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Posted: 10/17/2006 2:58:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Take a good punch and re-grind the end of it to look like one corner of a big-ass flat-head screwdriver.
That's the profile you want. 
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Posted: 10/17/2006 5:44:57 PM EDT
[#2]
Randall - you rock man. If it doesnt get said enough.... thanks for taking the time to be part of this community, and offering such professional advice.
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Posted: 10/17/2006 6:38:25 PM EDT
[#3]
I believe every AR15 castle nut should be staked. Mine is. The other one has an M93, so it's not.
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Posted: 10/17/2006 6:42:25 PM EDT
[#4]
That is because you are a Colt freak. 
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Posted: 10/17/2006 6:54:58 PM EDT
[#5]
Nope! I actually don't own a Colt lower.... I'm a nut for quality though  And my KAC sling swivel/castle nut setup kept spinning off, even with loctite. |
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Posted: 10/17/2006 10:07:21 PM EDT
[#6]
so to stake the castle nut you use a punch to shape the metal of the alignment plate, so that it fits in the notch on the forward part (away from the stock) of the castle nut?
sorry to sound like an idiot, i just wanted to make sure that is what you were saying. |
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Posted: 10/18/2006 4:48:10 AM EDT
[#7]
What's the best way to secure the lower prior to staking the castle nut? Given the impact involved and the distance from the magazine well, I'm leary of using a mag block to support it for this.
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Posted: 10/18/2006 5:03:02 AM EDT
[#8]
I wouldnt support the lower - I would support the buffer tube under the castle nut. But it stakes easier than ya think. |
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Posted: 10/18/2006 7:44:00 AM EDT
[#9]
Good point, thanks. For some reason I forgot I would have a big aluminum tube sticking out the back of the lower during this.
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Posted: 10/18/2006 7:57:33 AM EDT
[#10]
I just lay the gun on the floor and do it. Jeez!
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Posted: 10/18/2006 8:57:50 AM EDT
[#11]
I don't fully understand what's going on in the pic? AR newb!
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Posted: 10/18/2006 9:03:59 AM EDT
[#12]
984 posts and you are a newb?  Must live in GD... OK, here's what you are looking at: Left to right in the picture: Front edge of collapsible stock Buffer tube threads are just visible before the castle nut Castle nut has the big slot to the rear (left) and small slot to the front (right) Lock plate sits between castle nut and receiver Then to the right is the rear of the lower reciever Now do you see where the lock plate metal has been hammered/flowed into the small slot on the castle nut? THAT is the staking we are speaking of.
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Posted: 10/18/2006 12:43:10 PM EDT
[#13]
I think I get it. What's the point? I have 1000 and some odd posts because I work at home :D |
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Posted: 10/18/2006 2:07:46 PM EDT
[#14]
The point of the stake is to keep the castle nut from breaking loose during use. |
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Posted: 10/18/2006 5:21:11 PM EDT
[#15]
Jason, Some companies/ poeple just make the castle nut tight, this tends to work for awhile based off how tight they make it, and how much use the weapon actually sees. Some companies/ people use loctite, this works much better than staking, but its still not the most secure method. Some companies/ people stake the castle nut so as to displace metal, and ensure its not going anywhere. If you think of your AR15 as a weapon, you want it staked. If its a gun, you can use the other two choices and it probably doesn't matter. |
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Posted: 10/18/2006 7:40:19 PM EDT
[#16]
I stake mine with two drops of blue Locktite. One on the tube thread going into the receiver, and the other drop on the threads where the castle nut will make up.
That is all that is needed. |
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Posted: 10/18/2006 8:29:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Thats what I do as well.... but only one drop on the castle nut. |
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Posted: 10/19/2006 12:20:07 AM EDT
[#18]
What you are really saying is that you loctite the castle nut. If you are not displacing metal, you are not staking. Simple as that. |
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Posted: 10/19/2006 9:59:11 AM EDT
[#19]
I gotchya. thanks!
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Posted: 10/19/2006 12:39:04 PM EDT
[#20]
I concur with Stickman's evaluation, if it's a weapon, stake it properly.
Randall's photo's and methods aretop shelf, takes only a few minutes to do right, and will last a lifetime. This would be the advice I would follow if I were you, it's solid stuff. One thing I do, and I know it might be overkill, but I also make witness marks on all of my threaded unions, whether it's castle nuts, optics mounts, etc....just a little dab of paint will do you. |
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Posted: 10/22/2006 11:50:55 AM EDT
[#21]
See mine is a weapon, and my life depends on not launching a detent and spring in a rapid fire enviroment, I will be staking mine as soon as I replace my tele-stock.
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Posted: 10/26/2006 9:42:11 PM EDT
[#22]
I’m looking for some further insight into the practice of staking the castle nut on a typical adjustable stock. It seems like a great idea, and I have already ground one of my punches in preparation to stake the one on my carbine, because it is a “weapon” and not a range toy. But then I got to thinking of the nature of threaded metal parts, and I started second-guessing the practice. At the moment, my castle-nut is secured to the receiver extension threads with some elbow grease and a little blue loctite. Let’s suppose that I properly stake the castle nut today, and tomorrow, I go to the range to do some serious rapid-fire. During the range session, the loctite bond fails, and had I not staked the castle nut, the entire stock would become unsecured. The problem I imagine is this: The reason that the stock assembly is still secure on the rifle after the range session is not for the same reason that it was secure before the range session. Is staking really so reliable that it doesn’t allow for any loosening of the thread/thread bond, or is the situation more of the nature that one might wind up with a stock assembly that is only secured by some minor displacement of metal, with an underlying threaded bond that is no longer as strong as it once was? Obviously, in the latter situation, it would be very difficult to re-torque the nut.
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Posted: 10/26/2006 10:15:52 PM EDT
[#23]
Do you stake in just one slot or two?
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Posted: 10/27/2006 3:46:39 AM EDT
[#24]
Mr_D - Do not over think this. Its real simply, tighten the castle nut as tight as you can and then stake it. After that, it's ain't going anywhere PERIOD.
JasonC - 2 slots |
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Posted: 10/27/2006 4:04:32 PM EDT
[#25]
That's exactly what I am saying. Just blue Locktite. |
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Posted: 10/27/2006 8:13:32 PM EDT
[#27]
what if you decide to replace your stock?
or the tube gets damaged? how do you get it off? do you have to replace the tube if it needs to come off after staking? i am a noob as far as staking goes..... also more detailed pics of the ground chisle would be nice thanks in advance 
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Posted: 10/27/2006 8:19:02 PM EDT
[#28]
With proper staking, you will still be able to break the castle nut loose with a wrench. The small amount of metal that flowed will be swaged back into place, allowing the parts to come apart. Normal use (or even extreme use) would not be enough to break the castle nut loose though. The tube would certainly be re-used. You MAY want to replace the castle nut and retainer plate if cosmetic marks bother you, but they would most likely be completely servicable even after having been un-staked and re-staked. |
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Posted: 10/28/2006 9:56:11 AM EDT
[#29]
Good man.
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Posted: 10/28/2006 6:43:56 PM EDT
[#30]
For the castle nut to come loose, and a detent and spring to be lost, for example, for the takedown pin, the castle nut would have to come loose and vibrate back about 3/4". Blue locktite is not going to allow it to vibrate loose. Even if the nut was not jammed tight against the endplate, the blue locktite will keep the nut from moving on its own. It will have to be forced back with a wrench.
For the buffer retainer and spring to come out, the entire tube/stock assembly would have to back off about 1 1/2 - 2 full turns. You would notice if the entire stock rotated. Which it would have difficulty doing while on your shoulder and being fired. |
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Posted: 11/17/2006 12:06:05 AM EDT
[#31]
loctite can degrade over time with application of gun oils, solvents, cleaners...blah blah blah.
I know from experience....loctite is NOT a substitute for staking. stake it correctly. |
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Posted: 11/17/2006 5:43:00 PM EDT
[#32]
Only real men have staked castle nuts.
.... BTW, I just staked the caslte nuts on my 2 ARs.
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Posted: 11/17/2006 6:03:15 PM EDT
[#33]
I've had to split castle nuts with a dremil tool that had been staked at the fatory by far different means than the one shown. No way in heck was a wrench going to break those stakings. It must have been staked by a tool that looks and functions like a big bolt cutter / AK rivet squasher.
Now this method make far more sense. efxguy |
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Posted: 11/17/2006 6:06:56 PM EDT
[#34]
Staking is easy to do and the castle nut is easy to remove in my experience.
Plus deforming a little metal helps you look at your new carbine as less of a safe queen from the start
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Posted: 1/2/2007 11:28:03 PM EDT
[#35]
I removed the stakes from my Colt by dremeling the area just enough for it break loose. It worked w/o damaging anything. The plate and nut were replaced anyways.
Instead of factory staking the new nut/plate, I used red loctite and JB weld on the threads. After that I spot welded the two pieces together, then just to be sure I drove in some shallow roll pins. I did that prior to my last tour as a spacshuttle door gunner, that was six months ago and it hasn't come loose yet. Ambient radiation and space debris can be hell on gun parts.
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Posted: 1/3/2007 4:24:44 AM EDT
[#36]
Mig and Tig weld it in place!
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Posted: 1/3/2007 1:47:09 PM EDT
[#37]
I probably should stake it, but I never seem to keep a stock on long enough to worry. I always seem to be changing things. Next thing on my list is a Vltor clubfoot. At least I always have shoebox parts for my next build.
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Posted: 1/10/2007 8:59:30 PM EDT
[#38]
 
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Posted: 3/22/2007 1:23:09 PM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
Take a good punch and re-grind the end of it to look like one corner of a big-ass flat-head screwdriver. That's the profile you want. Neither of my AR castle nusts are staked. What size punch do I need to buy so I can grind it as described and properly stake mine? |
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Posted: 3/22/2007 5:24:00 PM EDT
[#40]
Loc-tite is not a substitution for staking, at least if you use a single point sling mount.
Learned that the hard way. |
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Posted: 3/30/2007 12:11:44 PM EDT
[#41]
BUMP because nobody answered the question. Is there a specific staking tool for this? |
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Posted: 3/30/2007 1:15:19 PM EDT
[#42]
Stick,
I have a S&W that was factory staked but I had to take off the nut when I put on a single point plate. What I did was took a large screw driver and staked the new plate at a angle, it that correct? Bri |
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Posted: 3/30/2007 6:46:56 PM EDT
[#43]
Wonders why A1 buffertubes stay on.
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Posted: 3/30/2007 6:58:45 PM EDT
[#44]
I use bubblegum, it works just like teflon tape.
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Posted: 3/30/2007 6:59:33 PM EDT
[#45]
The castle nut is meant to be staked, so stake it. The most stake heavy weapon I can think of is the M2HB. After rebuilding one, staking all the screws made the armory sound like a blacksmith's
.Semper Fi |
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Posted: 3/30/2007 7:06:41 PM EDT
[#46]
Because almost no torsion is applied to it. |
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Posted: 3/30/2007 9:11:34 PM EDT
[#47]
If you had ever installed a stock on one, the reason would be readily apparent. Have you seen that recess on the lower receiver's rear face just below the receiver extension threads? A1/A2 type stocks have a post that keys into that hole. When you twist on the stock, it transfers force to that hole, NOT to the receiver extension. With a carbine receiver extension, the force is transferred directly to the receiver extension. The lock-plate also keys into that hole in the receiver and attempts to stop the carbine receiver extension from rotating. |
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Posted: 3/30/2007 10:26:36 PM EDT
[#48]
you are glueing not staking. |
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Posted: 3/31/2007 6:43:42 AM EDT
[#49]
I wish one of you staking gurus would answer my dadblasted question about the staking tool. [Dr.Evil] Throw me a frickin bone here![/Dr.Evil] It looks like the punch is square shaped. Maybe 1/8" square? |
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Posted: 3/31/2007 7:28:40 AM EDT
[#50]
I haven't locktited my first build yet, just to make sure everything functions correctly. Is there a guide or a write-up on how to properly stake castle nuts?
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