Some of you younger shooters may have never even heard of "corrosive ammo".  Ammo made before around mid-1950 used primers with mercuric salts in the priming compound in the primers.  Upon firing this ammo, these corrosive salts were deposited all inside the barrel of the weapon.

If these salts were not removed, they would attract moisture and corrode (rust) the inside of the barrel.  Swabbing the barrel with oil would not stop this process.  They would rust under the oil.

The only solution is to remove the salts.  This is easily done by using a water-based solvent, or just water.  The barrel must then be dried and then oiled to prevent rust.

Some may ask, "Then why would you want to shoot that nasty stuff?"  The answer is that it is now very cheap ammo and, other than the corrosive problem, the ammo shoots just fine.

For example, nowadays, you can purchase 8mm Mauser ammo very cheaply.  I bought some for less than 9 cents per round.  Here it is:



It is Yugo surplus, 196 grain Ball, corrosive.  This ammo shoots great, fires 100% of the time, and is accurate.

But, it is not ammo for the "lazy" shooter.  

You must be willing to immediately clean your weapon after firing the corrosive ammo.

Here I am shooting it in my Yugo 8 mm Mauser, which was made in 1948.  



The rifle was manufactured, coated in Cosmoline, and put in storage.  I bought mine a few years ago, cleaned it up, and had a brand new, 50 year old rifle.  It was near to my heart because we were both born in 1948.

The bore is perfect and the rifle is very accurate.

Here I am working the bolt while the rifle is still on my shoulder, the way you are supposed to do it.



When you are finished for the day, remove the bolt and spray Windex down the barrel.



I use Windex with ammonia, but many feel that this is not necessary, as it is the water that really does the trick.  I agree, but feel that the Windex does no harm and might help wash out any fouling.

Spray it down the barrel until it comes out the muzzle.



Then push a patch through the barrel.



Spray some more down the barrel and run some more patches through the barrel.  In this picture, you can see the water running out of the muzzle as the patch is pushed through.



Also spray the bolt with the water solution and dry it.

Repeat this several times, until the patches are clean, then run a few dry patches to dry the barrel.

I then spray WD-40 through the barrel.  I then patch it dry and spray WD-40 once again for the ride home.



Once home, I used my regular cleaning method to clean the barrel.  I like a half and half mixture of Kroil and Shooter's Choice.  I scrub the bore with a bore brush and patch it until clean.



Then I lightly oil the barrel for storage in the safe.

Sounds like a lot of trouble?

Well, you get a brand new barrel only once.  If you let it rust, there is no way to restore it to "perfect".

A little trouble and you will always have a "like new" firearm.

It's worth the trouble.

excellent post  Old_painless  

thanks for all your hard work

Never knew that.  Thanks for the write up!  Learn something new everyday.

Good Info


I like to use the water based foaming barrrel cleaner.  

http://www.gunslick.com/products/chemicals/cleaners.aspx  (Wal Mart sells something similar)


After letting it soak I swab it several times and rinse with a spray can of brake cleaner or isopropal alcohol to get rid of the water.  After that I  followed with a normal cleaning.

Great thread as usual, and again, that is a beaut of a Mauser!

Bravo!!!!!!!!!!!

Very informative.

I could have used this thread 2 years ago before I corroded the crap out of my K98  


Luckily, she still shoots fine.

tag

<----tries to remember the last time he saw a WD-40 bottle like that


I never thought of using windex on a gun.....then again, I never thought of using a tampon either  

Quoted: excellent post  Old_painless   thanks for all your hard work

It's hard, nasty work, but somebody's got to do it.

I'd do the same for the bolt when shooting corrosive ammo.

Quoted: Great thread as usual, and again, that is a beaut of a Mauser!

Thanks!

It shoots just like it looks.

Nothing like a "brand new", 50+ year old rifle.

A+ on the article. This should be tacked over in the C&R forum.



C- on the stock finish though.

Quoted: I'd do the same for the bolt when shooting corrosive ammo.

Good point.  So do I.

Thanks.

(I'll edit original post.)

Quoted: I could have used this thread 2 years ago before I corroded the crap out of my K98   Luckily, she still shoots fine.

You can't "make it better", but you can sure keep it from getting worse.

My corrosive ammo home brew consists of regular Hoppes #9 cut about 20% with cheap household ammonia (ammonia and water mix). It's exceedingly inexpensive, cuts copper like crazy due to the ammonia,and the water content dissolves the corrosive salts.

we always used boiling water or soapy water (preferred boiling) to clean out the corrosion.  windex seems much easier imho!  gonna try that out

I used to use the Windex method, but once I found out that Hoppes #9  is formulated to deal with corrosive salts, I switched to that for my milsurp cleaning.

I keep a small bottle in my range kit and use it to swab out the bore at the range with a few patches. Since it is also a decent solvent, it cuts out a good portion of the carbon fouling at that time. I run a wet patch through again and let it soak in the bore for the trip home. This lets it attack the fouling for a while. I then clean again with #9 at home, then switch to a copper solvent like Barnes CR10 or BBS for copper build up, then go back to #9 for a few more patches and lightly oil the bore with CLP or Tetra oil before going back into the safe.

I have yet to get any corrosion in my Mosin Nagants shooting Albanian, Hungarian and other commie ammo, as well as no corrosion in my Mausers from Turk and Yugo ammo.

Quoted: My corrosive ammo home brew consists of regular Hoppes #9 cut about 20% with cheap household ammonia (ammonia and water mix). It's exceedingly inexpensive, cuts copper like crazy due to the ammonia,and the water content dissolves the corrosive salts.

I usually hesitate to mix "oil" type solvents and "water based" solvents.  I use them in two seperate steps.

But if your home brew works for you, good on you.

I use a dry brush, then Dawn dishwashing liquid on a patch, followed by water, dry patches, then WD-40 in the field.  The weapon gets a standard cleaning with CLP when I get home.

Quoted: I used to use the Windex method, but once I found out that Hoppes #9  is formulated to deal with corrosive salts, I switched to that for my milsurp cleaning. I keep a small bottle in my range kit and use it to swab out the bore at the range with a few patches. Since it is also a decent solvent, it cuts out a good portion of the carbon fouling at that time. I run a wet patch through again and let it soak in the bore for the trip home. This lets it attack the fouling for a while. I then clean again with #9 at home, then switch to a copper solvent like Barnes CR10 or BBS for copper build up, then go back to #9 for a few more patches and lightly oil the bore with CLP or Tetra oil before going back into the safe. I have yet to get any corrosion in my Mosin Nagants shooting Albanian, Hungarian and other commie ammo, as well as no corrosion in my Mausers from Turk and Yugo ammo.

There is some controversy about Hoppe's #9 removing salts.  Some say it does, some say it doesn't.

It is often used by black powder shooters, but that is a different type of corrosion.

If you are having good results, then that's fine.

But I prefer a water wash before the oil-based cleaners.

Quoted: we always used boiling water or soapy water (preferred boiling) to clean out the corrosion.  windex seems much easier imho!  gonna try that out

Many years ago, when I first started shooting corrosive ammo, I also cleaned the rifle with boiling water and soapy water.  That works just fine.

But Windex seems to do the job without all the fuss of the boiling water.

Might as well make the job as easy as we can.

Quoted: ... Might as well make the job as easy as we can.

Agreed.  I used to rinse out my Chinese SKS in the shower.

Quoted: Quoted: ... Might as well make the job as easy as we can. Agreed.  I used to rinse out my Chinese SKS in the shower.

I have a buddy that runs some of his stuff through the dishwasher.

But I guess that he doesn't love his guns as much as you.

He never showered with 'em.

I shoot lots of corrosive ammo through lots of different firearms. Ballistol is all I use.  www.ballistol .com

Quoted: Quoted: I used to use the Windex method, but once I found out that Hoppes #9  is formulated to deal with corrosive salts, I switched to that for my milsurp cleaning. I keep a small bottle in my range kit and use it to swab out the bore at the range with a few patches. Since it is also a decent solvent, it cuts out a good portion of the carbon fouling at that time. I run a wet patch through again and let it soak in the bore for the trip home. This lets it attack the fouling for a while. I then clean again with #9 at home, then switch to a copper solvent like Barnes CR10 or BBS for copper build up, then go back to #9 for a few more patches and lightly oil the bore with CLP or Tetra oil before going back into the safe. I have yet to get any corrosion in my Mosin Nagants shooting Albanian, Hungarian and other commie ammo, as well as no corrosion in my Mausers from Turk and Yugo ammo. There is some controversy about Hoppe's #9 removing salts.  Some say it does, some say it doesn't. It is often used by black powder shooters, but that is a different type of corrosion. If you are having good results, then that's fine. But I prefer a water wash before the oil-based cleaners.

IIRC Hoppes has a special solvent just for BP that works rather well. Thats what they are probably using.

The front label on #9 says it cleans out corrosive fouling. #9 was created in the era of corrosive ammo, so it would make sense that it was formulated to deal with it. I have used #9 by itself several times and not oiled the bore after dry patches and put the rifle away. They never produced rust so i'm convinced that it works.

Ohhhh, so that's how it was done in the field...windex

Thanks for the info, OP.  I, too, have the M48, but have never had the chance to even take it out of the box, except to look at it.
Can you add to this post on a good way to get all the cosmoline off?  I have heard of several different ways, but would like to hear from someone with some experience.

You may not even read this or be able to respond, so the question is open to all and any imput is greatly appreciated.  Is my method pretty standard, or should I do something better?

Brush scrub
Hoppes solvent-soaked patch

alternate and repeat until patches are clean
end with CLP-soaked patch for storage

(note this is for my modern rifles, using non-corrosive ammo)

Quoted: Thanks for the info, OP.  I, too, have the M48, but have never had the chance to even take it out of the box, except to look at it. Can you add to this post on a good way to get all the cosmoline off?  I have heard of several different ways, but would like to hear from someone with some experience.

I just answered an IM about this.  Wish I would have saved my comments.

I seperated the wood from the metal.  I washed the metal in Mineral Spirits (sometimes called paint thinner).  It is about $1.50 per gallon at Wallyworld or less.

I then lightly oiled the metal and it's finished.

I used the same mineral spirits to remove the cosmoline from the wood.  Just put it in a bucket and get a scrub brush and go after it.

Once the cosmoline was mostly off, I used a stripper to strip any finish left.  Some folks use Paint and Varnish Remover, or Stripeeze.  I've even used Easy-Off Oven Cleaner.  Wear gloves and eye protection as these things are caustic based.

Then wash it with soap and water and dry completely.

Finishes are a matter of opinion.  My buddy Tman says that I "ruined" my rifle by finishing as I did.  I told him that if he doesn't like it, buy one of his own and finish it as he pleases.

I finished mine with Minwax Water-Based Polyurethene, non-gloss finish.  Two coats, completely dry between, lightly sanded.

Mine is a durable finish and I like the way it looks.  Not "original" to the rifle, but who cares?  

It's a "shooter", not a museum piece.

tag

Quoted: You may not even read this or be able to respond, so the question is open to all and any imput is greatly appreciated.  Is my method pretty standard, or should I do something better? Brush scrub Hoppes solvent-soaked patch alternate and repeat until patches are clean end with CLP-soaked patch for storage (note this is for my modern rifles, using non-corrosive ammo)

I would push through your bbl 2 soaked patches (removes the large grit to keep your brush as clean as possible). Follow this with 10-20 strokes with your solvent soaked brush (I push the brush through the bbl first and then add the solvent at the muzzle so that solvent does not drip into the action when you are trying to line up the brush with the chamber). After brushing, run a few more wet patches through to remove whatever was loosened by your brushing. Wait a few minutes between wet patches to let the solvent work. Keep going until the bore is as clean as you want it to be. Take a larger patch wraped around a pistol brush to clean your chamber. Patch out the bbl with 2 dry patches to remove the solvent. Run 2 oil soaked patches through the bbl. I then run a single "loose fitting" patch through the bbl to remove excess oil and I am ready for the range next time!!

Edited to add that a bore guide is a real bonus to keeping solvent out of your action, I also put a denim sleeve over my stock to protect the finish from solvent drips, and I rinse my brush in VERY hot tap water when I am through to protect the bristles from solvent action.

Good info, thanks.

Great post as usual  OP.
Some of the old timers around my parts claim a rifle that has been cleaned and won't be shot for several weeks or several months should have a second cleaning "just to be sure" a couple of days to a week after the first cleaning .This would apply to corossive ammo or black powder,the thought that some of the salts will work themselves out of the nooks and crannys.
Running a couple of swabs of windex or Balastol thru a black powder gun at the range will soften some of the crud to make loading easier or to make the cleaning task faster once on home turf .
Thanks again!

Quoted: ...

Thanks, Karl

Quoted: Great post as usual  OP. Some of the old timers around my parts claim a rifle that has been cleaned and won't be shot for several weeks or several months should have a second cleaning "just to be sure" a couple of days to a week after the first cleaning .This would apply to corossive ammo or black powder,the thought that some of the salts will work themselves out of the nooks and crannys. Running a couple of swabs of windex or Balastol thru a black powder gun at the range will soften some of the crud to make loading easier or to make the cleaning task faster once on home turf . Thanks again!

I have also heard this "do it again in a couple of days" advice.

One problem.......If those salts are in the barrel for two days, you will have pitting and rust.

Take the time to do a really good job.

Better to get it all out the first time.

I've been shooting corrosive ammo for years and I never had a firearm rust on me. I used to use the old GI  bore cleaner but now I use Windex that has vinegar in it.  Cleans everything out.  Then I follow up with Ballistol. Works great. Don't be afraid of corrosive ammo. Shoot it and then clean your firearm. Not difficult at all.  Corrosive is about all I shoot in my Mosins.  And I never had one of them rust.

OP...that is basically exactly how I maintain the bore on my M48.  Thanks for the great info.  

Check out Ballistol--cleaning corrosive ammo residue since 1905.  I shot over 300 rounds of the exact same 8mm about two months ago. I pulled a Ballistol soaked bore snake through three times, wiped the rifle down with same, and set the rifle (Hakim) where I could keep an eye on it. I now check the bore weekly. I checked it daily for a while. No rust of any sort for two months so far!

Quoted: I've been shooting corrosive ammo for years and I never had a firearm rust on me. I used to use the old GI  bore cleaner but now I use Windex that has vinegar in it.  Cleans everything out.  Then I follow up with Ballistol. Works great. Don't be afraid of corrosive ammo. Shoot it and then clean your firearm. Not difficult at all.  Corrosive is about all I shoot in my Mosins.  And I never had one of them rust.

That is correct.

No reason to be scared of corrosive.

Just don't be lazy and put off cleaning.

Where is the hijacking of a feminime product for cleaning a firearm?  The precedent was set with your last gun cleaning instruction thread..  

Quoted: I seperated the wood from the metal.  I washed the metal in Mineral Spirits (sometimes called paint thinner).  It is about $1.50 per gallon at Wallyworld or less. I then lightly oiled the metal and it's finished. I used the same mineral spirits to remove the cosmoline from the wood.  Just put it in a bucket and get a scrub brush and go after it.

Incidentally, these new handheld steam cleaners you can buy at hardware stores also do a pretty good job on cosmoline. Sometimes they can help you get into a place you can't reach with a brush.

Quoted: Check out Ballistol--cleaning corrosive ammo residue since 1905.  I shot over 300 rounds of the exact same 8mm about two months ago. I pulled a Ballistol soaked bore snake through three times, wiped the rifle down with same, and set the rifle (Hakim) where I could keep an eye on it. I now check the bore weekly. I checked it daily for a while. No rust of any sort for two months so far!

+1

Quoted: OP...that is basically exactly how I maintain the bore on my M48.  Thanks for the great info.

I have a friend that has several full-auto weapons.  He cleans his 8mm Browning 1919 machine gun this same way.

I figure is it is good enough for a $20,000+ firearm, it's good enough for my Mauser.

How about using windex on a rifle with a chromed barrel like a Romanian PSL?  Won't the amonia hurt the chrome lining?

Quoted: How about using windex on a rifle with a chromed barrel like a Romanian PSL?  Won't the amonia hurt the chrome lining?

Can't answer that one.

But remember, the way I use it, the ammonia solution is only in the barrel for a few seconds before it is wiped out.

I doubt that any harm would result.  But if you are concerned, just use a Windex-type cleaner that is ammonia-free.  There are plenty on the market.

Only if you leave it in there...M-pro 7 works pretty well, too

Quoted: Quoted: Thanks for the info, OP.  I, too, have the M48, but have never had the chance to even take it out of the box, except to look at it. Can you add to this post on a good way to get all the cosmoline off?  I have heard of several different ways, but would like to hear from someone with some experience. I just answered an IM about this.  Wish I would have saved my comments. I seperated the wood from the metal.  I washed the metal in Mineral Spirits (sometimes called paint thinner).  It is about $1.50 per gallon at Wallyworld or less. I then lightly oiled the metal and it's finished. I used the same mineral spirits to remove the cosmoline from the wood.  Just put it in a bucket and get a scrub brush and go after it. Once the cosmoline was mostly off, I used a stripper to strip any finish left.  Some folks use Paint and Varnish Remover, or Stripeeze.  I've even used Easy-Off Oven Cleaner.  Wear gloves and eye protection as these things are caustic based. Then wash it with soap and water and dry completely. Finishes are a matter of opinion.  My buddy Tman says that I "ruined" my rifle by finishing as I did.  I told him that if he doesn't like it, buy one of his own and finish it as he pleases. I finished mine with Minwax Water-Based Polyurethene, non-gloss finish.  Two coats, completely dry between, lightly sanded. Mine is a durable finish and I like the way it looks.  Not "original" to the rifle, but who cares?   It's a "shooter", not a museum piece.

Thanks... appreciate it.

Quoted: How about using windex on a rifle with a chromed barrel like a Romanian PSL?  Won't the amonia hurt the chrome lining?

Chromed barrels should be that much easier to clean out. I wouldn't leave Windex soaking in them for days at a time, but O_P's method shouldn't cause them any harm.