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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:01:33 PM EDT
Can Aluma Hyde be applied with a brush, or does it have to be sprayed on? Thanks.
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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:03:05 PM EDT
[#1]
Send an email to crackedcornish.He made a non colt alum stock look like an original colt using that stuff.Check with him...
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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:05:43 PM EDT
[#2]
Alright. Thanks!
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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:14:05 PM EDT
[#3]
The best way to think of Alumahyde is like spray paint that just happens to be resistant to most aggressive gun cleaning chemicals. I think it's fine for furniture and maybe as an external metal coloring finish, but I'm skeptical of its utility on any metal parts that are going to see mechanical friction/wear. I used it to color a synthetic folding stock for a Marlin Camp Carbine, and after allowing it to fully cure, it still chipped a little bit where the stock rubs against the charging handle when folded. I don't think anything disastrous would happen if you brushed it on, but I'm not sure why one would want to. Is there some specific application you have in mind that causes you to ask?
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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:16:05 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
The best way to think of Alumahyde is like spray paint that just happens to be resistant to most aggressive gun cleaning chemicals. I think it's fine for furniture and maybe as an external metal coloring finish, but I'm skeptical of its utility on any metal parts that are going to see mechanical friction/wear. I used it to color a synthetic folding stock for a Marlin Camp Carbine, and after allowing it to fully cure, it still chipped a little bit where the stock rubs against the charging handle when folded. I don't think anything disastrous would happen if you brushed it on, but I'm not sure why one would want to. Is there some specific application you have in mind that causes you to ask? I'll be using it just to touch up a scratch. |
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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:20:15 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Quoted:
The best way to think of Alumahyde is like spray paint that just happens to be resistant to most aggressive gun cleaning chemicals. I think it's fine for furniture and maybe as an external metal coloring finish, but I'm skeptical of its utility on any metal parts that are going to see mechanical friction/wear. I used it to color a synthetic folding stock for a Marlin Camp Carbine, and after allowing it to fully cure, it still chipped a little bit where the stock rubs against the charging handle when folded. I don't think anything disastrous would happen if you brushed it on, but I'm not sure why one would want to. Is there some specific application you have in mind that causes you to ask? I'll be using it just to touch up a scratch. Seems to me like that would work. I wonder... I read somewhere on this forum that Ident uses Aluminum Black to fill the engraving on the NDS gray receivers they do with the Colt markings, Auto marking, etc. I wonder if it would be suitable for touching up scratches, or would it really be too black? |
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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:37:14 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The best way to think of Alumahyde is like spray paint that just happens to be resistant to most aggressive gun cleaning chemicals. I think it's fine for furniture and maybe as an external metal coloring finish, but I'm skeptical of its utility on any metal parts that are going to see mechanical friction/wear. I used it to color a synthetic folding stock for a Marlin Camp Carbine, and after allowing it to fully cure, it still chipped a little bit where the stock rubs against the charging handle when folded. I don't think anything disastrous would happen if you brushed it on, but I'm not sure why one would want to. Is there some specific application you have in mind that causes you to ask? I'll be using it just to touch up a scratch. Seems to me like that would work. I wonder... I read somewhere on this forum that Ident uses Aluminum Black to fill the engraving on the NDS gray receivers they do with the Colt markings, Auto marking, etc. I wonder if it would be suitable for touching up scratches, or would it really be too black? I used it, and it's too dark. I just ordered some parkerizing grey Aluma Hyde. Thanks for your feedback.
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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:38:51 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The best way to think of Alumahyde is like spray paint that just happens to be resistant to most aggressive gun cleaning chemicals. I think it's fine for furniture and maybe as an external metal coloring finish, but I'm skeptical of its utility on any metal parts that are going to see mechanical friction/wear. I used it to color a synthetic folding stock for a Marlin Camp Carbine, and after allowing it to fully cure, it still chipped a little bit where the stock rubs against the charging handle when folded. I don't think anything disastrous would happen if you brushed it on, but I'm not sure why one would want to. Is there some specific application you have in mind that causes you to ask? I'll be using it just to touch up a scratch. Seems to me like that would work. I wonder... I read somewhere on this forum that Ident uses Aluminum Black to fill the engraving on the NDS gray receivers they do with the Colt markings, Auto marking, etc. I wonder if it would be suitable for touching up scratches, or would it really be too black? I used it, and it's too dark. I just ordered some parkerizing grey Aluma Hyde. Thanks for your feedback. The main thing to remember is that they aren't kidding when they say it takes 1-2 weeks to fully cure. |
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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:44:05 PM EDT
[#8]
It cures in a few hours if you put it in the oven @ ~200 then let it cool naturally...
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Posted: 8/13/2010 6:46:39 PM EDT
[#9]
This rifle won't be shot for at least another month or so, so that's not a big deal. Shooting is too expensive.
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Posted: 8/13/2010 7:11:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Plinkster, you are worried about a freakin scratch? Anyways
I used Aluma-Hyde II on my Retro trench gun build and it holds up well. The spray nozzle clogs up very easily though so make sure you have some acetone or alcohol to clean the cap with. Edit: I painted the receiver with flat black 
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Posted: 8/13/2010 7:27:07 PM EDT
[#11]
+1 on the clogged nozzles. I just pick up half a dozen replacement nozzles whenever I buy a can of Alumahyde. Actually, I usually get several cans at a time because of the hazmat fee...
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Posted: 8/13/2010 7:43:57 PM EDT
[#12]
just answered you e-mail before logging in and reading this
looks like everything I told you was already covered here, except like I told you in the e-mail, if you use multiple coats (more than 2-3), like on a stock, extend the time allowed for it to fully cure before you even touch it. for just touching up a scratch I don't see why using a small fine artist type brush wouldn't work, I assumed you were talking about apply the finish to a larger surface, such as a stock or receiver. For just a touch-up a single light coat would probably be sufficient |
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Posted: 8/13/2010 8:10:16 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
I just ordered some parkerizing grey Aluma Hyde. Just noticed this... You're probably already on top of this, but just in case... there is "parkerizing gray" and there is "dark parkerizing gray", and if I recall correctly from previous threads it is the dark variety that best matches Colt / NDS / US Anodizing parts. |
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Posted: 8/14/2010 1:11:26 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
Plinkster, you are worried about a freakin scratch? Anyways
I used Aluma-Hyde II on my Retro trench gun build and it holds up well. The spray nozzle clogs up very easily though so make sure you have some acetone or alcohol to clean the cap with. Edit: I painted the receiver with flat black http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/cda97/IMG_3549.jpg I'm kinda (very) OCD when it comes to stuff like that. |
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Posted: 8/14/2010 1:12:35 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I just ordered some parkerizing grey Aluma Hyde. Just noticed this... You're probably already on top of this, but just in case... there is "parkerizing gray" and there is "dark parkerizing gray", and if I recall correctly from previous threads it is the dark variety that best matches Colt / NDS / US Anodizing parts. I was aware of the variations, but I went with parkerizing grey instead of dark parkerizing grey because I'm trying to match it up with XM grey, which is pretty light on my receiver. |
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Posted: 8/14/2010 5:50:37 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
just answered you e-mail before logging in and reading this looks like everything I told you was already covered here, except like I told you in the e-mail, if you use multiple coats (more than 2-3), like on a stock, extend the time allowed for it to fully cure before you even touch it. for just touching up a scratch I don't see why using a small fine artist type brush wouldn't work, I assumed you were talking about apply the finish to a larger surface, such as a stock or receiver. For just a touch-up a single light coat would probably be sufficient Thanks for your e-mail reply.
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Posted: 8/21/2010 5:18:23 PM EDT
[#17]
I got my parkerizing grey (not dark parkerizing grey) Aluma-Hyde the other day and applied it today. It's a PERFECT color match for U.S. Anodizing's/NoDak's XM grey. I'm quite pleased.
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Posted: 8/21/2010 5:21:04 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
I got my parkerizing grey (not dark parkerizing grey) Aluma-Hyde the other day and applied it today. It's a PERFECT color match for U.S. Anodizing's/NoDak's XM grey. I'm quite pleased. Cool. Glad that worked out for you. You did remember to take before and after pictures of the scratch, right? 
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Posted: 8/21/2010 5:21:55 PM EDT
[#19]
Come on Plink,you've been here long enough to know," it didn't happen without pics"
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Posted: 8/21/2010 5:30:22 PM EDT
[#20]
I didn't think to take pictures before I applied it, but I can get pictures of it tomorrow.
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Posted: 8/21/2010 5:35:28 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
I didn't think to take pictures before I applied it, but I can get pictures of it tomorrow. Well, don't expect me to scrape up one of my rifles just to provide the forum with a photo analysis.
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Posted: 8/21/2010 5:55:16 PM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I didn't think to take pictures before I applied it, but I can get pictures of it tomorrow. Well, don't expect me to scrape up one of my rifles just to provide the forum with a photo analysis. Please don't do that. My heart can't take much more of scratched rifles.
Those little dings are where the scratches were. That's what happens when you use the vise grip roll pin method.  Never again.
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:07:38 PM EDT
[#23]
Color looks good,but jeeze bro,what happened,did you forget to wrap a roll of tape around the jaws? You may well want to contact RLR350 and get one of those handy dandy assemble kits that include jaw covers.I've seen too damn many beat to crap bolt stop ears and areas around them.Tomorrow I will post my tried an true method,but only after you guys(you all know who I mean) go and order a kit from RL.Hey RL,keep me posted as to who all orders
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:09:14 PM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I didn't think to take pictures before I applied it, but I can get pictures of it tomorrow. Well, don't expect me to scrape up one of my rifles just to provide the forum with a photo analysis. Please don't do that. My heart can't take much more of scratched rifles.
Those little dings are where the scratches were. That's what happens when you use the vise grip roll pin method. Never again.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc145/dieselpowrguy85/AR-15/100_4218.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc145/dieselpowrguy85/AR-15/100_4219.jpg You are worried about that? Plinkster, enlist in the U.S. Army or Marine Corp and your OCD will be gone in no time. |
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:09:54 PM EDT
[#25]
Oh, I had plenty of tape on those vise grips, but the teeth bit through it anyway. The phrase "pissed off" doesn't even describe how I felt. I have since found a much better way to go about putting them in.
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:10:51 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
You are worried about that? Plinkster, enlist in the U.S. Army or Marine Corp and your OCD will be gone in no time. I've had OCD since early childhood. 
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:36:17 PM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
Color looks good,but jeeze bro,what happened,did you forget to wrap a roll of tape around the jaws? You may well want to contact RLR350 and get one of those handy dandy assemble kits that include jaw covers.I've seen too damn many beat to crap bolt stop ears and areas around them.Tomorrow I will post my tried an true method,but only after you guys(you all know who I mean) go and order a kit from RL.Hey RL,keep me posted as to who all orders I bought one of RL's kits.It's a handy little kit to have.I never have an issue with installing the bolt catch but I've done several M16's and people are always bringing their AR's by the shop for us to assemble so I guess I get plenty of practice.Oh and plinker don't worry about the scratch.It's hardly noticeable and you did a great job with the Aluma hyde II. |
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:41:28 PM EDT
[#28]
Quoted:
Quoted:
You are worried about that? Plinkster, enlist in the U.S. Army or Marine Corp and your OCD will be gone in no time. I've had OCD since early childhood.
Explain to us in detail how you tie your shoes.
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:43:19 PM EDT
[#29]
You could have just left it and used it for an "IDF build".
At least I think that's how it goes... |
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:44:16 PM EDT
[#30]
Thank you, armorer_91f.
And cda, it's weird that you ask that because I MUST tie my right boot first, and when I pull them off and put them away for the night, they must be side by side with the laces tightened and tucked inside. It's not near as bad as it was when I was a kid, though. |
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:52:56 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
Thank you, armorer_91f.
And cda, it's weird that you ask that because I MUST tie my right boot first, and when I pull them off and put them away for the night, they must be side by side with the laces tightened and tucked inside. It's not near as bad as it was when I was a kid, though. Plinker its funny that's how you put your boots up.We had to do the same thing in basic training.Now my boots get put where ever they happen to fall when I take them off. 
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Posted: 8/21/2010 6:53:41 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
Thank you, armorer_91f.
And cda, it's weird that you ask that because I MUST tie my right boot first, and when I pull them off and put them away for the night, they must be side by side with the laces tightened and tucked inside. It's not near as bad as it was when I was a kid, though. Well, let me slap you upside your head and see if it fixes your problem.
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Posted: 8/21/2010 9:15:31 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thank you, armorer_91f.
And cda, it's weird that you ask that because I MUST tie my right boot first, and when I pull them off and put them away for the night, they must be side by side with the laces tightened and tucked inside. It's not near as bad as it was when I was a kid, though. Plinker its funny that's how you put your boots up.We had to do the same thing in basic training.Now my boots get put where ever they happen to fall when I take them off. I've never been in the military (wish I was), but I just like to keep things uniform. Well, that and my dad (who was an M60 gunner back in the early 60's) taught me discipline from a very young age. Cda, a good slap just might do the trick.
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Posted: 8/22/2010 4:24:27 AM EDT
[#34]
I painted a plastic FAL stock with Alumahyde. After proper prep and some light scuffing that stuff seemed to have actually bonded into the plastic. Maybe the solvent was enough to temporarily gum it up while the paint cured and now it won't come off without removing plastic, too. I have not been terribly impressed with its durability on metal parts. Anodized aluminum has pretty good "tooth" to it so maybe it'll hold better. Fresh dry parkerizing would probably hold it OK, too.
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Posted: 8/22/2010 9:10:28 AM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
I painted a plastic FAL stock with Alumahyde. After proper prep and some light scuffing that stuff seemed to have actually bonded into the plastic. Maybe the solvent was enough to temporarily gum it up while the paint cured and now it won't come off without removing plastic, too. I have not been terribly impressed with its durability on metal parts. Anodized aluminum has pretty good "tooth" to it so maybe it'll hold better. Fresh dry parkerizing would probably hold it OK, too. Other members have told me that it takes two weeks to cure. |
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Posted: 8/22/2010 9:35:25 AM EDT
[#36]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I painted a plastic FAL stock with Alumahyde. After proper prep and some light scuffing that stuff seemed to have actually bonded into the plastic. Maybe the solvent was enough to temporarily gum it up while the paint cured and now it won't come off without removing plastic, too. I have not been terribly impressed with its durability on metal parts. Anodized aluminum has pretty good "tooth" to it so maybe it'll hold better. Fresh dry parkerizing would probably hold it OK, too. Other members have told me that it takes two weeks to cure. I know cracked said 2-3 weeks,but that was like 10 or 12 coats of the stuff for his car stock. |
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Posted: 8/22/2010 9:58:03 AM EDT
[#37]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I painted a plastic FAL stock with Alumahyde. After proper prep and some light scuffing that stuff seemed to have actually bonded into the plastic. Maybe the solvent was enough to temporarily gum it up while the paint cured and now it won't come off without removing plastic, too. I have not been terribly impressed with its durability on metal parts. Anodized aluminum has pretty good "tooth" to it so maybe it'll hold better. Fresh dry parkerizing would probably hold it OK, too. Other members have told me that it takes two weeks to cure. I know cracked said 2-3 weeks,but that was like 10 or 12 coats of the stuff for his car stock. Good point. Drying time won't matter to me anyways because that rifle will not be shot for a while. None of my AR's will. |
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Posted: 8/22/2010 2:56:06 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I painted a plastic FAL stock with Alumahyde. After proper prep and some light scuffing that stuff seemed to have actually bonded into the plastic. Maybe the solvent was enough to temporarily gum it up while the paint cured and now it won't come off without removing plastic, too. I have not been terribly impressed with its durability on metal parts. Anodized aluminum has pretty good "tooth" to it so maybe it'll hold better. Fresh dry parkerizing would probably hold it OK, too. Other members have told me that it takes two weeks to cure. I know cracked said 2-3 weeks,but that was like 10 or 12 coats of the stuff for his car stock. Good point. Drying time won't matter to me anyways because that rifle will not be shot for a while. None of my AR's will. I think as long as you did some good surface prep, by degreasing it well, you won't have any problems at all |
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Posted: 8/22/2010 4:23:30 PM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
I think as long as you did some good surface prep, by degreasing it well, you won't have any problems at all I used acetone to remove the Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black I had on there and to draw the oil out of the receiver. |
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Posted: 8/22/2010 5:10:27 PM EDT
[#40]
Thanks M1. The covered vise grips work great for the trigger guard, but I have found the best method for the bolt catch is a slabside roll pin punch from Brownell's. They run about $15 though and that is why they were never in the kits. If you use the vise grip method on the bolt catch chances are it will produce those scratches, especially if the vise grips are new with sharp teeth. They tend to eat through the covers and tape before you notice it. It's mostly caused by the small, angled boss causing the left side of the vise grips to roll and/or slide off when you apply pressure.
A cheap way to do it is drill a shallow hole in the end of a clevis pin or a door hinge pin and use it as a holder/punch. The hole in the clevis pin keeps it from slipping off the roll pin and gouging the lower. Also, I know you guys have built a lot more lowers than I have, but the one thing I find that helps the most is putting the front of the lower up against something solid when you are tapping the bolt catch roll pin. It provides a solid force to the pin and keeps the lower from bouncing around, reducing the risk of the punch slipping. Similar to removing FSB pins on a covered concrete base rather than on a flexible bench top. The slabside bolt catch punch is great for removing the pins, too. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26484/Product/BOLT_CATCH_PIN_PUNCH |
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