Just wondering if any of you guys would happen to have a copy of the manual/instructions for the Razorback. I aquired one the other day and have been looking it over. Stupidly went to the range session with only one type of ammo (cci blazer). I was getting light strikes period. The rounds visually looked like they were getting good hits. Thought we'd function test in semi but out of 25rds only one went bang. Everything mechanically functioned fine except for going bang. This is the X1 version upper.

SP-1 RRL, Carbine buffer tube with the carbine spacer and buffer. Geiselle SSF trigger. Thought it may have been trigger but the SSF has a full power hammer spring AND the lower/trigger runs great with my CMMG 4.5 upper with various types of ammo.

Communicated with original owner and he said to put a quarter behind the spacer as some people had issues with the bolt not going into full battery.


Thanks for any assistance.

Interesting - I bought an X1 Razorback from Eric face to face at his last Knob Creek (as a vendor), along with a bunch of accessories, and never got a manual of any kind.

The closest I ever found was an assembly drawing:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1oco8vx34d5tmj7/Razorback%20Layout.pdf?dl=0

It's not what you're looking for, but I hope you find it useful.

If you ever find (or make) an electronic version of the Razorback manual, I'd love to get a hold of a copy.

-bob

The system calls for a lighter hammer spring. Mine did not come with one so I wonder if that's my problem. I took everything apart and cleaned and measured. It all looks to be in good order. I wonder why a lighter spring is needed vs a normal power spring. Goes against everything I know about .22 triggers being to light to set iff a round. My Timney 3.5# and my CMC triggers don't work with my cmmg upper. Hmmm...can anyone explain physics behind the lighter spring for the razorback?

Does anyone have a spare they'd be willing to part with? If not I suppose i can order the JP yellow spring.

There is a delicate balance in a belt fed upper.  Using a lighter spring causes less energy consumed in cocking the hammer and more available for pulling the belt.  But the side effect could be light strikes.

I have a manual that came with my Razorback  upper. Will see what I can do on Monday with the manual. I run a 6.5" and 16.50" barrel. I converted my bolt so that it would run on my RR lower.  Have 4 different weight buffers that I have used as well as different weight charging handles!

I got to thinking about it today and it makes perfect sense. Weaker spring so bolt has more energy to cycle. I am going to diagnose one problem at a time. First will be getting the rounds to go off. Will try the quarter trick sometime this weekend. Spoke with the seller and he confirmed lakeside cut some of the carbine spacers just a tad too short. Once I get the thing to fire then I will worry about the hammer spring. Seller said he don't have one and never used it. If anything I'll order some JP springs.



Would appreciate anything you can do. Just IM me for an email address. If anything else having a copy would be sweet in itself. I've looked at pictures of all the ones one google and yes I see some of you have 4-5 buffers to tune with. Sadly I only have the one that came with it. Wish there was a source or someone with spares. Again thanks for looking.

Will report back probably sunday evening if I get time to go shoot. Like I told the person I bought this from; I knew what I was getting into with a .22 upper. I'll keep trying and keep asking till she purrs.

I have an old school/gen 1 LM-7 that I use with a Colt factory MG lower and I use the 4 o'clock hammer spring.  It took a few hundred rounds to get the thing running right, but it's been running very reliably for a very long time.  CCI Blazer 40gr solid is on the short list of ammo that works great in my LM-7.  The other is CCI Mini-mag 40gr solids.

You have to keep the thing fairly clean, but I can get 6-800 rounds through mine until it starts getting malfunctions.  It never, or hardly ever, jams.  It does stop from time to time - requiring only to be recharged to start running again.  In a typical range session, I shoot 6-8 belts and 4-5 of these have zero stoppages.  Seasoning/breaking in your cloth belts is a requirement.

Ok here is my range report for today. Booooo!!!! The maximum number of rounds to fire in semi or FA continuously was TWO

Problem #1 is the light primer strikes. I cleaned and lubed the crap out of the parts. Still getting light primer strikes. I tried shimming the rear of the buffer tube with a quarter; hell I even tried .75 cents worth and still no go. The CCI mini mag round nose and CCI blazer's stripped and chambered fine. Remington GB's and CCI mini mag hollow points had a hard time stripping from the belt. But regardless of which round was chambered, I was still getting light strikes. The Geiselle SSF doesn't feel like it's striking the rear hard enough when looking at the hammer drop from the side. The firing pin is clean and when manual pushed protrudes very well out of the hole. 1: the trigger is not doing it's job or 2: the guide slots that the rounds slide through are out of spec and not holding the ammo firmly to get a good strike. Note though this SSF trigger works perfectly with my CMMG .22 dedicated upper. I will install the mil-spec m-16 trigger for the next outing to isolate one more variable. I will also put his upper on a semi auto upper to see if it fires with that as well. Try to eliminate possible problems.

I then ran into what I think is problem #2. Extraction/Ejection. Spent round (or any round) will not fall down out of the bolt UNLESS there is another round behind and pushed down by the silver lever. Is this suppose to do this or is mine not working properly? I can load a single round and cycle but the round will not eject/fall down. I had to use a screwdriver to push it down/out. Is the silver lever that goes up and down suppose to push the spent round down or is a follow up round needed to push the "spent" round out? ( I don't think it's suppose to need another round).

My .22LR luck has ran out. I picked up a Lage m11/22 kit used from a dealer friend of mine because it wouldn't run worth a crap on his m-11. Picked it up from him and slapped it onto my lower, tossed in some rounds and it ran like a champ. Haven't looked back since. Only problems that has is incorrect loading of the BD mags. Then after I got my m-16, I researched the 4.5" uppers for it and most said that some tuning would be required with the trip etc to get it to run right; Slapped on the upper and it ran through a few K's worth of Federal blue bulk with out me tweaking anything. Guess it's time to pay my dues with this Razorback.

Anyhow I will report back once again when I get the chance to go out with the mil-spec trigger and semi lower. I work 7 days a week and have little time to go shoot. In the mean time could any of you verify the ejection problem I'm having. It should eject w/o the need for a follow up round IMO, right? I fear my little silver lever may be out of spec and if I can't figure out the light primer strikes, the bolt may be crap as well.

That's normal.

That kind of sucks. IF I get it to run a belt, I'll have to lift the cover to push the last spent shell out? When I actually got a round to go off (loading one round at a time without a follow up round) after the bolt went back, it would go forward and for the most part the spent casing would crush itself and jam against the barrel chamber. If that's normal I can live with it. Thanks for the input.

On a side note here's a question I should've asked at the beginning. Has anyone used the Razorback in conjunction with the Geiselle SSF?

It's funny you mention this.  I must be doing that but don't remember doing it.  On the other hand, perhaps the spent round re-enters the chamber on mine, so that the extractor is in the proper place to feed the next belt, and charging the unit ejects the old round.  In any event, it's just not a problem when the upper is working well.

As for the light strikes, you may have to closely examine all moving parts and polish everything up.  The firing pin was "draggy" on mine until I removed it and polished out a burr where it was machined for the cross pin.  I also chucked it in a drill and used some sandpaper to slightly reduce the OD and polish it up.  Another problem was a burr on the flip cam.  You'll feel these things when you hand cycle the action slowly without a recoil spring.

The old Lakeside forum is somewhat defunct, but left up for historical purposes.  See if you can get here and checkout the troubleshooting threads.

On the last round ejection, i'm not to overly concerned. Most of the time the spent round went back into the chamber but cycling it repeatedly would get the case jammed against the chamber. I did load a belt last night just to cycle and make sure the rounds ejected. Which all did except for last round. Also how in the world do you get the firing pin out? I can take the cross pin out and firing pin will come out towards the rear, but about 90% of the way out it hits the rear part of the bolt and there's not enough of an angle to slide it out. Am I suppose to remove the bolt face in order for the firing pin to come of the front side?

I tried to register on lakseide forum but can't so I'm unable to view any pages. I'd imagine there is a wealt of information there for me. Thanks for the tips though. I've got to locate more CCI blazer or 40gr RN CCI minimags. Only have about 100rds of blazer left. That stuff didn't work in any of my other sheen guns so I traded them off a while ago (bout 2k rounds).

You have to remove the M16 sear trip by unscrewing it from the back of the bolt.  There will be enough room to tilt it down then.

I did remove the sear trip, but it's still a no go. Will posts pics later when i get home. If it ain't one thing it's another.

I don't know if you tried this, but the Razorback maker still operates the Horseshoe Bend Gun Shop.  You might try calling in for support on some of the trickier issues.

Horseshoe Bend Gun Shop
Address: 265 Cardinal Dr, Horseshoe Bend, AR 72512
Phone:(870) 670-4867

Thank you for all your help. Spoke on the phone with Eric (right?) and we chatted for a few min. Figured out I couldn't register on Lakeside forum due to gmail domain. I had to use my isp domain to register. Bam! I'll be reading through all the threads for next few days. Also got the firing pin out! It was just a little stuburn that last half a mm. Didn't want to tug or bend it before causing any damage. Eric assured me it would come out cause that's how it went in. Simple fact. He aslo confirmed the quarter trick with some tubes being different depths. Also said a full faced mil-spec trigger would help with the light primer strike vs the SSF trigger. Will do lots of reading and lots of trials to report next time. Fingers crossed!

Good deal!  Happy to help and now that the main company is gone, the community is all we have.  Hopefully, yours will soon run well.

Oh i've watch that video LOTS of times even before I bought this X-1. "I want one" is priceless...and made me want one also. I have no doubt I will get this running well. Covering all my bases here since I was not able to register prior with Lakeside forum. I've since then tried to read each and every thread on that forum and there is a wealth of knowledge on there. Another plus is that Eric is still supporting tech issues and misc parts.

Well I'll be a monkey's ass. The trigger was the main culprit. Tossed in the mil-spec trigger and she ran darn good. I do see where the belts being broke in makes a world of difference. I had one 50rd belt that was mostly broken in, one 100rd belt that was barely broken in, and i still have five 200rd belts NIB. Don't know if I want to open them up yet. I will probably order a few more belts from Eric and hopefully he has some charging handles in varying weights. I always feel like I'm going to rack this one time and the handle will come straight off (plastic). On a side note when I received this upper the previous owner had used two shims to move the trip forward some more. They were not very good shims being washers (come loose after racking a few times) and all, but i took them out and used the factory trip and a lilttle blue loctite. I was more amazed the trip worked flawlessly than anything else. Otherwise the stoppages were just stiff belts and rounds not stripping. Very happy! Thanks again to all who've chime in. Stupid excited for this upper.

https://youtu.be/xGyBa8CVI0Q

I'm surprised about the trigger.  Must be a subtle geometry difference that goes unnoticed on 5.56.

The belts can make all the difference.  Uniform loading depth is very important to avoid wasted energy in the cycle.  I used the plastic loading tool to date but I lucked into one of these that I have not yet had a chance to try.



Not my video...

It has to do with the face/weight of the hammer. The milspec has more surface to strike with and has a little more umphhh. I could tell a difference just by dry firing and watching the hammer drop. But dude!!! Whoazzzas. What a cool ass rig for loading the belts. That's a definite collectors item for sure. Where did u get it and how can i buy one? I'm slowly learning to check the entire belt for uniformity. Mine did not come with brass catcher nor feed/catch trays but that can be done with a 20rd steel mag amd a couple of plastic boxes. Slowly but surely I will keep getting more items for this upper. I bought the m-16 with plans on keeping it for a very long time. The fm-9 belt is fun, this is just as fun though. It will look a little bit more like a 1919 with my spade grips. Haven't wanted a shrike yet, but....if one comes across that is priced to where I HAVE to buy it then i will. Thanks for sharing the loader!

Will be calling Eric tomorrow for extra belts/spare parts kit/and some charging handles. Slowing the ROF would be nice. Please let me know of any other tips/tricks/accessories for this thing. I was going to shave down the threaded comlar for this model so I can put a can on it, but it sounds justfine w/o supressor, it would just take away from the 1919 look.

The loader is one of ten made by Lakeside.  Five more were made for 22 magnum.  The previous owner needed to liquidate for health reasons and I was in the right spot at the right time.  It's the only one I've seen for sale...ever.  

I think you know that I made replica brass catchers and feedboxes, but I only have a few catchers left.


Definitely look into spare charging handles.  They have to be somewhat light, and the reciprocating motion appears to induce stress failures.  I had one of the plastic ones shear already.

Eric didn't recommend using a suppressor.  It is so easy to pump a large amount of rounds through them when the unit works properly they essentially weld onto the barrel.  Very difficult to remove.

Was that you I emailed about the brass catchers amd feed trays? Lolz. Been reading and searching a lot lately. Ya I'd like to have orginal parts with LS logo etc...but if all else fails I and can't find an original AND give up on trying to make my own. I will most definitely contact you soon.

You lucky sob!  I've been wondering if there were ever any schematics or cad drawings of that loader so I could machine one for myself.

that is awesome!