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Posted: 8/16/2015 3:22:36 PM EDT
I was watching a youtube video from Reid Hendrichs and he said he uses hi temp automotive grease on all of his glocks ar15's ak's
I had never thought of using grease on a pistol and it makes sense that the oil will dry up quickly and grease would stay put and not dry up. It would also make sense to oil a weapon that is not used often for metal protection but a carry pistol should be properly lubed all the time. Who uses grease on their carry pistols? |
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I have changed over to grease recently. Mobil 1 synthetic works great but you have to keep an eye on dirt/fuzz build up as the grease seems to trap alot more than oil. Just wipe it down and regrease every few weeks and you shouldn't have any issues.
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I just use regular gun oil. I never had a problem I see no reason to change. But I carry Glocks that don't need that much attention.
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I run my competition guns wet, but don't really lube my G42 or G17 other than a dab of moly grease on the connector contact area
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I spent HOURS and hours searching for info on the best grease for my autos. I had been using an aircraft grade grease then switched to overly expensive gunslick.
Lubriplate SFL-0 is what I switched to. Nontoxic and nonstaining are bonus, but it lubes as well or better than the fancy gun greases and only costs $15 for a lifetime size can at midwayusa. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/379954/lubriplate-sfl-0-gun-grease-14-oz-can This stuff has just the right viscosity and stays on even when wet. I'm not a scientist or anything, but i put some between my thumb and finger and ran it under the water- it stayed put and was slicker than snot. |
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I've been using this for that last year or so. http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/p_100011038_1.jpg View Quote +1 and love it. |
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Mostly oil (mobile 1) and damn little of it on my Glocks. On my Sig and Hi Power I"ll oil everything and Grease (Wilson Combat grease)the slide rails.
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I've been using this for that last year or so. http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/p_100011038_1.jpg +1 and love it. Yep. No issues after 2 years. I have yet to have any problems that you hear about. + It doesn't smell like typical CLP, or stain your shirts. |
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I tried a couple different kinds of grease for a few years. Never did like it. FP-10 for me.
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I switched to Weaponshield a year or two ago. Good stuff, been happy with it so far.
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I use white lithium grease for everything, and have used it for years with no issues. I don't like my guns "wet", even my AR15. I'll usually regrease after a range trip or a couple months depending on when I can get out. I just cleaned off my AR BCG and regreased it after 5 months of sitting in my safe. Still cycled and felt like a nice broken in AR should.
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Quoted: Yep. No issues after 2 years. I have yet to have any problems that you hear about. + It doesn't smell like typical CLP, or stain your shirts. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I've been using this for that last year or so. http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/p_100011038_1.jpg +1 and love it. Yep. No issues after 2 years. I have yet to have any problems that you hear about. + It doesn't smell like typical CLP, or stain your shirts. Another +1. Works fine for me and the SO likes the smell. I like the liquid for internals and slide rails. Grease for the externals. |
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I CLP all the things...and thats it....
Have I been doing it wrong all this time? |
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Lubriplate SFL-1 here. SFL-0 was too thin for me.
Don't over think it man. Pick the NLGI grade grease (0-real thin, 1-thin, 2-thick, etc.) that makes you happy, then buy based on price. It really is just two pieces of metal rubbing against each other. The world figured that out long ago. No need for Space Shuttle Door Anti-Squeak $500 per ml stuff. Good luck. |
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I've used Magnalube on all of my firearms for years. Oil has a tendency to migrate and, eventually, evaporate, at least much faster than grease will.
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I changed to grease a while back. It ensures it stays on the rails and wet when i need it.
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I just started using eezox. It's a dry lube which is excellent because it doesn't attract dirt and lint.
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here's an odd one for ya....
I run my carry dry. I oil it when I'm gonna do some range time. then when done i clean it and leave it dry. its NOT gonna fail dry. there will be NO issues. now if you use a thick grease, it will fail. use an oil, use too much, check your eyes. a carry gun doesn't need to be oiled to work. but if you just have to any light oil will work. |
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Your carry sidearm should be relatively dry, if your using a polymer frame such as a M&P, Glock, Ect they need minimum lube anyway
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ultra thin film of grease on metal slide rails, a thin film of oil/grease mix on barrel and wear points. Nothing more is needed. It's a fact.
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Quoted: here's an odd one for ya.... I run my carry dry. I oil it when I'm gonna do some range time. then when done i clean it and leave it dry. its NOT gonna fail dry. there will be NO issues. now if you use a thick grease, it will fail. use an oil, use too much, check your eyes. a carry gun doesn't need to be oiled to work. but if you just have to any light oil will work. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: here's an odd one for ya.... I run my carry dry. I oil it when I'm gonna do some range time. then when done i clean it and leave it dry. its NOT gonna fail dry. there will be NO issues. now if you use a thick grease, it will fail. use an oil, use too much, check your eyes. a carry gun doesn't need to be oiled to work. but if you just have to any light oil will work. Your carry sidearm should be relatively dry, if your using a polymer frame such as a M&P, Glock, Ect they need minimum lube anyway The reason I lube/grease is more a rust preventative measure more so than a matter of function. When it's summer in the dirty South, 100% humidity, and my sidearm is pressed against my body, I like to have some peace of mind |
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Lubriplate SFL-1 here. SFL-0 was too thin for me. Don't over think it man. Pick the NLGI grade grease (0-real thin, 1-thin, 2-thick, etc.) that makes you happy, then buy based on price. It really is just two pieces of metal rubbing against each other. The world figured that out long ago. No need for Space Shuttle Door Anti-Squeak $500 per ml stuff. Good luck. View Quote I slather it on thick, reassemble, cycle, field strip, and wipe off the excess. |
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Rule of lube.......if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it.
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The froglube paste has been working great, my guns feel lubed even after I wipe the paste off.
You absolutely have to remove all petro based lubes first, it will not play well with them. Or you can carry a glock, and not worry so much. I just shoot much better with anything but a glock. |
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As this thread and plenty of others like it demonstrate, there are plenty of weapon lubes out there that will work exceedingly well. Price is usually the only differing detail. Don't be a moron and pay $16 for a 2 oz. bottle of some touted wonder lube.
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I use SuperLube grease on carry pistols, it's inexpensive, works great, has no odor, is colorless, doesn't drip or run, and is hypoallergenic and even food safe rated.
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Quoted: I have changed over to grease recently. Mobil 1 synthetic works great but you have to keep an eye on dirt/fuzz build up as the grease seems to trap alot more than oil. Just wipe it down and regrease every few weeks and you shouldn't have any issues. View Quote |
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Lately I've been using white lithium grease on the end of the barrel, locking surfaces where it engages the slide, and the camming surfaces of the barrel lug and locking block. Then I use FP-10 or Slip2000 on the slide rails and any pivots that need some lube. This combo seems to be working well. No malfunctions whatsoever across multiple guns after doing things this way. Is it overthinking things? Maybe. But it seems to work well.
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I have been using tetra as well but I also use a little CLP. Grease the connector area and slide rails a bit. Everything else gets CLP.
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I use TW25B grease on the rails and barrels of all my steel and alloy framed pistols, carry gun or range toys, and Breakfree LP (not CLP) on the frame rails and barrels of my plastic carry guns.
My pistols exhibit very little wear, the lubricants stay put where they belong,the pistols provide excellent reliability, and I'm a high volume shooter and carry every day all day. IMO folks get into heated discussions over which lubes "are the best" and have become their favorites because there are so many excellent lubes out there to choose from these days. Technique when using any of the great lubes is more important than which of the products are used IMO. |
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I grease the rails on my Sig and oil the trigger, slide release, mag release buttons etc.
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... IMO folks get into heated discussions over which lubes "are the best" and have become their favorites because there are so many excellent lubes out there to choose from these days. Technique when using any of the great lubes is more important than which of the products are used IMO. View Quote This. Pretty much any high grade lubricant can protect for the rounds most guns will see between cleanings in the burbs. Pick the lube that stays in place best between range sessions IMO. Otherwisw, no need to spend big bucks, though neglect/abuse of a gun may require something more. |
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weapon shield grease on the rails, I clean my range gun 1x a year and shoot 30K of lead reloads and have no gun related stoppages.
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If you have a quality pistol, I like using lubes that are designed to be dry. Froglube, Seal1, Hornady One Shot TAP HD, etc.
Here is my reasoning: 1- no worry at all of the product running or evaporating. I know people who use light oils and they are re-oiling every week, and still having issues with oxidation in hot/humid months. 2- it stays were you put it and lasts nearly indefinitely. 3- no worry about the product running or rubbing onto your clothes. 4- no wet oil or grease to retain dirt, lint, grit, etc. |
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Quoted: Quoted: If you have a quality pistol, I like using lubes that are designed to be dry. Froglube, proven to gum up and slow down pistols |
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