User Panel
This is turning into an awesome thread. Will you go into your procedure for installing the barrel? Im sure you probably true them as you are more than happy to mill everything else but what grease do you use and then at what psf do you use when tightening down.
Thanks for all the cool info. I am trying to squeeze more accuracy out of my maten and am always open for some voodoo ideas. eta post again so you have a second post to add to you are going to run out of room very soon. |
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Geronimo
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Oh man, you're going to owe me a couple of new rifles for posting this. I own a drill AND a dremel!
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I've read through the whole thing. Fml. I was looking for lapping compound at home depot. Subscibed.
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"No bastard ever won a war by dying for his country. He won it by making the other poor dumb bastard die for his country." George S. Patton
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Originally Posted By nickforney:
This is turning into an awesome thread. Will you go into your procedure for installing the barrel? Im sure you probably true them as you are more than happy to mill everything else but what grease do you use and then at what psf do you use when tightening down. Thanks for all the cool info. I am trying to squeeze more accuracy out of my maten and am always open for some voodoo ideas. eta post again so you have a second post to add to you are going to run out of room very soon. View Quote First, true the receiver face so the barrel will sit perfectly flush. I've never had Brad build me an AR10 mine he's worked on is an AR15. He has a lapping tool that fits into his lathe for the process. If you don't have access to a machine shop, brownells sells a handheld tool Brownells Just use standard moly grease nothin fancy and torque to standard milspec level. I've written down what ft/lbs he uses but I can't find my notes right now. The numbers are standard though. This combined with stainless shim to remove any and all play will ensure your upper to be perfectly aligned with no wobble. |
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Or the legal liability when said pissed off to high holy fuck badger comes crashing down. It would be like the unplanned rectal abortion of satan himself raining down upon someone. There would be....ramifications. --PeteCO
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Originally Posted By wheelchairman:
First, true the receiver face so the barrel will sit perfectly flush. I've never had Brad build me an AR10 mine he's worked on is an AR15. He has a lapping tool that fits into his lathe for the process. If you don't have access to a machine shop, brownells sells a handheld tool Brownells Just use standard moly grease nothin fancy and torque to standard milspec level. I've written down what ft/lbs he uses but I can't find my notes right now. The numbers are standard though. This combined with stainless shim to remove any and all play will ensure your upper to be perfectly aligned with no wobble. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By wheelchairman:
Originally Posted By nickforney:
This is turning into an awesome thread. Will you go into your procedure for installing the barrel? Im sure you probably true them as you are more than happy to mill everything else but what grease do you use and then at what psf do you use when tightening down. Thanks for all the cool info. I am trying to squeeze more accuracy out of my maten and am always open for some voodoo ideas. eta post again so you have a second post to add to you are going to run out of room very soon. First, true the receiver face so the barrel will sit perfectly flush. I've never had Brad build me an AR10 mine he's worked on is an AR15. He has a lapping tool that fits into his lathe for the process. If you don't have access to a machine shop, brownells sells a handheld tool Brownells Just use standard moly grease nothin fancy and torque to standard milspec level. I've written down what ft/lbs he uses but I can't find my notes right now. The numbers are standard though. This combined with stainless shim to remove any and all play will ensure your upper to be perfectly aligned with no wobble. I have that facing tool from Brownells and it works quite well. I've found that it only takes a few minutes to go from 50% of the face touching the barrel to 100% touching on most recievers. Some come right from the factory perfect, but not very many. Mag Tactical did, and the extensions fit snug and cleanly. I honestly think the Mag Tac upper would be a good precision upper. While I haven't polished the lugs on the bolt like you've shown, I have stoned the extension down to keep it from slicing the brass as badly. I have a small selection of stones and I just go slow and try to break the edges of the feed ramps on the extension, especially the knob between them. Great thread, thanks. |
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Why should the shim stock seam be on the side and not the top/bottom?
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I'm Hellbender from the Hide and I wrote the above articles several years ago.
Thank you wheelchairman for saving these posts. I don't post much anymore, as my life is very busy. I will try to keep an eye on these posts and answer questions as I get the time. Chris, the reason I put the seam on the side is most of the pressure from loading the bipod, laying on barricades, sandbags, etc. is up and down, not side to side. Does it REALLY matter?? Probably not, but seems to make sense to me. The hand guard takes a lot of whacks during use, and most of these are up and down. |
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Can this be made into a sticky ?
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Is there any harm in an interference fit between the upper and barrel extension? If so, which part would you machine to get that close slip fit?
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Insert witty comment
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Originally Posted By Lostinthewoods:
I'm Hellbender from the Hide and I wrote the above articles several years ago. Thank you wheelchairman for saving these posts. I don't post much anymore, as my life is very busy. I will try to keep an eye on these posts and answer questions as I get the time. Chris, the reason I put the seam on the side is most of the pressure from loading the bipod, laying on barricades, sandbags, etc. is up and down, not side to side. Does it REALLY matter?? Probably not, but seems to make sense to me. The hand guard takes a lot of whacks during use, and most of these are up and down. View Quote Thanks! I'm thinking of pulling one of my barrels that I haven't gotten great groups with and trying this. I agree with you about whether it REALLY matters, yeah probably not. In my mind, I would think top/bottom would make more sense because as the barrel heats up and transfers heat to the shim and upper receiver, these three components will all heat/cool at different rates, potentially causing some different stressors. If this were to occur, I would rather have the shift in POI be a vertical string (a very slight one hopefully) rather than a horizontal one. Either way, I don't think this amount of tension would have a noticeable affect, especially if you cut it as precise as possible and have a very slim seam. Also, I have a FF tube that takes most of the abuse instead of the barrel itself. Anyways, I appreciate your response and your insight. I needed someone to confirm that this is a good method (the shimming). I first caught wind of this method when someone from this forum posted this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJL-IscH_jo |
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Originally Posted By Tweeder:
Is there any harm in an interference fit between the upper and barrel extension? If so, which part would you machine to get that close slip fit? View Quote A slight interference fit is fine, as long as it's not more then what you could install by heating the upper to 200 degrees or so. If it was more than that, I would machine the bbl. extension, I don't like to remove the anodizing anywhere I don't have to. The extension would be easier to cut down, anyway. |
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Going to read when I get home. |
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"When the Government Fears the People, There is Liberty; When the People Fear the Government, There is Tyranny." - Thomas Jefferson
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Fear is the foundation of most governments.
TN, USA
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Great info, especially on the barrel extension shim. I have never seen that idea presented before.
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how many times a week do you married guys get to clap them cheeks? noymisayn?
-blackrage- |
Originally Posted By wheelchairman:
First, true the receiver face so the barrel will sit perfectly flush. I've never had Brad build me an AR10 mine he's worked on is an AR15. He has a lapping tool that fits into his lathe for the process. If you don't have access to a machine shop, brownells sells a handheld tool Brownells Just use standard moly grease nothin fancy and torque to standard milspec level. I've written down what ft/lbs he uses but I can't find my notes right now. The numbers are standard though. This combined with stainless shim to remove any and all play will ensure your upper to be perfectly aligned with no wobble. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By wheelchairman:
Originally Posted By nickforney:
This is turning into an awesome thread. Will you go into your procedure for installing the barrel? Im sure you probably true them as you are more than happy to mill everything else but what grease do you use and then at what psf do you use when tightening down. Thanks for all the cool info. I am trying to squeeze more accuracy out of my maten and am always open for some voodoo ideas. eta post again so you have a second post to add to you are going to run out of room very soon. First, true the receiver face so the barrel will sit perfectly flush. I've never had Brad build me an AR10 mine he's worked on is an AR15. He has a lapping tool that fits into his lathe for the process. If you don't have access to a machine shop, brownells sells a handheld tool Brownells Just use standard moly grease nothin fancy and torque to standard milspec level. I've written down what ft/lbs he uses but I can't find my notes right now. The numbers are standard though. This combined with stainless shim to remove any and all play will ensure your upper to be perfectly aligned with no wobble. Using the brownells tool for squaring the face of the receiver where the barrel mates into it, does the tool end up changing the inner dimensiion at all with the tool running inside? I have an upper and barrel that are a very tight fit and didn't want to create a situation where the tolerances increaseed and then need shimming. Trying to understand which operation is more important to accuracy, the barrel/ receiver fit or the absolute squareness of the face of the receiver. In a perfect world,both, I am sure .... but don't want to try to fix something that might not be broken and end up creating worsened tolerances elsewhere. Thanks |
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Does the lapping tool work on AR15 and AR10/LR308 uppers? I'm tempted to buy one and give it a try.
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I AM DARREN WILSON
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Originally Posted By oryx:
Using the brownells tool for squaring the face of the receiver where the barrel mates into it, does the tool end up changing the inner dimensiion at all with the tool running inside? I have an upper and barrel that are a very tight fit and didn't want to create a situation where the tolerances increaseed and then need shimming. Trying to understand which operation is more important to accuracy, the barrel/ receiver fit or the absolute squareness of the face of the receiver. In a perfect world,both, I am sure .... but don't want to try to fix something that might not be broken and end up creating worsened tolerances elsewhere. Thanks View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By oryx:
Originally Posted By wheelchairman:
Originally Posted By nickforney:
This is turning into an awesome thread. Will you go into your procedure for installing the barrel? Im sure you probably true them as you are more than happy to mill everything else but what grease do you use and then at what psf do you use when tightening down. Thanks for all the cool info. I am trying to squeeze more accuracy out of my maten and am always open for some voodoo ideas. eta post again so you have a second post to add to you are going to run out of room very soon. First, true the receiver face so the barrel will sit perfectly flush. I've never had Brad build me an AR10 mine he's worked on is an AR15. He has a lapping tool that fits into his lathe for the process. If you don't have access to a machine shop, brownells sells a handheld tool Brownells Just use standard moly grease nothin fancy and torque to standard milspec level. I've written down what ft/lbs he uses but I can't find my notes right now. The numbers are standard though. This combined with stainless shim to remove any and all play will ensure your upper to be perfectly aligned with no wobble. Using the brownells tool for squaring the face of the receiver where the barrel mates into it, does the tool end up changing the inner dimensiion at all with the tool running inside? I have an upper and barrel that are a very tight fit and didn't want to create a situation where the tolerances increaseed and then need shimming. Trying to understand which operation is more important to accuracy, the barrel/ receiver fit or the absolute squareness of the face of the receiver. In a perfect world,both, I am sure .... but don't want to try to fix something that might not be broken and end up creating worsened tolerances elsewhere. Thanks It should not remove any material where there isn't lapping compound. I put a coat of oil on the part that enters the upper. Worked fine for the five ARs I've done it to. |
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"They pray to their god for help in cutting our throats, and we want to chat."
Col. Ralph Peters (retired) |
Originally Posted By hdbiker1:
As far as I know, a lapping tool for the heavy platform ARs doesn't exist for sale by anyone at this point. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By hdbiker1:
Originally Posted By mattf26:
Does the lapping tool work on AR15 and AR10/LR308 uppers? I'm tempted to buy one and give it a try. As far as I know, a lapping tool for the heavy platform ARs doesn't exist for sale by anyone at this point. I think you are correct. I had to make one for my .308 |
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"They pray to their god for help in cutting our throats, and we want to chat."
Col. Ralph Peters (retired) |
I wish this would be made to a sticky
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Useful thread here.
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I can't add much to some of the topics here, but my first ar I polished the sliding surfaces of the bolt carrier, hammer, etc then treated them with a metal treatment to enhance lubricity of the metal.
The rifle felt like it was riding on ball bearings when you pull the charging handle. A big contrast to some of the factory rifles that feel like sand is in the action when you pull the bolt back. Did it enhance reliability? I don't know for sure, but it sure feels better than it did before. |
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Great thread.
Txl |
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The new racism is anything that might hurt a Democrat politically..
Defund the army. The Free Shit Army, that is... |
NRA Endowment / Life Member since '85
" A Foolish Faith In Authority Is The Worst Enemy Of The Truth" - Albert Einstein |
The only thing i would change is the method for polishing a chamber.
Instead of the mop, emery paper etc. I use a case fired from that chamber. Pop the primer open the flash hole (not too much) just enough so a dremel polishing pad's mandrel threads in to the hole. I then use Colgate White toothpaste (none of this extra bright, high what ever) basic colgate. FWIW: it's an old smith trick for cleaning up revolver actions. ANYWAY ...................... mandrel is secure in brass case, toothpaste rubbed on the case. Dremel mandrel secure in dremel flex extension. place a cotton ball or piece of rag in the barrel, to minimize debris from the bbl. Run the case in chamber 2-3x. Wipe out chamber, inspect rinse & repeat 1 maybe 2 more times. There's no need to get carried away. That case was fired and formed to that chamber. After it's done a good cleaning of the chamber area and barrel, completes the job You could also use a section of cleaning rod IF you don't have the dremel and or accessories for them. |
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Children are the most complex creations made by unskilled labor.
NRA member and I VOTE |
Originally Posted By LRRPF52:
I've been following these techniques for a while as well. I remember the original thread on SH. I also follow Robert Whitley's accuracy enhancement guide. The difference is basically hand-fitting and polishing all the points of conflict, versus slapping parts together. Here's a Krieger barrel that I did for a friend of mine. He was only getting 1.5" groups at 100yds at best. Barrel needed bedding to the upper, and the gas system needed work, with an ArmaLite tube vs, the AR15 that was in it, DPMS aluminum gas block needed replacement, etc. Before: http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j422/LRRPF52/20150127_2223231_zpsuhdmsnnt.jpg http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j422/LRRPF52/20150127_2223351_zps9evcercm.jpg After: http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j422/LRRPF52/20150127_2234041_zpsjlvywxqp.jpg http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j422/LRRPF52/20150127_2233571_zpsfc1dub7e.jpg You can see some ugly tool marks that showed up, but are inconsequential to function and accuracy. I wasn't too impressed with that extension aesthetically, but after all the work I did, the gun shoots into the .6's with a random 155gr SMK load he had, 5rd groups. View Quote You messed up that Krieger! |
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Originally Posted By jim:
The only thing i would change is the method for polishing a chamber. Instead of the mop, emery paper etc. I use a case fired from that chamber. Pop the primer open the flash hole (not too much) just enough so a dremel polishing pad's mandrel threads in to the hole. I then use Colgate White toothpaste (none of this extra bright, high what ever) basic colgate. FWIW: it's an old smith trick for cleaning up revolver actions. ANYWAY ...................... mandrel is secure in brass case, toothpaste rubbed on the case. Dremel mandrel secure in dremel flex extension. place a cotton ball or piece of rag in the barrel, to minimize debris from the bbl. Run the case in chamber 2-3x. Wipe out chamber, inspect rinse & repeat 1 maybe 2 more times. There's no need to get carried away. That case was fired and formed to that chamber. After it's done a good cleaning of the chamber area and barrel, completes the job You could also use a section of cleaning rod IF you don't have the dremel and or accessories for them. View Quote Why would polishing a chamber be necessary? Considering the 'precision' application Serious question; I'm not trying to be a smart*ss. Just trying to add to my ever-growing quest for knowledge |
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Originally Posted By Renn:
You messed up that Krieger! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Renn:
Originally Posted By LRRPF52:
I've been following these techniques for a while as well. I remember the original thread on SH. I also follow Robert Whitley's accuracy enhancement guide. The difference is basically hand-fitting and polishing all the points of conflict, versus slapping parts together. Here's a Krieger barrel that I did for a friend of mine. He was only getting 1.5" groups at 100yds at best. Barrel needed bedding to the upper, and the gas system needed work, with an ArmaLite tube vs, the AR15 that was in it, DPMS aluminum gas block needed replacement, etc. Before: http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j422/LRRPF52/20150127_2223231_zpsuhdmsnnt.jpg http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j422/LRRPF52/20150127_2223351_zps9evcercm.jpg After: http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j422/LRRPF52/20150127_2234041_zpsjlvywxqp.jpg http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j422/LRRPF52/20150127_2233571_zpsfc1dub7e.jpg You can see some ugly tool marks that showed up, but are inconsequential to function and accuracy. I wasn't too impressed with that extension aesthetically, but after all the work I did, the gun shoots into the .6's with a random 155gr SMK load he had, 5rd groups. You messed up that Krieger! How? The barrel extension was the only thing touched, and it was covered in tool marks. The reason for de-edging and polishing feed ramps is to prevent meplats from HPBT's getting shaved or stuck on the transition from the upper to the extension. I messed up nothing. Gun shoots twice as good as it did from before, like a Krieger should, but that had nothing to do with the polishing the extension, and was more a function of bedding and using high torque for the nut. |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2:
Why would polishing a chamber be necessary? Considering the 'precision' application Serious question; I'm not trying to be a smart*ss. Just trying to add to my ever-growing quest for knowledge View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ch3no2:
Originally Posted By jim:
The only thing i would change is the method for polishing a chamber. Instead of the mop, emery paper etc. I use a case fired from that chamber. Pop the primer open the flash hole (not too much) just enough so a dremel polishing pad's mandrel threads in to the hole. I then use Colgate White toothpaste (none of this extra bright, high what ever) basic colgate. FWIW: it's an old smith trick for cleaning up revolver actions. ANYWAY ...................... mandrel is secure in brass case, toothpaste rubbed on the case. Dremel mandrel secure in dremel flex extension. place a cotton ball or piece of rag in the barrel, to minimize debris from the bbl. Run the case in chamber 2-3x. Wipe out chamber, inspect rinse & repeat 1 maybe 2 more times. There's no need to get carried away. That case was fired and formed to that chamber. After it's done a good cleaning of the chamber area and barrel, completes the job You could also use a section of cleaning rod IF you don't have the dremel and or accessories for them. Why would polishing a chamber be necessary? Considering the 'precision' application Serious question; I'm not trying to be a smart*ss. Just trying to add to my ever-growing quest for knowledge Didn't think you were. If one doesn't ask, one never learns why. Outside of the repetitive SHOULD I WRITE A LETTER TO ATF FOR CLARIFICATION IMO "Precision" is a term taken loosely. Precision this, precision that. Like that word TACTICAL IF one is taking the time / effort to clean up and smooth moving parts . Polishing the chamber is one step to not overlook. Much easier to clean up prior to installation. I've encountered tight chambers in higher $$ end "Precision" barrels before. Nothing is perfect, getting your gun that much closer is. One may or may not choose to do anything on their gun. For those who do, as shown in this thread, you can do as the OP does (polish chamber) or simplify it . There's not need to cut a case, find a spring that fits. Then cut spring to size. Remove parts from BCG. When the same results can be done with spent case, dremel, or cleaning rod. The thread has some information i've done for years, some not, or thought about before. . I like the picture / write up, walk through, and applaud the OP for taking the time passing it on. |
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Children are the most complex creations made by unskilled labor.
NRA member and I VOTE |
Question...
Wouldn't a polished chamber make it more difficult for the case to "grab" when it is fired? I have heard that the chamber needs to be smooth but enough rough enough to grab the case when it is fired. |
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I AM DARREN WILSON
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Originally Posted By mattf26:
Question... Wouldn't a polished chamber make it more difficult for the case to "grab" when it is fired? I have heard that the chamber needs to be smooth but enough rough enough to grab the case when it is fired. View Quote I'm not the most experienced but that makes absolutely no sense to me. The case is mechanically locked in the chamber, there's no reason I can see for it to grab anything. |
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Remember Remember the Fifth of November
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I had Tubb's reloading videos on YouTube as background noise, but remember hearing him saying that the brass should have a little grip on the chamber walls to reduce the thrust on the locking lugs.
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FBHO
Teener Krew 4 Lyfe Thank you, Jeff. #24ever |
Originally Posted By mattf26:
Question... Wouldn't a polished chamber make it more difficult for the case to "grab" when it is fired? I have heard that the chamber needs to be smooth but enough rough enough to grab the case when it is fired. View Quote Rough chamber is a no no. It's one of the most over looked items, when diagnosing extraction issues. Is it a major one, of course not. However it's been known, on more then 1 occasion to cause issues. We can debate it back and for for 2-3 pages. That takes away from the OP's intent. One can start another thread on the subject, if they like. |
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Children are the most complex creations made by unskilled labor.
NRA member and I VOTE |
Just want to say a big thank you to OP, LRRPF52, jim, and all who've contributed to this thread.
I read and studied all this great information when I was building my rifle. The results far exceeded my expectations, and I continue to learn & improve every time out. Thanks fellas |
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I think this thread should be nominated for a sticky.
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Someone with the brownells receiver lapping tool, can you post some caliper measurements?
OD of the section that slides into the upper is the main one I would need. |
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Normal Tuesday night for Shia LeBeouf
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Originally Posted By BoxofRox:
Someone with the brownells receiver lapping tool, can you post some caliper measurements? OD of the section that slides into the upper is the main one I would need. View Quote 0.997" for the extension/guide portion inside the receiver 1.250" for the lapping face surface |
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Tl/dr
All good info. Thanks!!! |
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Originally Posted By HighpowerRifleBrony:
I had Tubb's reloading videos on YouTube as background noise, but remember hearing him saying that the brass should have a little grip on the chamber walls to reduce the thrust on the locking lugs. View Quote Yup. A chamber that is so smooth will allow the brass to thrust more against the bolt. Adhesion/obturation to the chamber walls under pressure is what you want. Also, cases with more taper have more thrust for that reason. The chamber, brass gasket, and charge is like a shape charge directed against the bolt because of the bottleneck. |
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Originally Posted By oryx:
Using the brownells tool for squaring the face of the receiver where the barrel mates into it, does the tool end up changing the inner dimensiion at all with the tool running inside? I have an upper and barrel that are a very tight fit and didn't want to create a situation where the tolerances increaseed and then need shimming. Trying to understand which operation is more important to accuracy, the barrel/ receiver fit or the absolute squareness of the face of the receiver. In a perfect world,both, I am sure .... but don't want to try to fix something that might not be broken and end up creating worsened tolerances elsewhere.Thanks View Quote Both squareness and fit of the extension affect accuracy. Here's where squareness really comes in even for a blaster. If the receiver face is out of square, the bolt lugs will not be balanced when loaded up with thrust. Whichever lugs are in contact with the barrel extension teeth will get the most loading, and start to fatigue. Precision smiths will often point out how most factory Remington's have only one lug engaged into the lug recess on the receiver, then tell you why they square the receiver face and lap the lugs. |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2:
0.997" for the extension/guide portion inside the receiver 1.250" for the lapping face surface View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ch3no2:
Originally Posted By BoxofRox:
Someone with the brownells receiver lapping tool, can you post some caliper measurements? OD of the section that slides into the upper is the main one I would need. 0.997" for the extension/guide portion inside the receiver 1.250" for the lapping face surface Perfect, thank you sir. And thanks for posting this stuff OP, it'll be helpful for a lot of people for a long time. |
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Normal Tuesday night for Shia LeBeouf
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Of all my uppers from Compass Lake and White Oak none have this barrel bedding and I still shoot at least expert scores with them.
I don't recall Derrick Martin bedding barrels to barrel ext. either. |
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Originally Posted By Renn:
Of all my uppers from Compass Lake and White Oak none have this barrel bedding and I still shoot at least expert scores with them. I don't recall Derrick Martin bedding barrels to barrel ext. either. View Quote Compass lake fits the extensions to the uppers with very tight dims. They are not ignorant of this aspect of the gun, if that's what you are wondering. I don't know of any reputable shop that does not address this somehow, whether it be by: * Thermo-fit using undersized upper and oversized extension * Machine fit, press fit with oversized BAT extension or in-house/spec'd extensions for them * Shimming Everybody does it, to include square faces on the receivers, tightly controlled extension tunnels, tightly controlled extension diameters, and variations of the fitting methods listed above. JP does it, GA Precision does it, Les Baer does it, name a shop, and if they are catering to precision shooters, they do it. I've personally taken several rifles ranging from .223 Wylde to .308 Win., performed these services, and have seen groups shrink noticeably. My buddy's Krieger-barreled Iron Ridge Arms went from shooting 1.5" into the .6" range with a random hand load. A JP barrel I used went from 1.5" to .75" and less. The upper it was originally in had a face way out of square that I had to spend some time with lapping to get squared up. I put it in a tighter upper with a square face, bedded it and voila. |
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Where can I get a .308 version of the tool to true the face of the receiver? All I found was AR15 sized tools.
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Originally Posted By Trey-W:
Nobody makes an off the shelf tool. A guy on predator masters forum named dtech does them for around $20. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Trey-W:
Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
Where can I get a .308 version of the tool to true the face of the receiver? All I found was AR15 sized tools. Nobody makes an off the shelf tool. A guy on predator masters forum named dtech does them for around $20. Thanks. |
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