I froglubed the bcg on my PWS with the paste because that is all I have right now.  I swear after I wiped the excess off it feels bone dry.  I guess my concern is since this area doesn't heat up like a DI gun does, should I use the liquid instead?  What would be great is if I could turn some of this paste into liquid. :)

I would probably only use the liquid stuff in a piston gun.

I wouldn't FrogLube a damn thing,........threw it in the trash after it want rancid

The stuff goes rancid?  Hmmm.... I pretty much use Slip2000 EWL, but I do have a tub of the Frog Lube wax I tried once about a year ago and it's been sitting on the shelf ever since.  Think I'll go check it now.

I've been using Frog Lube for a few years with no issue.  I use the heat treat method though.  Yes, I lube my piston guns.  Frog Lube is some of the best stuff I have ever used.

So do you use liquid, paste, or both and where?

I might help to understand that Frog Lube isn't an oil.  It's not a fluid that needs to be in liquid form on the parts of the gun to provide a film of lubricant.  It's a metal treatment.  It seeps into the pores of the metal and partially bonds with the metal to create a rust inhibitor and friction reducer.  So you can't treat it like normal gun oil.  You have to pre-treat the parts with frog lube and then wipe dry.  In other words, follow the instructions.

A guy in Wisconsin just did an amazing independent test of something like 47 different products.  I won't spoil the end, but it's about the most comprehensive test I've ever seen.  He's a frequent poster at the Alaska Outdoor Forum.  Here's a link:

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/141077-Results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation

Bottom line, there are 3 products for rust protection that won the test so handily that it's just ridiculous.  Frog lube lasted 54 days exposed to the elements, Hornady One Shot lasted 58 days, and WD40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor lasted an impressive 62 days before significant rust showed.  Most of the traditional "gun lubes" lasted less than 12 days.  Many of them failed in less than a week.  For lubricity (yes that's a word) the winners were (in decending order) Hornady's One Shot, Frog Lube, and Rand CLP.  So, you want a corrosion protection and lubricator?  Hornady's One Shot or Frog Lube.

Per the instructions below under CLP.

Step 5-- .," Lubricate per manufacturers instruction. FrogLube will work dry or wet."

Step 6. --  If storing, apply a light coat for long term protection. -.

http://froglube.com/froglube-product-info/froglube-directions/


Well i applied a small amount to the rails of several pistols basically giving the rails a slight sheen or wet look. Also the same to my AR15 bolt and M1 Garand bolt. I checked them a few weeks later and each pistol slide was gummed up and the bolts were sticky.

I will never use this stuff again.!!   Also look at the steps you have to perform just to clean and lube your rifle or pistols.Its ridiculous.
With BreakFree CLP .i wet a rag and patch and with normal cleaning methods im done. And i save alot more time and  product. With Froglube your wiping most of the product away.

After cleaning, a little BreakFree CLP on everything that moves.


http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/p_102100023_1.jpg

 

But you're making the assumption that the product has to be visible to work, like all other lubricants.  That is not the case.  In fact, if done properly, you should feel scared to death that you may have wiped too much away.  It doesn't work as a film between surfaces lubricant like CLP or any other oil based lube.  Penetrating lubes work by altering the friction at the metal level and seeping out under heat.  If you don't like that, it's fine, I'm not trying to convince anyone to use frog lube.  Just want to be sure people understand that it's a completely different mindset to use frog lube versus a traditional CLP.  The point to adding it while storing is to have extra there for long term storage.  Think cosmolene.  BTW, frog lube is not a petroleum based product so it's nothing like cosmolene, this is just a thought exercise.  You wouldn't cake on cosmolene and then complain that you can't work the bolt.  Just like cosmolene, you should remove the excess before you shoot it again.  Field strip it, wipe it all down so it looks dry again, and you're fine.  Under normal use, it should look dry until you start shooting.

As for clean up.  Dry white cloth.  Done.  I have yet to "re-apply" frog lube to my EDC/competition pistol after over a year of use in Alaska.  I compete every week.  After the competition, dry white cloth rub down and done.  Still no problems.  (PS the last time I "cleaned" this particular pistol was in October of 2013.)  I'll be shooting it again tonight and I'll let you know if I have any issues.

I used it and noticed a difference right away. Everything functioned easier it was slipperier than Breakfree which I have been using for over twenty years. A real test of lubes is tapping titanium. Taping titanium is a bitch plan and simple. The best lube was pure molybdenum disulfide. The other day I tried Frog lube paste and was amazed that it actually worked pretty good. With my guns I dissembled, clean everything with break cleaner until everything is completely oil and grease free. Then I treat with the liquid and a heat gun using a brush to make sure the liquid goes everywhere. I then rub it dry with a cloth. I add some paste to the wear areas and put the gun back together. man it just cycled like silk.

When I do an initial heat treat, I use the paste.  I only put it in the recommended areas.  Follow up treatments, after range sessions, I use liquid.  There are plenty of videos that detail the heat treat method.  This way your not over lubing your AR.  The stuff really works.  As far as going rancid, for that OP, I'd be contacting the manufacturer.  I've never had that problem personally.  I used to use Slip 2000, but the problem with lubes like that is when using them on coated parts (chrome, NIB, etc...) the oil won't stay in place and will run down the rifle into the stock area when placed into the safe.  You would need to use a grease, or Frog Lube to counter that.

If you look over at ar15performance.com that melonites everything they say very specifically DO NOT frog lube their stuff because for some reason melonite (QPQ, nitrocarborizing, whatever you want to call it) doesn't play nice with the FL. I don't use it so I can't tell you what the problem is, but as they melonite all their barrels they should know.

Frankly I run grease in my lowers because all my guns are pistons and being a lefty I don't care for oil spray on my eye protection, or clothes, or optics.  It doesn't dry, drip, run, or go bad.  I change it like twice a year and really that's overdoing it.

I can't find the info you are noting.  Could you show where they say that?  I'm curious because I know that many people use frog lube on many types of hand guns that are melonited (Glock, S&W, XD, ETC) and have no issues.  That said, if there is something to this, I'd like to know because I use frog lube on a pistol that is melonited.

UPDATE:  Is it possible you are confusing Bullfrog RustHunter with Frog Lube?  They are different companies and different products.  Sort of like confusing Ford Mustang and Chevy Camaro.

I gave up on Frog Lube, TW-25b, Breakfree etc for Modern Spartan Systems Accuracy Oil.

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2013/09/robert-farago/new-spartan-accuracy-systems-spartan-accuracy-oil/

Very impressive except when I try to go to their web site I get server error......hummmm!!!!  












 

I think it is down for maintenance (I hope)--the stuff really works

Sent email to one of owners (he is. Marine  veteran so the brotherhood usually works to get needed assistance). He said it was technical issue and  sure should be back online today. If you hues it. Let me know your opinion.

Jim

Near expertly affected hi-jack of thread!  OP "I used Frog lube, here's my concern."  Now the thread is "contact these guys at this other place to use their stuff."  Gotta love stream of consciousness.

Oh Hell.... yes.  Was on there a few months ago and as I have a lot of stuff that's melonited I was like "wow, that's odd."  Brain didn't separate the frog "species." My faux pas.  DAMMIT I hate being human!

Well to be honest it's more a Whew moment for me.  I was worried I needed to do something.

Bullfrog Rusthunter makes sense to avoid as it's a rust remover.  Many surface treatments of guns are an oxidation process which is a form of rust.  So by using a rust remover you are essentially trying to remove the finish.  So that makes sense I guess.

works great for me, I have used the paste on the bcg on my PWS since I got it and it hasn't had any issues. It is also easy to clean off so I am not sure what all the fuss is about, you just wipe it off and you're set. The reason I like the paste is it is always there, I don't have to worry about it running dry... It works great for me but I might try the clp next time instead of the paste to see how that works.

Be careful. Too much frog lube can clog orifices and holes that need to be not clogged, Sounds stupid but I have seen this several times with the paste. The paste also collects dirt and debris and allows it to build up. I have seen several carry guns with Frog lube and lint. I simply use Break free CLP or Slick 2000. Both have proven very reliable lubes when used properly.

I use the paste CLP for the BGG, bolt, and inside the upper receiver of my SR556. It works great. I clean the aforementioned with the Froglube solvent and and reapply. No issues, no splatters, no worries.