the only notice we have that corrosion is a problem is one note in the TM on local assembly - which most unit armorer's don't perform. They send it up the chain to depot.

Use some kind of grease and like as not you will see nothing happened when you take it apart in a few years.

I recently picked up an "armorer's wrench" which is not and never was issue, it works pretty well tightening up barrel nuts, castle nuts and flash hiders. Nice to have, not terribly important. Got alone fine without it the first build, which means my "investment" in tools was $Zero as I used what I already had. If you know tools then you can see why I chose what I did.

Those who don't think they need to blow money on special ones that never get used for anything else. It's their money, their choice,  just be aware there is a choice and you can make it to suit yourself.

+1 on the Magpul BEV block. High value for the dollar.

Not meant to insult or demean, sir, but I hope new builders use extreme caution here....


I used a pair of taped up vice grips to install the roll pins.
Some are happy to use this technique but a hammer and punch is the proper method for a clean, no mar, professional job.

I used old drill bits and whatever small hammer was handy to set them centered.
So much easier with the correct punch and light hammer.

I used a pair of 18" channel lock pliers to "torque" the barrel nut.
This is straight out of the Kitchen Table Gun Plumbers manual right here.
Don't do this. You are not working on a bathroom sink pea trap.

I used a set of vice jaw blocks and a vice to hold the upper..
This is legit. You can actually find this lower receiver clamping method in the TM but it must be done right or risk damaging the lower.
It is used when torquing/removing a receiver extension.

...others have used a wooden block that fits the mag well attached to something firmly.
Do not use a "magwell block" for receiver support for any heavy torquing. Use only for cleaning or other "light work".

Will this help?

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/195774/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-ar-15-armorers-professional-kit

Built my first lower on my apartment floor after moving the coffee table while watching a movie. Took me an hour at a slow pace with no mars using only a duct tape, plastic bags, a couple of punches, Allen keys for guides, a tiny hammer, and vice grips. Use of feet required. Oh and a clevis pin. That was the scariest part and it wasn't even notable. I used to build robotic automotive alignment systems that took a week of straight assembly to complete; take your time.