How far from your rifles mechanical zero is your sight in zero?



My mechanical zero does not line up with the hash marks on the sight but I have an equal amount of adjustment on both sides from that point.



My sight in zero is significantly left of the mechanical zero but the hash marks line up closer to where the mechanical zero presumably should be.

Why does it matter? You have plenty of travel to either side.

I'm fine with it, call it curiosity.  In this rifles specific case however it is used for 600 and 1000 yard matches, I would prefer my mechanical and sight in zeros to be closer together for no better reason than I just want it that way.



 

Count it of the the left
Then count left to right
See what half is and whre your zero is to that

What you are describing is "Mechanical zero" the no wind sight in zero is substantially different than the mechanical zero.  That is what has me curious how far off others might be.



 

Yours look like 3 min difference
That is within spec for fixed front sight tower
And not to bad

My RR NM had to go back it was 9 mins off when new
It came back something like 2 1/2

On my RRA, I have 1/4 adjustments, mine 8 clicks left for no wind zero.

Blessed with a half a minute left as my "No Wind Zero" from marked Mech Zero on my RRA.

Mechanical zero, is when both hash marks line up.   That's why it's called that.  It's a repeatable starting point for windage

I'm inclined to disagree but if that is how you choose to utilize the tic marks on the sight (and it works for you) so be it.  In my view the mechanical center is the mid way point of adjustment on the sight, adjust sight to its max deflection in one direction and count the number of clicks to get to max deflection in the other direction.  Divide that by two and that is the mechanical center of adjustment range.  The hash marks do not necessarily indicate the mechanical center of the adjustment range (though they should).





 

Try to think of it this way.  If you were at 0 latitude and fired ten rds. East, they'd be high, then repeat to the West with the same setting, they'd be low.  Mech. 0 would be the diff. if you 0'ered in each direction.  This is elevation.  The same logic applies for longitude rds. will drift left or right depending on which direction of launch.  Something to do with the Earth spinng.  

Most scopes with turrets have the ability to let the user to set the 0.  And that 0 may have 56 clicks Left and 60 clicks Right.  But it's still 0 for them, at that time and place.

Wait, you can see the hash marks on a sight base? Lucky.

Its a non-issue really, if you use a setscrew FSB with proper flats on the barrel. You will need a yellow or white Testor's paint stick (or maybe nail polish), and a white paint stick or grease pencil from home depot to fill and highlight your rear sight hashmarks. Here's how I do it:

First you must mark mechanical zero. All your wind zero "clicks" will be counted from here. The object is to center the rear sight and mark it boldly across the knob and sight base so there is no way you will ever be off a whole turn. You need more than just the hashmarks on the rear of the sight base, which are hard to see, which is why you also mark the wind knob. Whiten the rear sight hashmarks (with white paint crayon from home depot) and line it up as dead center as you can. Then make two heavy paint marks across the knob, down the side, and onto the sight base. When you align the big paint marks, then look at the hash marks, it will be obvious if you are off a whole turn, you can quickly center it, and you will never make the "shit I was off a whole turn" mistake. You can zero your wind quickly and put on what it needs without error. <place holder for pic>

If you have an adjustable FSB: Now we are going to set the front sight base for wind zero, and loctite it in place. I like to temporarily raise the sights high to magnify the wind error, and after I set the FSB, I will lower them back to where they need to be for my 200 yd zero. In this way I can get my no-wind zero very close to mechanical zero. So, I run the rear sight up at least 50 clicks (1/4 min) or 8 min or so, and elevate the front post as well, until you are hitting on or under the bull at 50. Get a rough zero there, then move to 200 yards for fine tuning .Adjust the little screws (a tiny bit at a time, and tighten up each adjustment) until you are in the middle as close as you can without touching the wind knob. I usually put wicking loctite (green 290 I think) on the screws and around the front ring (non-gas) of the FSB. Voila. Never had one come loose until I rebarreled it. Then they just need a little heat from a torch to loosen.

I think on every upper I set up like this, no-wind zero is within 3-4 clicks of mech zero. I'm anal that way. YMMV