Posted: 7/15/2009 6:41:51 AM EDT
I have a 6x10 Haulmark trailer shown here:
I have not done a whole lot to the trailer before now other then to paint the floor with a heavy duty oil based primer with sand added to the paint to give it a heavy non-slip surface. I also have a lot of D-rings and a couple track systems that I had mounted to the walls but nothing too fancy as I knew I would redo the trailer at some point. << EDITED PLAN CHANGE NOW THAT I HAVE LEARNED MORE >> Notes on trailer - The interior walls of the trailer are 5-feet tall. The left wall of the trailer is 10-feet long and the right has about 12-inches in front of the door and 6-feet after the door. The GVW of my trailer is 2990-pounds to eliminate the need for PA state inspections and my trailer curently has no brakes although I am thinking about adding some if adding brakes would not make it necessary for me to get the trailer inspected. So, here is the CURRENT plan on how I will be redoing this trailer.... Step 1: Remove the luan plywood from interior Step 2: Add rigid foam insulation between steel studs of trailer Step 3: Add vents to side of trailer - High Front Driver Side - Low Rear Passanger Side 
Step 4: Mount new plywood (1/2 inch most likely) Step 5: Paint interior (white) Step 6: Add E-Track hotizontally (current thinking is bottom of e-track at 18-inches and 36-inches) 
Step 7: Add rigid foam to roof Step 8: Possibly add roof vent / escape hatch - need to check clearance as trailer needs to fit in garage and I don't have a lot of spare height Step 9: Insulate doors - Not sure how easy this will be due to the way they are made Step 10: If I do take side door apart - I want to see if I can change the way the door latches/locks (now it would be easy to get trapped inside the trailer if someone latched the handle. Step 11. Add Stabilizer jacks to rear or trailer Other tasks: Step ?: Add AC power inverter/charger to allow trailer to be plugged into 120v AC to charge battery(ies) and run DC lights, etc. See: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=10&f=18&t=625717 Step ?: Wire trailer interior for additional 12-volt lights and 12-v outlets Step ?: Add propane options - Generator, Heater, Cooking, other? - bottle on trailer tongue copper Step ?: Add small toolbox to tongue - Needs to be small to clear jack hande and as suggested below I don't want a lot of weight out there. I want to try to find one big enough to be hold some gear however so I am leaning towards this one: http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11069805. I will move my batteries inside the trailer over the axle. SOME REFERENCE THREADS: RV Airplane forum where the guys were showing off their RV plane trailers... Note 52 pages of thoughts! http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_117335/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm Most of these guys were using the e-track system with E-Track 2x4 Shelf Pockets to build the shelves: http://www.freewaytrailer.com/proddetail.asp?prod=40921-10 The other advantage with this e-track system is I can buy spare tire racks, D-ring hooks, and others. In my searches I also found a mentor rig which is a great example but more then I can do with my single axle 2990# GVW trailer. If I had bought a tandom axle trailer and perhaps a bigger trailer at that I might try to add more like this rig but it still has a lot of really great ideas: http://home.comcast.net/~ssauer40/cargomate/cargomate.html |
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If you are going to have permanent empty space between the plywood and outside walls I would put some styrofoam insualtion in there.
I have been doing a lot of reading on various sites and figure I will just take the time to convert a trailer similar to yours when I get around to doing something. I plan to insulate really well and add a couple roof vents that are capable of being adjusted to any side or front or back so you could angle one to let air get ducted into the trailer and the other one would help suck it out. This is mostly for sitting still and taking advantage of winds that way, I don't know about driving until I actually have something to play with. If it is really well insulated then a small portable propane heater would be good enough for winter in the areas I play in and for summer I dream of a rooftop ac setup but don't know if I will ever mess with it. Others have just installed window ac units into the sides of their trailers as well. Generally it takes a generator to run these. Using some memory foam for the mattress can be expensive but that stuff can get stuff away and be pulled out and used right away with no worries so I actually kind of like it. A folding bed might be something to consider, you said you would remove stuff but if you could hinge up the bed to the side of the trailer and fold it up you could have easy access to totes without sliding them out all the time and what not. These days I mostly research how people are modifying toy haulers or making their own out of cargo trailers since that is my main purpose for my trailer if I get around to picking up an enclosed trailer. |
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Good point! My trailer intreior was built using very thin luan plywood and I will be removing all of it before replacing it with much more substantial plywood. I just want to watch the weight. I do plan to insulate the spaces between the studs and I will use the rigid foam and as thick as I can get between the studs... One inch is only R5 but better then nothing!
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100320343&N=10000003+90034+527397 The spaces between the vertical 2x3s I will be able to add 1.5-inch foam like this: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100320293&N=10000003+90034+527397 That has an R rating of 7.5 for an overall for 11.5 for not a whole lot of money. Later I will need to consider how to insulate the roof and you also have a good idea to consider adding vents. I am not crazy about cutting holes through the exterior but this sure is the time to do it as after everything is redone it will be a major PITA to do it! I am also updating my MS paint on the first post with more detail and some updates including an option for two shelves (most likely I would only really use one or the other. I need to figure out how to notch the outer plywood to allow 2x2s to be added and removed so I may need to tweak that aspect more or simply not add the 3/8-in plywood to the upper 2-feet of that 4-foot section but then I can't add the thicker insulation 
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I am confused by the 2x2s but it could just be me.
If you do some reading on the vents you will find they can be useful for letting hot air out the top during the summer and airing out any smells from cooking or something that you might rarely due inside with the doors kind of closed up a bit. Depending on how you heat it you could have an excess of heat and need to vent some hot air out anyway. One thread I read talked about the 2 vents being fully adjustable so he could catch the wind for air coming in and it helped suck it out. I don't recall the vents being listed but if I put vents in they will be fully adjustable for any direction because it just makes sense to be able to catch the wind perfectly instead of trying to move the trailer around. And I fully understand about cutting something up but these days I am trying to buy things that fit my needs very well and then I just mod them to fit my needs that much more. I don't buy and sell stuff as much as I used to, I used to wonder if this or that would work for me and bought it and used it but often was not very happy with it since I did not fully think things out very well. I know for adding a rooftop ac unit metal braces need to be added, most folks weld em in but due to me not welding I would be likely to rivet or bolt them in with sealer to make a complete seal. I doubt vents really need much bracing but it might depend on your specific roof. I go back and forth to adding thing to the sides or roof on the outside of a trailer. While it will catch wind it is a whole lot of space to mess with. Since I am kind of thinking about getting a couple big solar panels they are mostly what I would be thinking about putting on the roof I reckon. I would not want a ton of stuff up on the roof but if you start messing with the roof it would be good to look at all things on paper once rather than add vents and later decide you are 6 inches off for adding a good size solar panel in that spot. |
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Quoted:
I am confused by the 2x2s but it could just be me. Note half way down the first post I added an edit - I just have not had a chance to rework the first post with the new plan and I can't now either - 11-week baby.... The 2x2 holes were intended to allow me to build shelves and mount stuff to the sides but I am going to go with the e-track system insted now and it will do the same task... Here is an example from the link I posted above of the shelves and obviously this can be for a 2-foot shelf, a 6-foot bed, or the whole trailer... 
If you do some reading on the vents you will find they can be useful for letting hot air out the top during the summer and airing out any smells from cooking or something that you might rarely due inside with the doors kind of closed up a bit.
I am curently planning to add one or two directional vents like these from EBAY: 
I think I am going to add one high on side near the front of the trailer and one low on the side of the trailer near the front. One will be on the drivers side and the other on the passanger side and both will point forward. Then, I plan to add a series of vents to the rear of the trailer. Above the two cargo doors there is about 3-inches of space and I have been looking to see if I could find a stainless or alluminum louvered vent that is say 2x10-inches. This would get screen added to the inside and because it is very close to the ceiling it should let the heat escape. Now, if I can do that, then I will add two Butterfly Vents low on the rear trailer doors and I am refering to something like this: 
If I can not find a vent that I can mount above the door then I may just use four of these round vents - two high and two low. I will update the 1st post when I can to remove the outdated plans. |
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Since I have no idea what you intend to use your trailer for, take this for what it is worth..... nothing
If you have the room, insulate the roof. It helps Plywood walls are nice, decent pegboard works well also though, less weight, already white with no need to paint, pretty versatile Reinforce the floor if you are going to tie off anything heavy inside Insulation is nice, I would skip the door personally ( not worth the gain ) In the summer simply add a door cut from plywood with an opening cut to fit a cheap window AC unit, In the winter omit this step Vents are nice, do them correctly or not at all, they will eventually leak ( most trailers are vented enough already  )
Use a heavy curtain or tarp to divide the trailer into compartments if its large enough or you have a ramp door ( it'll at least keep out the rain while you arent around ) Buy a bigger jack/lift b/c after you add all that yours prolly wont lift it fully loaded on the shoulder of the road in a downpour..... Make sure you have baseplates for your stands to use in the previously mentioned downpour.... Off road lamps make great backup lights. Mount a set up high If you add any wiring, keep it simple and put a diagram in the trailer. ymmv |
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The trailer is being redone to allow it to be multipurpose but the rework is primarily to make it a better bug-out trailer. The insulation is to keep it cooler or warmer in case it would be necessary to sleep in the trailer but also to help keep the trailer temp moderate in case we had food in there.
The plywood for the wals is to add strength to the sides so that I can add the e-track. The e-track will be used to build forward shelves where I can mount electrical, heating, cooking, etc options. Each of these will be removable so that I have the full interior space in case I need to move something larger. In teh rear area, I might use the e-track to build a bed with storage space below it or who knows... The primary use of the trailer is to haul anything that I can't fit inside the Ford Expedition including lawn tractors, rotatillers, lumber, bikes (we have four kids), and anything else. The secondary but possibly more critical use is to have the trailer configured to allow me to quickly pack it in an emergency and bug out. This trailer is not being built to haul a lot of weight as it is a 2990-lb gross weight max unit. Anyways, I think I have the basic plans and ideas of what I need to do. I want to start soon but I just got hit with a $1800 orthadonics bill so funds are tight again so if I get to work on this it is going to be a slow start. It will make more sense once I start working on it and posting pics. |
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I have the specs and I can post.
I have not really started as my wife is still out of work with our youngest (he is 3-months now) and we are living off one paycheck and savings so not a time to spend on updating the trailer. The only think I keep going back and forth on is the vents (roof and side) as I don't want to let water in. I figure during warmer weather we would sleep in tents if this was used in an emergency and during cold weather we could sleep in the trailer if needed with say a 12v electric blanket along with sleeping bags, wool blankets, etc. so the vent would not be an issue - later I might consder adding vents and working on a way to allow me to connect a heater to use the trailer vent but I have not decided yet. As an aside about the 12v blankets, I noticed that most 12v blankets draw about 4amps and I am planning to buy a couple for the cars anyways for emergancies to replace the blankets we have now. I also found AC adapters that convert 110 household to 12v for the blankets but they would also obviously work for other 12v accessories as long as the amp draw is not too high, for example this one: http://salestores.com/wagan914.html I guess I need to go hunting this winter and sleep overnight in the trailer and that would give me a good idea if I am insane or not 
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Well a good vent *shouldnt* let rain in, but maybe you can find one that closes up. That way if you are sleeping in the trailer you can close 'em for the best seal. Or install portholes. Those seal up pretty good, and could double as a firing port 
After all a trailer isn't exactly the easiest thing to defend. (Thin walls, they can lock you in, etc.) So if you find yourself forced to sleep in there might be nice to be able to see out. Downside is thieves can see in
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marine epoxy if you do anything that required a seal on the outside. That stuff is amazing, I have repaired a few "non-repairable" trailers with it.
As to the height of the shelves, find what ever bins you currently use and make sure they fit, its easier to space for the bins vs finding ones to fit. peg board on the door, can hang anything on it. |
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Depending on how the doors are set up you can usually leave a padlock on the outside with the latch in the open position and it is then harder for someone to lock you in.
As far as vents and what not go, I was kind of figuring on doing things the way boats are done since that seems to work ok in wet weather and can handle high winds and what not. As someone mentioned early on a lot of these trailers are somewhat vented anyway due to door seals and what not. I understand on not doing much right now, that is why I have not spent my savings on a new trailer so far. Rumor at work is overtime is coming back so my toy account will get some more funds before too long and I might be able to see first hand how my ideas work out. |
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The more I think about the risks of an enclosed cargo trailer and getting locked in it the more I think I need to consider adding a roof vent that is designed to be used as an escape hatch as well. I need to measure the cross braces of my trailer but escape hatches come in a variety of sizes, for example:
http://www.rvandvansurplus.com/roofvents.asp?Vehicletype=RV# I could make a rope ladder and add a way to hook the ladder below the vent and be able to escape if we were to get locked in and it adds ventilation as well. The big issue I need to confirm is that these will not increase the height of the trailer so that it will not fit in the garage anymore. This must fit in the garage however. |
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I still have not started making updates to the trailer but I wanted to document another planned addition. I have been looking at various solar options and trailers that have solar panels and I really don't want to add a large solar panel to the outside of the trailer that would attract attention but I think I have figured out an alternative solution.
The plan is to add a length of VersaTie track: (Website Here) to both sides of the trailer near or on the top, The track would allow me to then use the tie downs to attach items off the side of roof: 
Now. these could be used to attach one side of a tarp and use it as a canopy for shade or rain protection as from my mentor link back in my first post: 
However, with using a track and the option of adding additional rings I can also use the track to mount flexable solar panels to the roof too! Doing it this way I also have more choices on how to mount the panels as I could lay them flat on the roof in the summer or I could also mount them mounted on an angle in the winter or when the sun is not directly over head. I do not have the slighest idea what flexable panels are the best but here is a 20 Watt example that is 12"x73" in size when opened so my 6x12 trailer could fit quite a few of these accross the top and the solar panels roll up to a 3-inch diameter so adding PVC pipes to hold and protect these would be simple and with 15-ft power leads it should be easy to get the power into batteries to charge them: http://www.siliconsolar.com/flexible-solar-panel––powerfilm-20-watt-p-60.html 
We would also be able to use the solar panels without the trailer (around the house, in the truck, at a campsite) making the flexable solar panels a portable power solution and we can upgrade these as the technology improves better then if I were to bolt hard panels tp the roof of the trailer. The downside is that the flexable solar panels are less efficient then traditional crystaline panels SEE ARTICLE but given the alternatives I can live with that. Anyways, just more ideas and I wanted to share in case anyone has any advise before I buy the track. The track may be overly expensive for what I am describing here but later I may decide to add tacks on top of the trailer and these tails could be used to help tie on laders, a canoe, or ??? so I don't mind investing some money on a decent system. |
[Tj crosses his fingers like he's holding off vampires] Oh no, you're into RC planes!
It has to be one of the most addicting hobbies on the planet. Between building them and flying them, they take over your garage and your house. 
As for your question, I really like the idea of a generator, small air-conditioning even if its just a fan, bed option, and porta-potti option. Sort of like a make your own minimalist toy hauler. Tj |