So I came across a FAL at the local gunstore and the dang thing managed to follow me home...

Anyway, Its an IMBEL gear receiver imported by Pacific Armaments and bulit into an M444 Sporter by IAI in Texas.  From the little bit I've read, it sounds like these were pretty good rifles except for the muzzle brakes.  Anyone have any experience getting them off so I can put a better one on there?  

Can't wait to take it out to the range!

Beauty...!!!

what did ya pay for it?...(I got one years ago)  just curious....

Forgot to put that part in, All together it was $895

Very nice FAL. I am curious as to what kind of muzzle device that is. I have an Imbel model that I assembled from a parts kit a few years ago. I built it on an Imbel Gear logo receiver that was on my G1 and rebuilt the G1 on a DSA receiver. I got the parts kit for $400 from a private seller. It even came with the bayonet and scabbard.

From what I've read it was used during the ban years.  it only has two rows of three ports at the 10 and 2 position and seems to increase felt recoil.  Still looking for how to get it off there and replace it with a normal muzzle brake...

It sounds similar to the one on mine, but mine has 4 rows of three ports at 1 o'clock, 5 o'clock, 7 o'clock, and 11 o'clock. This muzzle device is original to the Imbel FALs. Bear in mind, as far as recoil goes, you are going to feel it. This is a 7.62 NATO (.308) rifle. Mine shoots great and very smooth. It does have some recoil, but that is to be expected from a rifle in this caliber. I would leave the muzzle device on there. Your recoil with change very little to none with a different muzzle device. Shoot the FAL and enjoy it.

According to this article, it's a US part that is welded on.
IMO, I'd just shoot it. If you just have to change it, it's left hand threads and you would need another US part for 922r compliance if you put an imported flash hider back on.

ETA: It's a Hesse brake. Apparently the originals had sharp recoil and an improved version was planned.

I had one of those faux Stoll muzzle devices made by TAPCO and I can say from my own experience, having shot my rifle in 2-gun matches with the TAPCO and the Entreprise Zero Climb brake that it does make a difference in follow up shots.

Don't take my word for it, check Adam Firestone's report: http://www.cruffler.com/trivia-April01-testFire.html
Here's a guy who predates even some of the FALFiles experts.  If you have time, it would be well spent checking out his FAL-related articles on the Cruffler page.

HTH

Interesting. I wonder how an original Imbel flash hider compares in recoil and rise to that Entreprise Zero Climb brake.

FAL muzzles are LEFT hand threads.  So turn RIGHT to loosen.



Any evidence of pinning or welding?    If not, give it a spin.

The M444 were a ban period gun sold by Dan's Sporting goods.

So the muzzle break had to be permanently attached.  I think they used silver solder like the others at the time. So you will have to heat it above 1000 degrees to remove that break.  A MAPP gas torch will get you there.

Or you could turn the break on a lathe then chase the threads

OP I have the same rifle and here's what I found....The muzzle device is spot welded to the barrel in two places, 3 and 9 o'clock on my rifle. If you look very closely at the finsh you may be able to spot where the weld is. I used a 1/2 endmill set up in a drill press to cut thru the welded area until it was thin enough to break free (I set the depth stop on the DP to make sure I didn't get into the barrel). The Hesse made "brake" has a reputation for being a recoil enhancing device instead of a muzzle brake (the FAL files has several threads about it).

 Mine still had the original muzzle threads and all I had to do was thread on an original Imbel muzzle device after reaming it a bit to get it to index correctly. You can do this using a 1/2 in. drill bit set up in good DP vise. Go slowly and use a light touch on the DP or you'll cut too deep, you only want to take off a few thousandths at a time. The standard MB indexes off the face of the muzzle crown of not indexed correctly you can compress the metal at the crown by over torquing it and screw up the crown. YOU SHOULD NOT TRY TO TORQUE IT PAST 30 DEGREES, 15 DEGREES IS IDEAL .

The notch for the tube style bayonet should be at 6 o'clock when the brake is tightened down. if it isn't then lightly ream til it's within 15 degrees when hand tight and torque the rest of the way into position. You will need a cheap 18mm wrench and will have to grind one side of it to thin it down to fit into the flats on the MB...

http://www.theakforum.net/forums/123-fn-fal-discussion/166021-m-444-muzzle-brake-removal.html

You are in FL?

Go to FALfiles and find DYNOMIKE.

Tell him stimp DARES him to fix that thing.