After you receive your new mags, dis-assemble them one at a time, and clean them thoroughly with alcohol. At this point, once you have thoroughly de-oiled the mag bodies, I suggest you paint them, inside and out, with Brownell's AlumaHyde II paint in a color of your choice. Why? Because new Parkerizing, thoroughly de-greased is an almost perfect paintable surface, and the AL II epoxy paint will rustproof your mags until 10 years from now when the springs wear through both the paint and underlying Parkerizing. I've done this, and it works.
If you don't want to do the above, then since the mags are probably parkerized, then coat the inside and outside of the mag body with a thin film of lubricant. Do the same to the follower and most especially the spring. If any parts are blued, as opposed to parkerized, apply a good coat of auto WAX, not polish. This will keep the blueing from rusting, but you will need to renew the wax every so often, depending on usage.
If you have older mags, take measurements of the new springs while you have the new mags dis-assembled. Your old mag springs should not be more than two coils shorter than the new springs. If so, replace them, and order some extra springs for the future, if you happen upon some mags that simply need new springs to make them work. Mag springs with rust pitting should either be relegated to range use, or discarded. Discoloration remaining after removal of surface rust is tolerable, but pitting, unless very minor, as in a few tiny spots, is problematic. Range use only, and buy the replacement springs before Hillary gets elected, heaven forbid.
Mag springs, and followers are wear components, although most folks don't think of them as such, but they should. both of these components wear out with use.
Concur with advice to buy CMI mags from 44mag.com, as they are also GI-issue, and currently as good as it gets; Fully on par with the best of the NIW GI mags, seldom seen nowadays. I've done so myself, FWIW.