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Posted: 2/25/2015 9:20:40 PM EDT
[#1]
OK, this is a 100% hypothetical question. Do not mistake my asking it for my desire to actually TRY it.
What would happen if someone were to take a bit of black powder and put it in the tube before inserting the can for fire? Kaboom? I only ask because I was watching BP cannon videos and my mind wandered. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 10:24:47 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK, this is a 100% hypothetical question. Do not mistake my asking it for my desire to actually TRY it. What would happen if someone were to take a bit of black powder and put it in the tube before inserting the can for fire? Kaboom? I only ask because I was watching BP cannon videos and my mind wandered. The pressure created would shred the thin walled can to pieces, there is not enough pressure building up behind a 12oz can to blow up the aluminum tube... pressure is like electricity it will always take the path of least resistance if you were to take and press fit a chunk of aluminum in 1 of 2 things would happen A. get your "Kaboom" B. the bolt would be shot back into the receiver and the pressure would escape via the ejection port/destroyed receiver |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:27:49 PM EDT
[#3]
It may work in the longer tube but in the OEM launcher it would just blow up the can and stink to hell when you do. Anything more powerful than an M200 will blow up the cans.
They did a good job of safety testing the tube. |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 12:02:37 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It may work in the longer tube but in the OEM launcher it would just blow up the can and stink to hell when you do. Anything more powerful than an M200 will blow up the cans. They did a good job of safety testing the tube. And besides the stink, it'd be corrosive as all heck and make a big mess. I shoot black, but I'll never put it in an AR. I'd only dip into higher pressures via smokeless inside the blanks. If seeking longer range without popping cans, I'd try softening the blow to the can by using cardboard wadding when using more powerful blanks. I also think a powder that is ever so slightly slower in burn rate (than the blank powder in the M200) might get you farther in conjunction with a longer barrel. Just guessing on my part though. |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 12:08:12 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It may work in the longer tube but in the OEM launcher it would just blow up the can and stink to hell when you do. Anything more powerful than an M200 will blow up the cans. They did a good job of safety testing the tube. Have you tried them top-in vs top-out? |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 12:55:41 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The pressure created would shred the thin walled can to pieces, there is not enough pressure building up behind a 12oz can to blow up the aluminum tube... pressure is like electricity it will always take the path of least resistance if you were to take and press fit a chunk of aluminum in 1 of 2 things would happen A. get your "Kaboom" B. the bolt would be shot back into the receiver and the pressure would escape via the ejection port/destroyed receiver Bolt thrust says the bolt will be just fine where it is. Black powder would have a hard time generating enough pressure to compromise the barrel extension lugs or the bolt lugs. BP pressures are in the 10k-15k psi range. Smokeless 5.56 is in the 62,000 range on the high end. The shortest path out is through that tiny wall of aluminum. Either through the can or through the wall of the tube. |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 2:24:34 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Bolt thrust says the bolt will be just fine where it is. Black powder would have a hard time generating enough pressure to compromise the barrel extension lugs or the bolt lugs. BP pressures are in the 10k-15k psi range. Smokeless 5.56 is in the 62,000 range on the high end. The shortest path out is through that tiny wall of aluminum. Either through the can or through the wall of the tube. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The pressure created would shred the thin walled can to pieces, there is not enough pressure building up behind a 12oz can to blow up the aluminum tube... pressure is like electricity it will always take the path of least resistance if you were to take and press fit a chunk of aluminum in 1 of 2 things would happen A. get your "Kaboom" B. the bolt would be shot back into the receiver and the pressure would escape via the ejection port/destroyed receiver Bolt thrust says the bolt will be just fine where it is. Black powder would have a hard time generating enough pressure to compromise the barrel extension lugs or the bolt lugs. BP pressures are in the 10k-15k psi range. Smokeless 5.56 is in the 62,000 range on the high end. The shortest path out is through that tiny wall of aluminum. Either through the can or through the wall of the tube. The tube is almost a 1/4 in the pressure chamber area. Probably through the can... 
Anyway, the point is sort of moot. The loud report of mine vs pool_shark's bloop sound tells me that there is still fuel left when the can leaves the tube. |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 3:19:19 PM EDT
[#8]
Thought up a weird way to stabilize cans. Basically it works like a badminton birdie.
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Posted: 2/28/2015 6:54:38 PM EDT
[#9]
I suppose this is the de facto dedicated thread, so I will ask a can cannon related question here.
How would I set up a bold catch to engage every time the bolt is pulled to the rear? I feel like, by asking other places, that people would jump to the conclusion that I am trying something jankey with an open bolt gun. But the can cannon has no gas system, plus I will still have the SA trigger setup. The reason I ask here is because ended up cycling though a good 6-7 rounds unnecessarily with the can cannon on my halfback edition. I know training could be enough, But I also like the idea of an open bolt for loading the can. The air behind the can doesn't need to escape forward. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 7:07:16 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How would I set up a bold catch to engage every time the bolt is pulled to the rear? Drill hole here, remove spring and buffer from normal location and install them in the new hole. 
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Posted: 2/28/2015 8:24:00 PM EDT
[#11]
If you use the same tube I used a 2-3/4" (70mm) hole saw works perfectly for making wads... higher pressure blanks should be here by next weekend
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Posted: 2/28/2015 9:28:04 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you use the same tube I used a 2-3/4" (70mm) hole saw works perfectly for making wads... higher pressure blanks should be here by next weekend
http://i.imgur.com/ILSlrXY.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/vE0DDbC.jpg?2 I was thinking of doing something similar with great stuff foam, and then cutting them into discs with my chop saw. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 11:06:24 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I suppose this is the de facto dedicated thread, so I will ask a can cannon related question here. How would I set up a bold catch to engage every time the bolt is pulled to the rear? I feel like, by asking other places, that people would jump to the conclusion that I am trying something jankey with an open bolt gun. But the can cannon has no gas system, plus I will still have the SA trigger setup. The reason I ask here is because ended up cycling though a good 6-7 rounds unnecessarily with the can cannon on my halfback edition. I know training could be enough, But I also like the idea of an open bolt for loading the can. The air behind the can doesn't need to escape forward. Modify the mag to ride up higher? |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 11:09:36 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Modify the mag to ride up higher? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I suppose this is the de facto dedicated thread, so I will ask a can cannon related question here. How would I set up a bold catch to engage every time the bolt is pulled to the rear? I feel like, by asking other places, that people would jump to the conclusion that I am trying something jankey with an open bolt gun. But the can cannon has no gas system, plus I will still have the SA trigger setup. The reason I ask here is because ended up cycling though a good 6-7 rounds unnecessarily with the can cannon on my halfback edition. I know training could be enough, But I also like the idea of an open bolt for loading the can. The air behind the can doesn't need to escape forward. Modify the mag to ride up higher? Wouldn't do anything but cause feeding issues. Like I posted above, you just need to move the spring for the bolt catch so that it pushes the bolt catch up instead of down. |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 1:31:05 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you use the same tube I used a 2-3/4" (70mm) hole saw works perfectly for making wads... higher pressure blanks should be here by next weekend
http://i.imgur.com/ILSlrXY.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/vE0DDbC.jpg?2 Mwuuahahahahaaa! This could get interesting......
I'll be anxiously awaiting your results. 
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Posted: 3/1/2015 5:09:54 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thought up a weird way to stabilize cans. Basically it works like a badminton birdie. http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i172/schkoot/Shasta%20Blasta/F2E53DD7-F205-436F-BCA1-EF4FEF360F8D_zpsqcfcb1ek.jpg On the little can, try using the "can opener around the rim" trick. Might also provide you a decent gas seal. Plus, you could experiment with a streamer type stabilizer like someone else suggested. Possibly with a magnet on the tail to ensure correct deployment. ETA: took another look at your diagram, same thing, but reverse the cans so the little can (payload) is mouth to muzzle and the big can (stabilizer) is same. It'll be easier to open with a can opener that way. Also, the concave can base should handle the pressure better than the can mouth. ETA2: I wonder if you tried with the long can as the stabilizer, mouth to breech, opened up so it extends over the barrel extension. Like this... 
ETA3: Maybe add an aerodynamic cover to the above pic like they do with HEAT rounds? And fill in the can junction with foam, at least on the outside. |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 5:12:03 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you use the same tube I used a 2-3/4" (70mm) hole saw works perfectly for making wads... higher pressure blanks should be here by next weekend
http://i.imgur.com/ILSlrXY.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/vE0DDbC.jpg?2 Try running the hole saw backwards with soft stuff like corrugated cardboard. You'll get cleaner cuts. ETA: I figured that out with a soda can solar heater experiment. |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 3:16:48 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
On the little can, try using the "can opener around the rim" trick. Might also provide you a decent gas seal. Plus, you could experiment with a streamer type stabilizer like someone else suggested. Possibly with a magnet on the tail to ensure correct deployment. ETA: took another look at your diagram, same thing, but reverse the cans so the little can (payload) is mouth to muzzle and the big can (stabilizer) is same. It'll be easier to open with a can opener that way. Also, the concave can base should handle the pressure better than the can mouth. ETA2: I wonder if you tried with the long can as the stabilizer, mouth to breech, opened up so it extends over the barrel extension. Like this... http://i.imgur.com/cLUdtXn.jpg ETA3: Maybe add an aerodynamic cover to the above pic like they do with HEAT rounds? And fill in the can junction with foam, at least on the outside. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Thought up a weird way to stabilize cans. Basically it works like a badminton birdie. http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i172/schkoot/Shasta%20Blasta/F2E53DD7-F205-436F-BCA1-EF4FEF360F8D_zpsqcfcb1ek.jpg On the little can, try using the "can opener around the rim" trick. Might also provide you a decent gas seal. Plus, you could experiment with a streamer type stabilizer like someone else suggested. Possibly with a magnet on the tail to ensure correct deployment. ETA: took another look at your diagram, same thing, but reverse the cans so the little can (payload) is mouth to muzzle and the big can (stabilizer) is same. It'll be easier to open with a can opener that way. Also, the concave can base should handle the pressure better than the can mouth. ETA2: I wonder if you tried with the long can as the stabilizer, mouth to breech, opened up so it extends over the barrel extension. Like this... http://i.imgur.com/cLUdtXn.jpg ETA3: Maybe add an aerodynamic cover to the above pic like they do with HEAT rounds? And fill in the can junction with foam, at least on the outside. That would work, except that in the last 5" or so of the X products can, it tapers down to below soda can diameter. |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 3:34:53 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That would work, except that in the last 5" or so of the X products can, it tapers down to below soda can diameter. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thought up a weird way to stabilize cans. Basically it works like a badminton birdie. http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i172/schkoot/Shasta%20Blasta/F2E53DD7-F205-436F-BCA1-EF4FEF360F8D_zpsqcfcb1ek.jpg On the little can, try using the "can opener around the rim" trick. Might also provide you a decent gas seal. Plus, you could experiment with a streamer type stabilizer like someone else suggested. Possibly with a magnet on the tail to ensure correct deployment. ETA: took another look at your diagram, same thing, but reverse the cans so the little can (payload) is mouth to muzzle and the big can (stabilizer) is same. It'll be easier to open with a can opener that way. Also, the concave can base should handle the pressure better than the can mouth. ETA2: I wonder if you tried with the long can as the stabilizer, mouth to breech, opened up so it extends over the barrel extension. Like this... http://i.imgur.com/cLUdtXn.jpg ETA3: Maybe add an aerodynamic cover to the above pic like they do with HEAT rounds? And fill in the can junction with foam, at least on the outside. That would work, except that in the last 5" or so of the X products can, it tapers down to below soda can diameter. Would there be any value in slitting the stabilizer can up the side with a razor blade just far enough so it would fit as pictured? |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 4:41:58 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Would there be any value in slitting the stabilizer can up the side with a razor blade just far enough so it would fit as pictured? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thought up a weird way to stabilize cans. Basically it works like a badminton birdie. http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i172/schkoot/Shasta%20Blasta/F2E53DD7-F205-436F-BCA1-EF4FEF360F8D_zpsqcfcb1ek.jpg On the little can, try using the "can opener around the rim" trick. Might also provide you a decent gas seal. Plus, you could experiment with a streamer type stabilizer like someone else suggested. Possibly with a magnet on the tail to ensure correct deployment. ETA: took another look at your diagram, same thing, but reverse the cans so the little can (payload) is mouth to muzzle and the big can (stabilizer) is same. It'll be easier to open with a can opener that way. Also, the concave can base should handle the pressure better than the can mouth. ETA2: I wonder if you tried with the long can as the stabilizer, mouth to breech, opened up so it extends over the barrel extension. Like this... http://i.imgur.com/cLUdtXn.jpg ETA3: Maybe add an aerodynamic cover to the above pic like they do with HEAT rounds? And fill in the can junction with foam, at least on the outside. That would work, except that in the last 5" or so of the X products can, it tapers down to below soda can diameter. Would there be any value in slitting the stabilizer can up the side with a razor blade just far enough so it would fit as pictured? Yeah, I think that would work. Unless you bent a pitch into them to induce a spiral, I'm not sure it would matter though. It's sort of strange to me how the cans will come out of the tube completely stationary outside of their ballistic path. If you shot a Dr. Pepper and you saw the logo as it left, you could read it all the way to the top of its arc where it starts to move around a bit. That's what I have noticed anyway. Other people here can chime in and either confirm or correct me. |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 11:17:38 PM EDT
[#21]
Mine do the same thing.
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Posted: 3/1/2015 11:35:41 PM EDT
[#22]
The problem with the can stabilization ideas is the pressure doesn't just go forward. It tries to expand in all directions, and likely would end up locking the empty can to the barrel during the pressure spike.
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Posted: 3/1/2015 11:50:43 PM EDT
[#23]
This maybe getting a little out of hand
New VFG should be here this week also 
ETA: you can maintain a cheek weld with this sight setup if you use your left eye... also only at about $300 so still under budget
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Posted: 3/1/2015 11:59:20 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The problem with the can stabilization ideas is the pressure doesn't just go forward. It tries to expand in all directions, and likely would end up locking the empty can to the barrel during the pressure spike. That's why I have mine pointed backwards. |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 12:01:41 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This maybe getting a little out of hand
http://i.imgur.com/qr3jL07.jpg?1 New VFG should be here this week also http://i.imgur.com/WRD9A32.png ETA: you can maintain a cheek weld with this sight setup if you use your left eye... also only at about $300 so still under budget
LULZ... That's awesome. |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 12:04:27 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's why I have mine pointed backwards. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The problem with the can stabilization ideas is the pressure doesn't just go forward. It tries to expand in all directions, and likely would end up locking the empty can to the barrel during the pressure spike. That's why I have mine pointed backwards. Smart.
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Posted: 3/2/2015 12:31:13 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The problem with the can stabilization ideas is the pressure doesn't just go forward. It tries to expand in all directions, and likely would end up locking the empty can to the barrel during the pressure spike. You're braver than me. I'd treat that the same way I do a flare launcher and keep my hands back at the magwell. |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 1:38:19 AM EDT
[#28]
EDIT: Nevermind...
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Posted: 3/4/2015 6:46:33 AM EDT
[#29]
If you look down the tube do you see the barrel?
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Posted: 3/4/2015 2:14:13 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you look down the tube do you see the barrel? Yes, you can see the plugged end. |
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Posted: 3/4/2015 2:45:15 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, you can see the plugged end. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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If you look down the tube do you see the barrel? Yes, you can see the plugged end. So, basic design is a short barrel cut, plugged, and ported with a tube welded to a barrel nut? |
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Posted: 3/4/2015 3:26:34 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, basic design is a short barrel cut, plugged, and ported with a tube welded to a barrel nut? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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If you look down the tube do you see the barrel? Yes, you can see the plugged end. So, basic design is a short barrel cut, plugged, and ported with a tube welded to a barrel nut? That pretty much sums it up. The tube looks to be pinned to what appears to be a 1" thick base/nut. There is also a dramatic taper to thicken the walls of the pressure chamber area, and to prevent the can from getting too deep. |
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Posted: 3/4/2015 4:48:28 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, basic design is a short barrel cut, plugged, and ported with a tube welded to a barrel nut? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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If you look down the tube do you see the barrel? Yes, you can see the plugged end. So, basic design is a short barrel cut, plugged, and ported with a tube welded to a barrel nut? you just described how I built mine (page 17)
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Posted: 3/5/2015 11:10:37 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you just described how I built mine (page 17)
Quote HistoryQuoted:
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If you look down the tube do you see the barrel? Yes, you can see the plugged end. So, basic design is a short barrel cut, plugged, and ported with a tube welded to a barrel nut? you just described how I built mine (page 17)
What tubing did you use? I think you said 2-3/4" aluminum, what schedule pipe? |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 1:09:56 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What tubing did you use? I think you said 2-3/4" aluminum, what schedule pipe? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
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If you look down the tube do you see the barrel? Yes, you can see the plugged end. So, basic design is a short barrel cut, plugged, and ported with a tube welded to a barrel nut? you just described how I built mine (page 17)
What tubing did you use? I think you said 2-3/4" aluminum, what schedule pipe? https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7140&step=4&showunits=inches&id=71&top_cat=0 My entire build and material list is a little over halfway down page 17 of this thread.. I have no idea what the tube would convert to in schedule size |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 5:58:21 PM EDT
[#36]
On the actual x can cannon, does the barrel nut unscrew from the tube?
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:32:16 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
On the actual x can cannon, does the barrel nut unscrew from the tube? Maybe. There is a roll pin that keeps them together. After that I'm not sure. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 7:24:39 PM EDT
[#38]
Still telling myself I don't want one.
Probably be another safe occupant. Grand Kids would like it. $-CHA-CHING-$ |
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Posted: 3/6/2015 1:34:43 AM EDT
[#39]
X Products has M200 for sale on their website now. Looks like it's ~$0.45 a round. That's a little steep for me, but I like the idea of ordering them in intervals of 100.
LINK |
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Posted: 3/6/2015 7:32:48 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
X Products has M200 for sale on their website now. Looks like it's ~$0.45 a round. That's a little steep for me, but I like the idea of ordering them in intervals of 100. LINK That' a bit high. I get mine here. http://www.atlanticwallblanks.com/PRVI-556-M200A1-BLANK_p_183.html http://www.atlanticwallblanks.com/PRVI-556-M200-BLANK_p_177.html http://www.atlanticwallblanks.com/556-M200-DUPLICATE_p_247.html |
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Posted: 3/7/2015 3:37:59 AM EDT
[#41]
Edit* decided to just prep and paint it
ETA* Painting fail, took it to get Cerakoted
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Posted: 3/7/2015 5:30:48 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryLOL... that thing is so awesome. How does the sight picture look with the quadrant and the conventionally placed stock? When I was a grenadier, I hated the quadrant and preferred the leaf sight for my 203. I was able to give up having to carry the SAW as a boot because I had the highest hit percentage of any of the Marines in the Platoon. As soon as I got into country, I kinda started missing the SAW.
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Posted: 3/7/2015 5:50:34 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LOL... that thing is so awesome. How does the sight picture look with the quadrant and the conventionally placed stock? When I was a grenadier, I hated the quadrant and preferred the leaf sight for my 203. I was able to give up having to carry the SAW as a boot because I had the highest hit percentage of any of the Marines in the Platoon. As soon as I got into country, I kinda started missing the SAW. Quote HistoryQuoted:
LOL... that thing is so awesome. How does the sight picture look with the quadrant and the conventionally placed stock? When I was a grenadier, I hated the quadrant and preferred the leaf sight for my 203. I was able to give up having to carry the SAW as a boot because I had the highest hit percentage of any of the Marines in the Platoon. As soon as I got into country, I kinda started missing the SAW. I can keep a full cheek weld if i use my left eye to aim.. haven't been to the range since my last video but hoping to go on Sunday and set up a 12oz range card as well as testing some higher pressure blanks
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Posted: 3/7/2015 8:18:48 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can keep a full cheek weld if i use my left eye to aim.. haven't been to the range since my last video but hoping to go on Sunday and set up a 12oz range card as well as testing some higher pressure blanks Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
LOL... that thing is so awesome. How does the sight picture look with the quadrant and the conventionally placed stock? When I was a grenadier, I hated the quadrant and preferred the leaf sight for my 203. I was able to give up having to carry the SAW as a boot because I had the highest hit percentage of any of the Marines in the Platoon. As soon as I got into country, I kinda started missing the SAW. I can keep a full cheek weld if i use my left eye to aim.. haven't been to the range since my last video but hoping to go on Sunday and set up a 12oz range card as well as testing some higher pressure blanks Cool. When I finally get some free time I am going to modify my sight. I think I might put an M203 leaf where the plastic one is, and run a new removable "through-bolt" for it to rotate on. I will probably find a spring similar to the one that keeps the ejection port open to keep this leaf site up, and then make a way to clip it shut. I am not the best at explaining stuff, but I can take OK pictures, so when I am done, I will make a DIY thread. |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 12:02:49 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
X Products has M200 for sale on their website now. Looks like it's ~$0.45 a round. That's a little steep for me, but I like the idea of ordering them in intervals of 100. LINK That's nice and all...but they still don't have the cannon in stock, and the 6-8 week lead time hasn't changed. It would be good to get an updated ETA. I would rather order one when they're in stock.
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Posted: 3/8/2015 12:32:31 PM EDT
[#46]
DSG has them on their site. I already have one so I didn't check to see if they were in stock though,
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Posted: 3/8/2015 8:13:41 PM EDT
[#47]
Guys, I have an update!!! Here is a rough solid of the new grappling hook
Here's some answers to possible questions: Not the finished product but close to what the production grappling hook should look like for the Can Cannon. Here's some details, made entirely from billet aluminum. Smallest wall thickness is .25", Weight (estimated through solid works) 12 oz, arms are spring loaded with pressure activated cam locking system, 4 Hooks, total surface expansion with extended hooks 11". It will fit beneath the surface of the tube. Trajectory, with M200 blanks: 100 yards without a rope, 40 yard horizontal, and 25 yards vertical with rope attached. We will have more information once we test higher pressure loads and get final results. |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 10:29:20 PM EDT
[#48]
This may be more of an inspiring solid image:
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Posted: 3/9/2015 1:06:24 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This may be more of an inspiring solid image: http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e192/shadyirishmen/Grappling%20Hook_zpsg8o0n0zw.png That is awesome! when are we going to get some test footage 
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Posted: 3/9/2015 7:08:10 PM EDT
[#50]
Think I may try to cast a few of these out of aluminum
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