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Posted: 3/10/2011 8:41:55 PM EDT
So I've been reading threads on staking or not staking and to loctite or not to...
Would it be realistic to make a second nut that backs onto the original castle nut so it never comes loose? The second nut could be half the width or even 1/4 the width of the original castle nut and you could loctite that one with a dab which would make the original castle nut IMPOSSIBlE to back itself off... For some reason I don't see any point myself in staking a castle nut when it would take many things to happen before the buffer tube just up and fell off... Is this a stupid concept or am I just bored trying to think of dumb ideas... Don't worry I got thick skin. 
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Posted: 3/10/2011 8:50:07 PM EDT
[#1]
I think ACE sells two thin nuts so you can use them as a jam nut setup.
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Posted: 3/10/2011 9:39:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
I think ACE sells two thin nuts so you can use them as a jam nut setup. My buddy ran those and they worked fine. He gave me one of the rings but it wont work with a regular castle nut. There isnt enough room on the threads to install the tube properly. |
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Posted: 3/10/2011 9:44:21 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted: So I've been reading threads on staking or not staking and to loctite or not to... Would it be realistic to make a second nut that backs onto the original castle nut so it never comes loose? The second nut could be half the width or even 1/4 the width of the original castle nut and you could loctite that one with a dab which would make the original castle nut IMPOSSIBlE to back itself off... For some reason I don't see any point myself in staking a castle nut when it would take many things to happen before the buffer tube just up and fell off... Is this a stupid concept or am I just bored trying to think of dumb ideas... Don't worry I got thick skin. Keep in mind that IF the castle nut manages to work itself loose, it may only take a quarter turn of the buffer tube to release your buffer retainer inside the weapon. That would be bad. Take two minutes out of your day and stake the damn thing. |
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Posted: 3/10/2011 10:29:35 PM EDT
[#4]
I think that castle nut staking is the AR equivalent of using hot water to clean AKs after corrosive ammo use.
It's so simple that it just can't possibly be correct. It just can't. People are sweating balls trying to figure out a more complicated, more expensive, less reliable method. You put a punch on the end plate and give it one stiff blow with a hammer. That's it. Really. That's all it takes. |
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Posted: 3/10/2011 11:22:56 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
So I've been reading threads on staking or not staking and to loctite or not to... Would it be realistic to make a second nut that backs onto the original castle nut so it never comes loose? The second nut could be half the width or even 1/4 the width of the original castle nut and you could loctite that one with a dab which would make the original castle nut IMPOSSIBlE to back itself off... For some reason I don't see any point myself in staking a castle nut when it would take many things to happen before the buffer tube just up and fell off... Is this a stupid concept or am I just bored trying to think of dumb ideas... Don't worry I got thick skin. With all due respect, it is a "dumb" idea. Having a nut on the back of the castle nut may keep your stock from collapsing all the way (depending on how thick the nut is) Why not just properly stake the castle nut? It's very easy to do. Go to your local hardware store and buy an automatic prick punch. Depress the prick punch on the proper area of the castle nut about 10 times and your done. No hammer needed! The job is very simple to do. Once you do one, you won't believe how easy it is. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 2:25:44 AM EDT
[#6]
Wouldnt it be easier if, after you settled on a latch plate just use a center punch to stake it?
All I do is periodically check mine with a wrench. Only ever had one that liked to loosen ever so slightly in my lifetime. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 2:59:14 AM EDT
[#7]
Wow. I have never had a castle nut back off and I dont use staking or loctite. I just simply tighten the thing on.
Yes, My guns actually get ran too. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 3:42:17 AM EDT
[#8]
I currently loctite and prefer this to staking. I think the ACE method of using two nuts is even slicker though.
Staking is not the be all, end all best solution. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 4:12:33 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Wow. I have never had a castle nut back off and I dont use staking or loctite. I just simply tighten the thing on. Yes, My guns actually get ran too. This. If you torque it down properly, it will stay torqued 99.9% of the time. Whenever I mention this I get the  .
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Posted: 3/11/2011 5:09:03 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
dumb ideas +1 |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 5:12:37 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Whenever I mention this I get the .
 I fail to see why so many "operators" want to avoid bending a little metal. WTF?
Same with Moly Grease on the barrel nut. People will go to great lengths to justify using the wrong thing for the job. 
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Posted: 3/11/2011 5:21:16 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
I think that castle nut staking is the AR equivalent of using hot water to clean AKs after corrosive ammo use. It's so simple that it just can't possibly be correct. It just can't. People are sweating balls trying to figure out a more complicated, more expensive, less reliable method. You put a punch on the end plate and give it one stiff blow with a hammer. That's it. Really. That's all it takes. This comment made a little pee dribble out.... |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 5:32:24 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Keep in mind that IF the castle nut manages to work itself loose, it may only take a quarter turn of the buffer tube to release your buffer retainer inside the weapon. That would be bad. Take two minutes out of your day and stake the damn thing. I've only seen it happen once on the range, and once off the range. Its a game stopping event, there is no question about it. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 6:50:29 AM EDT
[#14]
How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing?
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Posted: 3/11/2011 7:00:29 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted: Quoted: Keep in mind that IF the castle nut manages to work itself loose, it may only take a quarter turn of the buffer tube to release your buffer retainer inside the weapon. That would be bad. Take two minutes out of your day and stake the damn thing. I've only seen it happen once on the range, and once off the range. Its a game stopping event, there is no question about it. Yep, you are out of commission if this happens. I have seen the buffer retainer bend or break on numerous occasions which will also ruin your day. Most of my lowers do not have a buffer retainer because of this. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 7:01:14 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted: How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing? With a wrench, its no problem. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 7:15:03 AM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Keep in mind that IF the castle nut manages to work itself loose, it may only take a quarter turn of the buffer tube to release your buffer retainer inside the weapon. That would be bad. Take two minutes out of your day and stake the damn thing. I've only seen it happen once on the range, and once off the range. Its a game stopping event, there is no question about it. Yep, you are out of commission if this happens. I have seen the buffer retainer bend or break on numerous occasions which will also ruin your day. Most of my lowers do not have a buffer retainer because of this. does that make it more difficult to dissasemble/assemble or is it not enough to worry about? |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 7:15:14 AM EDT
[#18]
A while back I saw a 2-piece castle nut, basically two thin jamb nuts that added up to the thickness of a standard castle nut.
I stake mine... |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 8:01:46 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
does that make it more difficult to dissasemble/assemble or is it not enough to worry about? Do you mean if the castle nut is staked, or do you mean if the buffer tube/ receiver extension rotates and lets the pin out? |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 8:13:38 AM EDT
[#20]
buffer retainer is a nice to have, but not needed item.
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Posted: 3/11/2011 8:16:16 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
I fail to see why so many "operators" want to avoid bending a little metal. WTF?
Because people who talk on the phone for a living dont want to mar up their guns. 
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Posted: 3/11/2011 8:53:22 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Quoted:
How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing? With a proper wrench, its no problem. Fixed. 
Some folks really are penny-wise and dollar foolish. They'll buy a receiver extension for $35, some HSLD stock for $125, and then bitch about a $6 wrench and $5 punch. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 8:55:48 AM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
Keep in mind that IF the castle nut manages to work itself loose, it may only take a quarter turn of the buffer tube to release your buffer retainer inside the weapon. That would be bad. Take two minutes out of your day and stake the damn thing. That's a 16 TPI thread. A quarter turn will back it out .0156". If that's all the overlap you have on the retainer, chances are your weapon isn't assembled properly anyway. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 8:55:50 AM EDT
[#24]
I just put a bit of locktite on it and torqued it to spec. It's not going to come loose and even if it DOES somehow vibrate loose just a bit it's not coming apart in moments. I check over my rifle every time I clean it, so if it wiggled loose during use it'd be noticed later that day and fixed. It's not going to come loose fast enough to cause a problem even with no locktite and no staking. Personally, I didn't stake because I know I'll be changing the tube sometime in the next few months. After I change it I may stake it or may not. Might just depend on whether the locktite's handy at the time.
As for how much of a turn it takes to become a problem, how exactly is my buffer tube going to turn? My castle nut would have to back off enough for the backplate to come free and THEN the whole thing has to turn. I don't know about you guys, but I don't see that as real likely unless the castle nut isn't torqued properly even without any extra security like staking or locktite. I wouldn't want to have it start coming loose in the field, but outside of extended combat it's not the end of the world even if it started loosening. Grab it, turn it snug, shoot some more, if it loosens again, repeat as needed. I'm not a soldier, if I have to use my AR somewhere other than the range or hunting then it's unlikely to be an extended affair with hundreds of rounds fired, if somehow my castle nut starts coming loose and I can't be bothered to hand tighten it for a while I'll just have to avoid turning my stock in circles once the end plate pops free. I think if my luck's that bad I'm probably dead anyway. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 8:55:56 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing? With a proper wrench, its no problem. Fixed.
Some folks really are penny-wise and dollar foolish. They'll buy a receiver extension for $35, some HSLD stock for $125, and then bitch about a $6 wrench and $5 punch. Shit, I just bought that wrench. Is it a good quality one? I literally ordered it 5 mins ago. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 9:00:34 AM EDT
[#26]
Quoted: I think that castle nut staking is the AR equivalent of using hot water to clean AKs after corrosive ammo use. It's so simple that it just can't possibly be correct. It just can't. People are sweating balls trying to figure out a more complicated, more expensive, less reliable method. You put a punch on the end plate and give it one stiff blow with a hammer. That's it. Really. That's all it takes. Werd. With my vice and chisel I'm a staking machine. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 9:42:56 AM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
Quoted:
How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing? With a wrench, its no problem. If the staking's really heavy you can take a dremel with a fine burr bit and eat away the excess. I had to do that on my S&W. Even if you go a bit far and it looks nasty (and you care) a replacement castle nut's and/or back plate isn't expensive. It's not like you'd be doing this constantly. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 10:20:05 AM EDT
[#28]
I've seen a receiver end plate sling mount (don't recall maker) it was a HK loop attachment, where the castle nut back off a little bit, receiver extension turned, and so did the plate. buffer retainer got loose, and the detent for the rear pin shot out. It was a bad situation.
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Posted: 3/11/2011 10:47:56 AM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Some folks really are penny-wise and dollar foolish. They'll buy a receiver extension for $35, some HSLD stock for $125, and then bitch about a $6 wrench and $5 punch. Shit, I just bought that wrench. Is it a good quality one? I literally ordered it 5 mins ago. It's on my list of things to order from Brownells. I hear it's better than the cheapo 1-prong spanners out there, which is what I currently have. The intent of my post was that people bitch about buying inexpensive tools, not about those specific products.
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Posted: 3/11/2011 11:07:53 AM EDT
[#30]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing? With a proper wrench, its no problem. Fixed.
Some folks really are penny-wise and dollar foolish. They'll buy a receiver extension for $35, some HSLD stock for $125, and then bitch about a $6 wrench and $5 punch. Shit, I just bought that wrench. Is it a good quality one? I literally ordered it 5 mins ago. Not to mention about $11 for a castle nut AND back plate...
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Posted: 3/11/2011 12:17:11 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
I just put a bit of locktite on it and torqued it to spec. It's not going to come loose and even if it DOES somehow vibrate loose just a bit it's not coming apart in moments. I check over my rifle every time I clean it, so if it wiggled loose during use it'd be noticed later that day and fixed. It's not going to come loose fast enough to cause a problem even with no locktite and no staking. Personally, I didn't stake because I know I'll be changing the tube sometime in the next few months. After I change it I may stake it or may not. Might just depend on whether the locktite's handy at the time. As for how much of a turn it takes to become a problem, how exactly is my buffer tube going to turn? My castle nut would have to back off enough for the backplate to come free and THEN the whole thing has to turn. I don't know about you guys, but I don't see that as real likely unless the castle nut isn't torqued properly even without any extra security like staking or locktite. I wouldn't want to have it start coming loose in the field, but outside of extended combat it's not the end of the world even if it started loosening. Grab it, turn it snug, shoot some more, if it loosens again, repeat as needed. I'm not a soldier, if I have to use my AR somewhere other than the range or hunting then it's unlikely to be an extended affair with hundreds of rounds fired, if somehow my castle nut starts coming loose and I can't be bothered to hand tighten it for a while I'll just have to avoid turning my stock in circles once the end plate pops free. I think if my luck's that bad I'm probably dead anyway. Careful with the gratuitously applied logic on this forum. A lot of folks just won't be able to relate to it. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 12:32:01 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I just put a bit of locktite on it and torqued it to spec. It's not going to come loose and even if it DOES somehow vibrate loose just a bit it's not coming apart in moments. I check over my rifle every time I clean it, so if it wiggled loose during use it'd be noticed later that day and fixed. It's not going to come loose fast enough to cause a problem even with no locktite and no staking. Personally, I didn't stake because I know I'll be changing the tube sometime in the next few months. After I change it I may stake it or may not. Might just depend on whether the locktite's handy at the time. As for how much of a turn it takes to become a problem, how exactly is my buffer tube going to turn? My castle nut would have to back off enough for the backplate to come free and THEN the whole thing has to turn. I don't know about you guys, but I don't see that as real likely unless the castle nut isn't torqued properly even without any extra security like staking or locktite. I wouldn't want to have it start coming loose in the field, but outside of extended combat it's not the end of the world even if it started loosening. Grab it, turn it snug, shoot some more, if it loosens again, repeat as needed. I'm not a soldier, if I have to use my AR somewhere other than the range or hunting then it's unlikely to be an extended affair with hundreds of rounds fired, if somehow my castle nut starts coming loose and I can't be bothered to hand tighten it for a while I'll just have to avoid turning my stock in circles once the end plate pops free. I think if my luck's that bad I'm probably dead anyway. Careful with the gratuitously applied logic on this forum. A lot of folks just won't be able to relate to it. lol, yeah, but it can be amusing. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 12:35:42 PM EDT
[#33]
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Posted: 3/11/2011 12:54:11 PM EDT
[#34]
I don't believe in wrenches, staking, or locktite since I'm not a soldier.
I just tighten everything hand tight. It isn't really a problem on the range. Every few rounds I just check things and re-tighten by hand. I have a little list to remind me what to tighten every 4 rounds. 1. barrel nut 2. gas key 3. ff rail screws 4. castle nut 5. optic mount 6. hand grip ... If I ever want to take my rifle apart, it will be real easy. I am considering taking some of those pesky pins out of my rifle too, since an interference fit should be good enough for me. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 12:58:11 PM EDT
[#35]
If you are going to loctite the second nut, why not just loctite the first one and be done with.
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Posted: 3/11/2011 1:18:46 PM EDT
[#36]
Quoted:
I don't believe in wrenches, staking, or locktite since I'm not a soldier. I just tighten everything hand tight. It isn't really a problem on the range. Every few rounds I just check things and re-tighten by hand. I have a little list to remind me what to tighten every 4 rounds. 1. barrel nut 2. gas key 3. ff rail screws 4. castle nut 5. optic mount 6. hand grip ... If I ever want to take my rifle apart, it will be real easy. I am considering taking some of those pesky pins out of my rifle too, since an interference fit should be good enough for me. lol, let's just hand tighten the barrel too, or maybe we should stake that? Seriously folks, don't get me wrong here. If you don't have any reason NOT to stake it, go ahead, no reason not to and it's a nice easy way to make sure the part won't loosen. BUT let's not assume that anything not staked will magically come loose, spin a few rotations and then have the user get stupid with the stock too. I never suggested hand tight for anything, simply that if it DID come loose in the field it is not a part that requires significant torque to do its job short term. As for the rest, are you careless enough that you DON'T check your guns for problems when you clean them? Shit happens. Things come loose, things break, cracks develop.... I'm not saying we have to do a detailed examination every time we give it a wipe down, but if I'm field stripping it to clean I might as well check the basics, including things that are staked. The reason for staking the castle nut is simple. In the day to day use of the rifle, particularly in the military where an armorer is the only one who should be messing with it, there's no reason to loosen that part and every reason to make sure it stays tight. Staking's a perfect solution. Is staking more secure than loctite? Probably, but with the permanent stuff it might be interesting to compare a normal staking job with the loctite in terms of force needed to break it loose. I use the standard stuff, since I just don't want mine coming loose under normal use. It works. Feel free to stake, use bubblegum, loctite, epoxy, superglue, teflon tape, nothing, or all of the above if it makes you feel better. 
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Posted: 3/11/2011 1:24:35 PM EDT
[#37]
Quoted:
How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing? It's very easy, you use the same torque wrench to take it off as you would to install it. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 1:26:25 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
If you are going to loctite the second nut, why not just loctite the first one and be done with. If you go the Loctite route, use the blue one (Loctite 242, or equivalent) which is removable with hand tools. The red stuff requires several hundred degrees of heat to remove. Also, you don't need much - just a drop. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 1:30:02 PM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing? With a wrench, its no problem. If the staking's really heavy you can take a dremel with a fine burr bit and eat away the excess. I had to do that on my S&W. Even if you go a bit far and it looks nasty (and you care) a replacement castle nut's and/or back plate isn't expensive. It's not like you'd be doing this constantly. I have yet to see a need for that, staking has always come off easy. But I guess it depends on what tools you are using. I use the Hamer Head Tool and apply the torque wrench. Everything comes off easy. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 1:34:16 PM EDT
[#40]
Quoted:
Quoted:
How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing? It's very easy, you use the same torque wrench to take it off as you would to install it. Yep, use the Hammer Head Rifle Tool with a torque wrench and it comes off just as easy as it goes on. This tool also allows you to properly torqe to 40Ft/Ibs. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 1:36:27 PM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I fail to see why so many "operators" want to avoid bending a little metal. WTF?
Because people who talk on the phone for a living dont want to mar up their guns.
I think BeerBender was talking about YOU.
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Posted: 3/11/2011 1:41:39 PM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I just put a bit of locktite on it and torqued it to spec. It's not going to come loose and even if it DOES somehow vibrate loose just a bit it's not coming apart in moments. I check over my rifle every time I clean it, so if it wiggled loose during use it'd be noticed later that day and fixed. It's not going to come loose fast enough to cause a problem even with no locktite and no staking. Personally, I didn't stake because I know I'll be changing the tube sometime in the next few months. After I change it I may stake it or may not. Might just depend on whether the locktite's handy at the time. As for how much of a turn it takes to become a problem, how exactly is my buffer tube going to turn? My castle nut would have to back off enough for the backplate to come free and THEN the whole thing has to turn. I don't know about you guys, but I don't see that as real likely unless the castle nut isn't torqued properly even without any extra security like staking or locktite. I wouldn't want to have it start coming loose in the field, but outside of extended combat it's not the end of the world even if it started loosening. Grab it, turn it snug, shoot some more, if it loosens again, repeat as needed. I'm not a soldier, if I have to use my AR somewhere other than the range or hunting then it's unlikely to be an extended affair with hundreds of rounds fired, if somehow my castle nut starts coming loose and I can't be bothered to hand tighten it for a while I'll just have to avoid turning my stock in circles once the end plate pops free. I think if my luck's that bad I'm probably dead anyway. Careful with the gratuitously applied logic on this forum. A lot of folks just won't be able to relate to it. Logic is doing it the proper way, since it's so damn easy. If you change your tube that much, than you shouldn't have to worry about a 10 dollar end plate. There is a proper way to build a lower and an improper/hack/slap job way of building a lower. Loctite is the improper/hack/slap job way of building the lower. If a person can't do something as simple as properly torquing and staking the castle nut, they probably shouldn't be building the lower in the first place. If you can install the bolt catch roll pin without messing up your receiver, than you can surely stake your castle nut. Step 1: After torquing the castle nut to 40Ft./Ibs, go buy an automatic punch from your hardware store. 
Step 2: Align punch with castle nut hole on metal end plate and push down. No hammer needed! It may take 10 or more press downs on the punch. 
Step 3: Enjoy your nice stake job. 
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Posted: 3/11/2011 2:38:51 PM EDT
[#43]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How easy is it to get the castlenut off if it was staked? That would be my issue. What if you wanted to change your stock setup or something else happened to the buffer tube and it needed replacing? With a proper wrench, its no problem. Fixed.
Some folks really are penny-wise and dollar foolish. They'll buy a receiver extension for $35, some HSLD stock for $125, and then bitch about a $6 wrench and $5 punch. Shit, I just bought that wrench. Is it a good quality one? I literally ordered it 5 mins ago. I have used that one for years with no problems. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 3:02:39 PM EDT
[#44]
How many of you guys that install these things actually TORQUE them?
Put your lower between your legs and give your stock a twist. If it moves, which I'm betting 80% of the lowers built on this site will, you didn't torque it enough. Stake it, and be done. If you have a lower vise, prick punch and a hammer, you can do it yourself. The pictures above show this perfectly. If you are taking your gun apart, you should have the tools to reassemble it properly. Torque will solve 99% of your problems on a castle nut, and a stake job will solve the last 1%. If you don't torque it, the stock will end up rotating and the locking key on your end plate will tear up your tube. DO IT RIGHT. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 3:16:32 PM EDT
[#45]
Its real simple wether plinking or running the rifle hard and carrying it..theres a right way and wrong way to build a rifle.For the castle nut staking is the right way and not staking and loc tite the wrong way.staking can be more easily broken than loc-tite and not staking eventually hand tight will become loose through vibration and use.
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Posted: 3/11/2011 4:48:06 PM EDT
[#46]
Quoted:
If you go the Loctite route, use the blue one (Loctite 242, or equivalent) which is removable with hand tools. The red stuff requires several hundred degrees of heat to remove. Also, you don't need much - just a drop. Gas key, stake the hell out of it! Buffer tube, meh. A drop of blue Loctite on the lower threads, and one under the castle nut, torque well and it ain't moving. It's probably tougher to remove than staking, but if the argument is that it will fail I doubt it. If the castle nut comes loose the buffer tube is still loctited anyway. If I have a punch close, I'll stake it. If I have blue stuff at hand, I loctite it. It makes no difference to me, and I've never had one come loose either. Wait, isn't this the Tuesday discussion. Its Friday!
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Posted: 3/11/2011 5:10:00 PM EDT
[#47]
How do the automatic prick punches work? Do you even need a hammer for it?
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Posted: 3/11/2011 6:02:25 PM EDT
[#48]
Quoted:
How do the automatic prick punches work? Do you even need a hammer for it? Nope, I bought one at harbor freight for $5, put it near the edge of the end plate right by the little notch in the castle nut, and push, I hit mine in the same spot 3 times and its perfect. |
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Posted: 3/11/2011 6:51:36 PM EDT
[#49]
Quoted:
How many of you guys that install these things actually TORQUE them? Put your lower between your legs and give your stock a twist. If it moves, which I'm betting 80% of the lowers built on this site will, you didn't torque it enough. Stake it, and be done. If you have a lower vise, prick punch and a hammer, you can do it yourself. The pictures above show this perfectly. If you are taking your gun apart, you should have the tools to reassemble it properly. Torque will solve 99% of your problems on a castle nut, and a stake job will solve the last 1%. If you don't torque it, the stock will end up rotating and the locking key on your end plate will tear up your tube. DO IT RIGHT. I have never NOT properly torqued it to 40 Ft. pounds. Been doing it since build #1. |
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Posted: 3/12/2011 9:53:32 AM EDT
[#50]
Maaaan my head hurts... Too many beers. Looks like this is one of those discussions... "to stake or not to stake, that is the question"
I'm sure tha majority of us own these guns for rec use unless you fall under military, I personally for home defense am not grabbing my AR if something goes south in my home... Staking is not the end all solution and neither is locktite.... BUT if blue locktite didn't work then their CEO is in the wrong business. I've never read any posts where a guy was saying, "man... I locktite-ed the shit outta my gun and it just up n'fell apart!". I'm personally not going to take a spring loaded center punch to my gun just because the military uses that method to keep the castle nut in place. Hell might as well stake the trigger somehow so it doesn't come loose, or the end of the barrel so bullets can't get out. |
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