Posted: 8/30/2016 10:24:25 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote History Quoted:
The technical answer to whether or not you "need" an adjustable gas block is no. You can get the rifle tuned in other ways. The simpler answer is that the gas block is the easiest, and often cheaper way, to tune the system.
Those comments you mention should be saying "a mil-spec AR" doesn't need those parts. Stoner's original design works because it was tested and proven. However, when we start fooling around with different specs is where we alter the timings related to the original design. Just look back to when the original system was fielded by the military, and the problems that they had because they used a different powder in the ammunition than what Stoner developed the system with. When we start throwing in commercial ammunition that isn't mil-spec, different barrel and gas lengths, various bolt carrier mass, buffer mass, etc. things can get out of balance from that original design. This is where the Adjustable gas block helps you tune the rifle to bring all of that into balance. It isn't just because of the DI system, or just gas operated systems that suffer from this, either. HK's roller lock system had growing pains every time ammunition was changed, as well. Now you can get rollers and locking pieces of various dimensions to tune that system.
If you already have a bin full of various weight buffers and bolt carriers, then the adjustable gas block will be an added expense. If you don't already have a bin of parts like that, then the gas block will save you from having to buy one. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quote History Quoted:
Quoted:
I am building an 11.5" carbine in 5.56. Gun will usually be run suppressed. I can't give you a percentage, because I probably wont run classes suppressed all the time, but shooting at my ranch will always be suppressed. Do I really need an adjustable gas block? Should I just deal with the little extra gas in the face? I don't have an adjustable gas block on my 16" middy, but I wasn't sure if it would be necessary on a SBR for some reason. I've read some comments about "a properly built AR will run fine with any ammo and suppressed/unsuppressed without [fill in the blank part name]" while doing research, so thought I would check in here. Leaning towards a govnah if I do get an adjustable one. Thanks for any insight.
The technical answer to whether or not you "need" an adjustable gas block is no. You can get the rifle tuned in other ways. The simpler answer is that the gas block is the easiest, and often cheaper way, to tune the system.
Those comments you mention should be saying "a mil-spec AR" doesn't need those parts. Stoner's original design works because it was tested and proven. However, when we start fooling around with different specs is where we alter the timings related to the original design. Just look back to when the original system was fielded by the military, and the problems that they had because they used a different powder in the ammunition than what Stoner developed the system with. When we start throwing in commercial ammunition that isn't mil-spec, different barrel and gas lengths, various bolt carrier mass, buffer mass, etc. things can get out of balance from that original design. This is where the Adjustable gas block helps you tune the rifle to bring all of that into balance. It isn't just because of the DI system, or just gas operated systems that suffer from this, either. HK's roller lock system had growing pains every time ammunition was changed, as well. Now you can get rollers and locking pieces of various dimensions to tune that system.
If you already have a bin full of various weight buffers and bolt carriers, then the adjustable gas block will be an added expense. If you don't already have a bin of parts like that, then the gas block will save you from having to buy one.
I don't have any of those parts. I was under the impression the most efficient way to tune the rifle for shooting unsuppressed/suppressed was an adjustable gas block instead of trading out bcg and buffers until it ran well. A simple flick on the govnah when I take the can off should make it run just as well as it did in suppressed mode, theoretically, right?
How much effort does it take to actually tune these plates for an adjustable GB? Does it require a drill press and extreme precision or can I bring a cordless drill and a C clamp to the range and bore out the holes appropriately there?
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