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Posted: 10/12/2004 5:31:24 PM EDT
[#1]
No, Norrells stuff is better; In my opinion.
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Posted: 10/12/2004 6:15:30 PM EDT
[#2]
Here are threads that will explain all about how to use Norrells Moly Resin.
www.mgtalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4113 www.coloradoshooting.org/ar_refinishing.htm Quite a few people have followed the link and had great results. Here are a few pictures of weapons I've done using those steps..... This is a gray upper & lower receiver with carry handle, and SOCOM (matte black) finish for the rest of the weapon.  This is all SOCOM  |
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Posted: 10/12/2004 6:18:26 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks for the info i use norrells just was wondering if gunkote was the same stuff.
Norrells is awsome just refinished my 9mm upper and lower and 8 mags |
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Posted: 10/12/2004 7:35:07 PM EDT
[#4]
I have been told that GunKote is less forgiving in its application, I can't verify this but figure I will pass it along for whatever its worth.
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Posted: 10/13/2004 3:39:29 AM EDT
[#5]
+1 on Norrells. Matched my Colt upper almost 100%.
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Posted: 10/14/2004 7:24:00 AM EDT
[#6]
I had a bad experiance w/gunkote. I followed all the directions and it still came out looking like crap! I will say to be fair though that it was my first attempt at re-finishing. Now I use Krylon and prep the metal TO AN EXTREME AMOUNT. I degrease w/gunscrubber, then wash with dish washing detergent and HOT water. I use rubber gloves through the whole process. So far so good. NICE results!Take care.
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Posted: 10/14/2004 9:37:27 AM EDT
[#7]
I used the Moly resin to refinish the slide on my Glock, very easy to use. Follow the directions on Stickmans link and you will be happy. I have not tried it on plastic so I dont know how well it will stick. The directions on Norrells site say it sticks well to SOME plastics.
IAFF 2164 |
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Posted: 10/14/2004 2:54:23 PM EDT
[#8]
firehawk-356,
It makes my little heart happy to hear people having good results, thankyou for posting that info! As far as plastics, the Norrells should hold well to most, but the cheaper plastics with lower melting temps may be a concern. Things like handguards and buttstocks should not be a problem at all. Shiny smooth plastics would be a concern to me, but I confess I havn't had a reason to spray any cheap smooth plastics..... |
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Posted: 10/14/2004 2:56:01 PM EDT
[#9]
You are not the first person to have those results, check out the Norrells and you won't be disappointed. |
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Posted: 10/14/2004 4:06:14 PM EDT
[#10]
I used your guide when I did mine as well. Turned out excellent! |
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Posted: 10/14/2004 4:16:02 PM EDT
[#11]
stickman, please repost your how to.....
also, do they sell it in a can instead of airbrush? do you have to bake the finish? even the plastic? will oil or solvents take it off? |
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Posted: 10/14/2004 4:17:05 PM EDT
[#12]
One of the things that impressed me is how little of the Moly resin you use, I forget what size I bought but it was $20 some dollars. You could very easily spray an entire AR with this amount. I just wish I had the huevos to spray my AR. Does anyone have pics of an OD AR? I thought of just spraying my barrel, upper and lower and leave the handguards and stock black.
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Posted: 10/14/2004 4:42:39 PM EDT
[#13]
I'm getting ready to do one for a friend. I'm debating if I am going to make it two tone with two different variants of OD green, or if it will just be all one color OD green. Give me another week, I have to do actual work, which seriously cuts into my quality AR15 time!! |
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Posted: 10/14/2004 4:47:28 PM EDT
[#14]
primary site www.mgtalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4113 secondary site www.coloradoshooting.org/ar_refinishing.htm No, its only available for airbrush (use the cheapo $15 version) Yes, the finish is thermal cured, which means to baking means no curing. Affirm, but bake the plastic at 250 instead fo 300. No, solvents don't touch it, not even when left on the finish. |
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Posted: 10/14/2004 9:59:51 PM EDT
[#15]
So what color would more accurately match the early M16-A1/AR-15 from Vietnam? I see the picture of the first rifle and it was done in gray, which looks too dark for the pictures I have seen. What's the difference in color between the gray and grayish-black flat? Maybe I'm looking at the wrong M16 pictures, but it seems to me like both those colors would be too dark.
Kevhug.gif |
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Posted: 10/14/2004 10:27:39 PM EDT
[#16]
Taken from the molyresin.com webpage...
GRAYISH-BLACK Flat Dark gray-black coloration with a flat appearance. This duplicates the appearance of the early original Colt AR-15/M-16 finish. This is the same product that is purchased from us by the U.S. Military to refinish Colt M-16's. molyresin.com/molyresin_about.asp |
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Posted: 10/15/2004 7:35:40 AM EDT
[#17]
Stickman, you say to bake the plastic at 250 instead of 300. Is this still for 1 hour or do you increase the time. I have decided to try to spray my faux M-4 stock and handguards to play around with it.
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Posted: 10/15/2004 9:46:27 AM EDT
[#18]
Bake it at 250 for 90 minutes, instead of the usual 300 for 60 minutes.
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Posted: 10/18/2004 1:25:08 PM EDT
[#19]
Looks like that glocksunlocked website is no longer available.
Here's what I get when I try to click the link.... "glocksunlocked.com has ceased operation, effective at 2200 GMT, 15-Oct-2004" 
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Posted: 10/18/2004 9:40:52 PM EDT
[#20]
www.coloradoshooting.org/ar_refinishing.htm
GU was shut down, but the links are getting put up on other sites as interest spreads, Try the above for a copy of the original version. |
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Posted: 10/19/2004 6:29:19 AM EDT
[#21]
I took your advise stickman and ordered from norrel,my only problem is it has been 2 weeks since I ordered and I still have not received my order.I have emailed them 5 times and have still not got an answer back on the status of my order.How long did it take for you to receive yours?
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Posted: 10/19/2004 8:29:34 AM EDT
[#22]
tagged
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Posted: 10/19/2004 8:33:07 AM EDT
[#23]
It takes awhile, for some reason it always takes about 2 weeks or so.  On a brighter note, waiting for it to arrive is the hardest part! |
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Posted: 10/19/2004 11:27:10 AM EDT
[#24]
This is just SEXY. It's got me thinking that I need to refinish my M4gery to make it all one color... hmmmmm.... 
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Posted: 10/19/2004 1:28:55 PM EDT
[#25]
I'm waiting on my order too...I ordered 8 ounces of the SOCOM Flat Black to try out on one of my ARs. Though I only ordered mine on the 13th, I think I still have some time to gather up the rest of my needed items to complete the refinishing project.
[ 
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Posted: 10/21/2004 3:08:33 PM EDT
[#26]
Here's a quick question for ya.....if you follow the directions found on the net about refinishing ARs and you do some or most of the finishing with the major portions of the rifle still assembled, doesn't heating the rifle to those temperatures for that duration of time adversely affect the small springs that are left in place?
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Posted: 10/21/2004 4:04:21 PM EDT
[#27]
Well here's my A1 done up in gray-black.This is my first AR and I put her together myself.
http://members.cox.net/cmiller000/Copy-of-DSCF0659.jpg |
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Posted: 10/21/2004 5:08:32 PM EDT
[#28]
Tread,
That looks very good. What finish did you use? How did you apply it? Had you done refinishing before? Thanks, and good job!! |
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Posted: 10/21/2004 6:48:50 PM EDT
[#30]
I'll take you up on that if I ever get out that way. If you get the chance, post or drop me a line with comments regarding the refinishing thread. I have redone a few pictures, but I am very interested in knowing what sections need better explaining, or better pictures. A critique from you, or from others would be helpful in getting the 2nd generation thread up to date and even better. Your opinion is more valid than mine, because you hadn't worked with this stuff before.
I'll be building a Mega based M4, and doing the entire thing OD green. I am debating doing a page similar to the refinishing thread, except showing the entire build as well as the refinish. |
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Posted: 10/21/2004 9:59:25 PM EDT
[#31]
that would be great as I intend to refinish an AR in OD. Thanks. Good write up too.
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Posted: 10/22/2004 8:02:20 AM EDT
[#32]
Stickman I found your guide very easy to follow and not lacking in any way,the only thing I did different was I kept the hair dryer going on other parts while I sprayed the one already heated,that way I didn't have to worry about stopping and having the material in the airbrush seperate.I also filled 2 other airbrush bottles with the warmed and shaken material and then just had to give them a quick shake before screwing them on the brush.
Also it helps to place the canned air in a pan of warm water while you are spraying,it keeps the pressure the same no matter how long you spray. |
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Posted: 10/22/2004 11:42:00 AM EDT
[#33]
Good stuff, thankyou. I tend to leave the Norrells bottle in a pan of hot water while I work, and shake every time I refill. I like the other ideas, but I'm not sure how you keep the hairdryer goin on parts while you are spraying. Do you leave it on blowing hot air onto the next part you are going to spray?
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Posted: 10/22/2004 11:54:52 AM EDT
[#34]
I find if you heat the moly resin AND preheat the part to 300*F, the moly drys as soon as the droplets hit, and it results in a fuzzy finish that rubs off. Underneath is a semigloss finish.
I preheated to 170*F as that is as low as my oven will go. By the time I took the parts outside, I am sure they were down to 130*-140*. This worked out well. Tallfighter said Here's a quick question for ya.....if you follow the directions found on the net about refinishing ARs and you do some or most of the finishing with the major portions of the rifle still assembled, doesn't heating the rifle to those temperatures for that duration of time adversely affect the small springs that are left in place? No problem. Only 300*F. That is not hot enough to hurt anything. |
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Posted: 10/22/2004 1:21:53 PM EDT
[#35]
Yep I just lay it on it's side and put the next piece in front of it.
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Posted: 10/23/2004 9:48:36 AM EDT
[#36]
Great stuff, a new page has been made up, and both of your input has gone into it (with due credit given of course)!
 The new link I'll be posting for people is shown below. It is a fairly new site (opened this month), but has some familiar faces. Check it out, join up, post what you like, I think it is going to be a good board for MG and other talk. www.mgtalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4113&st=0&#entry32314 |
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Posted: 10/23/2004 2:34:43 PM EDT
[#37]
Tag, good info in here.
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Posted: 10/23/2004 5:49:03 PM EDT
[#38]
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Posted: 10/23/2004 10:45:53 PM EDT
[#39]
The hard part for me is getting a full pic of a 20" AR15 that shows the level of detail that I want, but is in a decent size pic. I need to get out and work on it, as well as find a new background..... I agree that it needs a "after" pic.
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Posted: 10/24/2004 1:22:51 PM EDT
[#40]
Can I coat the internal parts also, ie. Bolt/carrier, lower parts. Would the parts be too tight or the finish come of the moving parts.
Sorry if this is a dumb question |
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Posted: 10/24/2004 3:11:28 PM EDT
[#41]
Ranger,
Its not a dumb question at all, the answer is that you can. I wouldn't do the bolt and BC, but I have done the internals/ FCG several times (including about 5 minutes ago). I don't think it would cause a problem with your bolt and BC, but I can't see a gain in doing them either. To be honest, it would probably just wear away off the high wear areas. Norrells Moly Resin website states that it can be applied to the internals, and I have done it to 1911 slide and frame rails several times. Just make sure you treat it like a new weapon and break it in before you rely on it to protect yourself. The parts will need a few rounds to loosen up their new tolerances. Check out the link, it should answer most questions. Email, PM or reply here if you have any questions at all. www.mgtalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4113&st=0&#entry32314 |
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Posted: 10/24/2004 3:13:36 PM EDT
[#42]
Ok, I just refinished it in OD. I need to bake/ cure it, then I'll get some pics up. |
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Posted: 10/24/2004 4:57:19 PM EDT
[#43]
I followed Stickman's original Refinishing thread, and did these:
This is for one of my shooting buddies, a good friend and deputy (DARE officer and firearms inst). It had a gray Essential Arms lower and black A1 upper. Previous owner had spraypainted it, no disassembly or degreasing, just sprayed. So, at the same time we were doing this, we changed to a flattop, one of the LAR Grizzly "blemished" uppers. I did the barrel under the handguard black, and the exposed portion OD. The delta ring was plastic, so we are waiting on a real one coming probably tomorrow:  This is just to show how well the OD matches up with Armalite furniture:  And this is another upper I did mounted on a Cavalry Arms OD Mk II lower: 
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Posted: 10/24/2004 5:07:56 PM EDT
[#44]
To show how the Norrell's black matches current black anodizing, this is the old previously spraypainted A1 upper from the deputy's rifle, now refinished with Norrell's Flat Black (Socom). It is sitting on a new DPMS lower, perfect match:
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Posted: 10/24/2004 6:01:50 PM EDT
[#45]
Here's my completed refinishing project....let me know what yall think.
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Posted: 10/24/2004 6:33:46 PM EDT
[#46]
Looks great!
Did you paint the plastic, too? Any problem with adhesion to the plastic? |
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Posted: 10/24/2004 7:09:14 PM EDT
[#47]
I just finished the M17 this weekend with moly resin grayish black. Im loving this product!
 
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Posted: 10/24/2004 7:40:10 PM EDT
[#48]
I'm baking a set of M4 handguards OD Green as we speak.....or write...or whatever this is.....I'll post the results in a little bit, and get pics up tonight if I can.
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Posted: 10/24/2004 7:53:37 PM EDT
[#49]
Most handguards have a nicely textured finish that should hold paint well, but I worry about smoother plastic, such as CAR buttstocks. On the other hand, you can get quite a range of colors from Cav Arms.
Stickman, JohnnyMc's grayblack M17 looks quite a bit lighter than the grayblack on some of your and Tread1's photos. Is Johnny's photo pretty representative of the true color of this gray? Johnny's looks more like the color of gray USGI mags. I really can't tell the difference, in the photos, of Tread1's and Stick's gray black from the Norrell's Flat Black (socom). |
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Posted: 10/24/2004 8:05:59 PM EDT
[#50]
Curing temps on the moly resin might affect color. I preheated to 100 then lightly coated, then baked at 300 degress for one hour. Then reheated to 100, painted with a little thicker coat and baked at 315 degress for 1 hour. I was also sure to shake the bottle good before pouring it into my airbush bottle.
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