TL;DR-  Buy this sh!t.  

So I got a bottle of this for free at the ECNS shooting event from the promo table.  Now we all know how much of a hassle cleaning suppressor parts can be and there's only a few methods that are decent; ultrasonic, tumbling with ss pins, media blasting, and "the dip".  All have their own hassles.  So I really didn't give much weight to the promises on some bottle of stuff I'd never heard of before that was given to me for free.  Safe on aluminum, titanium, stainless, steel, and environmentally friendly and user safe and water based and biodegradable and blah blah blah...  yeah, right.  This is going to suck.    And it's $30 for a spray bottle?  LOL, maybe I can sell it.  I tossed it aside when I got home 3 weeks ago and forgot about it until I found it again last night.

I had a really dirty mount that had a significant amount of lead and carbon caking from full auto fire sitting around.  I don't even bother trying to clean my mounts anymore until they begin to seize up occasionally, which this one was at the point of.  The rock hard full auto deposits don't even blast off all that easily.  So I figured what the heck, poured some of this miracle potion in a small dish, set the suppressor mount in and wholly expected to be disappointed 24 hours later.   I don't care; it was free to me.  I checked on it about 3-4 hours later and WOW... it was clean.  Clean clean.  I took it out, wiped it with a paper towel and rinsed it under warm water in the sink.  No scrubbing.

OMFG. Get some of this shit.  I don't care that it's $30 on their website.  It's like "the dip" on steroids that's safe on aluminum and won't poison me.  Better than any method I've ever tried.  I have no doubts it will clean baffles following their instructions, and I'll do some baffles here soon just to post an update here.  When I run out, I'm buying the big gallon jug and pouring it in an ultrasonic cleaner (I can't even fathom how ridiculous this stuff is going to work with agitation or sonic action).  I'll never have to manually clean a baffle, mount, pistol slide, pistol barrel, charging handle or BCG again.

Before and after (about 3-4 hours)

 

 


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Test 2:

Neglected SWR Warlock (Aluminum baffles). Several bricks of CCI Standard (uncoated lead).  I don’t keep track of rounds and I don’t clean suppressors, so it was a pain to get apart.  I reused the solution I used on the flash hider and topped it off to get everything submerged.  So it’s a bit used up already.

Before…



Macaroni in the pot; that’s some wet ass…



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5.5 hour Later...  Pulled one baffle out randomly and simply wiped it with a paper towel.  No scrubbing or scraping.  The nooks on the inside and the scallops on the face still have some hard caking… everything else is squeaky clean. The anodizing appears unaffected.  I’m pleased so far.  

I’m going to put this one back in and leave the other baffles untouched and check at the 24 hour mark.











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30 hour rimfire update:

The stuff did excellent on the carbon and copper caked AAC suppressor mount after only several hours.  I’m a bit disappointed in the rimfire performance.  This is about the worst case scenario though; neglected aluminum rimfire can shooting mostly uncoated lead CCI standard.  It’s hardly a scientific conclusion, but I think it works well on the carbon/copper of the centerfire mounts, but has a hard time handling increased amounts of lead in the rimfire can.

Or maybe the solution just got all used up… it was already used solution from the flash hider and this time was *completely* black when with maybe 1/8” of sludge resting on the bottom of the dish.  I’m going to put the 4 “bad” baffles into some fresh solution overnight again, but I’m skeptical they’ll look get much better.  





2 of the baffles are pretty clean, there’s still some caking on the face scallops. I’m pleased with these:



4 baffles are a little better overall but there’s still significant caking inside and outside. No idea why these didn't clean up as well.  Maybe they were more forward/backward in the stack and started with more fouling. If I had to guess, based on the caked thread end and the cleaner endcap, the hard caking was on the baffles closest to the muzzle.  It did seem to cut through and clean up the thinner sections of caking though.  Maybe the treatment would be good if done frequently before fouling really cakes up.



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Final update (maybe):

So to test if the solution just got all used up and needed refreshed, I replaced the old black solution yesterday with fresh stuff and I also put it in a mason jar this time so I could swirl/agitate it frequently.  Remember, the first baffle soaking was with solution I'd already used on the AAC blackout mount.  So it wasn't quite fresh.  Furthermore, the steel centerfire suppressor mount caking would be primarily carbon and copper fouling due to FMJ rounds whereas the (very neglected) aluminum rimfire baffle fouling is primarily carbon and lead because the ammo used was mostly CCI Standard uncoated lead. So different base material and different fouling composition and much heavier caking on the baffles.  Plus the cloudy black solution had a different "feel" and smell to it; it felt "drier" and less "surfactanty" (shutup... I get to make words up if I want)... which is what leads me to question whether that solution might just be all used up and no longer effective.

> So after the suppressor mount, the cleaning solution had attained a lightly cloudy but mostly clear blueish green tint (indicative of primarily cupric/cuprous salts in solution) and had carbon precipitate on the bottom of the dish (carbon is pretty much insoluble in most any solvents due to being very nonpolar with stable covalent bonding; so it's not surprising the carbon precipitate settled out and the copper turned the solution blue.  I suspect the cloudiness was from a bit of lead).

>> And after the first baffle soaking some baffles were darn near clean and the severely caked baffles had less caking on them, but still not clean and action appears to have halted.  So there was a reduction of lead deposits.  And the solution was opaque black... furthermore the black solution was not easily cleared pouring through filter paper, this tells us it's not likely just suspended carbon precipitate but maybe extremely fine lead(II) sulfide in suspension (??).  Most lead compound are usually clear, sometimes yellow, I can't think of a black lead solution and I don't think the lead removal is making lead acetate (ie: "the dip") both because of the color and the PH of the new and used solution are both >8 (alkaline).  I didn't have the balls to taste it for sweetness and no longer have access to an FTIR or HPLC equipment.  Anyways, I digress... all this to say I think it absolutely "works on lead" in addition to the carbon and copper.

So I refreshed the solution, put the 3 worst baffles and the thread mount back in solution, and gave it another ~24 hours overnight (swirling/shaking it somewhat regularly, this time).  And the solution is black again today.  I pulled out all the baffles and wiped them off - just paper towel wiping, no scraping or hard work.  There is noticeable deposit reduction again - I can see most of the interior walls and deposits are mostly just remaining in the nooks and crannies.  Much improvement.   I think this confirms that the lack of complete performance on the baffles previously was due to the solution getting all used up.  These were the 3 worst baffles and now look pretty decent inside and out.











I'm  not going to keep soaking and wiping these to complete cleanliness seeing as I've already used ~9oz of my 16oz bottle.  Although also keep in mind this was a quite neglected 15 year old rimfire silencer with two rebuilds on it that I don't bother cleaning (when it fills up I just pay for a rebuild, LOL).  Conclusion:  This product works, is low effort, and works on aluminum!  At this point I am completely confident that, given enough simple soak/swirl/wipe cycles and using enough volume of solution to handle the level of fouling, that the baffles would eventually get completely clean.  And likely much much faster with something more volumes (that could handle lots of fouling before being used up) like a heated ultrasonic cleaner.  Moreover, if one were to do this treatment to rimfire baffles regularly and not let mounts/baffles get too caked up, it would seem to be pretty effortless.  After all, it had the blackout mount nearly spotless in just a few hours.  HOWEVER I DO NOT THINK that simply spraying a few squirts on rimfire baffles will affect much change because it heavier fouling does appear to "use up" and neutralize a fair bit of product.  But I'll bet you can get away with cleaning centerfire suppressors parts or mounts using  significantly less solution; maybe even just spraying it on and shooting it clean like they say (although that makes me cringe because whatever this shit is and it's lead/copper byproducts are is going to end up all over your face and in your lungs... I think I'll just rinse them clean and let them dry before shooting, LOL).

Anyone used the Botetech suppressor cleaner to compare this to?

Has anyone noticed if this affects anodizing.   I have a q erector,  im always looking to make cleaning it easier

See the OP

Just ordered 32oz from amazon (CE Showroom seller - likely a drop ship...or a quart of water). Looking for something to tackle my Mask. We all need more real-life reviews posted so thought I'd throw my hat in the ring. Will know more in a week or so...

Use this to clean my Occulus with 500-600 fired through it. Disassembled and let the baffles and tube soak submerged overnight. All the carbon loosen and was easily removed, no negative affects on the outside appearance of the tube.

Nice stuff to use, no odor, I used gloves but still got some on my skin, no issue. It’s seems like it has a soap quality to it, you get bubbles like it’s a soap. Hard to explain but once you use it you’ll see.

It worked so good I cleaned some glock barrels with it, carbon wipes right off.

Does anyone have a recommendation for something that is actually good to plug the muzzle  end of a sealed suppressor for use with this? Obviously something that won't be melted by the solvent.

Something like this should work.

Keep looking it up on Amazon, but keep backing out cause it seems expensive

Same here. What's the best place to get this stuff?

Scheels.

Another boring positive report. Cleaned my Obsidian45 with unknown round count (less than a 1k more than 500 whoops, forgot all the 9mm I shot thru it. Easy 1k maybe 1.5k). Couldn't pry the baffles apart using the hex key technique. Soaked everything for 24 hours, carbon sloughed off of exposed surfaces. Was able to get all the baffles disassembled, most just wiped clean. Got the tri-lug adapter out and sprayed it; almost all the carbon just wiped off.  Sprayed down the body and let it sit. Put all the baffles back in the used solution for a final soak and I'm confident they will wipe clean tomorrow. This is really good stuff and thanks OP for bringing it to my attention.

Speaking of tri-lugs…

My OLD aac evolution 9 is used on a machinegun and pretty much not cleaned, so it’s dirty.  The piston started sticking, but the adapter no longer disassembles and it was rocksett to the suppressor awhile ago.  If I try to unscrew the 3-lug adapter apart to service it (even with a strap wrench and collet holder in a lathe) it pulls the whole rear can mount blast chamber section off the registered tube (it’s supposed to be a sealed can, FYI, LOL) so this is problematic.

I soaked the whole 3-lug and blast chamber assembly in the solution and was able to break free the piston and it now spring-locks on the 3-lug barrel again no problem. In the future, I’m probably just never going to remove the suppressor from the machinegun again.

I used it to clean a sparrow and a mask and was very happy with the results. Definitely the easiest method I have used.

@Millennial  So you're saying this stuff dissolved the Rocksett?

LOL, no... I wish.  My 3-lug adapter is still thoroughly stuck together AND stuck rocksetted to the "blast chamber assembly" of the suppressor.  Once I had all those steel parts off the aluminum-bodied suppressor tube (the blast chamber assembly is not supposed to be removable) I tried heat and better leverage methods to no avail. Tried soaking in water, boiling water, everything. No luck.  So I dropped the whole stuck mess into the breakthrough suppressor cleaner overnight and it dissolved the fouling from the inside the 3-lug piston assembly so it at least functions.  But it didn't loosen the 3-lug adapter itself or the rocksett to the blast chamber.  So I just screwed the blast chamber back into the tube with some loctite and called it good.

If you've ever seen a clogged up 3-lug piston, they're ether stuck on the gun until you disassemble the adapter assembly to clean them out (so the piston can move) or you take the 3-lug can off the gun and the spring piston doesn't articulate so the next time you go to put it on the gun it isn't retained and just kind of twists and rattles.  The pistons need to be able to travel within the adapter to capture the lugs and keep their spring pressure.

Ah. I see. Thanks for the detailed explanation.

A good reminder for the rest of us that 3-lugs do need regular PM. I just had my CGS 3-lug in this stuff and it's like new again.

Yeah, I've been reading a lot of Rocksett stories like this lately. Also a good reminder to go really light with this stuff.

Another happy customer.  It cleaned my 22 suppressor baffles, tube and end caps amazingly/

I emailed the manufacturer and asked them if it had been tested on brownells alumahyde 2.  They responded, on a weekend.  The response said that they had not tried it so could not say if it would remove the alumahyde or not.

Has anyone who has used this stuff tried cleaning anything painted with alumahyde?

I apologize I have not read the whole thread. Just some of all you guys results.

You just dump this stuff down the drain or in yard/ditch when you’re finished?

I dump it in my neighbors garden.  I've started a observation journal to quantify any negative effects.  Since they don't know and I didn't dump it in my own garden (as a control) it's basically a blind study.  I will update periodically...

Maybe it's just because I'm sleep deprived, but this is some funny shit. Nope. Pretty sure it's just funny

i can get this through distro for the 32oz bottle. ARF has cost me money yet again.

As a study should be conducted!!

Excellent. I will pour it in the ditch out front.

Do you want a zombie apocalypse? Because this is how you get a zombie apocalypse.

 Make sure to stock up some of this stuff:

https://hornadyarmory.com/product/hornady-zombie-max-223-remington-ammo-55-grain-z-max/

Bah. I ordered a gallon and got an email that they were canceling my order due to lack of stock.

Now I’ll have to order from somewhere else.

This stuff got very popular suddenly.

Someone somewhere owes Millennial a commission check.

This place costs a lot of money, however…

Cleaned two 22 cans and an Octane 45
Very impressed with the results.

Another satisfied customer, stuff works amazingly well.

I'm very curious how well it will do on more mundane objects: Like the bolt itself.
Steel wool sheds tiny hairs as you work it.  Best have some paper underneath as you work it.

I also have a mono core suppressor that I haven't been able to open for several months.  It needs cleaning badly.

I got a gallon this weekend- haven’t tried it yet, but I have a .22 can that is pretty dirty

They were giving it away at the east coast night shoot.

There was cases available… in hindsight I should have seen if I could have gotten like 3-4 more bottles.

I was notified that rangeusa.com restocked the gallon containers today for a very reasonable price.

Lanbos Armory got some 1G jugs  back in stock and I was able to scarf one finally.  $62.50+tax+$10 flat rate shipping.

my main distro got this stuff back in stock. bought some 32ouncers.

cant wait to use this stuff!

got the restock email at 10AM, and got one

Wow, did not expect that. I got a package of their oils and solvents for free and basically gave it away thinking it was just worth what it cost me. Oops.

Has anyone soaked a rifle suppressor with this yet?

I went for it...

Knights Armament QDSS NT4 that has approximately 600 rounds through it. I find that the gate latch and locking collar get a lot of buildup in the channels which contributes to a notchy feel and binding of the mechanisms. Decided to dip the backend and then ultimately submerged the whole thing and couldn't be more thrilled with this product. In the meantime, it made quick work of my internal mounting parts on my Silencerco OMEGA 9K can.

This stuff works great! I paid $30 for the full-size bottle at Sheel's. Will definitely shop around going forward but it was nice to grab it locally and right away.







Fully submerged...



After letting it sit for a few hours, I rinsed out the NT4 in hot water at our dump sink (yes, KAC instructions say to do this). Then shook it out and dried it off really good and then placed in a bag of rice (uncooked of course) overnight to ensure no moisture remained.

Terrible pic, but it's definitely cleaner inside!

I got a gallon of the stuff. After a congical visit with my rugged mustang I took the stuff there and put some in a cup and let it soak for 10 mins. 99% of everything came right off with a wipe, just a few small spots remain. Once I get it home for good I will do it again, but it only had like 100 rounds thru it.

The solution now has my 9mm booster soaking in it, now that has hundreds of rounds thru it with out cleaning.

Oh edit to add dribbled a few drops on a case of coke ( accidently ), it took the color out of the cardboard faster than I could wipe it off. What ever is in this is a great solvent.

How did it do with the lead build up in the sparrow?  Mine needs to be cleaned.

I wonder how well this stuff would clean a flow-thru can like a huxwrx

Submerged Mask baffles for about 4 hours tonight. Very effective - would say it cleaned about 98% lead/carbon with only a simple wipe-down. It is worth noting that 4 of the 8 baffles discolored considerably. Would not use on the outer tube or endcaps. Stuff is harsh but likely needed with so much crap that builds up inside a rimfire can. Will use again but after longer runs.

Gallon jugs are back in stock at lanbos.

Thanks for the heads up. Just placed an order.

I have a YHM Turbo V1 with...gosh it's gotta be 15k rounds or so that I'll be using this on. I'll weigh it before and after. I know it's gained a lot of weight over the years so let's see how it does. I'm not expecting much but only one way to find out.

Just got home from Scheels, got the Mod9 soaking now.

Good review and looks promising, picking some up this week and will try it on my Warlock 22 can.

After using this in a soaking method, can you re-use the solution or is it a one time use deal and start fresh each time?

Try reusing. I use the carb cleaner in a bucket multiple years before replacing. It gets pretty filthy looking, but still works.

I do the same for other chemicals like WD40. As for the filth, when dirty I pour it through a strainer with a coffee filter and it comes out clean, just like new.