Sorry about the pic quality, the sun is washing out some of the details. Once again, used a Draco-C as the base, and it is one of the handiest little carbines I've had that also packs a big punch. This is definitely going in the BOB. I was going to do another one as an underfolder, but I think I'm gonna just stay with these two.

Nice! Where did you get the folding stock from?

Thanks! I got the stock from these guys, but they're out of stock now and the prices went up:

http://www.czechpoint-usa.com/products/spare-parts-and-accessories/vz-58-parts-and-accessories/folding-stock-complete/

why does your Draco look longer than mine? Are there two different barrel sizes? mine's 11.75"

How did you attach the draco stock?  Tap and thread?

All Draco-C barrels are 11.5". Mine probably looks longer because the sights are set back farther and I have a booster on the end.

Drill and tap single hole and mill out top of trunnion for anti-rotational lug.

Cool thanks.  

How do you like the stock compared to the ACE stock you have?

Where are you getting all these krink parts at??

Build looks great!


D.

Looks like they went up about $15 or $20.

is that a krink break or a 105 booster?

Russian 105.

Awesome work. Please keeps us posted on your other Draco projects when you can. Cool name. You could also call it a Drinko.

I would love a tutorial on how you changed to the krink style top cover you changed the front trunnion right? I love the look of this and want to do rough the same thing.

No trunnion changes, just the rear sight block. I posted a rough tutorial in my previous thread but here it is again:

1. Locate a 5.45 Bulgarian/Russian AKS-74U rear hinge block (7.62 RHB's that K-Var has in stock will NOT work) and a AKS-74U receiver cover.
2. Drive out the barrel retaining pin in the front trunnion and then press out the barrel from the trunnion using a shop press.
3. Drive out the pins retaining the front sight/gas block combo and press it off with a shop press.
4. Drive out the pin retaining the rear sight block currently on the pistol and press it off with a shop press.
5. Using a set of calipers, measure the inside diameter of the new rear hinge block and the outside diameter of the barrel where the original rear sight block previously was.
6. Chuck the barrel up in a lathe and turn down the step in the barrel that the original rear sight block was located down to the proper diameter for a press fit of the new rear hinge block. This can also be done with a file, abrasive paper, and a ton of patience. But you have to be careful and check your fit constantly.
7. Reinstall the barrel in the trunnion using a shop press making sure to line up the cutout in the barrel for the barrel retaining pin.
8. Reinstall the barrel retaining pin using a shop press.
9. Install the new rear hinge block onto the barrel until the rear edge of the block aligns with the rear edge of the trunnion. Also, at this time you should make sure that the new block is perfectly straight and centered between the ears of the trunnion.
10. Using a screw machine bit (can't remember the size at the moment), use the pre-existing hole (or factory divot if the RHB is a virgin part) in the RHB and drill a new retaining pin hole through the barrel and install the pin.
11. Reinstall the front sight/gas block combo using a shop press. Make sure that the front sight is straight and true in relation to the rear hinge block and then reinstall the retaining pins. Also, if you are choosing to keep the handguard retaining cap make sure that you replace that onto the barrel first before you press on the FS/GB combo.
12. Install the gas tube retaining pin and spring into the RHB. Then install the new receiver cover and pin it in place. Take caution since the gas tube retaining pin is under spring tension.
13. Place two 1/4" ball bearings into the divots in the receiver cover hinge pin and flare them out with either a vise or a pair of large vise grips.
14. Reinstall the bolt/bolt carrier and recoil spring and cycle the action. If the carrier hangs up or is tight then you have to open up the hole in the RHB that the carrier travels through. Just take a Dremel with a large sanding drum and run it all around the inside of the hole until the carrier cycles smoothly.

Well that's pretty much it, everything else is just simple tweaking to get it all to work correctly. It is worth noting that once you do this conversion, the ONLY gas tube that will fit the weapon is either a standard Ultimak tube (there will be gaps) or a Yugo Ultimak that you trim to size. A standard AKM gas tube WILL NOT interface with the new RHB and a AKS-74U gas tube is way too small. Now I am going to try and make a gas tube that will fit this setup so that I can use wood handguards, but that's last on my list of projects at the moment.