The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ).

How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing.


Update 06/08
The sod was scraped away, and line strung. My property slopes back a little, so it's going to be pretty high on the back side. It's going to rain Monday and Tuesday, so about all I expect is maybe 2 loads of stone to be dropped off tomorrow. Work will probably continue in earnest on Wednesday.









Update 06/12
The forms were setup yesterday (almost done) and most of the footer is dug. The stone has arrived, and we're busy with that.

















Update 6/14
More stone! And we might need a little bit more, yet. We'll have to see after it's compacted a bit. Later on today, we're going to dig the footer along the front and form it. The horizontal rebar might go in today, as well.

Nothing like working on a cool Saturday morning, nice and early.






Update 6/16
We compacted the stone today, and it looks great. It doesn't look like we'll need any more, so I'm happy about that. The footer was dug out a bit more, the forms were finished along the front, and additional bracing was added to keep the forms from bowing out under the weight of the concrete. The mesh was laid down, and (it's hard to see) there is also mesh formed in a U-shape and placed on the bottom of the footer.

The footer will be poured tomorrow (Tuesday the 17th), and I expect to have the slab poured on Wednesday.

I decided today that I'm going to put a few coats of sealer on the slab as well, so it'll be nice and glossy. You'll be able to eat off this thing.

Tomorrow, I'm going to take the time to precisely locate the two garage doors, the service entrance, and I'm going to bury the 2" PVC that will carry the electrical (well, I'll set the 90deg elbow, anyway).














Update 6/18
Well, here goes nothin'! The concrete is here. It's looking good!









Update 7/11
The concrete has been cut, and the building materials have arrived. Menards fucked up the order a bit (they gave me 2x4 pressure treated, when I asked for 2x6, and they gave me 2x6 pine for the bottom plate when I asked for 2x4...), but they made it right - kinda.

They "fixed it" by bringing me 2x6 pressure treated for the bottom plate (good), but they never brought me the extra 2x4 pine (bad). They left me the 2x4 pressure treated though, so I guess I'll double up on it. Can't hurt.

I guess I have to start building, now.














Oh yeah, whadda ya think of my new driveway? I used berm stone, and it was a very smart decision. This shit is like concrete when it settles.



Update 7/13
I've been a busy boy this weekend. I called in a few favors, and scored some help. Plus, it's my birthday today, so I considered it kind of a birthday present. It was REALLY hard (and slow) when I was doing this alone. With a couple friends, it went pretty quick. We had to stop today, on account of not having any 2 1/4" clipped head nails for the gun, and it was getting a bit late besides. The sheeting and trusses will have to wait a couple of weeks (I'll be out of state for a bit).


My Dad, brother, brother in law, and a guy my brother in law knows from church REALLY made my day, today. We all had a lot of fun doing the framing.

I got 2 large tarps when I re-roofed my house.  You can borrow them if you want to come get them.  If I remember correctly they were about $60 for both of them.

Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing.

New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside.

Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once!

PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for.

Quoted: How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing.

Spray the OSB with Thompson's Water Seal or something equivalent if it is going to be subjected to a lot of rain without much time to dry out.

Quoted: New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for.

I was hoping you would chime in!

What I was really wondering about was the wood. Am I going to be in bad shape if it pours down rain before I've got the underlayment + shingles for the roof, or the vinyl siding over the sheathing? I'll have all the materials at once of course, but it's probably going to take me 3 weekends to build this damn thing, unless I can con...er...enlist some help.

And I didn't know that about the diamonds on the tape measure. That's pretty neat.

OSB will take a lot of rain before it delaminates. You should man up and use plywood

I just got in from pouring and finishing a 24x32' concrete slab. It will rain tomorrow. Not only is that not a big deal, it's actually good for the concrete.

(in fact, before I left the jobsite, I lightly watered the slab with a hose)

Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for.

No ,the diamonds are for TJI joist system layout. 19.2"

Quoted: Quoted: New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for. I was hoping you would chime in! What I was really wondering about was the wood. Am I going to be in bad shape if it pours down rain before I've got the underlayment + shingles for the roof, or the vinyl siding over the sheathing? I'll have all the materials at once of course, but it's probably going to take me 3 weekends to build this damn thing, unless I can con...er...enlist some help. And I didn't know that about the diamonds on the tape measure. That's pretty neat.

Felt the OSB on the roof right away and it will help you out a lot. Tyvek the walls and you will be good to go for months.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for. No ,the diamonds are for TJI joist system layout. 19.2"

Nope. For garage walls. I have never once in 17 years spaced TJI's 19.2 OC Never seen once set of prints calling for anything more than 16 on a floor layout. Those diamonds were on tape's decades before any TJI was ever born.

The tyvek wrap that is put over the OSB should protect it well enough until you get the siding on.

Concrete will set with in 24 hours depending on the admixture. As long as it dosen't rain right after they pour it, you should be good to go.

Quoted: Concrete will set with in 24 hours depending on the admixture. As long as it dosen't rain right after they pour it, you should be good to go.

I have seen concrete poured while it was raining, when the truck shows up, it's time to pour, he'll be fine.

Quoted: OSB will take a lot of rain before it delaminates. You should man up and use plywood

+1 OSB Is almost as expensive as plywood (in my area) You will have a nicer job without the sinus infections if you use real plywood.

Quoted: I just got in from pouring and finishing a 24x32' concrete slab. It will rain tomorrow. Not only is that not a big deal, it's actually good for the concrete. (in fact, before I left the jobsite, I lightly watered the slab with a hose)

It's very, very good for the concrete. It will slow the dry time and keep the inevitable cracks away.

Quoted: Quoted: OSB will take a lot of rain before it delaminates. You should man up and use plywood +1 OSB Is almost as expensive as plywood (in my area) You will have a nicer job without the sinus infections if you use real plywood.

No, 7/16" OSB is about $9 per sheet. 1/2" CD is about $17-18

Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab.

The OSB will be fine.  Buckets and buckets may cause some swelling which you'll want to go down before covering, but it can be rained on with no ill effects.  Be aware that OSB is extremely slippery when wet, so don't climb on your roof if it's wet.

I wouldn't worry about it.  Tyvek the exterior as soon as you can and felt the roof as soon as you can.  If it does get miserably wet before you can do these things, it will dry out.

Now, if you take 3 years to do this, that's another story.  But a few weeks, no worries.

Don't forget the anchors for the floor plate, and it will be fine if it only get's rained on, just let it dry out.


7/16" OSB is $5 here :D

Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab.

I always use 3,500lb test concrete for all my floors.

Quoted: The OSB will be fine.  Buckets and buckets may cause some swelling which you'll want to go down before covering, but it can be rained on with no ill effects.  Be aware that OSB is extremely slippery when wet, so don't climb on your roof if it's wet.

It's way slippery, I hate walking that shit. Usually, we'll pound a stick at the bottom and slide down on our ass and hit the stick with our boots to stop, takes a few years to get used to that on a second story house with anything over a 4/12 pitch.

Make sure you put the side with the writing DOWN and INSIDE the walls with OSB and if you are using trusses 24" OC, make sure you use the roof sheathing clips on OSB always.

Nail with 8's 6" in the field and 4" at the seams, I know some guys call that overkill, but in a tornado, you'll appreciate it. Also use hurricane ties to hold the trusses to the top wall plates.

Remember, no XBX's on corners, solid sticks banged together and double top plates with nothing shorter than 4' at the ends

Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I always use 3,500lb test concrete for all my floors.

Good man

Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab.

I will verify that with the concrete guy.

The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up.

I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell.

What is 3000psi concrete?

Quoted: Don't forget the anchors for the floor plate, and it will be fine if it only get's rained on, just let it dry out. 7/16" OSB is $5 here :D

The concrete guy will put them in when he pours.

Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I will verify that with the concrete guy. The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up. I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell. What is 3000psi concrete?

Holy fuck man, Concrete here is about $170 per yard. 3000 psi concrete is simply 3000 pound concrete, common for floors. If the garage is on a foundation, the floor should, technically be poured after the garage is built, but it isn't crucial, just makes it easier to frame.


You can build a garage, absolutely nothing to it. I can do one in two days with rafters

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for. No ,the diamonds are for TJI joist system layout. 19.2" Nope. For garage walls. I have never once in 17 years spaced TJI's 19.2 OC Never seen once set of prints calling for anything more than 16 on a floor layout. Those diamonds were on tape's decades before any TJI was ever born.

Well I have 3 years on ya and the diamonds are for TJI or other truss style floor joist layout.

Quoted: Quoted: The OSB will be fine.  Buckets and buckets may cause some swelling which you'll want to go down before covering, but it can be rained on with no ill effects.  Be aware that OSB is extremely slippery when wet, so don't climb on your roof if it's wet. It's way slippery, I hate walking that shit. Usually, we'll pound a stick at the bottom and slide down on our ass and hit the stick with our boots to stop, takes a few years to get used to that on a second story house with anything over a 4/12 pitch. Make sure you put the side with the writing DOWN and INSIDE the walls with OSB and if you are using trusses 24" OC, make sure you use the roof sheathing clips on OSB always. Nail with 8's 6" in the field and 4" at the seams, I know some guys call that overkill, but in a tornado, you'll appreciate it. Also use hurricane ties to hold the trusses to the top wall plates. Remember, no XBX's on corners, solid sticks banged together and double top plates with nothing shorter than 4' at the ends

We tie off on all OSB roofs regardless of pitch, height, or shelter.  It only takes a few rocks trapped in your shoes and you go for a ride.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for. No ,the diamonds are for TJI joist system layout. 19.2" Nope. For garage walls. I have never once in 17 years spaced TJI's 19.2 OC Never seen once set of prints calling for anything more than 16 on a floor layout. Those diamonds were on tape's decades before any TJI was ever born. Well I have 3 years on ya and the diamonds are for TJI or other truss style floor joist layout.

I'm not going to argue with you, but you are wrong. You may be able to do that in your area, but there is nothing wider than 16" OC for TJI's here. Like I said, the diamonds pre-date TJI's. Irregardless, we both know our shit, no reason to squabble.

I just wish we had something to build. Once it gets in your blood, there is no turning back.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The OSB will be fine.  Buckets and buckets may cause some swelling which you'll want to go down before covering, but it can be rained on with no ill effects.  Be aware that OSB is extremely slippery when wet, so don't climb on your roof if it's wet. It's way slippery, I hate walking that shit. Usually, we'll pound a stick at the bottom and slide down on our ass and hit the stick with our boots to stop, takes a few years to get used to that on a second story house with anything over a 4/12 pitch. Make sure you put the side with the writing DOWN and INSIDE the walls with OSB and if you are using trusses 24" OC, make sure you use the roof sheathing clips on OSB always. Nail with 8's 6" in the field and 4" at the seams, I know some guys call that overkill, but in a tornado, you'll appreciate it. Also use hurricane ties to hold the trusses to the top wall plates. Remember, no XBX's on corners, solid sticks banged together and double top plates with nothing shorter than 4' at the ends We tie off on all OSB roofs regardless of slope, height, or shelter.  It only takes a few rocks trapped in your shoes and you go for a ride.

I refuse to tie off, fuck that man, I hate that shit. I have only fallen once in all these years, off a second story top plate onto a driveway, luckily I was 19 years old.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I will verify that with the concrete guy. The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up. I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell. What is 3000psi concrete? Holy fuck man, Concrete here is about $170 per yard. 3000 psi concrete is simply 3000 pound concrete, common for floors. If the garage is on a foundation, the floor should, technically be poured after the garage is built, but it isn't crucial, just makes it easier to frame. You can build a garage, absolutely nothing to it. I can do one in two days with rafters

Friend pricing. My brother in law owns a heavy equipment servicing company, and he services the concrete company's trucks.

It's moot, because I'm not doing the concrete myself, and the owner absolutely refused to give me that price if I end up having a contractor pour it (I'm not sure why, exactly). It's not that he would know (I could hide it from him I suppose), but I'm not like that.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for. No ,the diamonds are for TJI joist system layout. 19.2" Nope. For garage walls. I have never once in 17 years spaced TJI's 19.2 OC Never seen once set of prints calling for anything more than 16 on a floor layout. Those diamonds were on tape's decades before any TJI was ever born. Well I have 3 years on ya and the diamonds are for TJI or other truss style floor joist layout.

Just looked it up, sometimes TJI's are indeed layed out for TJI's, I stand corrected. Here, it was a 1950's method of laying out garages, pre dating TJI's.

Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for.

Partially right.  What can you expect from a GC with no formal engineering training...

Concrete CURES by HYDRATION CRYSTALLIZATION.  Concrete NEEDS water to cure and MORE WATER means FASTER CURE as does MORE HEAT.  Concrete is covered after pouring to prevent the heat of cure from drying out the surface which will slow or even break the cure, leading to surface chalk, crazing and the like.

Talk with the concrete man as to if any setting inhibitor was added at the batch plant and how long to initial setting.   How far do you live from the batch plant?  How long will it take for the truck?  How many trucks?  How fast can the concrete guy pour?  What is the temp and relative humidity at time of pour?

I would get the thinnest plastic and once it starts to harden, cover it with the plastic.  You shouldn't have too many utility projections and there should be a SLIGHT slope to the doors for safety and draining, this will let the water run off.

Depending on the soil and foundation design, a floating slab can cause problems.  Monolitic slabs with integral beams, rebar and mesh, tend to hold up better with the higher point loads of a car on less stable soils.  

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I will verify that with the concrete guy. The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up. I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell. What is 3000psi concrete? Holy fuck man, Concrete here is about $170 per yard. 3000 psi concrete is simply 3000 pound concrete, common for floors. If the garage is on a foundation, the floor should, technically be poured after the garage is built, but it isn't crucial, just makes it easier to frame. You can build a garage, absolutely nothing to it. I can do one in two days with rafters Friend pricing. My brother in law owns a heavy equipment servicing company, and he services the concrete company's trucks. It's moot, because I'm not doing the concrete myself, and the owner absolutely refused to give me that price if I end up having a contractor pour it (I'm not sure why, exactly). It's not that he would know (I could hide it from him I suppose), but I'm not like that.

That's a good deal. Very good deal. You can make a lot of money in concrete but IMHO, it is the hardest work there is in the construction world.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for. Partially right.  What can you expect from a GC with no formal engineering training... Concrete CURES by HYDRATION CRYSTALLIZATION.  Concrete NEEDS water to cure and MORE WATER means FASTER CURE as does MORE HEAT.  Concrete is covered after pouring to prevent the heat of cure from drying out the surface which will slow or even break the cure, leading to surface chalk, crazing and the like. Talk with the concrete man as to if any setting inhibitor was added at the batch plant and how long to initial setting.   How far do you live from the batch plant?  How long will it take for the truck?  How many trucks?  How fast can the concrete guy pour?  What is the temp and relative humidity at time of pour? I would get the thinnest plastic and once it starts to harden, cover it with the plastic.  You shouldn't have too many utility projections and there should be a SLIGHT slope to the doors for safety and draining, this will let the water run off. Depending on the soil and foundation design, a floating slab can cause problems.  Monolitic slabs with integral beams, rebar and mesh, tend to hold up better with the higher point loads of a car on less stable soils.

What exactly is it you do again?

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for. Partially right.  What can you expect from a GC with no formal engineering training... Concrete CURES by HYDRATION CRYSTALLIZATION.  Concrete NEEDS water to cure and MORE WATER means FASTER CURE as does MORE HEAT.  Concrete is covered after pouring to prevent the heat of cure from drying out the surface which will slow or even break the cure, leading to surface chalk, crazing and the like. Talk with the concrete man as to if any setting inhibitor was added at the batch plant and how long to initial setting.   How far do you live from the batch plant?  How long will it take for the truck?  How many trucks?  How fast can the concrete guy pour?  What is the temp and relative humidity at time of pour? I would get the thinnest plastic and once it starts to harden, cover it with the plastic.  You shouldn't have too many utility projections and there should be a SLIGHT slope to the doors for safety and draining, this will let the water run off. Depending on the soil and foundation design, a floating slab can cause problems.  Monolitic slabs with integral beams, rebar and mesh, tend to hold up better with the higher point loads of a car on less stable soils.

Slowing down a mix is typically used when pouring in the cold to keep the water from freezing. The more water, the LONGER it will take to cure. ALL flatwork has rebar or wire. ALL Garage floors pitch to the over head door.

ETA: Poured much concrete?

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I will verify that with the concrete guy. The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up. I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell. What is 3000psi concrete? Holy fuck man, Concrete here is about $170 per yard. 3000 psi concrete is simply 3000 pound concrete, common for floors. If the garage is on a foundation, the floor should, technically be poured after the garage is built, but it isn't crucial, just makes it easier to frame. You can build a garage, absolutely nothing to it. I can do one in two days with rafters

3000 pounds of force per square inch is the ultimate compressive stress the concrete can withstand.  That is pretty much standard strength, some stuff for beams and columns can be as high as 5000 PSI.

And if you are building on the tilt wall style, the foundation poured first makes that possible.  Easier for the beginner with help as you build the wall flat on the floor, then tilt it into place, cross-brace and anchor.  Then finish the skin/interior/siding.  Sure makes it easier to get the walls square.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for. Partially right.  What can you expect from a GC with no formal engineering training... Concrete CURES by HYDRATION CRYSTALLIZATION.  Concrete NEEDS water to cure and MORE WATER means FASTER CURE as does MORE HEAT.  Concrete is covered after pouring to prevent the heat of cure from drying out the surface which will slow or even break the cure, leading to surface chalk, crazing and the like. Talk with the concrete man as to if any setting inhibitor was added at the batch plant and how long to initial setting.   How far do you live from the batch plant?  How long will it take for the truck?  How many trucks?  How fast can the concrete guy pour?  What is the temp and relative humidity at time of pour? I would get the thinnest plastic and once it starts to harden, cover it with the plastic.  You shouldn't have too many utility projections and there should be a SLIGHT slope to the doors for safety and draining, this will let the water run off. Depending on the soil and foundation design, a floating slab can cause problems.  Monolitic slabs with integral beams, rebar and mesh, tend to hold up better with the higher point loads of a car on less stable soils.

Please don't piss him off *too* bad. He's being helpful.

So far, he hasn't made fun of me for attempting my little construction project, and I aim to keep it that way.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I will verify that with the concrete guy. The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up. I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell. What is 3000psi concrete? Holy fuck man, Concrete here is about $170 per yard. 3000 psi concrete is simply 3000 pound concrete, common for floors. If the garage is on a foundation, the floor should, technically be poured after the garage is built, but it isn't crucial, just makes it easier to frame. You can build a garage, absolutely nothing to it. I can do one in two days with rafters 3000 pounds of force per square inch is the ultimate compressive stress the concrete can withstand.  That is pretty much standard strength, some stuff for beams and columns can be as high as 5000 PSI. And if you are building on the tilt wall style, the foundation poured first makes that possible.  Easier for the beginner with help as you build the wall flat on the floor, then tilt it into place, cross-brace and anchor.  Then finish the skin/interior/siding.  Sure makes it easier to get the walls square.

Answer the question, take a break from Wiki, what do you do for a living again?

I here ya, no doubt you know yer stuff I don't disagree with anything you said.  we have been doing these kind of floor systems in our area for 14-15 years though......not necessarily TJI. but similar systems. Just figured I would pipe in. And damn OSB is still expensive in Ill.



P.S. Come to think of it, maybe I'm thinking of floor trusses anyhow, because they are a full 2"x4" wide that figures in the layout correctly?

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I will verify that with the concrete guy. The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up. I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell. What is 3000psi concrete? Holy fuck man, Concrete here is about $170 per yard. 3000 psi concrete is simply 3000 pound concrete, common for floors. If the garage is on a foundation, the floor should, technically be poured after the garage is built, but it isn't crucial, just makes it easier to frame. You can build a garage, absolutely nothing to it. I can do one in two days with rafters 3000 pounds of force per square inch is the ultimate compressive stress the concrete can withstand.  That is pretty much standard strength, some stuff for beams and columns can be as high as 5000 PSI. And if you are building on the tilt wall style, the foundation poured first makes that possible.  Easier for the beginner with help as you build the wall flat on the floor, then tilt it into place, cross-brace and anchor.  Then finish the skin/interior/siding.  Sure makes it easier to get the walls square.

What exactly is the "Tilt wall" style? Man this is going to get fucking good.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The concrete guy should be out here any day now (he's kind of starting to piss me off, but that's another thread for another time) to pour my slab. When he's all done, I'll be able to start building my garage. Here's the thing - there's a possibility that it's going to get rained on before I've had a chance to get the roof or the siding done. Unfortunately, I really only have the weekends to do this, and it might take me a couple few (I'm a computer guy, not a carpenter ). How would you go about handling this? I'm sure a little rain isn't a really big deal, but if it's pouring down buckets on OSB, I have to believe that's a bad thing. New concrete should be kept under plastic with water on it regardless to slow down the cure, less cracks. Trust me, it will be hard enough in two hours where no amount of rain will hurt it, you should be fine. If your garage is on a foundation, the floor should be poured after the garage is built so you can pund stakes in the ground to hold braces when you plumb your walls, if you are building just a slab, you will need to pund the stakes on the outside. Remember, plumb, level, square. Measure twice, cut once! PS.....those "diamonds" on your tape measure are for garage wall layout. I will always go 16" OC, but that's what the little black diamonds are for. Partially right.  What can you expect from a GC with no formal engineering training... Concrete CURES by HYDRATION CRYSTALLIZATION.  Concrete NEEDS water to cure and MORE WATER means FASTER CURE as does MORE HEAT.  Concrete is covered after pouring to prevent the heat of cure from drying out the surface which will slow or even break the cure, leading to surface chalk, crazing and the like. Talk with the concrete man as to if any setting inhibitor was added at the batch plant and how long to initial setting.   How far do you live from the batch plant?  How long will it take for the truck?  How many trucks?  How fast can the concrete guy pour?  What is the temp and relative humidity at time of pour? I would get the thinnest plastic and once it starts to harden, cover it with the plastic.  You shouldn't have too many utility projections and there should be a SLIGHT slope to the doors for safety and draining, this will let the water run off. Depending on the soil and foundation design, a floating slab can cause problems.  Monolitic slabs with integral beams, rebar and mesh, tend to hold up better with the higher point loads of a car on less stable soils.   Please don't piss him off *too* bad. He's being helpful. So far, he hasn't made fun of me for attempting my little construction project, and I aim to keep it that way.

I will still help you, he loves to hate me, he is clearly reading from a "book" and has never built anything.

Quoted: I here ya, no doubt you know yer stuff I don't disagree with anything you said.  we have been doing these kind of floor systems in our area for 14-15 years though......not necessarily TJI. but similar systems. Just figured I would pipe in. And damn OSB is still expensive in Ill. P.S. Come to think of it, maybe I'm thinking of floor trusses anyhow, because they are a full 2"x4" wide that figures in the layout correctly?

Yeah, we can't use open web floor trusses in most municipalities around here because when they burn, they collapse. Do you guys use OSB rims on the TJI's? They won't let use do that anymore either for some stupid reason, we have to use 2x10 and 2x12. Man, I wish I could get $5 OSB here.

ETA: I will say though that TJI's are indeed the best thing to ever happen to a floor system, man I love 'em. They are to floor joists what Microlams are to Headers.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I will verify that with the concrete guy. The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up. I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell. What is 3000psi concrete? Holy fuck man, Concrete here is about $170 per yard. 3000 psi concrete is simply 3000 pound concrete, common for floors. If the garage is on a foundation, the floor should, technically be poured after the garage is built, but it isn't crucial, just makes it easier to frame. You can build a garage, absolutely nothing to it. I can do one in two days with rafters 3000 pounds of force per square inch is the ultimate compressive stress the concrete can withstand.  That is pretty much standard strength, some stuff for beams and columns can be as high as 5000 PSI. And if you are building on the tilt wall style, the foundation poured first makes that possible.  Easier for the beginner with help as you build the wall flat on the floor, then tilt it into place, cross-brace and anchor.  Then finish the skin/interior/siding.  Sure makes it easier to get the walls square. What exactly is the "Tilt wall" style? Man this is going to get fucking good.

"Tilt wall"

Quoted: ALL flatwork has rebar or wire. ALL Garage floors pitch to the over head door. ETA: Poured much concrete?

A whopping 10% of the floors I pour have wire or rebar in them.

And yes, I pour a fair amount of concrete.

Quoted: Quoted: ALL flatwork has rebar or wire. ALL Garage floors pitch to the over head door. ETA: Poured much concrete? A whopping 10% of the floors I pour have wire or rebar in them. And yes, I pour a fair amount of concrete.

All floors here have wire or bar, must be a local thing.

Damn, sounds like you guys would love building here. I'm not even zoned.

Not only do I not have to get a building permit, I can't get one if I wanted to. There isn't an agency to issue one for my township.

And yet - quite amazingly - the homes here are beautiful, and many (mine included) have been here for a loooooooong time. Ain't freedom grand?

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I will verify that with the concrete guy. The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up. I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell. What is 3000psi concrete? Holy fuck man, Concrete here is about $170 per yard. 3000 psi concrete is simply 3000 pound concrete, common for floors. If the garage is on a foundation, the floor should, technically be poured after the garage is built, but it isn't crucial, just makes it easier to frame. You can build a garage, absolutely nothing to it. I can do one in two days with rafters 3000 pounds of force per square inch is the ultimate compressive stress the concrete can withstand.  That is pretty much standard strength, some stuff for beams and columns can be as high as 5000 PSI. And if you are building on the tilt wall style, the foundation poured first makes that possible.  Easier for the beginner with help as you build the wall flat on the floor, then tilt it into place, cross-brace and anchor.  Then finish the skin/interior/siding.  Sure makes it easier to get the walls square. What exactly is the "Tilt wall" style? Man this is going to get fucking good. "Tilt wall"

He's reading some Home Depot book, let him hang himself, I cannot wait

Quoted: All floors here have wire or bar, must be a local thing.

I think it's more of an expense thing. People don't want to pay for the added protection, thus they don't.



(Especially with steel pricing going the way it is)

Quoted: Damn, sounds like you guys would love building here. I'm not even zoned. Not only do I not have to get a building permit, I can't get one if I wanted to. There isn't an agency to issue one for my township. And yet - quite amazingly - the homes here are beautiful, and many (mine included) have been here for a loooooooong time. Ain't freedom grand?

Damn, that's beautiful, if I were close I'd help you just for beer, we'd be done in two days.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Subnet, the big thing is to make sure you are getting 3,000 psi concrete, this is what you want for a Garage slab. I will verify that with the concrete guy. The slab & foundation is the only thing I'm farming out, because at $91/yd (to me, last I checked), I can't afford to fuck it up. I actually *think* I could do it myself, but without some help the first time, it'd be risky as hell. What is 3000psi concrete? Holy fuck man, Concrete here is about $170 per yard. 3000 psi concrete is simply 3000 pound concrete, common for floors. If the garage is on a foundation, the floor should, technically be poured after the garage is built, but it isn't crucial, just makes it easier to frame. You can build a garage, absolutely nothing to it. I can do one in two days with rafters 3000 pounds of force per square inch is the ultimate compressive stress the concrete can withstand.  That is pretty much standard strength, some stuff for beams and columns can be as high as 5000 PSI. And if you are building on the tilt wall style, the foundation poured first makes that possible.  Easier for the beginner with help as you build the wall flat on the floor, then tilt it into place, cross-brace and anchor.  Then finish the skin/interior/siding.  Sure makes it easier to get the walls square. Answer the question, take a break from Wiki, what do you do for a living again?

I am an engineer.  I design the stuff you build.  Yes, I have set forms, tied steel, poured crete and did the float/finish.  I know enough that with air-entrained concrete, you need to use a magnesium float, otherwise the finish sucks.  I've done tilt wall construction with concrete (friend's awesome garage, yes, at his house).  That was work..

Back when I was in engineering school, we didn't stay in the classroom.  

The only constuction subject I ever referenced in Wiki was balloon framing as I had NEVER heard of it.  All the rest was classroom/OTJ education.