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Posted: 10/23/2014 7:37:49 PM EDT
The bad news is my car was recently totaled. The good news is now I am out of my $400+ car payment. This time around I want something cheap I can pay off quick or all at once. I was looking at older Jeep Cherokees not made anymore, not Grand Cherokees. If I am to get something older, I at least want something interesting....not some dinky cheap car or something as you don't get much for that price point in that category. Looks like online, you can find decent ones for $4 - 6,000. So are they reliable or should I turn and run?
A little info, this car will mainly be a weekend car as I drive a work car most of the week. I am also considering a Wrangler (TJ only) and would be willing to spend more for one of them but not more than $11,000. Appreciate any input on either one. Thanks |
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Mechanic... Have a good mechanic. And parts are expensive. View Quote Parts are cheap. Also, junk yards are full of them. If you've got a little mechanical inclination they are easy to maintain. Remember, the last one rolled off the line in 2001, so they're all showing their age now. |
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one of the better values in used vehicles (IMO) is a 1995-2002 Mustang with the 6-cylinder engine. If you can locate a low-mileage non-trashed-out version of that, you'll probably be surprised what a good deal you can get, and they seem to go forever..... |
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Quoted: one of the better values in used vehicles (IMO) is a 1995-2002 Mustang with the 6-cylinder engine. View Quote If you can locate a low-mileage non-trashed-out version of that, you'll probably be surprised what a good deal Good luck on that, that's like finding a 90's Civic that doesn't have a fart-can.
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My buddy has one, 245k on the motor and still running strong. Needs a shit ton of front end work though. Everyone I have know that's owned one loves them!
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Best years are 97-01, but the 00-01 models have some trouble with heads cracking if severely overheated.
Good mechanic needed? Everything mechanical on these vehicles is dirt simple. So is electrical/electronic. Not a whole lot to go wrong. Auto is preferred, the AW4 is a great auto trans, and the autos had better axle gear ratios - manuals were generally 3.07 gears. if you get one, make sure to either use diesel motor oil, or use a ZDDP additive. The 4.0 I6 can suffer camshaft damage using modern gas engine oil, even fancy synthetics. It needs the additional high pressure wear protection that ZDDP compounds provide, so you either need an oil with high ZDDP (all diesel oils) or use the additive with your preferred oil. My 4.0 loves all 15-40 diessl oil - 4.0 was originally speced for 10-40 and the bearing clearances have not changed, just the emissions/MPG requirements to the EPA. |
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Mechanic... Have a good mechanic.
And parts are expensive. View Quote Guess who knows absolutely nothing about Jeep Cherokees... |
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I've had good luck with Cherokees. Both sport and grand. Get the straight six.
They're a pretty good bang for the buck if you want 4wd. Most everything else 4x4 is over priced. |
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Easy to work on. Roomy, rough ride. I loved mine. Put the back seat down and hauled firewood in mine. The older ones in good shape are getting hard to find. |
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mines a 97 with 245K on it.. Just passed inspection.. Paid 3k for it in 2007 .. Cant seem to kill it.. Sure I have to through parts at her here and there, but that 4.0 wont die..
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I sold mine with 235k on the odometer, 10 years ago. I still see it driving around. It was a good car and handled great in the snow. Mine was a 93 and never had issues I couldn't figure out and fix.
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They are very capable vehicles and I like the way they look. Like everybody else said get the straight 6.
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Cherokee with 4.0 is best Cherokee. If your moderately mechanically inclined, you can do most of your own work on them.
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Look at my screen name. I've had 3. I live 15 minutes from where they are built. My wife has one. Her brother works at Jeep.
They are fucking junk |
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4.0 Straight Sixs should be used for armor on tanks. Those motherfuckers are bullet proof.
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It's a Chrysler product, and they stopped building them 13 years ago.
It will most likely get you where you're going, but the check engine light will make regular appearances, and thing will be at various points of failure. Also, unless you like driving maybe 55 mph on highways, you'll never break 20 mpg. In the city, you're going to be closer to 12 mpg. Educate yourself about the 0331 head crack before you buy one. |
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Grand Cherokee I have a 2006 and love it. Hopefully getting a newer one, or 2012ish SRT Grand Cherokee in the next year
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Quoted: And guess who you can thank? Cherokees were one of the top five traded in vehicles under Cash for Clunkers. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Easy to work on. Roomy, rough ride. I loved mine. Put the back seat down and hauled firewood in mine. The older ones in good shape are getting hard to find. And guess who you can thank? Cherokees were one of the top five traded in vehicles under Cash for Clunkers. And fought the hardest when destroying the motors |
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And guess who you can thank? Cherokees were one of the top five traded in vehicles under Cash for Clunkers. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Easy to work on. Roomy, rough ride. I loved mine. Put the back seat down and hauled firewood in mine. The older ones in good shape are getting hard to find. And guess who you can thank? Cherokees were one of the top five traded in vehicles under Cash for Clunkers. C4C was a terrible program, but it was statistically irrelevant. How many other Chryslers from the 1990s do you see rolling around on a daily basis? |
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4.0 Straight Sixs should be used for armor on tanks. Those motherfuckers are bullet proof. View Quote Unless you overheat them. 00-01 had a faulty head casting. Google "0331 head" 95 and older had a sealed cooling system with no overflow. They would overheat due to trapped air 4.0s will last 100k or 350k. It's more of a crap crapshoot than you think The AC evaps and heatercores go bad about 150 k and the dash repair is a motherfucker If you don't maintain the 8 or so U joints the driveline vibes will drive you mad The rust starts inside the rockers and eats the whole truck quickly. My wife's roof leaks. Google death wobble |
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Quoted: Mechanic... Have a good mechanic. And parts are expensive. View Quote I owned a 91 Cherokee for several years, damn good vehicle. had the 4.0 with 4 wheel drive. |
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I think I got a bad one..had 60k on the odo when we got it for a good price..it now sits with 100k til I get time to replace the head..but in those miles have had to replace head(repaired actually), water pump, ac compressor, radiator, heater core and various other things..also has about 5 codes on it atm.
Other than that was a good vehicle..only stranded my wife about a half dozen times |
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Quoted: Unless you overheat them. 00-01 had a faulty head casting. Google "0331 head" 95 and older had a sealed cooling system with no overflow. They would overheat due to trapped air 4.0s will last 100k or 350k. It's more of a crap crapshoot than you think The AC evaps and heatercores go bad about 150 k and the dash repair is a motherfucker If you don't maintain the 8 or so U joints the driveline vibes will drive you mad The rust starts inside the rockers and eats the whole truck quickly. My wife's roof leaks. Google death wobble View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: 4.0 Straight Sixs should be used for armor on tanks. Those motherfuckers are bullet proof. Unless you overheat them. 00-01 had a faulty head casting. Google "0331 head" 95 and older had a sealed cooling system with no overflow. They would overheat due to trapped air 4.0s will last 100k or 350k. It's more of a crap crapshoot than you think The AC evaps and heatercores go bad about 150 k and the dash repair is a motherfucker If you don't maintain the 8 or so U joints the driveline vibes will drive you mad The rust starts inside the rockers and eats the whole truck quickly. My wife's roof leaks. Google death wobble |
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I have one and so far have loved it.
It's a little small on the inside and to me that's kinda shitty for a DD. Other then that rock solid, maneuverable, and surprisingly good acceleration. I haven't had anything go wrong with mine in the 6+ months of owning it, and it's even a salvage title. |
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Quoted: this car will mainly be a weekend car as I drive a work car most of the week. I am also considering a Wrangler (TJ only) and would be willing to spend more for one of them but not more than $11,000. Appreciate any input on either one. Thanks View Quote What do you want to know? I've had both of them over the years. I've wheeled them, abused them, cleaned them, fixed them, and maintained them. I taught myself how to do all the work on my current XJ and use it as a camping / 4x4 vehicle. They are as easy to fix as legos. The engineers who designed it were brilliant in that regard. There's a lot of room in the engine bay to reach everything. The radiator comes out in just a few minutes. They have a timing chain which is very reliable. The water pump, thermostat housing, idler pulley, electronic and clutch fans, and other stuff is very easy to replace if needed. I highly recommend putting in a new wiring harness for the headlights and installing Autopal H4 headlight housings with some 80/100 bulbs. It was one of my first upgrades and definitely worth it. I drain and flush the coolant every 2 years or so; drain and fill the transmission fluid every spring; flush the brake fluid every 2-3 years (just finished doing this); and change the oil every 3-5k miles or so. They don't take much maintenance at all. Don't forget to lube the 7 zerk fittings on the steering components. I just finished installing a transmission cooler in front of the AC condenser so I can tow up to 5000 lbs. It was VERY easy to do... just a little time consuming. You can do it on a day off or in an afternoon if you have all of the parts available & know what you're doing. When you think of an XJ.... think of a Glock 19. Seriously. There were more than 3 million made. Parts are everywhere and cheap. Look at car-part.com, partsgeek.com, and rock-auto.com. They're very easy to work on with simple tools. You need a socket set, some pliers, wrenches, a breaker bar, and a few other miscellaneous things. Most of the stuff you need you can get at Harbor Freight. I threw away the crap jack and keep a bottle jack in the back along with a full-size spare tire that I got from a junk yard. You can mod the ever-living shit out of it if you want, or you can keep it bone stock. They are great for a backup vehicle. They will go anywhere a Wrangler will with the right lift and setup, and they are CHEAP to mod. |
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Mechanic... Have a good mechanic. And parts are expensive. View Quote Parts are in inexpensive and readily available. Massive aftermarket suppliers . You can turn it into anything from a grocery wagon, to climbing mountains, The Cherokee will cost a fraction of what a TJ will cost. Depending on your use camping, Cherokee, more venture some TJ either one or great fun. Much better chance of getting your money or most of your money back on resale is the TJ. Also one of the easiest vehicles to work on. With a proven and reliable powerplant and drivetrain. I have owned a Jeep or or Cherokee continuously since I was 16 . 57 now. And there's a 13-year-old Jeep Wrangler in the driveway. That runs perfectly and in the 13 years the only repair was to replace a condenser for the air conditioner. |
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Best years are 97-01, but the 00-01 models have some trouble with heads cracking if severely overheated. Good mechanic needed? Everything mechanical on these vehicles is dirt simple. So is electrical/electronic. Not a whole lot to go wrong. Auto is preferred, the AW4 is a great auto trans, and the autos had better axle gear ratios - manuals were generally 3.07 gears. if you get one, make sure to either use diesel motor oil, or use a ZDDP additive. The 4.0 I6 can suffer camshaft damage using modern gas engine oil, even fancy synthetics. It needs the additional high pressure wear protection that ZDDP compounds provide, so you either need an oil with high ZDDP (all diesel oils) or use the additive with your preferred oil. My 4.0 loves all 15-40 diessl oil - 4.0 was originally speced for 10-40 and the bearing clearances have not changed, just the emissions/MPG requirements to the EPA. View Quote |
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Best years are 97-01, but the 00-01 models have some trouble with heads cracking if severely overheated. Good mechanic needed? Everything mechanical on these vehicles is dirt simple. So is electrical/electronic. Not a whole lot to go wrong. Auto is preferred, the AW4 is a great auto trans, and the autos had better axle gear ratios - manuals were generally 3.07 gears. if you get one, make sure to either use diesel motor oil, or use a ZDDP additive. The 4.0 I6 can suffer camshaft damage using modern gas engine oil, even fancy synthetics. It needs the additional high pressure wear protection that ZDDP compounds provide, so you either need an oil with high ZDDP (all diesel oils) or use the additive with your preferred oil. My 4.0 loves all 15-40 diessl oil - 4.0 was originally speced for 10-40 and the bearing clearances have not changed, just the emissions/MPG requirements to the EPA. View Quote |
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I gave my daughter my 2001 XJ when she went off to college. She is now graduated and marrid, and she and her husband still drive it daily.
180k and it has always had regular, routine maintenance. Original brakes. The A/C compressor went out on it last year. That's it. The darned thing climbs like a billy goat, and is a great vehicle. I would not hesitate to recommend one. |
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Parts are cheap. Also, junk yards are full of them. If you've got a little mechanical inclination they are easy to maintain. Remember, the last one rolled off the line in 2001, so they're all showing their age now. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Mechanic... Have a good mechanic. And parts are expensive. Parts are cheap. Also, junk yards are full of them. If you've got a little mechanical inclination they are easy to maintain. Remember, the last one rolled off the line in 2001, so they're all showing their age now. This, I got one for my Mom and its at 110k now and still going strong. |
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Door switches, dash connections, and crank sensor failures are very common. Window motors are $120 each and the remans are junk. Make sure the windows go up and down before buying.
Also google the crank sensor repair. You need to undo the crossmember and drop the trans/engine in back to get a 4' extension on the bolts. If you drop the sensor in the bell you are in for a bad week on your back. The console lid? It's broken. You haven't even bought one yet but the console lid is broken. |
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Started having problems with our 92 in about 2007. Had to replace the track bar, blown seals (not too bad of a leak), leaking sun roof, just replaced ignition. Auto windows are starting to get choosy. It has about 180K on it.
Over-all not too bad, it's been driven every day. We don't go stump jumping with it, and it has never towed anything. |
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Door switches, dash connections, and crank sensor failures are very common. Window motors are $120 each and the remans are junk. Make sure the windows go up and down before buying. Also google the crank sensor repair. You need to undo the crossmember and drop the trans/engine in back to get a 4' extension on the bolts. If you drop the sensor in the bell you are in for a bad week on your back. The console lid? It's broken. You haven't even bought one yet but the console lid is broken. View Quote The only thing that acts up in my Jeep is the windows won't roll down on the passenger side if the inside of the vehicle is hot. I'm certain it has something to do with the window lock feature because I can always roll every window down from the driver side controls. |
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Quoted: Also, unless you like driving maybe 55 mph on highways, you'll never break 20 mpg. In the city, you're going to be closer to 12 mpg. View Quote This is not true for mine. I get 21-23 mpg on the highway, and around 19 in town on Michelin A/T 225/70R16. I did have to get the head replaced, though. |
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If you want a TJ I'm thinking about selling mine. Great vehicle, I just miss a truck.
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XJ not the Grand!
I have owned a couple and still have a 1999 2 door. No major problems with either including my old 88 with the 5 speed pugeot (puke-jo). But I keep them stock. 1999 is possibly the best year for the XJ. High pinion front axles Pinnacle of 4.0 engineering (no cracking heads)! Open cooling system, good electrical systems Watch out for the anti-theft system having electrical issues, again on the later model ones. That said once they reach the 175-200K miles they may start to have issues, things to look out for: Numerous HVAC issues, heater core, Evaporator Core, Blend Door and Defroster door issues. Probably the most challenging repairs for the weekend wrencher! I have heard of post 2000 4.0's having camshaft wear issues again usually high mileage. Death wobble, almost every time I have ever experienced (once on each xj) it a track bar took care of it. Not a difficult job Power window regulators..... high mileage and age, not tough or expensive if its a 4 door. Expensive if its a two door... ask my how I know LOL Fuel pump... usually shows up as a stall when below a 1/4 tank and turning sharply left! Like mentioned earlier they have there quirks on the older models, parts are plentiful in the after market as mentioned. I love mine and it goes almost anywhere in the snow!! NAXJA.com is kinda like the Arfcomm of Cherokees! LOL |
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Unless you overheat them. 00-01 had a faulty head casting. Google "0331 head" 95 and older had a sealed cooling system with no overflow. They would overheat due to trapped air 4.0s will last 100k or 350k. It's more of a crap crapshoot than you think The AC evaps and heatercores go bad about 150 k and the dash repair is a motherfucker If you don't maintain the 8 or so U joints the driveline vibes will drive you mad The rust starts inside the rockers and eats the whole truck quickly. My wife's roof leaks. Google death wobble View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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4.0 Straight Sixs should be used for armor on tanks. Those motherfuckers are bullet proof. Unless you overheat them. 00-01 had a faulty head casting. Google "0331 head" 95 and older had a sealed cooling system with no overflow. They would overheat due to trapped air 4.0s will last 100k or 350k. It's more of a crap crapshoot than you think The AC evaps and heatercores go bad about 150 k and the dash repair is a motherfucker If you don't maintain the 8 or so U joints the driveline vibes will drive you mad The rust starts inside the rockers and eats the whole truck quickly. My wife's roof leaks. Google death wobble I agree with all the above^^^^^^^^ except the evap/heatercore. I have owned 3 as well(.95,96&99). Haven't replaced a heater core YET. Just the blower motor on the 99. To the OP: If you ENJOY wrenching on ball joints and U-joints and radiators and water pumps...then...as stated prior...you want 95-99 XJ 4.0 AUTO. THAT'S IT!!!! Renix sucks (early) and late models 00 01 had 0331 head issue PLUS 3 catalytic conv.( Pre cats). |
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The 4.0 is a good motor, the rest of it will just break, fail, or randomly fall apart at any moment. I think the only electrical thing still working on the 1996 I drove up until 2008 was one rear power window.
If you can do regular stuff like change alternators, water pumps, radiators, power steering, etc, you can get by with one for awhile. If you have to hire a mechanic for every rattle and squeak avoid them, will be expensive at $200-300 a pop every month when you need something done (and you will need something done).
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First post FAILS it.
The key is to find one without rust, and no electrical gremlins. Otherwise, they're great, reliable as others have posted. Beware rust! |
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First post FAILS it. The key is to find one without rust, and no electrical gremlins. Otherwise, they're great, reliable as others have posted. Beware rust! View Quote I am the third owner of mine. The original owner was a douche who left his salty surfboard or kayak or something rust out my roof. The second owner was a nice Russian guy who had the roof "fixed" by a bodyshop who basically bondoed over the rust and painted it. The Russian wasn't mechanical at all and didn't know better. So when the car wash wand blasted the roof off my new Cherokee, my first project became removing all the bondo, cutting out rusted patches, and acid washing it multiple times to kill the hidden rust. The roof is now made froom sheetmetal patches and a gallon of bedliner. The four crossbars are to keep shit from hitting the roof, though it is now strong enough to stand on. Noticed a little rust on a rocker a few days ago, going to cut the rockers off and boatside it. |
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