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Posted: 5/16/2016 1:17:41 AM EDT
And here we go!
The first thing I do is take pics, sit back and have a cold one, and then take more pics. Once that is done I take even more pics. You will want a LOT of pics to fall back on and even then you may not have enough. So here we go. I think you get the idea so I wont bore you with all the pics. |
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Man, that one is in rough shape! Can't wait to see what you do with it
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Wait until you see the dust in this thing.
Jimmy Hoffa might even be underneath all this crap |
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I have a bad feeling that those two columns on the sides are photo finish.
I cannot STAND photo finish It's pretty much simulated wood grain stuck onto some crap wood. Pray for me |
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Chassis removed from cabinet. Just a little dust
Got it up on the bench. Now we can really take a look at what we have here. I can see it is missing left/center dial plate retaining pins. Looks like it used to have one due to the coloring differences where the head would have been. That back left Aerovox electrolytic capacitor (yellow sticker) is not original but I don't mind that at all. I leave the old ones in disconnected and put the new ones underneath. Keeps the top looking more original. Magic Eye is one dusty tube. That grommet is a disaster. Will have to look into getting a replacement. Soon we'll take a look under the hood. |
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I spy an Atari. I still have mine as well, my friend stole all my games though.
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I did take the unit outside and brushed it down a bit to get most of the dust off. I don't want to be working with a completely nasty chassis.
Here is the schematic we'll be working with for this radio. Red circle is the power transformer and it's what I want to ohm out first to see if it's ok. In the above pic it's the black box center/bottom. You can view close up here - http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel/182/M0015182.pdf |
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I ohmed out the power transformer circled in red above.
Primary winding Expected/Actual 8.4 ohms / 8.7 ohms Secondary winding Expected/Actual 775 ohms / 796 ohms It's a start. Looks like the PT is probably ok. I do believe that the person I got it from did say they powered the unit up but didn't receive any signals. So they kind of already tested the PS for me. Now I am not going to power it up until I get the capacitors replaced but at least we know this much.
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While taking some readings the dirty band switch just had to get cleaned.
It will get some more cleaning later on but this is much better. I have to take note of those twisted wires. That may be what is called a "gimmick" capacitor. It is used when a very small amount of capacitance is needed. When I rewire it I will be putting them back the same way so I should be fine. I'll have to see if they call this out on the schematic. |
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So I thought I'd get a fuse holder ready to install. These units have no fuses in them. I tend to use what I have on hand before I spend money so I rigged this up. It's a fuse holder that had bottom leads poking out of it. I bent them down and mounted onto a PCB. In this pic you can see I JB welded it to the PCB. I can't have the bottom contacting the radio chassis. I will then JB weld it onto the inner wall of the chassis. The JB weld going into the PCB holes and into that center hole of the holder should lock it in place. You can see center of holder where I spread it out to help lock it in. |
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What were those "Magic Eye" devices? What/how were they used?
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I had one of those on an old L,R, C meter. That was so long ago, I'd forgotten about it until I saw the photo.
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Found this little gem the other day.
This wire, like others, is rotting and it is rotting right into that part of the chassis. It is not currently shorted to the chassis but WOW is that close. Cleaned the tubes in preparation for testing. All tubes tested fine except the 6F6. Not looking to hot but I am going to see how well it performs when we get to that point. |
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Good work! Keep updating this thread as I love Magic Eye tubes.
I've got to drag the Halli SX-110 onto the bench for a Magic Eye "accessory". I have all the parts including a matching case but it's just one of "those" projects. |
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Ordered replacement capacitors the other night.
In the meantime I'll start working on replacing the old wiring. I also have to figure out if I am going to try and get into the IF cans or leave them for now. I think these have to be completely removed from the circuit to open them. Not to excited about that if that is the case. |
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Quoted:
Nice collection of old rotting wire http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/Mobile%20Uploads/20160528_145443_zps9ox7ggs7.jpg View Quote Do they smell like asbestos? |
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Quoted: Quoted: Nice collection of old rotting wire http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/Mobile%20Uploads/20160528_145443_zps9ox7ggs7.jpg Do they smell like asbestos? No but taste like it |
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In that last photo, the wire looks taught. That's bad. Add some slack for stress relief.
Also, it is going thru an uninsulated hole in the chassis (passing over a "knife" edge). That's bad, too. Is the wire double insulated? Add a grommet or a sleeve or spot bonds. |
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Quoted:
In that last photo, the wire looks taught. That's bad. Add some slack for stress relief. Also, it is going thru an uninsulated hole in the chassis (passing over a "knife" edge). That's bad, too. Is the wire double insulated? Add a grommet or a sleeve or spot bonds. View Quote It should definitely get a grommet for safety, but you can see the rest of that wire under the chassis and there's no tension on it |
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One thing that has changed significantly and for the better is how we wire things.
That thing looks like it was built by an untrained, high schooler building their first kit. I wonder who laid out the chassis and what their thoughts were on placement and wiring. It seems like just so much spaghetti. |
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Quoted: It should definitely get a grommet for safety, but you can see the rest of that wire under the chassis and there's no tension on it View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: In that last photo, the wire looks taught. That's bad. Add some slack for stress relief. Also, it is going thru an uninsulated hole in the chassis (passing over a "knife" edge). That's bad, too. Is the wire double insulated? Add a grommet or a sleeve or spot bonds. It should definitely get a grommet for safety, but you can see the rest of that wire under the chassis and there's no tension on it If I find grommet laying around I might put it in but I'm not to worried about it. If this was a piece of equipment that was going mobile I would certainly put a grommet there. I figure if it didn't short out in the last 80 years it probably wont in the time I have it |
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Quoted:
If I find grommet laying around I might put it in but I'm not to worried about it. If this was a piece of equipment that was going mobile I would certainly put a grommet there. I figure if it didn't short out in the last 80 years it probably wont in the time I have it View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
In that last photo, the wire looks taught. That's bad. Add some slack for stress relief. Also, it is going thru an uninsulated hole in the chassis (passing over a "knife" edge). That's bad, too. Is the wire double insulated? Add a grommet or a sleeve or spot bonds. It should definitely get a grommet for safety, but you can see the rest of that wire under the chassis and there's no tension on it If I find grommet laying around I might put it in but I'm not to worried about it. If this was a piece of equipment that was going mobile I would certainly put a grommet there. I figure if it didn't short out in the last 80 years it probably wont in the time I have it I think the cloth insulated wire would be a little less prone to get a cut in the insulation as compared to modern wire. It's also possible that there was originally a grommet there but it rotted away. |
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A little dab of silicone adhesive (a dielectric) will stop it from ever rubbing the edge.
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Still waiting on parts.
New roll of solder did arrive today. I was just about out It has also been like 100 and death in the garage so not really wanting to sit in that. |
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I did install the fuse holder the other day so at least something got done
It also hit me that I did not test the Magic Eye so I fired up the tube tester. When I went to put the tube in for testing I found out it doesn't test that tube I need a get a tester with more options. We'll have to wait to see how it looks when we fire the unit up. |
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Decided to clean the knobs today.
Before Put them in a mug of windex and hot water. Why that combo? No idea they were just handy Here is how the water looked after sitting for a few and a little swirling around. How they looked after a little brushing and then drying. They come out looking dull. After They look better after a little oil is applied That's all for now. |
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I noticed that the tuning knob had a broken piece on the shim that sits inside. It butts up to the high side of the shaft to keep it from going all the way down.
Wait...did I just say that? Anyway I took an auto body shim and cut a small piece to put in there and it seems to be working. I'll double check and then glue into place if it is ok. Here is the shaft. And here is the new piece and the shim I cut it from. The new piece is the upper right shinier piece. If you can't tell I'll try and get a better pic of what is going on here. |
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Still waiting on parts. They come from Canada and usually take 2 weeks
If nothing by Saturday I may start working on the cabinet. |
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Quoted:
Decided to clean the knobs today. Before http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/IMG_3447_zpsp2tvuc1g.jpg Put them in a mug of windex and hot water. Why that combo? No idea they were just handy http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/IMG_3449_zpsc7bomqf5.jpg Here is how the water looked after sitting for a few and a little swirling around. http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/IMG_3451_zpscrds5b1q.jpg How they looked after a little brushing and then drying. They come out looking dull. http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/IMG_3450_zpsy6hcz8lm.jpg After They look better after a little oil is applied http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/IMG_3455_zps0hewgk23.jpg That's all for now. View Quote I hate to say it, but the before and after pics of the knobs look nearly identical |
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Quoted:
It is a visual tuning aid. The closer the green circle comes together the more in tune you are Kind of like this one although there are different types http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/magiceye_zpspumpd2sw.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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What were those "Magic Eye" devices? What/how were they used? It is a visual tuning aid. The closer the green circle comes together the more in tune you are Kind of like this one although there are different types http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/magiceye_zpspumpd2sw.jpg So that's what that is. My Dad had a reel to reel tape recorder that had one of those on it. Vulcan94 |
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