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Posted: 8/16/2015 3:31:06 PM EDT
[#1]
I have changed over to grease recently. Mobil 1 synthetic works great but you have to keep an eye on dirt/fuzz build up as the grease seems to trap alot more than oil. Just wipe it down and regrease every few weeks and you shouldn't have any issues.
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Posted: 8/16/2015 4:01:49 PM EDT
[#2]
I just use regular gun oil. I never had a problem I see no reason to change. But I carry Glocks that don't need that much attention.
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Posted: 8/16/2015 7:37:46 PM EDT
[#3]
I run my competition guns wet, but don't really lube my G42 or G17 other than a dab of moly grease on the connector contact area
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Posted: 8/16/2015 7:50:32 PM EDT
[#4]
I've been using this for that last year or so.
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Posted: 8/16/2015 9:15:33 PM EDT
[#5]
I spent HOURS and hours searching for info on the best grease for my autos. I had been using an aircraft grade grease then switched to overly expensive gunslick.
Lubriplate SFL-0 is what I switched to. Nontoxic and nonstaining are bonus, but it lubes as well or better than the fancy gun greases and only costs $15 for a lifetime size can at midwayusa. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/379954/lubriplate-sfl-0-gun-grease-14-oz-can This stuff has just the right viscosity and stays on even when wet. I'm not a scientist or anything, but i put some between my thumb and finger and ran it under the water- it stayed put and was slicker than snot. 
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Posted: 8/16/2015 9:49:04 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been using this for that last year or so. http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/p_100011038_1.jpg +1 and love it. |
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Posted: 8/16/2015 10:31:56 PM EDT
[#7]
Mostly oil (mobile 1) and damn little of it on my Glocks. On my Sig and Hi Power I"ll oil everything and Grease (Wilson Combat grease)the slide rails.
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Posted: 8/16/2015 11:18:48 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
+1 and love it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've been using this for that last year or so. http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/p_100011038_1.jpg +1 and love it. Yep. No issues after 2 years. I have yet to have any problems that you hear about. + It doesn't smell like typical CLP, or stain your shirts. |
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Posted: 8/17/2015 12:48:31 AM EDT
[#9]
I tried a couple different kinds of grease for a few years. Never did like it. FP-10 for me.
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Posted: 8/17/2015 10:02:27 AM EDT
[#10]
I switched to Weaponshield a year or two ago. Good stuff, been happy with it so far.
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Posted: 8/17/2015 12:30:15 PM EDT
[#11]
I use white lithium grease for everything, and have used it for years with no issues. I don't like my guns "wet", even my AR15. I'll usually regrease after a range trip or a couple months depending on when I can get out. I just cleaned off my AR BCG and regreased it after 5 months of sitting in my safe. Still cycled and felt like a nice broken in AR should.
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Posted: 8/17/2015 1:18:13 PM EDT
[#12]
I use Tetra grease and have for over ten years.
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Posted: 8/17/2015 2:52:24 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep. No issues after 2 years. I have yet to have any problems that you hear about. + It doesn't smell like typical CLP, or stain your shirts. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I've been using this for that last year or so. http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/p_100011038_1.jpg +1 and love it. Yep. No issues after 2 years. I have yet to have any problems that you hear about. + It doesn't smell like typical CLP, or stain your shirts. Another +1. Works fine for me and the SO likes the smell. I like the liquid for internals and slide rails. Grease for the externals. |
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Posted: 8/17/2015 3:22:50 PM EDT
[#14]
I CLP all the things...and thats it....
Have I been doing it wrong all this time? |
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Posted: 8/17/2015 3:50:39 PM EDT
[#15]
Lubriplate SFL-1 here. SFL-0 was too thin for me.
Don't over think it man. Pick the NLGI grade grease (0-real thin, 1-thin, 2-thick, etc.) that makes you happy, then buy based on price. It really is just two pieces of metal rubbing against each other. The world figured that out long ago. No need for Space Shuttle Door Anti-Squeak $500 per ml stuff. Good luck. |
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Posted: 8/17/2015 5:33:21 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I CLP all the things...and thats it.... Have I been doing it wrong all this time? Nothing wrong with any good CLP, used it for years. I just got sick of the smell, and found froglube............. |
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Posted: 8/17/2015 5:40:05 PM EDT
[#17]
I've used Magnalube on all of my firearms for years. Oil has a tendency to migrate and, eventually, evaporate, at least much faster than grease will.
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Posted: 8/17/2015 7:44:33 PM EDT
[#18]
I changed to grease a while back. It ensures it stays on the rails and wet when i need it.
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Posted: 8/17/2015 9:51:32 PM EDT
[#19]
I just started using eezox. It's a dry lube which is excellent because it doesn't attract dirt and lint.
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Posted: 8/17/2015 11:48:56 PM EDT
[#20]
here's an odd one for ya....
I run my carry dry. I oil it when I'm gonna do some range time. then when done i clean it and leave it dry. its NOT gonna fail dry. there will be NO issues. now if you use a thick grease, it will fail. use an oil, use too much, check your eyes. a carry gun doesn't need to be oiled to work. but if you just have to any light oil will work. |
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Posted: 8/18/2015 8:45:34 AM EDT
[#21]
Your carry sidearm should be relatively dry, if your using a polymer frame such as a M&P, Glock, Ect they need minimum lube anyway
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Posted: 8/18/2015 9:58:42 AM EDT
[#22]
ultra thin film of grease on metal slide rails, a thin film of oil/grease mix on barrel and wear points. Nothing more is needed. It's a fact.
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Posted: 8/18/2015 10:24:04 AM EDT
[#23]
I use Brian Enos Slide Glide grease. Works
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Posted: 8/18/2015 11:25:58 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: here's an odd one for ya.... I run my carry dry. I oil it when I'm gonna do some range time. then when done i clean it and leave it dry. its NOT gonna fail dry. there will be NO issues. now if you use a thick grease, it will fail. use an oil, use too much, check your eyes. a carry gun doesn't need to be oiled to work. but if you just have to any light oil will work. Quote HistoryQuoted: here's an odd one for ya.... I run my carry dry. I oil it when I'm gonna do some range time. then when done i clean it and leave it dry. its NOT gonna fail dry. there will be NO issues. now if you use a thick grease, it will fail. use an oil, use too much, check your eyes. a carry gun doesn't need to be oiled to work. but if you just have to any light oil will work. Your carry sidearm should be relatively dry, if your using a polymer frame such as a M&P, Glock, Ect they need minimum lube anyway The reason I lube/grease is more a rust preventative measure more so than a matter of function. When it's summer in the dirty South, 100% humidity, and my sidearm is pressed against my body, I like to have some peace of mind  |
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Posted: 8/18/2015 12:44:59 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lubriplate SFL-1 here. SFL-0 was too thin for me. Don't over think it man. Pick the NLGI grade grease (0-real thin, 1-thin, 2-thick, etc.) that makes you happy, then buy based on price. It really is just two pieces of metal rubbing against each other. The world figured that out long ago. No need for Space Shuttle Door Anti-Squeak $500 per ml stuff. Good luck. I slather it on thick, reassemble, cycle, field strip, and wipe off the excess. 
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Posted: 8/18/2015 6:50:12 PM EDT
[#26]
Carry a Glock and don't worry about it
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Posted: 8/19/2015 5:02:02 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I run my carry dry. I oil it when I'm gonna do some range time. then when done i clean it and leave it dry. its NOT gonna fail dry. there will be NO issues. . This. If it jams its more likely an ammunition/magazine problem and not a lube problem, unless its a problem with the slide/recievefit or something. I carry a .45 Springfield 1911 GI, plain jane. The corrosion issue is legitimate, but if you shoot and clean it frequently enough that shouldn't be an issue. Unless you sweat profusely. 
EDIT: If you actually worry about sweat, wear a wife beater under your shirt and tuck it into your pants. It is a little warmer, but it keeps the moisture away from your gun better than not wearing one. |
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Posted: 8/19/2015 5:16:05 PM EDT
[#28]
Rule of lube.......if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it.
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Posted: 8/19/2015 5:18:52 PM EDT
[#29]
TW-25b for pistols and shotguns in general.
Oil for rifles. |
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Posted: 8/19/2015 7:27:58 PM EDT
[#30]
The froglube paste has been working great, my guns feel lubed even after I wipe the paste off.
You absolutely have to remove all petro based lubes first, it will not play well with them. Or you can carry a glock, and not worry so much. I just shoot much better with anything but a glock. |
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Posted: 8/21/2015 7:33:41 AM EDT
[#31]
slip 2000 ewl. it will stay as a light coating for months.
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Posted: 8/21/2015 4:28:53 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use Tetra grease and have for over ten years. I have used Tetra grease for over 20 years with no problems. When I need oil I use Weapon Shield and have used it for about the last 7 years. Both products do the jub just fine! |
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Posted: 8/21/2015 5:24:43 PM EDT
[#33]
As this thread and plenty of others like it demonstrate, there are plenty of weapon lubes out there that will work exceedingly well. Price is usually the only differing detail. Don't be a moron and pay $16 for a 2 oz. bottle of some touted wonder lube.
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Posted: 8/21/2015 5:40:31 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Rule of lube.......if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it. not in this case...at all. |
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Posted: 8/21/2015 6:46:09 PM EDT
[#35]
I use SuperLube grease on carry pistols, it's inexpensive, works great, has no odor, is colorless, doesn't drip or run, and is hypoallergenic and even food safe rated.
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Posted: 8/22/2015 7:13:03 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I use SuperLube grease on carry pistols, it's inexpensive, works great, has no odor, is colorless, doesn't drip or run, and is hypoallergenic and even food safe rated. This is what I was using prior to going to Frog Lube. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 8:55:18 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
not in this case...at all. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Rule of lube.......if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it. not in this case...at all. No kidding. People that don't understand machinery very well like to repeat that. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 9:18:52 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have changed over to grease recently. Mobil 1 synthetic works great but you have to keep an eye on dirt/fuzz build up as the grease seems to trap alot more than oil. Just wipe it down and regrease every few weeks and you shouldn't have any issues. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 11:27:04 AM EDT
[#39]
Tetra gun grease is what I use.
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Posted: 8/24/2015 8:38:01 PM EDT
[#40]
Lately I've been using white lithium grease on the end of the barrel, locking surfaces where it engages the slide, and the camming surfaces of the barrel lug and locking block. Then I use FP-10 or Slip2000 on the slide rails and any pivots that need some lube. This combo seems to be working well. No malfunctions whatsoever across multiple guns after doing things this way. Is it overthinking things? Maybe. But it seems to work well.
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Posted: 8/26/2015 3:54:08 AM EDT
[#41]
I have been using tetra as well but I also use a little CLP. Grease the connector area and slide rails a bit. Everything else gets CLP.
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Posted: 9/1/2015 8:06:43 AM EDT
[#42]
I use TW25B grease on the rails and barrels of all my steel and alloy framed pistols, carry gun or range toys, and Breakfree LP (not CLP) on the frame rails and barrels of my plastic carry guns.
My pistols exhibit very little wear, the lubricants stay put where they belong,the pistols provide excellent reliability, and I'm a high volume shooter and carry every day all day. IMO folks get into heated discussions over which lubes "are the best" and have become their favorites because there are so many excellent lubes out there to choose from these days. Technique when using any of the great lubes is more important than which of the products are used IMO. |
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Posted: 9/2/2015 2:41:03 PM EDT
[#43]
I grease the rails on my Sig and oil the trigger, slide release, mag release buttons etc.
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Posted: 9/17/2015 7:08:50 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
... IMO folks get into heated discussions over which lubes "are the best" and have become their favorites because there are so many excellent lubes out there to choose from these days. Technique when using any of the great lubes is more important than which of the products are used IMO. This. Pretty much any high grade lubricant can protect for the rounds most guns will see between cleanings in the burbs. Pick the lube that stays in place best between range sessions IMO. Otherwisw, no need to spend big bucks, though neglect/abuse of a gun may require something more. |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 11:35:52 AM EDT
[#45]
weapon shield grease on the rails, I clean my range gun 1x a year and shoot 30K of lead reloads and have no gun related stoppages.
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Posted: 9/18/2015 11:42:21 AM EDT
[#46]
If you have a quality pistol, I like using lubes that are designed to be dry. Froglube, Seal1, Hornady One Shot TAP HD, etc.
Here is my reasoning: 1- no worry at all of the product running or evaporating. I know people who use light oils and they are re-oiling every week, and still having issues with oxidation in hot/humid months. 2- it stays were you put it and lasts nearly indefinitely. 3- no worry about the product running or rubbing onto your clothes. 4- no wet oil or grease to retain dirt, lint, grit, etc. |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 1:02:04 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you have a quality pistol, I like using lubes that are designed to be dry. Froglube, proven to gum up and slow down pistols |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 2:23:26 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: proven to gum up and slow down pistols Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If you have a quality pistol, I like using lubes that are designed to be dry. Froglube, proven to gum up and slow down pistols |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 6:58:53 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
]Only by folks who didn't follow the directions... did you verify that with them? |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 9:43:54 PM EDT
[#50]
I've been using this for about 8 years. No reason to change.
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