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Posted: 6/7/2015 11:55:41 AM EDT
I want to get more serious about gun photography (stills), and could use some lighting and backdrop advice.
Right now, when I need to sell something or post something in the forums here, I'm about as high tech as an iPhone and the 60 watt incandescent bulbs in my basement ceiling. Needless to say, the photo quality is horrid. What I really need is some better lighting, I think that will be a HUGE help, and some sort of backdrop as well (currently using the white top of my washing machine). What I don't want to do (at least at this point) is spend tons of money and end up with a lot go big, bulky equipment which I do not have room for in my current house. I'm thinking that spending a little money on some basic equipment is going the result in a HUGE improvement over what I'm doing now. I should also mention that I have a Canon 6D that I can start using. I have a 50mm prime and a 100mm (L) macro prime. Which focal length should I use (if either of these)? Should I get a flash for it, or stick with independent lighting? Thanks for the help guys! By the way, yes, I did great the sticky at the top of this sub-forum. |
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There was a thread that was probably long archived related to this. I'll see if I can find it.
Actually, it's tacked in this forum. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_121/398372_Gun_Photo_How_To___.html |
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There was a thread that was probably long archived related to this. I'll see if I can find it. Actually, it's tacked in this forum. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_121/398372_Gun_Photo_How_To___.html View Quote Thanks, yea I read that one. Was hoping to get more in depth on lighting though... |
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Yep, lighting is everything. I've not done much firearm photography, but when I did, I used all natural lighting. I use white poster boards, and foam core boards for a basic background. It's cheap, and you don't have to deal with the wrinkles like when using a cloth background. If I need two or more pieces of poster board for the background, I can clone out up the "overlap joint" in Photoshop. For natural lighting, I use the windows in my living room. I lay out the display on the floor, and then "feather" the blinds to adjust the lighting to my liking. The walls are white (off white, really), so essentially, my entire living room becomes a giant light box. In order to stay at the base ISO, it does require a good tripod, and long exposure times (maybe 1-4 seconds).
The nice thing about natural lighting, is that you can pretty much see what the final shot will look like, before you ever release the shutter. When using a flash, (or multiple flashes.....I currently have three and a light meter), there is always a little bit of experimenting to get the exact lighting results you want. |
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Would this be a good light?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/996876-REG/genaray_sp_e_240b_spectroled_essential_240_bi_color.html |
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I by no means consider myself a great photographer, my strength is absolutely city scapes but I love playing with lights and hope to purchase some Alien Bee strobes in the next couple of months. However, I am college student so I get by with what I can. I have two Newwer brand flashes with youngungo (not spelled correctly) triggers. All in all the flashes and triggers cost me about what that light you posted did. Some of these aren't great, some of them I love. But with under $200 in materials i was able to do some cool stuff! I bought the plexiglass, lights and triggers off amazon and stole the bed sheets from my parents. So all in all not a ton of money or space tied up in this. The nice thing with speed lights is that they are versatile so I can use them for all sorts of stuff such as portraits. NFA Game Strong by Luke Crawford, on Flickr These were done on a piece of plexiglass propped up on some wood blocks over a white bed sheet Glock 19 - Veil Solutions Kudex by Luke Crawford, on Flickr Always Quiet by Luke Crawford, on Flickr DPX Gear Hest 2.0 by Luke Crawford, on Flickr Good old leather! by Luke Crawford, on Flickr CK Arms 2011 by Luke Crawford, on Flickr CK Arms 2011 by Luke Crawford, on Flickr Glock or M&P? by Luke Crawford, on Flickr These were shot on a black piece of plexiglass with a black bedsheets hanging behind it. Multitasking! by Luke Crawford, on Flickr CK Arms 2011 by Luke Crawford, on Flickr Invictus Practical 2.6 by Luke Crawford, on Flickr The Best Slugs by Luke Crawford, on Flickr |
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Quoted: Thanks, yea I read that one. Was hoping to get more in depth on lighting though... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: There was a thread that was probably long archived related to this. I'll see if I can find it. Actually, it's tacked in this forum. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_121/398372_Gun_Photo_How_To___.html Post a pic with what you've got and let's go from there... |
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Post a pic with what you've got and let's go from there... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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There was a thread that was probably long archived related to this. I'll see if I can find it. Actually, it's tacked in this forum. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_121/398372_Gun_Photo_How_To___.html Post a pic with what you've got and let's go from there... Hi parshooter, All I have right now is a Canon 6D with a 50mm prime and a 100mm (macro) prime, nothing else photography related whatsoever. |
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No tripod? If not, I'd start with that. One is critical for sharp pics, particularly if you use natural light and longer exposures. You'll want to experiment with placement for other light sources and that would be a pain without a tripod. I just can't imagine trying to shoot stills without one, even if it's a cheapie. |
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No tripod? If not, I'd start with that. One is critical for sharp pics, particularly if you use natural light and longer exposures. You'll want to experiment with placement for other light sources and that would be a pain without a tripod. I just can't imagine trying to shoot stills without one, even if it's a cheapie. View Quote Sorry, I forgot to mention that, I do in fact own a Manfrotto tripod. |
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Hi parshooter, All I have right now is a Canon 6D with a 50mm prime and a 100mm (macro) prime, nothing else photography related whatsoever. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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There was a thread that was probably long archived related to this. I'll see if I can find it. Actually, it's tacked in this forum. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_121/398372_Gun_Photo_How_To___.html Post a pic with what you've got and let's go from there... Hi parshooter, All I have right now is a Canon 6D with a 50mm prime and a 100mm (macro) prime, nothing else photography related whatsoever. You don't need much, just an understanding of how to manipulate light. I'm too lazy to spend too much time and set up a makeshift studio so I just use my surroundings. Pics below are shot in the bedroom with the photo subjects laying atop a zippered rifle or gun case and the flash head is pointed to bounce off the ceiling. I shoot exclusively in RAW and get quick, desirable results post processing in Adobe Bridge. For pics of the gun standing, I just use the lens cap or extra battery to help prop it up. Pics are taken with a Canon 40d, SpeedLight mounted on hot shoe and lens of choice for effect needed. |
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You don't need much, just an understanding of how to manipulate light. I'm too lazy to spend too much time and set up a makeshift studio so I just use my surroundings. Pics below are shot in the bedroom with the photo subjects laying atop a zippered rifle or gun case and the flash head is pointed to bounce off the ceiling. I shoot exclusively in RAW and get quick, desirable results post processing in Adobe Bridge. For pics of the gun standing, I just use the lens cap or extra battery to help prop it up. Pics are taken with a Canon 40d, SpeedLight mounted on hot shoe and lens of choice for effect needed. http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-sW5w22F/0/M/i-sW5w22F-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7M7cq4f/0/M/i-7M7cq4f-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kmsskt8/0/M/i-kmsskt8-M.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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There was a thread that was probably long archived related to this. I'll see if I can find it. Actually, it's tacked in this forum. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_121/398372_Gun_Photo_How_To___.html Post a pic with what you've got and let's go from there... Hi parshooter, All I have right now is a Canon 6D with a 50mm prime and a 100mm (macro) prime, nothing else photography related whatsoever. You don't need much, just an understanding of how to manipulate light. I'm too lazy to spend too much time and set up a makeshift studio so I just use my surroundings. Pics below are shot in the bedroom with the photo subjects laying atop a zippered rifle or gun case and the flash head is pointed to bounce off the ceiling. I shoot exclusively in RAW and get quick, desirable results post processing in Adobe Bridge. For pics of the gun standing, I just use the lens cap or extra battery to help prop it up. Pics are taken with a Canon 40d, SpeedLight mounted on hot shoe and lens of choice for effect needed. http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-sW5w22F/0/M/i-sW5w22F-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7M7cq4f/0/M/i-7M7cq4f-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kmsskt8/0/M/i-kmsskt8-M.jpg Cool. Typically, what focal length do you shoot stuff like that at? |
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Quoted: ... Sorry, I forgot to mention that, I do in fact own a Manfrotto tripod. View Quote OK, cool, then you've got the necessary hardware for some great shots. My guess is that you might need to spend some more time with that and natural light, before moving on to the added complexity of strobes or whatever. Have you taken any pics with the Canon yet? I use 3 Canon speedlights, shot through umbrella's, but there may be better alternatives and will leave those recommendations to others. |
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OK, cool, then you've got the necessary hardware for some great shots. My guess is that you might need to spend some more time with that and natural light, before moving on to the added complexity of strobes or whatever. Have you taken any pics with the Canon yet? I use 3 Canon speedlights, shot through umbrella's, but there may be better alternatives and will leave those recommendations to others. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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... Sorry, I forgot to mention that, I do in fact own a Manfrotto tripod. OK, cool, then you've got the necessary hardware for some great shots. My guess is that you might need to spend some more time with that and natural light, before moving on to the added complexity of strobes or whatever. Have you taken any pics with the Canon yet? I use 3 Canon speedlights, shot through umbrella's, but there may be better alternatives and will leave those recommendations to others. I'm thinking about getting a Speedlight 430 EX II for photography in general, but for my gun stills, was hoping to use fixed lighting, be it courtesy of the sun or the power company, so that I can see what the result will be in real time before the shot. |
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Quoted: Cool. Typically, what focal length do you shoot stuff like that at? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Cool. Typically, what focal length do you shoot stuff like that at? You can get a browser plugin that will give you details about pictures. I'm a curious type and like to see that sort of stuff too. Look for something similar to "Exif Viewer". They're free and easy to add. Btw, nice shots variant. When I right-click on his first pic it shows the following: Camera Maker: Canon Camera Model: Canon EOS 40D Image Date: 2013-05-25 18:30:03 (no TZ) Focal Length: 20.0mm Focus Distance: 0.37m Aperture: ƒ/5.0 Exposure Time: 0.025 s (1/40) ISO equiv: 400 Exposure Bias: none Metering Mode: Spot Exposure: Manual Exposure Mode: Manual White Balance: Auto Flash Fired: Yes (Auto, return light detected) Color Space: sRGB GPS Coordinate: undefined, undefined Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Macintosh |
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Quoted: ... I'm thinking about getting a Speedlight 430 EX II for photography in general, but for my gun stills, was hoping to use fixed lighting, be it courtesy of the sun or the power company, so that I can see what the result will be in real time before the shot. View Quote Got 2, love 'em, and they've served me well for many years. Angle-of-reflection from the light source to the gun to the camera is a factor with gun pics you'll notice. For instance, side-lighting can help bring out the details of engraving and logo's, or totally wash them out. It's something you'll just have to experiment with for each shot. Slight changes in position of any of the 3 can make a big difference in the final product. |
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You don't need much, just an understanding of how to manipulate light. I'm too lazy to spend too much time and set up a makeshift studio so I just use my surroundings. Pics below are shot in the bedroom with the photo subjects laying atop a zippered rifle or gun case and the flash head is pointed to bounce off the ceiling. I shoot exclusively in RAW and get quick, desirable results post processing in Adobe Bridge. For pics of the gun standing, I just use the lens cap or extra battery to help prop it up. Pics are taken with a Canon 40d, SpeedLight mounted on hot shoe and lens of choice for effect needed. http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-sW5w22F/0/M/i-sW5w22F-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7M7cq4f/0/M/i-7M7cq4f-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kmsskt8/0/M/i-kmsskt8-M.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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There was a thread that was probably long archived related to this. I'll see if I can find it. Actually, it's tacked in this forum. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_121/398372_Gun_Photo_How_To___.html Post a pic with what you've got and let's go from there... Hi parshooter, All I have right now is a Canon 6D with a 50mm prime and a 100mm (macro) prime, nothing else photography related whatsoever. You don't need much, just an understanding of how to manipulate light. I'm too lazy to spend too much time and set up a makeshift studio so I just use my surroundings. Pics below are shot in the bedroom with the photo subjects laying atop a zippered rifle or gun case and the flash head is pointed to bounce off the ceiling. I shoot exclusively in RAW and get quick, desirable results post processing in Adobe Bridge. For pics of the gun standing, I just use the lens cap or extra battery to help prop it up. Pics are taken with a Canon 40d, SpeedLight mounted on hot shoe and lens of choice for effect needed. http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-sW5w22F/0/M/i-sW5w22F-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7M7cq4f/0/M/i-7M7cq4f-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kmsskt8/0/M/i-kmsskt8-M.jpg Variant, I notice that you shot those all pretty wide (took the advice of installing a browser EXIF viewer). They all look great. |
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Variant, I notice that you shot those all pretty wide (took the advice of installing a browser EXIF viewer). They all look great. View Quote Thanks. Shot those pics on the bed so I used my EF-S 10-22 lens to get close enough to the subject without casting my shadow since I bounced the flash off the ceiling. It's one of my most used lenses. |
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I'm thinking about getting a Speedlight 430 EX II for photography in general, but for my gun stills, was hoping to use fixed lighting, be it courtesy of the sun or the power company, so that I can see what the result will be in real time before the shot. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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... Sorry, I forgot to mention that, I do in fact own a Manfrotto tripod. OK, cool, then you've got the necessary hardware for some great shots. My guess is that you might need to spend some more time with that and natural light, before moving on to the added complexity of strobes or whatever. Have you taken any pics with the Canon yet? I use 3 Canon speedlights, shot through umbrella's, but there may be better alternatives and will leave those recommendations to others. I'm thinking about getting a Speedlight 430 EX II for photography in general, but for my gun stills, was hoping to use fixed lighting, be it courtesy of the sun or the power company, so that I can see what the result will be in real time before the shot. You're overthinking it. Stick to a speedlight and learn how to diffuse it properly to get the best results. The Canon Speedlights have ETTL (exposure through the lens) to help achieve the proper exposure. You can always chimp and take a glance at the histogram to see if you shots are in the ballpark. The rest can be handled during post processing. Ambient light from bulbs or the sun can give you more problems than you think in regards to white balance and/or harsh lighting conditions. |
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Hoping someone here takes pics of their setups as I'm interested in this topic as well. The tacked page seems to have run dry.
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Quoted: You're overthinking it. Stick to a speedlight and learn how to diffuse it properly to get the best results. The Canon Speedlights have ETTL (exposure through the lens) to help achieve the proper exposure. You can always chimp and take a glance at the histogram to see if you shots are in the ballpark. The rest can be handled during post processing. Ambient light from bulbs or the sun can give you more problems than you think in regards to white balance and/or harsh lighting conditions. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: ... Sorry, I forgot to mention that, I do in fact own a Manfrotto tripod. OK, cool, then you've got the necessary hardware for some great shots. My guess is that you might need to spend some more time with that and natural light, before moving on to the added complexity of strobes or whatever. Have you taken any pics with the Canon yet? I use 3 Canon speedlights, shot through umbrella's, but there may be better alternatives and will leave those recommendations to others. I'm thinking about getting a Speedlight 430 EX II for photography in general, but for my gun stills, was hoping to use fixed lighting, be it courtesy of the sun or the power company, so that I can see what the result will be in real time before the shot. You're overthinking it. Stick to a speedlight and learn how to diffuse it properly to get the best results. The Canon Speedlights have ETTL (exposure through the lens) to help achieve the proper exposure. You can always chimp and take a glance at the histogram to see if you shots are in the ballpark. The rest can be handled during post processing. Ambient light from bulbs or the sun can give you more problems than you think in regards to white balance and/or harsh lighting conditions. |
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While I agree that using a flash (strobes, etc.) is an important part of being a complete photographer, don't discount natural light. These were taken using the method I described above.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying one method is better than the other. Only that, both can be equally effective. A flash opens up many options, and allows you to experiment a great deal. Ichiro Nagata is a master at using strobes with gels attached. When you do get into flash photography, I highly encourage you to learn how to use it "old school". That is, completely in the manual mode. Then move on to the more automated modes. This will allow you to understand exactly what is happening with your flash, and what the the "brain" in the camera/flash is trying to accomplish. This will insure that you, the photographer, are always in control, even when using the "automatic" modes (for lack of a better word....I'm not familiar with Canon equipment). |
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Quoted: ... You don't need much, just an understanding of how to manipulate light. I'm too lazy to spend too much time and set up a makeshift studio so I just use my surroundings. Pics below are shot in the bedroom with the photo subjects laying atop a zippered rifle or gun case and the flash head is pointed to bounce off the ceiling. I shoot exclusively in RAW and get quick, desirable results post processing in Adobe Bridge. For pics of the gun standing, I just use the lens cap or extra battery to help prop it up. Pics are taken with a Canon 40d, SpeedLight mounted on hot shoe and lens of choice for effect needed. http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-sW5w22F/0/M/i-sW5w22F-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7M7cq4f/0/M/i-7M7cq4f-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kmsskt8/0/M/i-kmsskt8-M.jpg View Quote I tried to replicate your middle shot. 2 things were changed between the first and second pics below: spot metered on the slide release in the first (IIRC), then spot metered on the grip panel in the second, and the camera was moved just an inch or so between shots. Repositioning the camera ever so slightly made a big difference in making the rollmark stand out. Moving the spot metering location keeps it from being a true apples-to-apples comparison but they should still illustrate how minor positional changes can be significant. Canon 7D Canon 580EX II mounted in the hot shoe with the head bounced off the ceiling. Room light off. Gun propped up with a double-A battery, on a rifle case, on the bed. Canon EF50mm 1.2L lens Manual exposure, ISO 200, 1/125, f/4.5, ETTL metering, auto-focus, RAW. Both un-cropped. Post-processing pretty much the same in Photoshop. |
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I tried to replicate your middle shot. 2 things were changed between the first and second pics below: spot metered on the slide release in the first (IIRC), then spot metered on the grip panel in the second, and the camera was moved just an inch or so between shots. Repositioning the camera ever so slightly made a big difference in making the rollmark stand out. Moving the spot metering location keeps it from being a true apples-to-apples comparison but they should still illustrate how minor positional changes can be significant. Canon 7D Canon 580EX II mounted in the hot shoe with the head bounced off the ceiling. Room light off. Gun propped up with a double-A battery, on a rifle case, on the bed. Canon EF50mm 1.2L lens Manual exposure, ISO 200, 1/125, f/4.5, ETTL metering, auto-focus, RAW. Both un-cropped. Post-processing pretty much the same in Photoshop. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/parshooter/bounce1_zpsuclxt9gx.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/parshooter/bounce2_zpscedygd3v.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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... You don't need much, just an understanding of how to manipulate light. I'm too lazy to spend too much time and set up a makeshift studio so I just use my surroundings. Pics below are shot in the bedroom with the photo subjects laying atop a zippered rifle or gun case and the flash head is pointed to bounce off the ceiling. I shoot exclusively in RAW and get quick, desirable results post processing in Adobe Bridge. For pics of the gun standing, I just use the lens cap or extra battery to help prop it up. Pics are taken with a Canon 40d, SpeedLight mounted on hot shoe and lens of choice for effect needed. http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-sW5w22F/0/M/i-sW5w22F-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7M7cq4f/0/M/i-7M7cq4f-M.jpg http://nikos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kmsskt8/0/M/i-kmsskt8-M.jpg I tried to replicate your middle shot. 2 things were changed between the first and second pics below: spot metered on the slide release in the first (IIRC), then spot metered on the grip panel in the second, and the camera was moved just an inch or so between shots. Repositioning the camera ever so slightly made a big difference in making the rollmark stand out. Moving the spot metering location keeps it from being a true apples-to-apples comparison but they should still illustrate how minor positional changes can be significant. Canon 7D Canon 580EX II mounted in the hot shoe with the head bounced off the ceiling. Room light off. Gun propped up with a double-A battery, on a rifle case, on the bed. Canon EF50mm 1.2L lens Manual exposure, ISO 200, 1/125, f/4.5, ETTL metering, auto-focus, RAW. Both un-cropped. Post-processing pretty much the same in Photoshop. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/parshooter/bounce1_zpsuclxt9gx.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/parshooter/bounce2_zpscedygd3v.jpg The slight repositioning effected where the light reflected off the subject (mainly the flat side of the slide). Even though there's more contrast on the second pic, I strongly prefer the first pic which, btw, you nailed. One of the main reasons I like to bounce the flash off the ceiling for these types of photos (aside from obviously turning the ceiling into a large light source) is to get that very soft shadow effect under the gun. |
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While I agree that using a flash (strobes, etc.) is an important part of being a complete photographer, don't discount natural light. These were taken using the method I described above. http://www.pbase.com/david_3/image/160350758/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/david_3/image/160350788/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/david_3/image/160350811/original.jpg Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying one method is better than the other. Only that, both can be equally effective. A flash opens up many options, and allows you to experiment a great deal. Ichiro Nagata is a master at using strobes with gels attached. When you do get into flash photography, I highly encourage you to learn how to use it "old school". That is, completely in the manual mode. Then move on to the more automated modes. This will allow you to understand exactly what is happening with your flash, and what the the "brain" in the camera/flash is trying to accomplish. This will insure that you, the photographer, are always in control, even when using the "automatic" modes (for lack of a better word....I'm not familiar with Canon equipment). View Quote Great job working with the natural light. You obviously know how to use it to your advantage and keep the white balance in check. Only problem with natural light is that it's constantly changing (sunny, cloudy, overcast, etc.,) and not available at night . This is why I prefer using strobes for product shots and natural light for portraits. I agree that it's best to learn to shoot in manual mode. It's the difference between cooking a gourmet meal from scratch to nuking a microwave meal. |
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The color cast is likely from mixing (I assume) incandescent lights and the flash. The auto white balance can have trouble handling a mix of different light colors, like that. If I have to mix incandescent lighting and my flash, I would typically gel my with something like 1/2 CTS (half straw), and then set the white balance manually. But that is getting a little advanced, and the easier answer is to use only one type of lighting. In other words, I would get rid of the light bulbs in the ceiling, and use only the flash. Also, if your ceiling isn't white, it can create some color issues when bouncing light off of it.
This is one reason why shooting in RAW is beneficial. Sometimes you don't have total control of the lighting situation, and will need to make small adjustments to your white balance in post. I actually think that image can be cleaned up quite a bit in post processing. Is it straight out of the camera, or did you do any processing? |
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That is a .jpeg right out of the camera. Tomorrow I will try a RAW. Not sure if I have any software on my Mac to process RAW at the moment though...
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Quoted: OK, here is my FIRST attempt. Canon 6D with 100mm prime, 430 EX II flash. f8.0, 4/10ths. Object sitting atop a matte white poster foam board. Three 60 watt light bulbs were above this in the ceiling, lighting the work area. The flash was bounced off the ceiling. http://i.imgur.com/WgvITZX.jpg View Quote 4/10ths? My math may be off, but I'm thinkin' the shutter speed was so slow that the bulbs affected the white balance (as Kekoa mentioned). Try it again with those turned off and a shutter speed of at least 1/60. Manual mode, and keep the f8.0. |
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Quoted: You can still do easy color corrections with a .jpg in Photoshop. You actually have two shadows. The larger, more diffused one is caused by the flash. http://i.imgur.com/KLicERK.jpg View Quote Looks good from here. Photoshop often allows several different ways to do the same thing. Which method did you use for the color correction? |
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Looks good from here. Photoshop often allows several different ways to do the same thing. Which method did you use for the color correction? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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You can still do easy color corrections with a .jpg in Photoshop. You actually have two shadows. The larger, more diffused one is caused by the flash. http://i.imgur.com/KLicERK.jpg Looks good from here. Photoshop often allows several different ways to do the same thing. Which method did you use for the color correction? Camera Raw |
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4/10ths? My math may be off, but I'm thinkin' the shutter speed was so slow that the bulbs affected the white balance (as Kekoa mentioned). Try it again with those turned off and a shutter speed of at least 1/60. Manual mode, and keep the f8.0. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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OK, here is my FIRST attempt. Canon 6D with 100mm prime, 430 EX II flash. f8.0, 4/10ths. Object sitting atop a matte white poster foam board. Three 60 watt light bulbs were above this in the ceiling, lighting the work area. The flash was bounced off the ceiling. http://i.imgur.com/WgvITZX.jpg 4/10ths? My math may be off, but I'm thinkin' the shutter speed was so slow that the bulbs affected the white balance (as Kekoa mentioned). Try it again with those turned off and a shutter speed of at least 1/60. Manual mode, and keep the f8.0. Funny you mention that because I too thought that a 4/10 exposure time was insanely long for a flash shot. Why would my camera processor chose such a long time with the flash enabled? |
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Quoted: Funny you mention that because I too thought that a 4/10 exposure time was insanely long for a flash shot. Why would my camera processor chose such a long time with the flash enabled? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: OK, here is my FIRST attempt. Canon 6D with 100mm prime, 430 EX II flash. f8.0, 4/10ths. Object sitting atop a matte white poster foam board. Three 60 watt light bulbs were above this in the ceiling, lighting the work area. The flash was bounced off the ceiling. http://i.imgur.com/WgvITZX.jpg Sync speed set to "Auto"? Shutter speed could be as long as 30 seconds (at least in Av mode). See page 173 of your manual and check your settings. |
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Sync speed set to "Auto"? Shutter speed could be as long as 30 seconds (at least in Av mode). See page 173 of your manual and check your settings. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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OK, here is my FIRST attempt. Canon 6D with 100mm prime, 430 EX II flash. f8.0, 4/10ths. Object sitting atop a matte white poster foam board. Three 60 watt light bulbs were above this in the ceiling, lighting the work area. The flash was bounced off the ceiling. http://i.imgur.com/WgvITZX.jpg Sync speed set to "Auto"? Shutter speed could be as long as 30 seconds (at least in Av mode). See page 173 of your manual and check your settings. As soon as I posted that, I realized that was it. The flash was set to AUTO. I set it to AUTO (1/180 - 1/60). Strange that a flash exposure could *ever* be as high as 30 seconds, why on earth would that be appropriate? By the way, not to ask a really basic question, but what should I have the WB set to when using the flash? When I set it to "flash", the pic looks like hell... |
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Quoted: As soon as I posted that, I realized that was it. The flash was set to AUTO. I set it to AUTO (1/180 - 1/60). Strange that a flash exposure could *ever* be as high as 30 seconds, why on earth would that be appropriate? By the way, not to ask a really basic question, but what should I have the WB set to when using the flash? When I set it to "flash", the pic looks like hell... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: ... Sync speed set to "Auto"? Shutter speed could be as long as 30 seconds (at least in Av mode). See page 173 of your manual and check your settings. The flash was set to AUTO. I set it to AUTO (1/180 - 1/60). Strange that a flash exposure could *ever* be as high as 30 seconds, why on earth would that be appropriate? By the way, not to ask a really basic question, but what should I have the WB set to when using the flash? When I set it to "flash", the pic looks like hell... Check out this article on Slow Sync. Also Strobist, a great site for all things flash. My camera is usually set to "Auto" for white balance, shooting large RAW, tweaked in post with Photoshop as needed. |
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In flash photography, using a slow shutter speed, commonly known as "dragging the shutter", will increase the ambient exposure. This can drastically change the look of the final picture. As parachuter mentioned, a good way to limit the amount of ambient light from your ceiling lights, is to use a faster shutter speed.
Neil van Niekerk has a great series of articles on flash photography. Here is one on dragging the shutter. |
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View Quote Both of these look better than the first one you posted, so you're making good progress already! On my screen, the background appears more pure and actually white in the second pic. Contrast and detail of the frame/grip is better on the second but the color is washed out and not as deep. The harsher shadows and blown out backstrap kill the second one though, for me at least. I think your better overall result was with the flash. |
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Both of these look better than the first one you posted, so you're making good progress already! On my screen, the background appears more pure and actually white in the second pic. Contrast and detail of the frame/grip is better on the second but the color is washed out and not as deep. The harsher shadows and blown out backstrap kill the second one though, for me at least. I think your better overall result was with the flash. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Both of these look better than the first one you posted, so you're making good progress already! On my screen, the background appears more pure and actually white in the second pic. Contrast and detail of the frame/grip is better on the second but the color is washed out and not as deep. The harsher shadows and blown out backstrap kill the second one though, for me at least. I think your better overall result was with the flash. Thanks for the constructive feedback, Par. Any ideas on what to try next? I really need to play with the settings on my 430 EX II, I think... I also think I need to consider a diffusion tent. |
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View Quote Starting to look good. On the one lit by natural light, a little more diffusion of the direct sunlight on the right side of pistol. And then, use another piece of white foam core (poster board, printer paper, or whatever) to bounce some fill light in on the left side of the pistol. That will fill in and soften the shadows. |
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Going to keep working on it when I have time, thanks Par.
What are your thoughts on the 100mm macro prime I've been using? To me (now granted, my experience is limited), 100mm seems a bit long. Maybe 70mm would be more appropriate for what I'm doing. Also, is the f8.0 good for this work? Thanks again. |
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Going to keep working on it when I have time, thanks Par. What are your thoughts on the 100mm macro prime I've been using? To me (now granted, my experience is limited), 100mm seems a bit long. Maybe 70mm would be more appropriate for what I'm doing. Also, is the f8.0 good for this work? Thanks again. View Quote Nobody can answer that question but you. You need to understand what that focal length and aperture does for your image. Focal length, at its most basic determines how much of a given scene appears in the frame (or how large your intended subject appears in said frame). There's more to it than this but the longer the focal length, the larger your subject will appear. Aperture controls 2 things more or less. How much light is available for your sensor, and what your depth of field will be (how much in front of and behind your subject is in focus) Aperture is relative. It's expressed as f/xx meaning the focal length of the lens divided by whatever number it is. Understanding that helps you to know why smaller numbers actually give you bigger apertures (more light, and less depth of field) You can balance aperture, shutter speed, and ISO at virtually any combination of settings to get the image to look the way YOU want it to look. Don't ask me how I want it to look - that's not the point. Do some reading. Experiment with the settings on your camera to see how this stuff relates to each other. Also, try fiddling with this: http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator.html |
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OK I did two more this morning. The first one is with the flash, the second one is sunlight only. The differences between today versus last night, and some other notes: -I didn't need to have the overhead lighting on as there was plenty of sunlight to light the work area (my kitchen) -Pics are now being shot in RAW -I had the white balance set to "sunlight", not AWB -The flash picture was exposed for 1/60th second -The sunlight only pic was exposed for 1" -Both pics were shot at f8.0. -I had to bring up the contrast on the flash pic in Lightroom (downloaded the free trial) How does this look? Heavy, detailed critiquing welcome! I like the second, sunlight only pics a lot more., other than the glare on the backstrap of the gun and the shadows. I'd really like to eliminate both. View Quote White Balance Your on camera white balance does not affect the RAW file. Since you are using lightroom anyways play with WB there . The metadata has your WB info intact so you can use that in post Contrast / Metering There is no right wrong answer to best background and lighting. It really is style dependent and the look you are going for If you are trying for detail photos the biggest dilemma with black guns is , well they are black and the details tend to be underexposed when you use Matrix ( Nikon ) or Evaluative ( Canon ) Here is why. The Matrix looks at the whole frame and tries to guess what the best exposure will be . Problem with black guns is the gun will tend to be underexposed since it "sees all the background" and factors that in for metering You should switch to spot metering ( or center weighted ) Just remember that it will now meter on the center of viewfinder...which is fine if gun is in center of frame. If it is not, then meter and use your "AE lock button " to hold the metering and then re frame shot before you push shutter release all the way Generally this will bring out the details of the gun much better Contrast / Background If you are going for a clean detail look ...ie product photography the key is your background As you can see you have shadows , and if you increase exposure to bring out details of gun , the shadows are worst. Sure you can remove in post but much easier to not have them in the first place White Background This is the easiest but not very artistic . Buy one of these cheapie slave strobes http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Mount+Type_Edison+Screw+in+Base&ci=1239&N=3988592064+4089094173 Buy a clamp style light holder ( or desk lamp ) Point this at your white sheet . I use two on either side so you can't see the light in the picture Even with a grey wrinkly sheet as backdrop if you OVEREXPOSE the background ( I use 1.5 to 2 stops over ) it looks pure white When your flash goes off, it triggers the slave lights and lights your background Only problem is you need a bit of distance from gun to background, which means you need to hold it up. Needless to say this is a bit hard with a AR . As I have found out many times it easily falls over when balance on bottom of mag! As you can see form pic, upper is sitting on a white piece of plastic . Much quicker to remove in post than a complex shadow Black Background You need a bit of room for this but watch this video on inverse square law Essentially just have the black background at a greater distance away form subject compared to flash to subject distance https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Y0JBVVYtZs Dark background This is where you will have the most creative fun with and cost nothing ! I believe you said you have Canon 430 flash. This flash is capable of high speed sync Google high speed sync for lots of info Short version is this flash is able to sync much faster than typical sync speeds of 1/250 Most cameras will have SS sync at 1/60 with speedlight by default ....which is why I much prefer to shoot manual ! Problem is 1/60 can still draw in to much ambient light The trick is go manual , increase SS to at least 1/1000 to 1/5000 Set iso to whatever you want ( keep in mind some cameras in manual will still auto iso , which messes things up ! ) Set aperture to what you want If you take pic WITHOUT flash, picture is often underexposed , which is fine because you are tying to darken background Either take test pic or use your metering in the viewfinder to make sure background is underexposed With flash on pointed at gun, your exposure should be correct since the TTL of flash causes it to hit hard to make up for the underexposed settings End result, should be darkended background with proper exposure on gun Lots of info online regarding using high speed sync outdoors , especially with portrait photos Only downside is it requires more power from flash For some artistic fun, google " CTO gel outdoor portrait " . You have all the gear . Lifetime supply of CTO gel is $1 |
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White Balance Your on camera white balance does not affect the RAW file. Since you are using lightroom anyways play with WB there . The metadata has your WB info intact so you can use that in post Contrast / Metering There is no right wrong answer to best background and lighting. It really is style dependent and the look you are going for If you are trying for detail photos the biggest dilemma with black guns is , well they are black and the details tend to be underexposed when you use Matrix ( Nikon ) or Evaluative ( Canon ) Here is why. The Matrix looks at the whole frame and tries to guess what the best exposure will be . Problem with black guns is the gun will tend to be underexposed since it "sees all the background" and factors that in for metering You should switch to spot metering ( or center weighted ) Just remember that it will now meter on the center of viewfinder...which is fine if gun is in center of frame. If it is not, then meter and use your "AE lock button " to hold the metering and then re frame shot before you push shutter release all the way Generally this will bring out the details of the gun much better Contrast / Background If you are going for a clean detail look ...ie product photography the key is your background As you can see you have shadows , and if you increase exposure to bring out details of gun , the shadows are worst. Sure you can remove in post but much easier to not have them in the first place White Background This is the easiest but not very artistic . Buy one of these cheapie slave strobes http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Mount+Type_Edison+Screw+in+Base&ci=1239&N=3988592064+4089094173 Buy a clamp style light holder ( or desk lamp ) Point this at your white sheet . I use two on either side so you can't see the light in the picture Even with a grey wrinkly sheet as backdrop if you OVEREXPOSE the background ( I use 1.5 to 2 stops over ) it looks pure white When your flash goes off, it triggers the slave lights and lights your background Only problem is you need a bit of distance from gun to background, which means you need to hold it up. Needless to say this is a bit hard with a AR . As I have found out many times it easily falls over when balance on bottom of mag! As you can see form pic, upper is sitting on a white piece of plastic . Much quicker to remove in post than a complex shadow http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c347/TRG42/for%20sale/DPMS-9_zpsxmbl0eqw.jpg Black Background You need a bit of room for this but watch this video on inverse square law Essentially just have the black background at a greater distance away form subject compared to flash to subject distance https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Y0JBVVYtZs Dark background This is where you will have the most creative fun with and cost nothing ! I believe you said you have Canon 430 flash. This flash is capable of high speed sync Google high speed sync for lots of info Short version is this flash is able to sync much faster than typical sync speeds of 1/250 Most cameras will have SS sync at 1/60 with speedlight by default ....which is why I much prefer to shoot manual ! Problem is 1/60 can still draw in to much ambient light The trick is go manual , increase SS to at least 1/1000 to 1/5000 Set iso to whatever you want ( keep in mind some cameras in manual will still auto iso , which messes things up ! ) Set aperture to what you want If you take pic WITHOUT flash, picture is often underexposed , which is fine because you are tying to darken background Either take test pic or use your metering in the viewfinder to make sure background is underexposed With flash on pointed at gun, your exposure should be correct since the TTL of flash causes it to hit hard to make up for the underexposed settings End result, should be darkended background with proper exposure on gun Lots of info online regarding using high speed sync outdoors , especially with portrait photos Only downside is it requires more power from flash For some artistic fun, google " CTO gel outdoor portrait " . You have all the gear . Lifetime supply of CTO gel is $1 View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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OK I did two more this morning. The first one is with the flash, the second one is sunlight only. The differences between today versus last night, and some other notes: -I didn't need to have the overhead lighting on as there was plenty of sunlight to light the work area (my kitchen) -Pics are now being shot in RAW -I had the white balance set to "sunlight", not AWB -The flash picture was exposed for 1/60th second -The sunlight only pic was exposed for 1" -Both pics were shot at f8.0. -I had to bring up the contrast on the flash pic in Lightroom (downloaded the free trial) How does this look? Heavy, detailed critiquing welcome! I like the second, sunlight only pics a lot more., other than the glare on the backstrap of the gun and the shadows. I'd really like to eliminate both. White Balance Your on camera white balance does not affect the RAW file. Since you are using lightroom anyways play with WB there . The metadata has your WB info intact so you can use that in post Contrast / Metering There is no right wrong answer to best background and lighting. It really is style dependent and the look you are going for If you are trying for detail photos the biggest dilemma with black guns is , well they are black and the details tend to be underexposed when you use Matrix ( Nikon ) or Evaluative ( Canon ) Here is why. The Matrix looks at the whole frame and tries to guess what the best exposure will be . Problem with black guns is the gun will tend to be underexposed since it "sees all the background" and factors that in for metering You should switch to spot metering ( or center weighted ) Just remember that it will now meter on the center of viewfinder...which is fine if gun is in center of frame. If it is not, then meter and use your "AE lock button " to hold the metering and then re frame shot before you push shutter release all the way Generally this will bring out the details of the gun much better Contrast / Background If you are going for a clean detail look ...ie product photography the key is your background As you can see you have shadows , and if you increase exposure to bring out details of gun , the shadows are worst. Sure you can remove in post but much easier to not have them in the first place White Background This is the easiest but not very artistic . Buy one of these cheapie slave strobes http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Mount+Type_Edison+Screw+in+Base&ci=1239&N=3988592064+4089094173 Buy a clamp style light holder ( or desk lamp ) Point this at your white sheet . I use two on either side so you can't see the light in the picture Even with a grey wrinkly sheet as backdrop if you OVEREXPOSE the background ( I use 1.5 to 2 stops over ) it looks pure white When your flash goes off, it triggers the slave lights and lights your background Only problem is you need a bit of distance from gun to background, which means you need to hold it up. Needless to say this is a bit hard with a AR . As I have found out many times it easily falls over when balance on bottom of mag! As you can see form pic, upper is sitting on a white piece of plastic . Much quicker to remove in post than a complex shadow http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c347/TRG42/for%20sale/DPMS-9_zpsxmbl0eqw.jpg Black Background You need a bit of room for this but watch this video on inverse square law Essentially just have the black background at a greater distance away form subject compared to flash to subject distance https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Y0JBVVYtZs Dark background This is where you will have the most creative fun with and cost nothing ! I believe you said you have Canon 430 flash. This flash is capable of high speed sync Google high speed sync for lots of info Short version is this flash is able to sync much faster than typical sync speeds of 1/250 Most cameras will have SS sync at 1/60 with speedlight by default ....which is why I much prefer to shoot manual ! Problem is 1/60 can still draw in to much ambient light The trick is go manual , increase SS to at least 1/1000 to 1/5000 Set iso to whatever you want ( keep in mind some cameras in manual will still auto iso , which messes things up ! ) Set aperture to what you want If you take pic WITHOUT flash, picture is often underexposed , which is fine because you are tying to darken background Either take test pic or use your metering in the viewfinder to make sure background is underexposed With flash on pointed at gun, your exposure should be correct since the TTL of flash causes it to hit hard to make up for the underexposed settings End result, should be darkended background with proper exposure on gun Lots of info online regarding using high speed sync outdoors , especially with portrait photos Only downside is it requires more power from flash For some artistic fun, google " CTO gel outdoor portrait " . You have all the gear . Lifetime supply of CTO gel is $1 Have any examples of this black background for your guns? |
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Here is another on a black background. I used two speed lights for lighting.
Long Range Rig by Luke Crawford, on Flickr |
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