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Posted: 5/11/2005 3:15:24 PM EDT
I knew parkerizing was generally easy, but this was ridiculous! I went from concept to finished test part in less than an hour.
Procedure: Go to Home Depot and buy a quart of "Aqua Mix" phosphoric acid cleaner. Look in the ceramic tile section for this stuff. At home, send your wife shopping, then steal a stainless pot that won't be used for food, ever again. Don safety glasses and gloves. Add water (distilled preferable) to the pot. Note how many onces you added. In a 1:24 ratio, add the phosphoric acid cleaner to the water. IOW, if you have 96 ounces of water, add 4 ounces of acid. Turn the heat to slightly above medium. Degrease a chunk of steel wool by soaping it up with Dawn or similar, and add a chunk to the pot, about 1/8th of a biscuit per gallon. It'll begin to fizzle. Prep your part. I won't go into detail. It must be CLEAN, and FREE OF OILS. Bead blast, or yopu can use 220 grit wet/dry or a scotchbrite pad to coarsen the surface. For the part in the picture, I simply soaked it in hot "Dawn" while the brew heated. Rinse the part before immersion. Hang it from iron wire, this makes it easy to handle. Heat the brew until it is almost boiling. You'll see some steam, and maybe some bubbles on the side of the pot, but it isn't boiling. Keep the heat there. Immerse the part. Wait 20 to 40 minutes. Rinse in hot water. Soak in WD-40 for a while. The resultant park was as nice as anything I've seen commercially. It was ridiculously easy and cheap. Standard disclaimers... don't be stupid, don't piss off your wife, don't drink acid or bathe in it, etc etc. Be a grown-up. Neutralize it with baking soda and discard.  Two pieces of 1020 DOM tube, one parked, one natural. Maybe 0.0005" dimensional change. Protect bores. The park will vary with the alloy.  |
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Posted: 5/11/2005 3:27:07 PM EDT
[#1]
Tag.
Best info thread today, one of the best all week! Dawg |
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Posted: 5/11/2005 4:08:48 PM EDT
[#2]
tag
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Posted: 5/11/2005 4:10:15 PM EDT
[#3]
Nice job, I need to do this to some parts.
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Posted: 5/11/2005 4:18:39 PM EDT
[#4]
Excellent!!! Great post!
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Posted: 5/11/2005 4:24:43 PM EDT
[#5]
Tag
Great info. Thanks |
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Posted: 5/11/2005 4:30:38 PM EDT
[#6]
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Posted: 5/11/2005 4:34:37 PM EDT
[#7]
Thanks! nice write up
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Posted: 5/11/2005 5:00:31 PM EDT
[#8]
tag...nice!
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Posted: 5/11/2005 5:37:53 PM EDT
[#9]
So tagged.
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Posted: 5/11/2005 6:22:55 PM EDT
[#10]
sweet!
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Posted: 5/11/2005 7:12:47 PM EDT
[#11]
THANKS for the write up. The proverbial dumb question, "How do you protect the bore?" wganz ¶ |
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Posted: 5/11/2005 7:15:58 PM EDT
[#12]
Tagggeeedddd!!
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Posted: 5/11/2005 7:59:34 PM EDT
[#13]
tag.... THANKS for the info!!!!
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Posted: 5/11/2005 9:43:54 PM EDT
[#14]
tag
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Posted: 5/11/2005 10:08:50 PM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 5/11/2005 10:20:42 PM EDT
[#16]
I have heard you can use a rubber stopper like the ones used on erlynmeyer flasks (chemistry glassware) as they supposedly are resistant to most acids. |
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Posted: 5/11/2005 10:21:52 PM EDT
[#17]
tag
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Posted: 5/11/2005 10:40:43 PM EDT
[#18]
.
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Posted: 5/12/2005 2:00:26 AM EDT
[#19]
So if you get your hands on some manganese powder instead of the brillo, you've got yourself Manganese phosphate? Great.
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Posted: 5/12/2005 2:50:30 AM EDT
[#20]
In english for the slow ones among us ( meaning me ) |
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Posted: 5/12/2005 2:56:11 AM EDT
[#21]
Nice,
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Posted: 5/12/2005 3:48:14 AM EDT
[#22]
tag
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Posted: 5/12/2005 4:11:46 AM EDT
[#23]
Tagged...
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Posted: 5/12/2005 4:32:26 AM EDT
[#24]
Sounds like pretty good advice to me. Nice write up.....and ummm....i'm still fairly new to this place so I'm wondering.....how do you "tag" a thread exactly?
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Posted: 5/12/2005 4:38:13 AM EDT
[#25]
Rat, its a team member feature.. all of the threads you reply in get listed in My Active Topics so its easy to go back and look at the threads you posted in..
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Posted: 5/12/2005 4:51:05 AM EDT
[#26]
Nice! Thanks for the write-up!
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Posted: 5/12/2005 4:57:31 AM EDT
[#27]
Park'ing with the standard park chemical kit is just as easy and not that much more expensive. This is basically the same thing, but is a slightly cheaper alternative with products you can pick up down the road, rather than ordering online.
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Posted: 5/12/2005 6:41:18 AM EDT
[#28]
Thanks.
 There's a LOT of room here for refinement, such as tests with varying acid concentrations, adding manganese for color, etc. This basic recipe produces a classic grey color. It looks very much like the protected areas on my old M-1 carbine from WW2, and it is a dead-match for several AR barrels. I think what makes it nice is the availability of the phosphoric acid from Home Depot.My only previous experience was with an Amerlene kit from Brownells. This worked every bit as good if not better. Like any finish, prep is the key, especially the degrease phase. |
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Posted: 5/12/2005 9:31:10 AM EDT
[#29]
Wow, thats good stuff...
okay, now what do I use to take PARK off? |
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Posted: 5/12/2005 10:28:54 AM EDT
[#30]
tag
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Posted: 5/12/2005 10:58:42 AM EDT
[#31]
I like the Radocy pre-mix park solution. It's cheap and does a great job........
I'll have to try this method though as it seems pretty simple as well. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/hitzy/P1020312.jpg |
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Posted: 5/12/2005 11:48:54 AM EDT
[#32]
tag - Great info!!
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Posted: 5/12/2005 11:53:09 AM EDT
[#33]
great stuff, where can I get that ? |
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Posted: 5/12/2005 11:59:29 AM EDT
[#34]
TAG
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Posted: 5/12/2005 12:03:48 PM EDT
[#35]
tag
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Posted: 5/12/2005 12:21:20 PM EDT
[#36]
I used these instruction when I did some small parts for my FAL a year or so ago. I did use manganese dioxide and got a dark, almost black park. I got the Manganese from a ceramics* store, they use it as part of some of their glazes. Also for a pot, I just spent $4 on the biggest, cheap, stainless bowl they had at walmart, and I bought a cheap candy thermometer there also. *when I say ceramics store, I mean the kind where people buy stuff for making clay and ceramics pottery. They sell glazes and ovens and stuff like that. Usually full of old people and hippies. |
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Posted: 5/12/2005 5:40:16 PM EDT
[#37]
Oh yea, Tag-a-roony.
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Posted: 5/13/2005 3:57:15 AM EDT
[#38]
Tag.
This might even rate a tack, or at least be added to an FAQ somewhere. |
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Posted: 5/13/2005 4:59:23 AM EDT
[#39]
http://www.takedownguides.com/our_products.htm You mix it 1oz per gallon of water so it will do you quite a while. I didn't even blast that M1 trigger group, stripped it down to bare metal using a 50/50 mix of muratic acid and water, took about 5 minutes. The acid bath helps the park adhere as well. |
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Posted: 5/13/2005 7:52:56 AM EDT
[#40]
tag
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Posted: 5/13/2005 10:44:06 AM EDT
[#41]
tag
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Posted: 5/13/2005 10:57:19 AM EDT
[#42]
Tag! Great Post!
How could I use this (or could I) to park over the spot weld on a flash hider after pinning it to a 14.5" M4 barrel? Danny |
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Posted: 5/13/2005 10:58:02 AM EDT
[#43]
Great info! this is well worth saving.
Thanks |
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Posted: 5/13/2005 11:08:38 AM EDT
[#44]
Tagged
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Posted: 5/13/2005 12:06:00 PM EDT
[#45]
Great info! Thanks for the write up.
CD |
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Posted: 5/13/2005 12:17:07 PM EDT
[#46]
couple of questions..
does old blueing need to be removed before you do this? I know that parkerising the inside of a bore isnt really good, how do you recomend sealing it? FYI I have a really beat up Model 12 that I am considering doing. |
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Posted: 5/13/2005 3:01:14 PM EDT
[#47]
tag.
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Posted: 5/13/2005 6:53:01 PM EDT
[#48]
Tag-o-rama!
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Posted: 5/13/2005 7:32:31 PM EDT
[#49]
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Posted: 5/13/2005 7:35:29 PM EDT
[#50]
Good info. Thanks for the right up!
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