I plan on washing and cleaning the bolt carrier and parts in a small pan with a brush and wanted to know what would be best to use: slip2000 carbon killer or break free?or both.
I hope to buy at least a gallon size to use. Suggestions would be a great help. Thanks

There are a number of different techniques for cleaning bolts and carriers and I'm not saying that there's anything wrong with the method you proposed.  People do do it that way.  But I don't like that method because it uses too much cleaning solution, and then you have to have some way to store partially used up solution.  And in the meantime, it takes up storage space in the shed (or wherever you're going to keep the "slop bucket" and it stinks and it constitutes a fire hazard, etc, etc.

The way I clean a bolt and carrier is before I leave the firing range, I put a few drops of CLP into the exhaust ports of the bolt carrier and work the bolt back and forth a few times.  While I'm heading home from the firing range, the CLP has time to soften the deposits in the carrier and on the tail of the bolt.

When I get home, I strip the bolt carrier and add some more CLP to the carrier and start wiping down the various parts.
I use a nylon brush (the kind with two brushes; a "little" one and a "big" one) and scrub out the bolt carrier.  If there are any stubborn deposits on the bolt or in the carrier, I scrub them with a small piece of plastic kitchen pan scrubber dipped in a little bit of CLP or Hoppes #9; still using the nylon brush.  Wipe the parts again with a cleaning patch (I like to use .38 cal./.45 cal. cleaning patches for this) or rag.  And then I'm done.

This method is far more economical with solution and everything that gets used gets thrown out in the trash.

This is how I used to clean my BCG. When time permits I’ll do a write up on my current method.

I first started out field stripping my BCG and dropping it into a mixture of Hoppes #9 and mineral spirits. While this method does smell (Hoppes gives me a horrible headache regardless of how  much ventilation I have.) it does a very good job at softening up carbon and cleaning away contaminated oils. For those  claiming it uses too much cleaning solution , that is why I thin it with mineral spirits.



As far as storage goes, I kept my solution in an old glass jar. It takes up no space, keeps the solvent air tight and allows the particles suspended in the solvent time to settle to the bottom of the jar during storage and ready for the next cleaning session. When your ready for your next session you simply pour off your clean solution from the top of your jar into your cleaning container (I use an old baby wet wipe box.) and leave the residue at the bottom of the glass. A quick wipe with a paper towel has the glass clean again and ready for storage.  When finished cleaning, I start the storage cycle all over again.

If the Hoppes/mineral spirits solution is extremely dirty after cleaning then I have on occasion poured the solution through a coffee filter placed into a funnel which is then placed into my glass jar. I’ll leave the funnel/filter in the jar and let the solution filter through.

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Quoted: This is how I used to clean my BCG. When time permits I’ll do a write up on my current method. I first started out field stripping my BCG and dropping it into a mixture of Hoppes #9 and mineral spirits. While this method does smell (Hoppes gives me a horrible headache regardless of how  much ventilation I have.) it does a very good job at softening up carbon and cleaning away contaminated oils. For those  claiming it uses too much cleaning solution , that is why I thin it with mineral spirits. img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/Boltcleaning.jpg As far as storage goes, I kept my solution in an old glass jar. It takes up no space, keeps the solvent air tight and allows the particles suspended in the solvent time to settle to the bottom of the jar during storage and ready for the next cleaning session. When your ready for your next session you simply pour off your clean solution from the top of your jar into your cleaning container (I use an old baby wet wipe box.) and leave the residue at the bottom of the glass. A quick wipe with a paper towel has the glass clean again and ready for storage.  When finished cleaning, I start the storage cycle all over again. If the Hoppes/mineral spirits solution is extremely dirty after cleaning then I have on occasion poured the solution through a coffee filter placed into a funnel which is then placed into my glass jar. I’ll leave the funnel/filter in the jar and let the solution filter through.

I thank you for this info, this would be a less exspensive way to clean and I like to give it a try sounds like it cleans good. Just wipe and put alittle clp when done right.I guess you use the hoppes labeled for semi auto.

rEGULAR OLD HOPES WILL WORK JUST FINE ON ar PARTS.

Ask 10 people, get 10 different answers.

I like to use two products for cleaning and one for lubing.  

Milcom MC25 Spray cleaner.  Two blasts or so and wipe of floating/suspended gunk with a shop towel (SLIP makes a similar product, 725 Cleaner/Degreaser).  

Next, soak carrier in SLIP 2000 Carbon Cutter.  10-15 minutes.  This takes care of about 98% of the built up carbon, and unless you're pretty anal, you can declare victory at this stage.  Otherwise do some light brushing to take care of any minute remaining crud.  Follow with a quick wipe down.

Lastly, lube with a good CLP -- FP-10, SLIP 2000, the new Weapon Shield or just use a dedicated lube -- TW-25B, Eezox, whatever.

The main thing I've come to like about my approach is there's little work on my part; a spray, a quick wipe, a soak (during which time I tend to the upper/barrel and FCG), and a 2nd quick wipe down and then an application of lube.  It's pretty simple.

Quoted: I guess you use the hoppes labeled for semi auto.

Quoted: rEGULAR OLD HOPES WILL WORK JUST FINE ON ar PARTS.

Yep, just plain old Hoppes #9.

Quib, Thanks for that awesome detailed reply with photos, I like your detail to cleaning and your procedure. I also like the idea to hoppes of BF products. I looked at the other ideas like slip and other degreaser but my opinion is they all say to wash the product with water after your cleaning, My opinion is I would never introduce water to my firearm, even if I wipe them down and lub them, I just don't like the idea of washing with water. That's why I will follow the hoppes way that Quib is saying.

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Quoted: height=8 Quoted: Quib, Thanks for that awesome detailed reply with photos, I like your detail to cleaning and your procedure. I also like the idea to hoppes of BF products. I looked at the other ideas like slip and other degreaser but my opinion is they all say to wash the product with water after your cleaning, My opinion is I would never introduce water to my firearm, even if I wipe them down and lub them, I just don't like the idea of washing with water. That's why I will follow the hoppes way that Quib is saying. Your welcome.  her Water for example could get trapped in places you can’t reach like the bolts ejector and ejector spring pocket, eventually corroding the ejector assembly.

That's exactly my thinking, that's the reason why I want to stay with BF or hoppes type cleaner. Again thanks for all the great input and detailed pictures.

Quoted: Again thanks for all the great input and detailed pictures.

Your welcome.  

A “thank you” means a lot to me. It can sometimes be very time consuming and labor intensive…writing, taking pictures, editing and hosting photo tutorials here in the M&C forum.

It’s always nice to know my efforts are appreciated.

Quoted: Quoted: Quib, Thanks for that awesome detailed reply with photos, I like your detail to cleaning and your procedure. I also like the idea to hoppes of BF products. I looked at the other ideas like slip and other degreaser but my opinion is they all say to wash the product with water after your cleaning, My opinion is I would never introduce water to my firearm, even if I wipe them down and lub them, I just don't like the idea of washing with water. That's why I will follow the hoppes way that Quib is saying. I’m not crazy either about using water to clean my rifles. If they get wet during use then so be it. That’s why we have PMCS. But to subject them to water each time I clean them? No thanks.

That's why you wipe it down when it comes out of the soak.  And once you apply lube (even down in the ejector), it displaces whatever minute water might be there.

Again, not the only way, but "a way".  Everyone has their own routine.  I would recommend if you go with the CLP soak route, to wear latex gloves.  Prolonged skin exposure to CLP solvents is not too good for the skin.

Quoted: That's why you wipe it down when it comes out of the soak.  And once you apply lube (even down in the ejector), it displaces whatever minute water might be there.

That’s fine if you really feel your getting to all the moisture. It’s your rifle.

Quoted: Again, not the only way, but "a way".  Everyone has their own routine.

Absolutely correct. We all have our methods. If the question arises I will post my methods and my reasoning behind those methods.  I will also post the tools used to carry out my methods, and the end results. But I never criticize the methods used by others. Again, it’s your rifle.

Quoted: I would recommend if you go with the CLP soak route, to wear latex gloves.  Prolonged skin exposure to CLP solvents is not too good for the skin.

Good advice, gloves are always recommended when working with solvents. And as an aircraft mechanic and inspector for the past 22+ years I’m very familiar with the use of PPE while working with chemicals.

I retrieve my parts from the CLP soak with surgeons forceps, so I’m not too concerned with excessive exposure to CLP. My method exposes me to no more CLP than normal cleaning and lubing. When I used the Hoppes/mineral spirits bath, then yes I used chemical resistant gloves and ventilated my shop.

Do you re-use the Break Free CLP in the container that has the bolt and firing pin or do you use a fresh batch of CLP every time you clean the bolt and firing pin?



Re-read the original posting above.  Question answered.

I do something similar to QUIB.  I take an old tupperware container, put bolt and carrier in it, spray it with BF, and let it sit while I clean the rest of my rifle.  Then I come back and scrub the BCG.  Wipe it off, lube it, and it's good to.

Quoted: Do you re-use the Break Free CLP in the container that has the bolt and firing pin or do you use a fresh batch of CLP every time you clean the bolt and firing pin? Re-read the original posting above.  Question answered.

Yes, the CLP is stored in the container and reused.

I use Ed's Red and slather it on with a nylon GI brush. It cuts the power and carbon build up real well and provides lubrication. When done scrubbing I put on a coat of CLP or Rem Oil and call it good I got tired of buying expensive cleaning products when I can make up a batch (1 gallon) of Ed's for less then $5

Hey QUIB, whats the ratio of mineral spirits to Hoppes #9?    

Thanks

Shaun

Shaun,

No real “ mix ratio”.

I started out with about a 50/50 mix. If your purchased the typical small jar from WalMart then added two similar sized jars of mineral spirits you’d be fine. I never experimented though with different “mix ratios”.

where can you get an aluminum scraper like the one pictured?

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Quoted: Shaun, No real “ mix ratio”. I started out with about a 50/50 mix. If your purchased the typical small jar from WalMart then added two similar sized jars of mineral spirits you’d be fine. I never experimented though with different “mix ratios”.

Thanks. I was thinking 75% hoppes, 25% mineral spirits. But 50/50 sounds good too.

Quoted: where can you get an aluminum scraper like the one pictured?

I made it from an old section of aluminum cleaning rod, which I flattened and shaped with a file. The handle is an old X-acto knife handle.

Having used up all my Shooters Choice bore cleaner,
I decided to try Sweets 7.62 bore Cleaner on a recommendation.

SWEET'S has 5% ammonia - WOW!!  NOXIOUS STUFF! Consistency was jel like -

Anyway, Sweets did work fast for bore cleaning -but the smell is just overpowering!

I decided to use the Sweets solvent on the bolt - the carbon just melted off!

One application, perhaps  2-3 seconds with a bronze brush - BRANDY NEW!

QUESTION:
For those that are familiar with Sweets,
any problem using it on parts other than the bore?

TIA
Docgary