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Posted: 11/24/2015 7:20:39 AM EDT
[#1]
The typical drill press as you state does not like side loading. That said you can still use one, you will need to be patient and go slowly with vertical cuts. Use horizontal loads
only for very small removal during clean up. A file will still be needed for fine tuning and aesthetics. It can be done. If in router you mean a woodworking router, even one that has adjustable speeds would be to fast to safely mill the aluminum. |
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Posted: 11/24/2015 8:28:35 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The typical drill press as you state does not like side loading. That said you can still use one, you will need to be patient and go slowly with vertical cuts. Use horizontal loads only for very small removal during clean up. A file will still be needed for fine tuning and aesthetics. It can be done. If in router you mean a woodworking router, even one that has adjustable speeds would be to fast to safely mill the aluminum. oh yeah? is this the first time you've been on the internet this year? |
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Posted: 11/24/2015 1:14:34 PM EDT
[#3]
Finishing off an 80% lower with a router is very doable with the proper jig. There are at least two mfg who sell jigs specifically for this purpose. One of which can be found in the industry section of this forum.
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Posted: 11/24/2015 2:41:18 PM EDT
[#4]
I have the jig for it, and the lower all drilled out to be routered.
Just cant find the time to do it...  |
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Posted: 11/24/2015 3:28:58 PM EDT
[#5]
I used a modulus jig and bits.
Came out nice. Just use a good router |
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Posted: 11/24/2015 4:07:41 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I used a modulus jig and bits. Came out nice. Just use a good router |
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Posted: 11/24/2015 4:24:33 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: oh yeah? is this the first time you've been on the internet this year? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: The typical drill press as you state does not like side loading. That said you can still use one, you will need to be patient and go slowly with vertical cuts. Use horizontal loads only for very small removal during clean up. A file will still be needed for fine tuning and aesthetics. It can be done. If in router you mean a woodworking router, even one that has adjustable speeds would be to fast to safely mill the aluminum. oh yeah? is this the first time you've been on the internet this year? Why did this make me so lol!?   |
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Posted: 11/24/2015 5:54:13 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you use a variable speed router? It is highly recommended. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 3:13:26 AM EDT
[#9]
I own a variable speed woodworking router and it would be way way to fast to machine a lower. And how about the safety selector, trigger and hammer pin holes? Have fun trying that with a router with precision and not tearing up your jig. I used my drill press and an XY vise. Works flawlessly. As said before side load very slowly with very little pressure. I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill bit in my drill press. Get an XY vise from harbor freight as I did for like $60. Holds it all there in the jig nice and snug and allows you to move it around with crank handles. Take your time. I would not recommend a router.
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Posted: 11/29/2015 11:07:36 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I own a variable speed woodworking router and it would be way way to fast to machine a lower. And how about the safety selector, trigger and hammer pin holes? Have fun trying that with a router with precision and not tearing up your jig. I used my drill press and an XY vise. Works flawlessly. As said before side load very slowly with very little pressure. I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill bit in my drill press. Get an XY vise from harbor freight as I did for like $60. Holds it all there in the jig nice and snug and allows you to move it around with crank handles. Take your time. I would not recommend a router. you really should research what you're talking about before you show that you have no clue of what you're talking about. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 12:54:37 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I own a variable speed woodworking router and it would be way way to fast to machine a lower. And how about the safety selector, trigger and hammer pin holes? Have fun trying that with a router with precision and not tearing up your jig. I used my drill press and an XY vise. Works flawlessly. As said before side load very slowly with very little pressure. I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill bit in my drill press. Get an XY vise from harbor freight as I did for like $60. Holds it all there in the jig nice and snug and allows you to move it around with crank handles. Take your time. I would not recommend a router. If you go for a full depth cut yeah it's not recommended. Considering pretty much EVERY jig manufacture now makes a router plate for their jig, or designed it to be used with a router, your "feeling" and "opinion" are incorrect. Side loading a drill press to do this, while do-able, is probably the least preferred method. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 1:00:58 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I own a variable speed woodworking router and it would be way way to fast to machine a lower. And how about the safety selector, trigger and hammer pin holes? Have fun trying that with a router with precision and not tearing up your jig. I used my drill press and an XY vise. Works flawlessly. As said before side load very slowly with very little pressure. I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill bit in my drill press. Get an XY vise from harbor freight as I did for like $60. Holds it all there in the jig nice and snug and allows you to move it around with crank handles. Take your time. I would not recommend a router. From your post it is obvious that you have absolutely no idea how a router based jig even works. A router is specifically designed to cut latterly and a drill press is not. The chuck/quill/spindle assembly of a drill press is just pressed together and can come apart at any time when side loaded. There are many posts on the firearm forums of them coming apart when trying to use as a mill. The other problem when using a drill press is overcoming the chatter. You will never get as nice of a finished product with a drill press, the router finish will always be smoother. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 9:14:54 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
From your post it is obvious that you have absolutely no idea how a router based jig even works. A router is specifically designed to cut latterly and a drill press is not. The chuck/quill/spindle assembly of a drill press is just pressed together and can come apart at any time when side loaded. There are many posts on the firearm forums of them coming apart when trying to use as a mill. The other problem when using a drill press is overcoming the chatter. You will never get as nice of a finished product with a drill press, the router finish will always be smoother. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I own a variable speed woodworking router and it would be way way to fast to machine a lower. And how about the safety selector, trigger and hammer pin holes? Have fun trying that with a router with precision and not tearing up your jig. I used my drill press and an XY vise. Works flawlessly. As said before side load very slowly with very little pressure. I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill bit in my drill press. Get an XY vise from harbor freight as I did for like $60. Holds it all there in the jig nice and snug and allows you to move it around with crank handles. Take your time. I would not recommend a router. From your post it is obvious that you have absolutely no idea how a router based jig even works. A router is specifically designed to cut latterly and a drill press is not. The chuck/quill/spindle assembly of a drill press is just pressed together and can come apart at any time when side loaded. There are many posts on the firearm forums of them coming apart when trying to use as a mill. The other problem when using a drill press is overcoming the chatter. You will never get as nice of a finished product with a drill press, the router finish will always be smoother. I can see using a quality router for multiple passes to remove lots of material - you'd do that when working on wood. So are the commonly available jigs designed to be used with a woodworking router? When I researched this about a year an a half ago, I never saw anything about routers. |
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Posted: 11/29/2015 10:15:25 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
While you didn't say it too sweetly, at least your post explains why a woodworking router can work for this task. Everybody else just called the guy names... I had never heard of using a woodworking router for finishing an 80% lower until now; not knowing something that someone else knows doesn't make a person stupid, just uninformed. I can see using a quality router for multiple passes to remove lots of material - you'd do that when working on wood. So are the commonly available jigs designed to be used with a woodworking router? When I researched this about a year an a half ago, I never saw anything about routers. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I own a variable speed woodworking router and it would be way way to fast to machine a lower. And how about the safety selector, trigger and hammer pin holes? Have fun trying that with a router with precision and not tearing up your jig. I used my drill press and an XY vise. Works flawlessly. As said before side load very slowly with very little pressure. I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill bit in my drill press. Get an XY vise from harbor freight as I did for like $60. Holds it all there in the jig nice and snug and allows you to move it around with crank handles. Take your time. I would not recommend a router. From your post it is obvious that you have absolutely no idea how a router based jig even works. A router is specifically designed to cut latterly and a drill press is not. The chuck/quill/spindle assembly of a drill press is just pressed together and can come apart at any time when side loaded. There are many posts on the firearm forums of them coming apart when trying to use as a mill. The other problem when using a drill press is overcoming the chatter. You will never get as nice of a finished product with a drill press, the router finish will always be smoother. I can see using a quality router for multiple passes to remove lots of material - you'd do that when working on wood. So are the commonly available jigs designed to be used with a woodworking router? When I researched this about a year an a half ago, I never saw anything about routers. no one called anyone any names. we simply said the person(s) need to research it like everyone else did/does. that is how we learned. |
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Posted: 11/30/2015 1:05:55 AM EDT
[#15]
In lieu of a variable speed router, a router speed control can be purchased for about 25 bucks that will do the same thing. That, and a foot pedal make a great combination.
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Posted: 11/30/2015 3:26:40 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
... So are the commonly available jigs designed to be used with a woodworking router? When I researched this about a year an a half ago, I never saw anything about routers. There are two jigs available that are specifically designed to be router jigs from the ground up one of which (modulus) can be found in the industry forum here. There are a couple of others who now offer router adapters as an afterthought/add on. |
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Posted: 11/30/2015 5:02:35 PM EDT
[#17]
I already thought I was pretty clear. What I meant was:
Has anyone actually made a mounting device for a router that anchors it in a fixture so you can have a table for an xy vise, and use it as a "mill"? I already know about routers and 80% finishing. |
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Posted: 11/30/2015 5:08:29 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I already thought I was pretty clear. What I meant was: Has anyone actually made a mounting device for a router that anchors it in a fixture so you can have a table for an xy vise, and use it as a "mill"? I already know about routers and 80% finishing. Basically a poor man's mill. But dedicated to 80%ers Interesting. Maybe a DIY vertical version of the ghostgunner. Check youtube for "DIY CNC Router" I'm moble, but I bet you get some good resulrs. Throw in "Arduino" too |
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Posted: 11/30/2015 7:54:57 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
no one called anyone any names. we simply said the person(s) need to research it like everyone else did/does. that is how we learned. I exaggerated. Edited..... |
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Posted: 12/1/2015 12:52:28 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you really should research what you're talking about before you show that you have no clue of what you're talking about. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I own a variable speed woodworking router and it would be way way to fast to machine a lower. And how about the safety selector, trigger and hammer pin holes? Have fun trying that with a router with precision and not tearing up your jig. I used my drill press and an XY vise. Works flawlessly. As said before side load very slowly with very little pressure. I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill bit in my drill press. Get an XY vise from harbor freight as I did for like $60. Holds it all there in the jig nice and snug and allows you to move it around with crank handles. Take your time. I would not recommend a router. you really should research what you're talking about before you show that you have no clue of what you're talking about. I think it's the second post in this thread.... see it? It questions the use of a...... Wait for it...... A WOODWORKING ROUTER!!!!!! That's what I responded to so chill the hell out, try not being so thoughtlessly insulting! I respond to exactly what I read. A woodworking router would be a bad idea..... Duh. Maybe if I clicked quote instead of reply it would have prevented the menstration. |
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Posted: 12/1/2015 12:55:42 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you really should research what you're talking about before you show that you have no clue of what you're talking about. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I own a variable speed woodworking router and it would be way way to fast to machine a lower. And how about the safety selector, trigger and hammer pin holes? Have fun trying that with a router with precision and not tearing up your jig. I used my drill press and an XY vise. Works flawlessly. As said before side load very slowly with very little pressure. I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill bit in my drill press. Get an XY vise from harbor freight as I did for like $60. Holds it all there in the jig nice and snug and allows you to move it around with crank handles. Take your time. I would not recommend a router. you really should research what you're talking about before you show that you have no clue of what you're talking about. I didn't mention the correct type of router to use as I have not finished an 80% lower that way. I HAVE with my drill press however, didn't chatter as majority of it was vertical cutting. My finish passes ( side loading) didn't chatter, took my time, didn't do it dry, and it's nice and smooth in there. I also thought that drilling the trigger pin, hammer pin, and safety selector holes would be way easier and more precise with my drill press. I maintain that opinion. Perhaps the best way is a router AND a drill press in conjunction with each other, short of a milling machine. Sense most people, such as myself will only do a few 80% lowers and no access to a milling machine, I didn't see a need to get a router when my side loading is minimal, and already have a drill press. It worked great, and it wasn't at all due to luck. If I had planned to finish more than 2 or 3, I'd get a router too, but I never will, so I won't get one. So yeah, I did know about finishing them with a router. I fully researched and considered that method. |
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Posted: 12/3/2015 1:18:18 AM EDT
[#22]
I finished one about a month ago. It turned out pretty good in my humble opinion. I used the modulus jig. I have a drill press and several routers. I bought the end mill from modulus. It was my first and everything worked out well. I have completed the lower and am now trying to decide what caliber I want for the upper. I already have a 223 and 5.65 so I want to try something new.
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Posted: 12/3/2015 2:27:36 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think it's the second post in this thread.... see it? It questions the use of a...... Wait for it...... A WOODWORKING ROUTER!!!!!! That's what I responded to so chill the hell out, try not being so thoughtlessly insulting! I respond to exactly what I read. A woodworking router would be a bad idea..... Duh. Maybe if I clicked quote instead of reply it would have prevented the menstration. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: I own a variable speed woodworking router and it would be way way to fast to machine a lower. And how about the safety selector, trigger and hammer pin holes? Have fun trying that with a router with precision and not tearing up your jig. I used my drill press and an XY vise. Works flawlessly. As said before side load very slowly with very little pressure. I use a 4 flute center cutting end mill bit in my drill press. Get an XY vise from harbor freight as I did for like $60. Holds it all there in the jig nice and snug and allows you to move it around with crank handles. Take your time. I would not recommend a router. you really should research what you're talking about before you show that you have no clue of what you're talking about. I think it's the second post in this thread.... see it? It questions the use of a...... Wait for it...... A WOODWORKING ROUTER!!!!!! That's what I responded to so chill the hell out, try not being so thoughtlessly insulting! I respond to exactly what I read. A woodworking router would be a bad idea..... Duh. Maybe if I clicked quote instead of reply it would have prevented the menstration. Er, it seemingly turns out that a woodworking router is a commonly used tool to finish AR lowers, using a jig set up to use a hand-held, variable speed woodworking router. You are correct, it won't drill the FCS holes, which have to be done w/ a drill press, but a hand-held woodworking router seemingly does an admirable job in hogging out the FCS pocket. |
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Posted: 12/3/2015 2:34:06 AM EDT
[#24]
Has anyone actually made a mounting device for a router that anchors it in a fixture so you can have a table for an xy vise, and use it as a "mill"?
I think by the time you were done making it a usable, practical machine and not a shaky, sketchy, rigged piece of shit, you'd have spent more money than a mini mill and vise cost. |
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Posted: 12/3/2015 10:12:47 AM EDT
[#25]
Take a look on Long Island Craigslist for a Van Norman mill. This is a "0", they also made a "1/2" which is also very small and can be used for milling lowers. Keep searching used machinery dealers and you might find a gem for a reasonable price.I realize that this does not answer your original question ,but is another alternative.
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Posted: 12/3/2015 10:52:06 AM EDT
[#26]
I've got a little micro-CNC that basically uses a dremel type rotary tool. With enough time and money, I think you could make it happen for your router.
It's the little one on the left.  CHRIS |
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Posted: 12/3/2015 2:02:26 PM EDT
[#27]
Check out Ebay for an overhead, overarm, or pin router so you know what they look like. I believe someone used to make an adapter to mount a router to the column of a drill press so you could make your own overarm router. This would give you the quill travel and with an x/y vise you can get the travel that you need ?
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Posted: 12/3/2015 3:26:53 PM EDT
[#28]
Check out NEO7CNC and NYC CNC on Youtube. Both have great DIY milling, engaging and router machines.
Here's one of his early videos but shows using a router as a mill in a homemade DIY setup 
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Posted: 12/3/2015 3:31:20 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A woodworking router would be a bad idea..... Duh. It is the tooling that matters. Once you attach the solid carbide endmill, it just became a metal working router. Just don't tell the router it's cutting metal and it will never know the difference. 
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