I went to a shop near here to get a quote on a system for my 2003 Accord 6MT.

Here is what they proposed... any thoughts? Advice from guys in the know would be good here... Thanks in advance for your help

They planned to mount the amp under the rear deck upside down. The guy acknowledged that you are not supposed to do this ordinarily because of heat issues but he felt that the load involved here was insignificant enough to warrant being worried about this.

He showed me an example of the fiberglass enclosure thay would build...fits right into the side of the trunk..pretty slick. I didn't get the impression that they planned to cut any holes except for one. He said they would need to mount the cleansweep volume control and I told the shop I wanted everything to appear as stock as possible. There is a blank panel on the left hand side of the dash where fog lights usually go and we agreed that location would be suitable for mounting....obviously this would reguire cutting a hole in the blank panel.

Anything else I should ask them about? Should I ask to see if they could get it done for 2k even? One other thing I forgot to mention. They said that because of the time involved in curing the fiberglass they would need my car 2, maybe 3 days.

The Shop

What about buying the equipment online and then taking it to the shop for the install? I checked the first 2 part #s online and already would save over $200. I am sure the other parts could be cheaper as well. And you would also save the sales tax as well.

BigScrun, How do you look at people that bring stuff in that they bought elsewhere to be installed?







sorry hit the edit button, not the quote button.--bigscrun

Thanks for the help!

I have been debating, however, whether or not to spring for the $599 Boston Acoustics 6.5 speakers over the JL. In your opinion, worth it?

Also, what do you think of the sub choice? All else remaining the same, could I get any more pop with a higher end sub or is everything pretty well matched?

Thanks!

eta: the victim:

I talked to him about cutting me a deal...looks like no dice...take it or leave it. I think I'm gonna have to flip a coin...

Maybe I am missing something but how many component speakers are you having installed?  It looks like they have you down for one set of components for the front doors.  Don't the Accord coupes have rear deck speakers?  

How many subs?  1? I'd look for about 200w to get to the sub...

I'd look for more power from that setup.  I assume the amp is an e4300?

just 6.5" components in the doors and tweeters in the dash. There are rear deck speakers (5x7, I think) but more $$$ there...then I need more amp. I'm just trying to improve on the stock 'premium' system but if you wanna donate tho...

Bigscrun - had I known, I would have had dad take my Honda out there a few weeks ago when he and mom went on vacation oh well, maybe next year

Quoted: just 6.5" components in the doors and tweeters in the dash. There are rear deck speakers (5x7, I think) but more $$$ there...then I need more amp. I'm just trying to improve on the stock 'premium' system but if you wanna donate tho...

I think they are 6x9's.  I understand the $$$ though.

I'd still consider maybe some low end coaxials to drop in.  They will likely sound better than the mass produced paper stuff they use in nearly 99% of cars.

Alright, here's what I settled on. There's no question I'm living beyond my means. I need something to make me feel better about having to go to work, though.



Today I received some Day One pics from the shop... I dropped it off after hours on 10/11/05

Here are before pics and some 'in progress' pictures from the shop

Dash Work




The reason for the cleansweep... hate to be without climate control:


Trunk work

I'd recommend adding an equalizer. I love Audiocontrol stuff, but I have moved entirely digital in that aspect for my own vehicle. Looks good so far.

This sub box is slick:

Quoted: I see you got a JLA 10w1, how much air space are they building into that fiberglass enclosure? Sealed, correct? I am hoping that you are at the 1.0 cubic foot area, after woofer displacement in a sealed enclosure you should be about .6 cubic feet with 200-400 watts of RMS power it will sound nice. You spent a lot of money on seperates, make sure that (a) they sound deaden the doors around the speaker, the factory vapor barrier is not enough, (b) they mount the crossovers someplace other than behind the door panel. Preferably on your amp rack. Looking Good.

Sealed... but I think it is only .4 cubic feet... they are going to put additional sound barriers in the doors. I dunno where they plan on mounting the crossovers. The amp quoted is only 90w RMS. I am thinking that eventually I will replace the rear speakers and use the 45x4 JL amp to run fronts and rears and get something else dedicated to the sub... thanks for your advice.

Quoted: Quoted: I see you got a JLA 10w1, how much air space are they building into that fiberglass enclosure? Sealed, correct? I am hoping that you are at the 1.0 cubic foot area, after woofer displacement in a sealed enclosure you should be about .6 cubic feet with 200-400 watts of RMS power it will sound nice. You spent a lot of money on seperates, make sure that (a) they sound deaden the doors around the speaker, the factory vapor barrier is not enough, (b) they mount the crossovers someplace other than behind the door panel. Preferably on your amp rack. Looking Good. Sealed... but I think it is only .4 cubic feet... they are going to put additional sound barriers in the doors. I dunno where they plan on mounting the crossovers. The amp quoted is only 90w RMS. I am thinking that eventually I will replace the rear speakers and use the 45x4 JL amp to run fronts and rears and get something else dedicated to the sub... thanks for your advice.

If you are running the amp in 2 channel bridged you'd be looking at ~220 watts x 2 @ 14.4V @ 4ohms.

I would think they are wiring you to run 70 watts to each component set and then bridging the rear output to 1 channel and pumping ~220 watts to the sub.  I think that the e4300 can run 3 channel.

mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=261

That is the one you are using, right?

Quoted: I would think they are wiring you to run 70 watts to each component set and then bridging the rear output to 1 channel and pumping ~220 watts to the sub.  I think that the e4300 can run 3 channel. mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=261 That is the one you are using, right?

that's the one!

Quoted: I see you got a JLA 10w1, how much air space are they building into that fiberglass enclosure? Sealed, correct? I am hoping that you are at the 1.0 cubic foot area, after woofer displacement in a sealed enclosure you should be about .6 cubic feet with 200-400 watts of RMS power it will sound nice. You spent a lot of money on seperates, make sure that (a) they sound deaden the doors around the speaker, the factory vapor barrier is not enough, (b) they mount the crossovers someplace other than behind the door panel. Preferably on your amp rack. Looking Good.

Actually the driver displacement for the 10W1V2 is only .025 cu. ft. it's nowhere near .4 cu. ft.

Considering the recommended encloser is probably .65-.7 cu. ft. he would really only need a box with .675-.725 cu. ft. internal volume.

400 watts is over kill for a single 10W1V2 and infact is beyond what JL Audio will warranty. 200 sounds about right though.

Quoted: Correct but you will need to add some "filler jute" to take away some of the emptiness created by fiberglass only enclosures. That will eat up alot more room. I do this everyday, all day.

What's that?

BTW, I got this email....ideas?

> It just dawned on me.  We may have to disconnect rear spks because when > you > switch to aux input the rears will still play whatever is on the OEM > radio. > I will keep you posted tomorrow about it as I have an idea we will try in > morning.

Could I just fade out the rears when I use the AUX?

Quoted: What  are you using the AUX for? An Ipod?

yea, mp3 player

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What  are you using the AUX for? An Ipod? yea, mp3 player ipod or something else? Ouch just saw that this was a 2003. Periphal makes amazing AUX input and Ipod adapters but the application chart lists them as N/A for 2003-2005 Accord. Damn, that would have been the way to go.

Different than an iPod but it's the same concept as the shuffle

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I see you got a JLA 10w1, how much air space are they building into that fiberglass enclosure? Sealed, correct? I am hoping that you are at the 1.0 cubic foot area, after woofer displacement in a sealed enclosure you should be about .6 cubic feet with 200-400 watts of RMS power it will sound nice. You spent a lot of money on seperates, make sure that (a) they sound deaden the doors around the speaker, the factory vapor barrier is not enough, (b) they mount the crossovers someplace other than behind the door panel. Preferably on your amp rack. Looking Good. Actually the driver displacement for the 10W1V2 is only .025 cu. ft. it's nowhere near .4 cu. ft. Considering the recommended encloser is probably .65-.7 cu. ft. he would really only need a box with .675-.725 cu. ft. internal volume. 400 watts is over kill for a single 10W1V2 and infact is beyond what JL Audio will warranty. 200 sounds about right though. Correct but you will need to add some "filler jute" to take away some of the emptiness created by fiberglass only enclosures. That will eat up alot more room. I do this everyday, all day.

Actually, filler like poly fill or whatever is not even needed except perhaps in enclosures that have all straight edges such as a 12"x12"x12" box to prevent standing waves, and standing waves in that small of an enclosure are nearly impossible. Looking at his fiberglass enclosure I see that it's rather odd shaped and therefore would not have a standing wave issue.

In addition, when saying "filler jute" you're talking about something like poly fill that's inside pillows for instance, that stuff does not need to be accounted for when determining enclosure volume, only solid objects like the driver and any bracing used. In fact, when using some sort of poly fill and using the correct amount will effectively allow running an even smaller enclosure (about 10%) than one without it, while still getting the same performance from the subwoofer.

I realize that you do this for a living everyday, and I don't, but I've been a car audio fanatic for about 20 years. Up until they went ghetto, I had every single issue of Car Audio and Electronics and Car Stereo Review from about 1988 to around 1999 and I've read them all cover to cover. I also install my own equipment and always have so I know a little on the subject as well.

I'm not trying to discredit you or your busniess at all, I simply don't agree with some of your opnions, and you probably don't with mine.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I see you got a JLA 10w1, how much air space are they building into that fiberglass enclosure? Sealed, correct? I am hoping that you are at the 1.0 cubic foot area, after woofer displacement in a sealed enclosure you should be about .6 cubic feet with 200-400 watts of RMS power it will sound nice. You spent a lot of money on seperates, make sure that (a) they sound deaden the doors around the speaker, the factory vapor barrier is not enough, (b) they mount the crossovers someplace other than behind the door panel. Preferably on your amp rack. Looking Good. Actually the driver displacement for the 10W1V2 is only .025 cu. ft. it's nowhere near .4 cu. ft. Considering the recommended encloser is probably .65-.7 cu. ft. he would really only need a box with .675-.725 cu. ft. internal volume. 400 watts is over kill for a single 10W1V2 and infact is beyond what JL Audio will warranty. 200 sounds about right though. Correct but you will need to add some "filler jute" to take away some of the emptiness created by fiberglass only enclosures. That will eat up alot more room. I do this everyday, all day. Actually, filler like poly fill or whatever is not even needed except perhaps in enclosures that have all straight edges such as a 12"x12"x12" box to prevent standing waves, and standing waves in that small of an enclosure are nearly impossible. Looking at his fiberglass enclosure I see that it's rather odd shaped and therefore would not have a standing wave issue. In addition, when saying "filler jute" you're talking about something like poly fill that's inside pillows for instance, that stuff does not need to be accounted for when determining enclosure volume, only solid objects like the driver and any bracing used. In fact, when using some sort of poly fill and using the correct amount will effectively allow running an even smaller enclosure (about 10%) than one without it, while still getting the same performance from the subwoofer. I realize that you do this for a living everyday, and I don't, but I've been a car audio fanatic for about 20 years. Up until they went ghetto, I had every single issue of Car Audio and Electronics and Car Stereo Review from about 1988 to around 1999 and I've read them all cover to cover. I also install my own equipment and always have so I know a little on the subject as well. I'm not trying to discredit you or your busniess at all, I simply don't agree with some of your opnions, and you probably don't with mine. Correct. I do do this for a living. My average ticket is $8500 at the shop with a 4-6 week waiting list. I must be doing something right. I have been a gun fanatic and a Glock fan for 12 years, have read everything about glocks there is to know, but I could not build one to save my life. Car Stereo always get confrontational, especially on the internet, if everyone could do it as well as the pros, you would have you own shop. I love it when guys wanna argue specs and build styles on install. It makes my job easier.

I find it actually hilarious that instead of debating me on what I said, you just simply list what you charge people and that because you're a "pro" and I do something else for a living that in itself makes me wrong. I'm not a car audio installer not because I can't do it, I don't want to do it for a living. That's a strange concept isn't it?

Doing car audio installs is a lot like auto mechanics, most people are either too intimidated to attempt it themselves, realize they can't do it or are simply too lazy to do it. That doesn't mean that anyone that works as a mechanic knows more about fixing cars than someone who isn't a mechanic by trade. That's apparently what you're claiming.

I hardly think installing your own car audio equipement is anywhere near in the same league as building your own gun. That argument has no merrit at all.

I've have met or seen first hand just how little many car audio "pros" actually know. One friend came over with a simple install of 4 8" woofers behind the seat and mid and tweeters in the door. The installer wired the whole system in stereo and had 2 of the 4 woofers out of phase. It was plain as day what the problem was. Not wanting to mess with his install I told him to go back and explain to them that 2 woofers were out of phase. Of course the "pros" said "no they're not" and left it at that. I later fixed the "pros" ameuter mistake.

In another case I was in a shop where I used to buy all of my equipment (to install myself) and a customer came in claiming that 4 ohm woofers hit harder than 8 ohm woofers. Not a single installer or manager could tell him why. It's obvious that while attempting to run a 4 ohm and 8 ohm woofer on the same channel that the woofer with the least resistance will take twice the current as the other thus make it louder. I explained this to the customer since no one else could.

Most recently, I had an "authorized JL Audio dealer" make a sealed enclosure for my 2 JL Audio 10W3's. I did this simply because I do not have the appropriate tools to make it myself. To make a long story short, the enclosure was considerably larger than JL Audio recommends and it was larger than the maximum height I gave them. Talking to the owner about it afterwards proved very clearly that the owner didn't have the slightest idea what he was talking about, and like you, he felt he must know more than me because of that fact. I gave up talking to this idiot and contacted JL Audio directly, they agreed that the box was out of spec and payed for a different dealer to make another one. Those people were also idiots, but not as bad and at least the enclosure was built right after their 3rd try at it.

So considering my experience, many so called "pros" don't know what the hell they're talking about, and unfortunately, I'm getting the exact same feeling about you.

Quoted: Your right. I will not argue. You post pics of what you can do, I'll post pics of what I have done. We can get in a pissing contest from there. To un Hijack this thread. legalese77, you Accord is looking nice, if you have any questions just IM me.

Yeah, hijacking legallese77's thread was out of line. I shouldn't have done it, but I felt compelled to get involved when you wanted him to contact you about his install, and I disagreed with your opinions about subwoofer volume and design.

If I claimed to be a professional that worked on Glocks and was giving someone what you believed to be bad advice, I think you'd chime in even if you don't work on Glocks for a living.

Anyway, I've made my point. I don't want to have some long standing feud with you so I'll stay out of this thread from here on out. If legallese77 still wants your advice, great.

Like you, car audio threads perk my interest and I always read them, so don't be suprised if I show up in some other future thread to correct you.

Returned the Hijack thread to it's hangar.