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Posted: 10/31/2007 6:54:17 PM EDT
from this thread


i went out and bought the parts can someone tell me how to change them myself? or do i need to get them installed by someone else? if you have any pics that would help.


thanks
shawn
Link Posted: 10/31/2007 9:07:10 PM EDT
[#1]
Hey man, I've heard a lot of people say they did that swap themselves, so maybe you could google it or check hkpro.com too.

Shouldn't be hard, post pics if you can get an answer, I'm sure others would love a visual reference!

Link Posted: 11/1/2007 12:28:24 AM EDT
[#2]
To remove or install the ejector, first make sure the hammer is in the forward (fired) position, remove the trigger pack from the trigger group housing. Then, locate the axis pin the ejector rotates on. Push it out from the inside of the trigger pack to the outside, lift ejector up and out of the housing(be careful not to loose the spring). Installation is the reverse.

To remove the extractor spring, get a punch with a very small diameter, that just fits inside the loop of the extractor spring. Push the pin punch into the loop and twist the punch either clockwise or counter clockwise to the bolt head and the extractor spring will rotate around and completely loose all tension. Then, pull it out from the front. A lot of people never have removed the extractor spring and would be very suprised to find out how much gunk builds up down there.

To replace the spring, slide the spring in with your fingers till it doesn't go in anymore and then roll the front of the bolt head against a hard surface. The bolt head is rolling in an end upward manuver so that at some point, you are pushing against the very front of the extractor spring and causing it to be shoved backwards and into the extractor. It will eventually snap back into place









Link Posted: 11/1/2007 4:50:52 AM EDT
[#3]
As for the ejector lever, I replaced mine a few days ago.  I started by slowly cycling the bolt and observing thru the ejection port to note how much clearance the old lever had with the bolthead.  As the bolt head moves rearward, it depresses the rear part of the ejector lever, this cams the front of the lever up into the slot on the bolt head which brings it into the path of the spent cartridge's rear rim, thus ejecting the spent cartridge thru the port.  After taking note of the clearance allowed, I removed the grip, removed the old ejector lever from the trigger pack, aligned it with the new HK part and marked the new ejector lever.  When you align the ejector levers to mark the new one for cutting, make sure to stack them with the old lever "over" the new lever.  When you mark the new lever, it will be "long" and leave you room for fitting/finishing. I used a Dremel to cut the ejector to size, then assembled the gun and observed the clearance with the bolt.  It was a little long still, so out came the file.  I took a little more off the lever, assembled and checked the fit again, it was perfect.  I was told that you remove metal from the front part of the ejector-the part that contacts the cartridge, not the rear part.  I'm not sure if I did this correctly, but it seemed to be the logical way to do it.  I took it out yesterday and it ran 100%.  Hope this helps-ARKAR

Edited to add: I also cold-blued the area that I cut to observe the wear pattern.  If you don't know how to remove the ejector lever-click here!
Link Posted: 11/1/2007 7:35:17 AM EDT
[#4]
Great information. Thanks guys.

This needs a tack!

Link Posted: 11/1/2007 2:00:57 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
To remove or install the ejector, first make sure the hammer is in the forward (fired) position, remove the trigger pack from the trigger group housing. Then, locate the axis pin the ejector rotates on. Push it out from the inside of the trigger pack to the outside, lift ejector up and out of the housing(be careful not to loose the spring). Installation is the reverse.

To remove the extractor spring, get a punch with a very small diameter, that just fits inside the loop of the extractor spring. Push the pin punch into the loop and twist the punch either clockwise or counter clockwise to the bolt head and the extractor spring will rotate around and completely loose all tension. Then, pull it out from the front. A lot of people never have removed the extractor spring and would be very suprised to find out how much gunk builds up down there.

To replace the spring, slide the spring in with your fingers till it doesn't go in anymore and then roll the front of the bolt head against a hard surface. The bolt head is rolling in an end upward manuver so that at some point, you are pushing against the very front of the extractor spring and causing it to be shoved backwards and into the extractor. It will eventually snap back into place

164.58.173.38/hot51/hot51.com/extractor1.JPG
164.58.173.38/hot51/hot51.com/extractor2.JPG
164.58.173.38/hot51/hot51.com/extractor3.JPG
164.58.173.38/hot51/hot51.com/extractor4.JPG
164.58.173.38/hot51/hot51.com/extractor5.JPG
164.58.173.38/hot51/hot51.com/extractor6.JPG
164.58.173.38/hot51/hot51.com/extractor7.JPG




thats exactly what i'm looking for. thanks


do you know how i change the ejecter?
Link Posted: 11/1/2007 8:49:58 PM EDT
[#6]


Quoted:
To remove or install the ejector, first make sure the hammer is in the forward (fired) position, remove the trigger pack from the trigger group housing. Then, locate the axis pin the ejector rotates on. Push it out from the inside of the trigger pack to the outside, lift ejector up and out of the housing(be careful not to loose the spring). Installation is the reverse.



Quoted:
do you know how i change the ejecter?



Dude, *read* Osprey's first paragraph.
Link Posted: 11/2/2007 4:50:56 AM EDT
[#7]
shawn,
please give us a range report after you change out the parts
and let us know if the problem has been solved.

What ammo are you using? I've had great results with Sellier and Bellot
and also Fiocchi 115 grain FMJ.

Link Posted: 11/2/2007 8:15:45 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:

Quoted:
To remove or install the ejector, first make sure the hammer is in the forward (fired) position, remove the trigger pack from the trigger group housing. Then, locate the axis pin the ejector rotates on. Push it out from the inside of the trigger pack to the outside, lift ejector up and out of the housing(be careful not to loose the spring). Installation is the reverse.



Quoted:
do you know how i change the ejecter?



Dude, *read* Osprey's first paragraph.






i guess reading is fundamental
Link Posted: 11/2/2007 8:16:40 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
shawn,
please give us a range report after you change out the parts
and let us know if the problem has been solved.

What ammo are you using? I've had great results with Sellier and Bellot
and also Fiocchi 115 grain FMJ.



i've been using american eagle and i should be able to give a report soon.

thanks
Link Posted: 11/5/2007 8:40:27 AM EDT
[#10]
Bumped for a range report from shawn


Link Posted: 11/5/2007 9:02:04 AM EDT
[#11]
On a side note and related to my previous posting above, when I was gathering parts to have I.G.F. build my SW5, I used a JLD trigger box in an S.U.O.(S.E.F.) grip frame.  When Jayson built my gun, he had to trim the ejector lever(possibly due to the JLD box-maybe the lever rides slightly higher).  This is the reason that I suggested trimming the lever.  He told me when I replaced my lever to remove metal from the front part of the lever, the part that contacts the casing to eject it.  I installed the lever, and cycled the action, watching it thru the port and magazine well opening and noticed that it was making contact in both areas at the same time-causing a VERY slight drag.  I mean when moving the bolt rearward, at the point it was making contact with the carrier at the rear to cam it up into the slot to contact the spent casing, it was rising up too high and was contacting the bolt itself in the slot at the front.  I figured over time this would put stress on the trigger box where the pin holds the lever in place, so that's when I trimmed it.  I used the lever Jayson had trimmed to mark mine and trimmed it long, then installed it to check it.  It was still barely too long so I filed it to fit and cold-blued the bare area so I could check it for wear later.  It runs 100%.  Hope this helps!
Link Posted: 11/15/2007 5:32:20 PM EDT
[#12]
thanks for the diagram


i'm trying to remove the extractor but i dont' understand how to push out the axis pin while its in the trigger housing do i have to pull out all the machanics out of the plastic trigger houseing?

thanks
shawn
Link Posted: 11/15/2007 6:06:32 PM EDT
[#13]
Does the plastic lower on your gun have a safety selector lever on both sides or only the left side?
Link Posted: 11/16/2007 1:36:10 AM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
Does the plastic lower on your gun have a safety selector lever on both sides or only the left side?



both


thanks
Link Posted: 11/16/2007 2:50:21 AM EDT
[#15]
Here's instructions on how to remove both selector levers: Lever removal.  I have never seen one of the Coharie lowers like the one on your rifle, but I assume that they are set up like the original HK, so those instructions should work.  After you remove the selectors, simply pull up on the ejector lever at the front to lift the trigger pack out of the lower.  ARKAR
Link Posted: 11/16/2007 7:55:47 AM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:
Here's instructions on how to remove both selector levers: Lever removal.  I have never seen one of the Coharie lowers like the one on your rifle, but I assume that they are set up like the original HK, so those instructions should work.  After you remove the selectors, simply pull up on the ejector lever at the front to lift the trigger pack out of the lower.  ARKAR


Thanks ARKAR for the link. There is some great info in PDF format at that site.



Hoping shawnofhtedead will update us with a new range report after the parts have been replaced.

Link Posted: 11/16/2007 4:20:28 PM EDT
[#17]

Quoted:
Bumped for a range report from shawn




ok i've changed out the ejector and ejector spring, bought new Hk mags and took it out to the range today (i still need to change the extractor but can it have that much effect on it?)


so now rather than jamming every 6-10 rounds it now jams every 3 rounds


wiskey tango foxtrot

anyone know any good hk armors that i can send this thing to so it can possibly be fixed?


at this point i am sitting on an 1200 dollar paper weight


thanks


ETA:  i put 4 30 round mags through the gun today and had it jam up every 3-4 rounds. FTE and casings stuck in the upper portion of the bolt
Link Posted: 11/16/2007 4:49:27 PM EDT
[#18]
What kind of ammo?  Not that it should really matter.....
Link Posted: 11/16/2007 4:57:04 PM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
What kind of ammo?  Not that it should really matter.....



UMC mega pack
Link Posted: 11/16/2007 5:13:33 PM EDT
[#20]
This kind of BS is exactly why I just bought a Colt 6450 9mm over the Coharie. I really wanted an mp5 clone, but I couldn't drop that kind of coin for something that didn't run 100%. I'll have to get my mp5 fix with the local rental HK.
Link Posted: 11/16/2007 6:29:18 PM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:

Quoted:
What kind of ammo?  Not that it should really matter.....



UMC mega pack


Get rid of the UMC/Remington crap it is very weak.  You really need some S&B, Fiocchi or even Wolf.  I have a late run cast recv SW5 and it's runs 100% with the above ammo but it will not run the UMC/Remmy crap loads.

Does you lower have vertical play in it in relation to the recv?

Also, you need to change out the extractor, what is happening is that the bolt is losing control of the empty case before the ejector can kick it out of the gun, so either the extractor is bad, the extractor spring is weak, the lower is sitting to low on the gun or the ammo is so underpowered that the bolt is short stroking.

You might also look at replacing the recoil spring/rod if it is the type with the allen bolts in the ends.

If your anywhere near MI, I'd be happy to help you get it working or I'll buy it cheap<GR>.

Jeff

Link Posted: 11/16/2007 8:05:54 PM EDT
[#22]
Change out the extractor, clean your fluted chamber EXTREMELY well, and buy some Fiocchi or S&B ammo.

Do ALL of these three things before you send it to someone.
Link Posted: 11/16/2007 10:28:07 PM EDT
[#23]
SEND IT TO Jayson I AM STILL WATEING ON MINE ,MINE DID THE SAME CRAP YOUR DID
SEND OUT AND GET IT WORKED ON
Link Posted: 11/17/2007 9:04:14 AM EDT
[#24]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
What kind of ammo?  Not that it should really matter.....



UMC mega pack


Get rid of the UMC/Remington crap it is very weak.  You really need some S&B, Fiocchi or even Wolf.  I have a late run cast recv SW5 and it's runs 100% with the above ammo but it will not run the UMC/Remmy crap loads.

Does you lower have vertical play in it in relation to the recv?

Also, you need to change out the extractor, what is happening is that the bolt is losing control of the empty case before the ejector can kick it out of the gun, so either the extractor is bad, the extractor spring is weak, the lower is sitting to low on the gun or the ammo is so underpowered that the bolt is short stroking.

You might also look at replacing the recoil spring/rod if it is the type with the allen bolts in the ends.

If your anywhere near MI, I'd be happy to help you get it working or I'll buy it cheap<GR>.

Jeff




thanks for the info. yeah i'm going to change it out and try to get to the range in the next few weeks. i'll try changing out the ammo. i have also used american eagle in it and had the same problems. is american eagle underpowered also?


....no the lower has no play to the upper. its actually a really tight fit.

thanks
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