It has been a while since I have researched the proper specifications for the cocking piece gap, but your original gap seems correct to my fuzzy memory.
As long as you are able to cam the bolt carrier open, and there is a gap between the cocking piece and the fully closed bolt carrier, so that you know that the cocking piece is not preventing the bolt carrier from going fully into battery, then there is no major concern.
If you decide that you want to close the cocking piece gap to your original measurements, there are several valid options. It might be possible to install your new cocking piece lever into your old cocking piece body to restore the original gap. ( I'm not sure whether or not the cocking piece body design changed between the old style, and the new style.)
An HK smith could break the cocking tube insert loose, press it in further, and resecure it at the proper gap. (PITA)
A shim can be brazed or soldered to the rear end of the cocking tube insert.(least professional of these options, as the shim would be the wear surface, and also subject to side loading during the cam phase.)
A shim can be brazed, welded, or soldered to the rear end of the cocking piece body.
ETA: found some good information
here . According to that source, if the bolt gap is within specifications, cocking tube gap should be bolt gap plus 0.015", with a maximum of 0.0785". Any larger than 0.0785" and cocking difficulty arises. So, you are good to go.