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Posted: 9/16/2007 2:10:47 PM EDT
[#1]
I just did mine last night, I tried to outline the parts on posted board, but ended up WAY off. So I just pressed the rifle and parts down into the foam, outlined them with a sharpy, and cut... Turned out fairly decent, my hands aren't as steady as they used to be!
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Posted: 9/27/2007 6:38:20 PM EDT
[#2]
Nice job I used a electric knife did a good job but not that nice. I will be looking for a hot wire for me next job.
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Posted: 10/4/2007 6:40:50 AM EDT
[#3]
ost
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Posted: 10/4/2007 5:03:41 PM EDT
[#4]
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Posted: 10/4/2007 6:03:05 PM EDT
[#5]
OK, This is my first post on this sight. I'v hunted critters my whole life. And have a love for firearms, after getting my CPL I was turned on by Handguns (Springfield, Ruger, Taurus) so now the bug has bitten me to build an AR-15. Currently I am reading"Duncan Longs How to build an AR-15" So now people at work look at me kind of strange. Anyway, is this guy good or what? that set up looks better than anything I'v seen in any "James Bond" Movie. This is a very nice web sight and hats off to all involved.
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Posted: 10/5/2007 4:58:20 AM EDT
[#6]
First off welcome  I dont know about Duncan Long or his book, I was an ARFCOM and DIY learner... Scan through the different forums and you'll find ALOT of info and people willing to share their info with you. Good luck and again, welcome to BRD |
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Posted: 10/6/2007 9:42:53 AM EDT
[#7]
ive been putting off a case for a long time and can't really figure if i need a storm or pelican, i want as small a case as possible, and i tried case cad, it just didn't look well the shapes were to raggidy.
does anyone have some common shapes saved to share? i'm useing a 10.5" with larue rail, ctr stock, vert grip, miad, and eotech on larue riser. im thinking about jsut ordering a case to cut myself. unless someone has shapes we can doctor, ie: moving the location of a vet grip. |
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Posted: 10/6/2007 4:44:22 PM EDT
[#8]
gots to tag this one.
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Posted: 10/12/2007 6:31:44 PM EDT
[#9]
Please tag for us newbies. My Pelican looks like crap. Now I know how to fix it.
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Posted: 10/14/2007 9:51:12 PM EDT
[#10]
Definately great thread guys...
I ordered up my two Pelican cases and Im itchn to start cuttin. Finally my savage .308 and AR 15-Far-50 Conversion will have a nice manly home lol.. As soon as I finish building them lol |
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Posted: 10/28/2007 5:49:49 PM EDT
[#11]
This is to good a thread not to bump!
R4B |
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Posted: 10/28/2007 6:51:38 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 10/28/2007 7:05:32 PM EDT
[#13]
I didn't realize I even needed a high quality foam case until now
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Posted: 10/31/2007 9:11:25 AM EDT
[#14]
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Posted: 11/4/2007 2:26:07 PM EDT
[#15]
I broke the wife on the hotwire foam factory foam sutter today!
DAMN! |
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Posted: 11/4/2007 8:49:14 PM EDT
[#16]
SC-Texas there were a few extras in that plastic ziploc bag I gave to Cress. |
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Posted: 11/4/2007 9:00:40 PM EDT
[#17]
Please tack
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Posted: 11/5/2007 6:12:31 AM EDT
[#18]
Yes, I agree that this should be tacked.
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Posted: 11/7/2007 12:03:44 AM EDT
[#19]
I used some thin wire I had laying around and attached it to my Stinger rechargeable flashlight battery and it seemed to work on some pieces of foam I had. I also tried a 9 volt battery and it burned hotter but the battery started to heat up. I saw a 2 battery D cell holder at Radio Shack for under 2 bucks and may give that a try. I think I'll make a foam cutter minus the electrical until I figure out which power source works best.
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Posted: 11/7/2007 4:46:24 AM EDT
[#20]
Try using an adjustable voltage transformer from Radio Shack for the power. The kind with a switch that allows you to select multiple voltages. Then you can adjust the voltage to the wire you are using and the foam type you are cutting.
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Posted: 11/7/2007 6:01:52 AM EDT
[#21]
ld
Lessons learned. Here are photos of a State Arms Rebel damaged from what I presume to be condensation moisture. This was an FFL transfer that went from one climate controlled gun shop to another via UPS. It was shipped in the case shown with the same type of (open cell?) foam.   |
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Posted: 11/8/2007 5:59:25 PM EDT
[#22]
I did this quick and dirty, tried the 9 volt but did not heat the wire enough. Used my Stinger battery and it worked! Practiced on a piece of foam and cut it nice and dean. Now I have to figure out a way to connect the wires better to the battery. So far cost is zero. No I need to order some foam as I previously tried the razor method but didn't like it. I don't have a high dollar Pelican case, it will be for a cheaper aluminum case for my son's HP rifle.
   
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Posted: 11/13/2007 1:14:17 PM EDT
[#23]
I really need to try this myself... I did my cases a few years ago with knives and they are good enough so I will not redo them but I can always find something else to make a case for!
I really like the home made cutter above
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Posted: 11/13/2007 1:20:17 PM EDT
[#24]
That looks like a lot of rush for just a transfer. I presume it was in that case a long time. Sorry for your loss. |
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Posted: 11/21/2007 8:21:07 PM EDT
[#25]
ttt
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Posted: 11/26/2007 6:23:24 PM EDT
[#26]
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Posted: 11/26/2007 10:14:04 PM EDT
[#27]
Pure Genius
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Posted: 12/5/2007 8:01:57 AM EDT
[#28]
[thread hijack]
what is the smallest Pelican case an 16" M4 will fit into?, either assembled or upper/lower separated...??? ... I'm putting together my christmas list  [/thread hijack] edit for clarity |
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Posted: 12/5/2007 11:34:58 AM EDT
[#29]
 Thanks |
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Posted: 12/5/2007 2:22:28 PM EDT
[#30]
Case looks GREAT PaoloOrange.
I have my cutter all built and ready to go. I just have not had the courage yet to start on my case foam. I am a little scared to. |
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Posted: 12/5/2007 2:24:16 PM EDT
[#31]
Do you have the lengths? Here is a list of all their cases. Pelican cases |
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Posted: 12/7/2007 10:55:07 PM EDT
[#32]
awesome tutorial as I'm about to get my case in next 2-3 weeks.
question (dumb one, probably)... is the foam 1 piece, or multi-layer? From the instructions you pull out the foam and you basically cut out a hole thru it. But is there another layer of foam on the case wall that you don't pull out to cut?? Or do you cut out the piece you need, thus creating a hole. And then slice the cut-out to desired height and plug it back in? |
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Posted: 12/8/2007 2:57:11 AM EDT
[#33]
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if you get the case with the flat foam (not the convoluted, egg crate foam), there is one piece in the top, and two pieces in the bottom. |
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Posted: 12/8/2007 4:23:52 PM EDT
[#34]
To those of you who were proactive enough to build your own, what diameter wire did you use?
I have plenty of .032" SS safety wire I use for securing fasteners on racebikes. It is much thicker than the described "hair thin" wire that comes with the hot wire kits. Even if I were to use this, I presume I would need slightly more amperage through it to keep it properly heated. Can someone mic the wire that comes with your kits? I can order down to .005". Thanks Bryce |
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Posted: 12/12/2007 10:09:29 AM EDT
[#35]
Wow...I screwed up my foam cutting several months ago and was wanting to redo the foam. Then I came across this thread. Tagged for reference. |
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Posted: 12/13/2007 9:28:13 AM EDT
[#36]
I used the same safety wire but 0.4 mm. 0.032" looks a little too big, but I would try anyway. Good luck |
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Posted: 12/13/2007 9:35:09 AM EDT
[#37]
+
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Posted: 12/15/2007 9:05:16 AM EDT
[#38]
Y does this not have a sticky yet? One of the best ARFCOM posts ever!
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Posted: 12/15/2007 5:22:25 PM EDT
[#39]
Here's my attempt at a hot wire foam cutting table
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Posted: 12/15/2007 5:29:18 PM EDT
[#40]
Heres the bottom so it wil give an idea more or less at what I did.I tried to build on at first like mfinger but the wire's intensity would dull out.So I googled it and got a basic idea of what I needed.A transformer from Radio Shack 25 v and 2 a for 10.49 A single pole switch for 12.39 and an extension cord for 2.50.The trick is to mount a spirng on the bottom wire holder to tension the hot wire because it flexes when it gets hot and you don't want the spring getting heated or it will lose its tension.I was able to find a bracket were I could mount the wood piece for leverage and I installed a spacer in the lever were it pivots and also were the wire runs through so it won't burn the wood.
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Posted: 12/15/2007 5:31:49 PM EDT
[#41]
What happened to the tag button?
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Posted: 12/16/2007 5:20:01 AM EDT
[#42]
Very nice setup... Any chance on a step-by-step build tutorial? The metal rod on mine acts as a spring...the wire on mine never gets loose (It does break often though). I was going to hook up 120V, but I don't use it enough, so I stuck with my D battery setup. |
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Posted: 12/16/2007 6:55:21 AM EDT
[#43]
What kind of wire should I use?
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Posted: 12/16/2007 6:57:26 AM EDT
[#44]
I'm not sure but I think it was 32 it came on a spool from Michaels.
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Posted: 12/16/2007 7:04:08 AM EDT
[#45]
Sorry about the about mentioning the Stickman instead of Mfinger I guess after seeing so much much of each others work posted here so many times somebody bound to confuse one.Both of you guys take excellent pictures I wanted to mention where I got the idea from that is all.
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Posted: 12/16/2007 12:30:37 PM EDT
[#46]
What do you mean by 32? |
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Posted: 12/17/2007 9:18:53 PM EDT
[#47]
Friggin' beautiful. Simplicity, simplicity.
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Posted: 12/18/2007 3:21:44 PM EDT
[#48]
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Posted: 12/18/2007 7:08:45 PM EDT
[#49]
Sweet Thread! Hoping to get a Pelican case after the new year.
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Posted: 12/18/2007 7:48:28 PM EDT
[#50]
32 thousandths is .032 |
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but the wire's intensity would dull out.So I googled it and got a basic idea of what I needed.A transformer from Radio Shack 25 v and 2 a for 10.49 A single pole switch for 12.39 and an extension cord for 2.50.The trick is to mount a spirng on the bottom wire holder to tension the hot wire because it flexes when it gets hot and you don't want the spring getting heated or it will lose its tension.I was able to find a bracket were I could mount the wood piece for leverage and I installed a spacer in the lever were it pivots and also were the wire runs through so it won't burn the wood.