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Posted: 6/5/2015 10:00:00 PM EDT
[#1]
I can tell you I bought three of them just like it for $349 each.
I sold one to a friend, I kept one and gave one to my Father in law. Mine and the one I sold have many thousands of rounds through them without failure and the other is still new in the box . I fyou have something less than $1k in it, you will likely never get hurt. |
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Posted: 6/5/2015 10:20:27 PM EDT
[#2]
Not all GI parts will fit the Chicom rifle. The flash hider will change out easily to a GI one. If memory serves some of the M14S had problems with headspace so it might be a good idea to have your gunsmith check it for you. Oh, the GI op rod will not interchange with the Chinese one without some modifications. These are things I learned when I owned one I picked up for about $350 new many moons ago. Also, if it is still in the Chinese stock with the rubber but pad, find a M1A Springfield takoff stock and swap it out. Works just fine.
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Posted: 6/5/2015 10:20:45 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can tell you I bought three of them just like it for $349 each. I sold one to a friend, I kept one and gave one to my Father in law. Mine and the one I sold have many thousands of rounds through them without failure and the other is still new in the box . I fyou have something less than $1k in it, you will likely never get hurt. About $900 in value between the trades and cash. The guns were already on consignment, so I could fund something like this. I also found about 200 rounds of South African 7.62mm in the back of my gun closet from a few years ago. |
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Posted: 6/6/2015 3:20:41 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not all GI parts will fit the Chicom rifle. The flash hider will change out easily to a GI one. If memory serves some of the M14S had problems with headspace so it might be a good idea to have your gunsmith check it for you. Oh, the GI op rod will not interchange with the Chinese one without some modifications. These are things I learned when I owned one I picked up for about $350 new many moons ago. Also, if it is still in the Chinese stock with the rubber but pad, find a M1A Springfield takoff stock and swap it out. Works just fine. Metric threads on the barrel for flash suppressor nut and gas cylinder lock. Metric threads on the gas cylinder for the gas cylinder plug. The diameters are slightly different for the gas cylinder I.D. and the piston O.D. There is a lock screw for the barrel on the front right side of the receiver and a corresponding hole partially into the barrel. If a Polytech, the connector lock will be shorter than GI (flush with outer receiver wall). If Norinco, the connector lock is GI-length. None shipped with real flash suppressors. Many have welded flash suppressor nuts (by the importer). What this means: If you swap for a US barrel, remove the screw first from the original barrel before unscrewing the barrel. It will not be needed again. (It wasn't needed on the original Chinese barrel either). You must use a US gas cylinder lock on a US barrel, and a metric gas cylinder lock on a Chinese barrel. Piston, gas cylinder, and plug must be either all-Chinese or all-US. They can be on either barrel. You may force thread a US flash suppressor nut onto a Chinese barrel. It can go on and off after forcing as per usual disassembly/re-assembly. Be very careful not to cross-thread it (sideways). You are technically cross-threading it, but do so straightly.  If you swap stocks on a Polytech, either fill the gap or swap a US connector lock to keep it from walking right into the disassembly position. Every original Chinese import I've seen had a flip-up buttplate and kit compartment (copy of GI). Most Chinese stocks are oversize and crappy. Full-auto parts vs not: Norinco rifles have US-copy operating rods, sears, and connector locks, which were 3 of the select-fire parts in the M14. Polytech rifles have these 3 parts modified to semi-auto-only parts. Either Chinese op-rod (Polytech/Norinco) will fully interchange with a US op-rod. They are also forged. The receivers are forged as well. The barrel and everything on the rifle, except the stock and rear sight, are typically great parts. The headspace could be on the long side of 7.62 NATO, or not. It could increase too much over time-in-service, or not. A NATO field gauge and/or your fired brass will tell the tale. Chinese rifles shipped with copied "WCE" marked rear sights. I've only found 1 non-crappy one in 8 rifles I've been through. That's why I never buy any WCE-marked sight, as I cannot be sure of its origin. I greatly prefer Chinese rifles to any of the US commercial copies once the sight and stock are changed, and the headspace is verified.  |
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Posted: 6/6/2015 7:52:38 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Most GI parts will fit. These are the differences: Metric threads on the barrel for flash suppressor nut and gas cylinder lock. Metric threads on the gas cylinder for the gas cylinder plug. The diameters are slightly different for the gas cylinder I.D. and the piston O.D. There is a lock screw for the barrel on the front right side of the receiver and a corresponding hole partially into the barrel. If a Polytech, the connector lock will be shorter than GI (flush with outer receiver wall). If Norinco, the connector lock is GI-length. None shipped with real flash suppressors. Many have welded flash suppressor nuts (by the importer). What this means: If you swap for a US barrel, remove the screw first from the original barrel before unscrewing the barrel. It will not be needed again. (It wasn't needed on the original Chinese barrel either). You must use a US gas cylinder lock on a US barrel, and a metric gas cylinder lock on a Chinese barrel. Piston, gas cylinder, and plug must be either all-Chinese or all-US. They can be on either barrel. You may force thread a US flash suppressor nut onto a Chinese barrel. It can go on and off after forcing as per usual disassembly/re-assembly. Be very careful not to cross-thread it (sideways). You are technically cross-threading it, but do so straightly.
If you swap stocks on a Polytech, either fill the gap or swap a US connector lock to keep it from walking right into the disassembly position. Every original Chinese import I've seen had a flip-up buttplate and kit compartment (copy of GI). Most Chinese stocks are oversize and crappy. Full-auto parts vs not: Norinco rifles have US-copy operating rods, sears, and connector locks, which were 3 of the select-fire parts in the M14. Polytech rifles have these 3 parts modified to semi-auto-only parts. Either Chinese op-rod (Polytech/Norinco) will fully interchange with a US op-rod. They are also forged. The receivers are forged as well. The barrel and everything on the rifle, except the stock and rear sight, are typically great parts. The headspace could be on the long side of 7.62 NATO, or not. It could increase too much over time-in-service, or not. A NATO field gauge and/or your fired brass will tell the tale. Chinese rifles shipped with copied "WCE" marked rear sights. I've only found 1 non-crappy one in 8 rifles I've been through. That's why I never buy any WCE-marked sight, as I cannot be sure of its origin. I greatly prefer Chinese rifles to any of the US commercial copies once the sight and stock are changed, and the headspace is verified.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Not all GI parts will fit the Chicom rifle. The flash hider will change out easily to a GI one. If memory serves some of the M14S had problems with headspace so it might be a good idea to have your gunsmith check it for you. Oh, the GI op rod will not interchange with the Chinese one without some modifications. These are things I learned when I owned one I picked up for about $350 new many moons ago. Also, if it is still in the Chinese stock with the rubber but pad, find a M1A Springfield takoff stock and swap it out. Works just fine. Metric threads on the gas cylinder for the gas cylinder plug. The diameters are slightly different for the gas cylinder I.D. and the piston O.D. There is a lock screw for the barrel on the front right side of the receiver and a corresponding hole partially into the barrel. If a Polytech, the connector lock will be shorter than GI (flush with outer receiver wall). If Norinco, the connector lock is GI-length. None shipped with real flash suppressors. Many have welded flash suppressor nuts (by the importer). What this means: If you swap for a US barrel, remove the screw first from the original barrel before unscrewing the barrel. It will not be needed again. (It wasn't needed on the original Chinese barrel either). You must use a US gas cylinder lock on a US barrel, and a metric gas cylinder lock on a Chinese barrel. Piston, gas cylinder, and plug must be either all-Chinese or all-US. They can be on either barrel. You may force thread a US flash suppressor nut onto a Chinese barrel. It can go on and off after forcing as per usual disassembly/re-assembly. Be very careful not to cross-thread it (sideways). You are technically cross-threading it, but do so straightly.
If you swap stocks on a Polytech, either fill the gap or swap a US connector lock to keep it from walking right into the disassembly position. Every original Chinese import I've seen had a flip-up buttplate and kit compartment (copy of GI). Most Chinese stocks are oversize and crappy. Full-auto parts vs not: Norinco rifles have US-copy operating rods, sears, and connector locks, which were 3 of the select-fire parts in the M14. Polytech rifles have these 3 parts modified to semi-auto-only parts. Either Chinese op-rod (Polytech/Norinco) will fully interchange with a US op-rod. They are also forged. The receivers are forged as well. The barrel and everything on the rifle, except the stock and rear sight, are typically great parts. The headspace could be on the long side of 7.62 NATO, or not. It could increase too much over time-in-service, or not. A NATO field gauge and/or your fired brass will tell the tale. Chinese rifles shipped with copied "WCE" marked rear sights. I've only found 1 non-crappy one in 8 rifles I've been through. That's why I never buy any WCE-marked sight, as I cannot be sure of its origin. I greatly prefer Chinese rifles to any of the US commercial copies once the sight and stock are changed, and the headspace is verified.
Excellent information... KitBuilder knows his Chinese M14s. I've owned more than a dozen, and my first two MK14s were built on Norinco receivers. I prefer the look of the heel stamped Poly Tech receiver, and kept two of them. As for the flash hider, one of my Poly Tech M14s came with a lugged functional flash hider. It is a rough Chinese copy of a GI flash hider. It was not installed, just included with the sling. You can see it pictured top left. 
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Posted: 6/6/2015 11:03:21 AM EDT
[#7]
Polytechs are good guns, with a few minor problem areas, that are usually easily dealt with.
#1. Replace the op rod spring and hammer spring. Chinese spring tend to be softer, undersized, and not a good idea to keep in the gun. #2. There have been some issues with the sears on the hammer and trigger. Not saying your will have those issues, but, once you take it apart to put a new hammer spring, that is the time to do the trigger and hammer. #3. Some sight knobs have issues with holding zero. More than likely it is the spring inside the knob. IF you need to replace the knobs(big IF), you can use Garand knobs, which are often easier to find. Stay away from any sight knob marked WCE-M. All Chinese sight knobs are marked that way, and you don't want to replace bad knobs with more bad knobs. As for checking the headspace, that may be a moot point. Most gunsmiths don't have NATO spec gauges, and Polytechs have chambers cut to NATO specs, which will swallow a commercial gauge. A gun can have a longer NATO spec chamber, and be perfectly safe. Most of them have crappy looking chu wood stocks, which is soft. Getting a USGI stock is easy, and they usually look much better. Though as was stated, you might have to put a small spacer instide the stock, so the spring guide lock doesn't work out. Very easy to do with a piece of a popcicle stick, or some epoxy. I have 3 Polys, and I have done all these mods to mine, whether they needed them or not. I am like H2Oman, I think they are excellent guns for the money, and better than some of the more expensive guns that are out there.e Recoil spring guide fix for GI stock. 
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Posted: 6/6/2015 2:27:31 PM EDT
[#8]
Wasn't there an issue with the Poly bolts and heat treat? Soft?
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Posted: 6/6/2015 8:36:35 PM EDT
[#9]
Ok, I'm going to derail your thread a bit, there is a guy on GB selling norinco kits, read cut receiver, F/A guns, for 650, with the little research I've done, it seems re welding a M14 receiver is bad ju ju, so the question is, is there any reason a person should consider buying such a kit?
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Posted: 6/6/2015 9:07:59 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok, I'm going to derail your thread a bit, there is a guy on GB selling norinco kits, read cut receiver, F/A guns, for 650, with the little research I've done, it seems re welding a M14 receiver is bad ju ju, so the question is, is there any reason a person should consider buying such a kit? I don't like the sounds of it... can you post a link? |
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Posted: 6/6/2015 9:20:08 PM EDT
[#11]
Not from my phone, if you get on gunbroker, and look for norinco M14, you will see them, supposed to be demilled LE rifles.
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Posted: 6/6/2015 9:44:26 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Most GI parts will fit. These are the differences: Metric threads on the barrel for flash suppressor nut and gas cylinder lock. Metric threads on the gas cylinder for the gas cylinder plug. The diameters are slightly different for the gas cylinder I.D. and the piston O.D. There is a lock screw for the barrel on the front right side of the receiver and a corresponding hole partially into the barrel. If a Polytech, the connector lock will be shorter than GI (flush with outer receiver wall). If Norinco, the connector lock is GI-length. None shipped with real flash suppressors. Many have welded flash suppressor nuts (by the importer). What this means: If you swap for a US barrel, remove the screw first from the original barrel before unscrewing the barrel. It will not be needed again. (It wasn't needed on the original Chinese barrel either). You must use a US gas cylinder lock on a US barrel, and a metric gas cylinder lock on a Chinese barrel. Piston, gas cylinder, and plug must be either all-Chinese or all-US. They can be on either barrel. You may force thread a US flash suppressor nut onto a Chinese barrel. It can go on and off after forcing as per usual disassembly/re-assembly. Be very careful not to cross-thread it (sideways). You are technically cross-threading it, but do so straightly.
If you swap stocks on a Polytech, either fill the gap or swap a US connector lock to keep it from walking right into the disassembly position. Every original Chinese import I've seen had a flip-up buttplate and kit compartment (copy of GI). Most Chinese stocks are oversize and crappy. Full-auto parts vs not: Norinco rifles have US-copy operating rods, sears, and connector locks, which were 3 of the select-fire parts in the M14. Polytech rifles have these 3 parts modified to semi-auto-only parts. Either Chinese op-rod (Polytech/Norinco) will fully interchange with a US op-rod. They are also forged. The receivers are forged as well. The barrel and everything on the rifle, except the stock and rear sight, are typically great parts. The headspace could be on the long side of 7.62 NATO, or not. It could increase too much over time-in-service, or not. A NATO field gauge and/or your fired brass will tell the tale. Chinese rifles shipped with copied "WCE" marked rear sights. I've only found 1 non-crappy one in 8 rifles I've been through. That's why I never buy any WCE-marked sight, as I cannot be sure of its origin. I greatly prefer Chinese rifles to any of the US commercial copies once the sight and stock are changed, and the headspace is verified.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Not all GI parts will fit the Chicom rifle. The flash hider will change out easily to a GI one. If memory serves some of the M14S had problems with headspace so it might be a good idea to have your gunsmith check it for you. Oh, the GI op rod will not interchange with the Chinese one without some modifications. These are things I learned when I owned one I picked up for about $350 new many moons ago. Also, if it is still in the Chinese stock with the rubber but pad, find a M1A Springfield takoff stock and swap it out. Works just fine. Metric threads on the gas cylinder for the gas cylinder plug. The diameters are slightly different for the gas cylinder I.D. and the piston O.D. There is a lock screw for the barrel on the front right side of the receiver and a corresponding hole partially into the barrel. If a Polytech, the connector lock will be shorter than GI (flush with outer receiver wall). If Norinco, the connector lock is GI-length. None shipped with real flash suppressors. Many have welded flash suppressor nuts (by the importer). What this means: If you swap for a US barrel, remove the screw first from the original barrel before unscrewing the barrel. It will not be needed again. (It wasn't needed on the original Chinese barrel either). You must use a US gas cylinder lock on a US barrel, and a metric gas cylinder lock on a Chinese barrel. Piston, gas cylinder, and plug must be either all-Chinese or all-US. They can be on either barrel. You may force thread a US flash suppressor nut onto a Chinese barrel. It can go on and off after forcing as per usual disassembly/re-assembly. Be very careful not to cross-thread it (sideways). You are technically cross-threading it, but do so straightly.
If you swap stocks on a Polytech, either fill the gap or swap a US connector lock to keep it from walking right into the disassembly position. Every original Chinese import I've seen had a flip-up buttplate and kit compartment (copy of GI). Most Chinese stocks are oversize and crappy. Full-auto parts vs not: Norinco rifles have US-copy operating rods, sears, and connector locks, which were 3 of the select-fire parts in the M14. Polytech rifles have these 3 parts modified to semi-auto-only parts. Either Chinese op-rod (Polytech/Norinco) will fully interchange with a US op-rod. They are also forged. The receivers are forged as well. The barrel and everything on the rifle, except the stock and rear sight, are typically great parts. The headspace could be on the long side of 7.62 NATO, or not. It could increase too much over time-in-service, or not. A NATO field gauge and/or your fired brass will tell the tale. Chinese rifles shipped with copied "WCE" marked rear sights. I've only found 1 non-crappy one in 8 rifles I've been through. That's why I never buy any WCE-marked sight, as I cannot be sure of its origin. I greatly prefer Chinese rifles to any of the US commercial copies once the sight and stock are changed, and the headspace is verified.
I wouldn't say that the US op-rod will fully interchange. It wouldn't on mine and I had to have a gunsmith fit it for me. This may not be the case on all M14S but it was on mine so fully is not correct. (Mine was a later one just before the assault weapon ban) I can't be more specific since I sold it several years ago to purchase a real Springfield M1A. |
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Posted: 6/6/2015 9:45:32 PM EDT
[#13]
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=487128716
IMHO, and admittedly without knowing all of the details ... I would pass. |
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Posted: 6/11/2015 1:28:26 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As for the flash hider, one of my Poly Tech M14s came with a lugged functional flash hider. It is a rough Chinese copy of a GI flash hider. It was not installed, just included with the sling. You can see it pictured top left. http://www.athenswater.com/images/POLY_M-14S.jpg http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=487128716  Thanks.The few pics I've seen of factory select-fire Norinco rifles all had M14 (only) in large print on the receiver heel. They all had real flash suppressors as well. I agree that the heel-marked receivers are the best-looking semi-autos. My first was a heel-marked Norinco M14S. The Polytechs have nicer markings. I have one Norinco which is only marked with the serial number. A guy in a gunshop advised me they existed, but I was skeptical until I won one on Gunbroker a couple weeks later. I've been tempted to see if Orion (or someone) could engrave US markings on the heel to make it the ultimate poser rifle. (I know, sacrilege!) |
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