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Posted: 3/31/2004 4:26:56 PM EDT
Pics will remain up. Many thanks to ARFCOM Member Gloftoe for hosting them!
Quib Rivet Removal: You will need a set of drill bits, also an automatic center punch helps. First center punch the rivet head, this gives your drill bit a place to start and keeps it from wondering off the top of the rivet or going crooked. Start with a small bit drilling down into the rivet head. Work your way up with progressively larger bits, if your dead center on the rivet head it should spin off. You can also use a chisel or pin punch to knock off the rivet head. Once the rivet head is off, start again with a small bit working up to progressively larger bits drilling into the rivet shank, GO SLOW AND STOP PERIODICALLY CHECKING YOUR DEPTH, DO NOT DRILL INTO THE BARREL!!!! As you drill out the rivet shank it will loosen up and begin to spin. I then took a 3/32 Craftsman pin punch and using a sanding disk in my DeWalt drill I ground the punch down into a makeshift chisel. With this makeshift chisel and a hammer I began to chop up the remnants of the rivet shank. To remove the remnants from between the barrel and trunnion I magnetized a metal scribe and fished out the pieces........you may choose to magnetize the punch just the same. Now your ready to tap your trunnions.        |
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Posted: 3/31/2004 7:00:26 PM EDT
[#1]
question: what the hell kindof signature is that? are you for real with this kerry thing?
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Posted: 3/31/2004 7:46:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Don't listen to talk radio much do ya! You haven't heard the sound bite of Kerry flip flopping on his voting record in congress. Quote: "I voted for the 58 billion, before I voted against it." I'm a G.W. Bush man through and through! |
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Posted: 3/31/2004 8:00:24 PM EDT
[#3]
a kerry fan?
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Posted: 4/1/2004 4:13:53 AM EDT
[#4]
Please..........I am in no way, shape or form a Kerry fan. It's a shame if you guys can't see the humor in that sig line and how it is actually AGAINST Kerry and mocks his flip flopping on issues.
Now back to AK's, this was never meant to be a political debate thread. Hope at least someone here appreciates this screw together build info I posted. Quib Proud Republican and G.W. Bush supporter! |
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Posted: 4/1/2004 4:25:06 AM EDT
[#5]
Good info concerning your build. The screw method is gaining much more of a following that it did just a short time ago. They are very secure and you have the ability to make adjustments as you go. Looks to be a good shooter too. I would agree that a red dot would make the whole rifle easier to shoot. Good job!
I think your signature is a clever one! |
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Posted: 4/1/2004 4:26:02 AM EDT
[#6]
Great post Quib. I'm going to build a screw-together AK soon and your info is just what I needed.
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Posted: 4/10/2004 3:34:18 PM EDT
[#7]
BTT. Not two weeks and pics are already down?
Can you please just post the pic(s) of trigger-guard installation? |
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Posted: 4/10/2004 4:53:37 PM EDT
[#8]
E-mail me those pics and I'll post them through the AR15 server.
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Posted: 4/10/2004 9:25:16 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks guys
 I'ma need these for reference. better save them 
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Posted: 4/10/2004 9:56:24 PM EDT
[#10]
They're working just fine now, maybe Hunt101 was down. If you need a specific pic IM me and I'll email it to you.
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Posted: 4/10/2004 10:16:20 PM EDT
[#11]
Pics not up here.... Might be working on yours because you already have them in your cache.
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Posted: 4/10/2004 10:18:23 PM EDT
[#12]
I tried to go directly to the pictures and got an error message that said "Too Many Connections".
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Posted: 4/11/2004 6:05:29 AM EDT
[#13]
Alright, Since Hunt101 seems to be down(alot), I've put em on my host (not hunt101)
EDIT: Deleted. |
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Posted: 5/6/2004 11:46:24 AM EDT
[#14]
I'm getting ready to do a build. Can you give a detailed desciption of the size of taps, drill bits and the different sizes of the button head screws you used.
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Posted: 5/6/2004 7:24:31 PM EDT
[#15]
It's all right there for the taking! Check out the build notes posted with each picture. Taps were 5 and 6mm, the tap package will recommend which drill bit size, don't remember off hand. The screws were of course 5 and 6mm. I purchased different lengths and ground them down to the correct size. |
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Posted: 5/7/2004 6:54:58 AM EDT
[#16]
I wrote a long reply, but site crapped out and it didn't post.
Anyways, get #8-32, 5x1.0mm, and 6x1.0mm taps and bottoming taps Alternetavely, you can use #10-24 and #1/4-28 screws on the front and rear trunions. Screws should have 1/4 inch long shanks (this length, theyll all fit fine with the ones in the front needing some grinding down). #8-32 nuts (the plain, thin type), and use that on the screw on the back of the trigger guard with the screws head filed down 1/16" for better clearance of the selector lever. Also, file/mill/grind the selector stop plate down so thar those two sections on either side on the side which doesn't touch the receiver are either flush or almost flush with the center. This, on OOW receiver atleast, is a requirement otherwise the mag won't feed well at all. ETA: for drill bits, just get a 115pc. drill bit index. search on froogle, there are nice titanium ones around for under 30 buks. |
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Posted: 5/7/2004 2:37:43 PM EDT
[#17]
You should really gage the holes in the trunnion to see exactly which tap would be best for your rifle. Drill and tap charts can be found on line. If I had not gaged each hole seperate I whould have never known the forward holes in the forward trunnion were actually larger than the rest.
I dug up the taps used in my build, the following is what the packages recommend: 6mm tap=#8 or 5mm bit 5mm tap= #19 or 4.2mm bit 8-32 tap= #29 bit It's not necessary to purchase regular and bottom taps. I simply started the threads with the standard tap then ground down the tip of the tap with a sanding disc, converting the tap into a bottoming tap to finish off the threads. Saves a few bucks! |
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Posted: 5/23/2004 10:41:44 PM EDT
[#18]
very cool, thank you!
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Posted: 6/14/2004 12:01:18 AM EDT
[#19]
that came out real nice
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Posted: 6/14/2004 12:16:52 AM EDT
[#20]
This interests me greatly....
I got a receiver from Global Trades at a local gunshow last month, and mentioned the "screw-together" method. The guy from GT told me that it was dangerous, that it hasn't been proven safe, if it were better/safe then why aren't any AKs ever built that way, etc. Mentioned to imagine what would happen if the screws failed, and the bolt flew back or somesuch. What say the experts in here? I'm sure he was just trying to sell me a rivet set or something, but it did get me thinking. Last thing I want is an AK bolt carrier stuck in my forehead. And would the screw-together work okay with the 1.6mm receivers from GT? thanks! |
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Posted: 6/14/2004 6:43:00 AM EDT
[#21]
That's the reason why I did a lot of research and asking of questions here first before I invested in my build. I too was concerned about the strength of the screws and the weapon literally coming apart on me. I don't have the data anymore, but I have in a thread here somewhere a chart showing the shear strength of these screws. You must use quality, industrial grade screws. These screws have a very high shear strength. And in the application they are used, if one was to fail, this is how it would fail, by the receiver working at the screw shank and shearing off the screw head. The screws have a larger diameter than the rivets! Would you worry about a 5mm screw shearing loose from the receiver before a 1/8th rivet would? And look at the bearing surface the rivet head has on the receiver compared to the bearing surface of a 5 or 6mm button head cap screw! It must be double if not triple! I’m not saying screw builds are equal to traditional rivet builds, but I do not have a problem shooting mine and feel perfectly safe doing so. Others have built AK’s using the screw method on FA registered weapons with no reported failures, and others have thousands of rounds down range on semi-auto versions with the same results. Plus.......in a worst case scenario, if the screws were to loosen up or shear, it would not be all at once. I believe the rear trunnion has the most stress during firing, so I hope you would be smart enough to notice the loosening up of the stock and trunnion and cease firing to investigate! I’ve been an aircraft mechanic for 19 years, I feel confident enough in my mechanical abilities that I felt I could successfully build a safe AK74 using the screw method. The choice is up to you. If someone knows of an incident where a screw together AK came apart during firing I’d love to hear about it, please post it here for all to read! Quib |
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Posted: 6/18/2004 7:57:17 PM EDT
[#22]
You got me thinking now...I am looking for my 3rd. AK (AK74 actually) and this could be the time for a Do yourself project. I do not see how a rivet can be any stronger or safer than a machine screw, I think rivets are cheaper and easy to use at mass production assembly lines, that is the reason what they are used.
Now I have a project for this summer. Nice rifle by the way. Thanks Bro. Black_rifle |
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Posted: 6/19/2004 6:25:29 PM EDT
[#23]
Where do you get the quality screws - want to be sure that I get good quality.
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Posted: 6/24/2004 5:38:48 PM EDT
[#24]
I might have to try this, I may be trading for a parts kit AK47.
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Posted: 6/24/2004 6:20:09 PM EDT
[#25]
Doesn't make much difference. Worst case scenario you'll end up replacing them (not a problem as they're sold either by the hundred or by the pound, depending who you buy from). www.use-enco.com is a good place for this kind of stuff. It's owned by MSC Direct, and IIRC is their discount distributor. |
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Posted: 6/27/2004 6:17:12 PM EDT
[#26]
I did not see how you transfered the trunnion hole patterns to the receiver. Is it dificult to drill the receiver due to it being hardened?
Thanks, Mike |
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Posted: 6/27/2004 6:37:09 PM EDT
[#27]
not at all.
In my case, a template I'd printed out matched the hole pattern perfectly, so I used that! |
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Posted: 6/27/2004 8:55:09 PM EDT
[#28]
I transfered the holes from the old receiver to the new receiver by mating them up side by side. There was a thread around here about transfering the holes. One suggestion I made was to do a rubbing of the trunnion then lay this rubbing over the receiver and center punch through the paper into the metal. Drilling the holes is not a problem if you use good quality bits. |
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Posted: 6/27/2004 9:09:38 PM EDT
[#29]
You can also get them from your local hardware store... Ace in my area goes up to grade 10 in metric screws, if a gun can break that it will eat riviets too... |
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Posted: 7/19/2004 12:45:58 PM EDT
[#30]
Looks sweet. I think I need another AK.
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Posted: 7/22/2004 7:20:46 PM EDT
[#31]
I am having trouble figuring out how to remove the 4 rivets in the front trunion. Any suggestions?
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Posted: 7/22/2004 8:51:47 PM EDT
[#32]
Welcome to the board... Now please just look around the threads, possibly a few pages back.. In short, drill through the rivet with a tiny bit, then go up and up through the bit #'s until all that's left is a thin shell of the rivet. as soon as it spins freely with the next size bit, you can pull it out easily. |
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Posted: 7/28/2004 5:34:16 AM EDT
[#33]
this is interesting....
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Posted: 8/9/2004 8:51:10 AM EDT
[#34]
tagged as 9/14 is comming and many of us have kits waiting for this all important day!
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Posted: 9/7/2004 5:58:49 AM EDT
[#35]
Where do you guys get your button head screws for this? I went to my local Hardware "Superstore" and I didn't find these screws....
Also, anything special to look for when getting the screws! I have want to try this with an AMD-65 kit that I have that still has the barrel pressed.... Thanks! |
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Posted: 9/7/2004 5:07:51 PM EDT
[#36]
I picked up my screws at Ace Hardware. I used to have screw grade info posted, you might find it if you do a search. Try Google, thats how I found it, you want good quality screws with high shear strength. |
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Posted: 9/12/2004 10:52:55 AM EDT
[#37]
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Posted: 9/18/2004 7:32:36 AM EDT
[#38]
Just bought 2 AMD-65 kits from Centerfire Systems (www.centerfiresystems.com). I bought their $99 kits, which were BRAND NEW guns. The $79 kits had a few rounds through them and had been carried. For $20 more I went new. Luckily I am local to them so I could see kits first handhave OOW receiver. Your screw build seems to be the way to go! Nice build!
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Posted: 9/18/2004 6:30:47 PM EDT
[#39]
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Posted: 9/20/2004 7:35:04 AM EDT
[#40]
A riveted job will be tighter and more rigid than a screwed and bolted job which has meaning in full auto fire where a lot of shock & vibration is involved. If you reamed the holes to a size & the bolts would be almost a press fit, loosening would be minimized . Use aviation grade or grade eight fasteners
with all metal locknuts if you bolt it together using the appropriate torque for the fastener. Bolting through reamed to size holes is especially important through the trunnion-to -receiver fit and the guide rails. You are not likely to break the high strength bolts as they are stronger than the ductle rivets but you will see loosening up after a bit of firing so check the gun for loosening at front and rear trunnions. |
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Posted: 9/28/2004 4:56:05 PM EDT
[#41]
O.K. I have decided to try this also. (Wish me luck)
Thanks to you guys and the great info given here I am using the OOW recevier, Tapco AMD-65 kit with compliance parts, and use the screw method to connect the trunion. My question is will using one of the grades of Loctite help stabilize the screws in the trunion? Also when I get ready to finish this project, In my case I am going to teflon it, would you guys suggest tefloning it with the receiver assembled to the truinion or teflon it seperate and assemble afterword? |
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Posted: 9/28/2004 5:05:36 PM EDT
[#42]
I have not started yet but I will be doing the same basic build. I have all the parts ordered. My plan is to fit/assemble everything, test fire, finish just the receiver and anything else that needs it, and then re-assemble and loctite it together with blue loctite. I have heard that loctite will do a fine job, but regardless it's a good idea to check for looseness periodically. If it becomes a problem then I may upgrade to red loctite. |
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Posted: 10/1/2004 9:26:51 AM EDT
[#43]
If you would like to follow my progress check out my web journal on my AK project.
http://www.kf3.org/~jim/AKProject/index.html I am trying to make it as detailed as I can. Hey guys be kind. This is my first build and I am SURE I will make some mistakes. |
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Posted: 10/13/2004 5:26:11 AM EDT
[#44]
Well my project is on indefinate hold since without informing me TAPCO failed to ship my kit. When I called 10 days later they told me they had run out of the kits and would not be restocking them.
Needless to say this has left me with bad feelings toward Tapco for not informing me when I orderd and failing to contact me when they knew they could not fill the order. While I doubt I will deal with Tapco again they were the only source I could find for some of the compliance parts so my whole project is probably going to be scraped. I am sorry for those of you that had emailed me about the website but unless I find a cost effective alternative for the parts I was getting from Tapco (American made FCG, gas piston, etc...) The project is done. |
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Posted: 10/25/2004 4:43:32 PM EDT
[#46]
I am getting very close to done with my pistol screw build and I have been documenting the progress with pictures and a writeup. Email me for a link. I don't want to post it publicly yet because it's sitting on my machine at home and not on a real host so I don't want people sucking my bandwidth, but I would like someone to review it for me.
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Posted: 10/26/2004 8:32:36 PM EDT
[#47]
Whats the deal with none of the pictures showing up?
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Posted: 10/27/2004 7:30:58 PM EDT
[#48]
Some one not to long ago took my pics and instructions and was selling them, so I pulled them down. |
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Posted: 10/27/2004 8:08:51 PM EDT
[#49]
Leave it up to one asshole to screw it up for everyone else. I hope you don't mind, but I copied all of the pics and instructions for my personal use. |
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Posted: 10/27/2004 9:38:20 PM EDT
[#50]
Man, now I'm kinda sorry I pointed that out. When I put my page up for general consumption I plan to make the images more or less unstealable (e.g. fill everything nonessential to the pic with "Not for reuse" and "If you areseeing this naywhere other than <url> this image has been stolen. Please email <me>")
If anyone wants to see *my* pics, let me know and I can give you a link... if you promise not to share until I say it's okay. |
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