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Posted: 1/26/2015 9:31:42 PM EDT
I picked up my first M1 Garand today, on a trade. I took it out to fire it a couple of times and it will not cycle the next round out of the stripper clip and into the chamber. It does eject the fired casing and the bolt closes, it will just not pick up the next round and cycle it into the chamber. Can any of you advise what it might be? Could it be the operating rod spring? I would appreciate any help I can get. Once I get time, I'm going to take a few pictures so you guys can help me determine exactly what I have. What exactly would I get to photograph for this to be determined? For now, here are a few pics I snapped, just because I know the rules when posting about a new acquisition.
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Posted: 1/26/2015 9:55:59 PM EDT
[#1]
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Posted: 1/26/2015 9:59:11 PM EDT
[#2]
Go here http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/ for instructions on how to dismantle, clean, lube, and re-assemble your rifle. Do this first, and assume nothing in the meantime.
It is possible that the op rod spring is weak, and if so, a new one is in order. DO NOT buy a so-called "extra power" spring. A standard one is the correct one. |
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Posted: 1/26/2015 10:17:49 PM EDT
[#3]
Check out the CMP forums. Those guys know their shit!
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Posted: 1/26/2015 11:00:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Definitely strip it down, clean it if necessary and properly lube it. The CMP and the Garandgear website are good places to go for information. Cleaning, properly lubricating and replacing the op rod spring will take care of the majority of issues with the M1 (in my experience).
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Posted: 1/26/2015 11:37:41 PM EDT
[#5]
Most commercial ammo is too hot for the M1 Garand unless it has an adjustable gas plug and is properly adjusted.
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Posted: 1/26/2015 11:52:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Sounds like it's short stroking.
It's ejecting the round but the bolts not going back far enough to catch the next round. Look up short stroking m1. Couple of possibilies. Break it down, clean it and inspect before reassembling read up Fyi, it's an enbloc or clip. Not strip or magazine. Also, look for any signs of rubbing on the stock from the op rod. Op rod rubbing barrel or lower band. Also pay attention to greasing it. Don't glob but ensure a light coat is applied to the areas called out on the site. Read. Lots of info out there. |
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Posted: 1/27/2015 12:07:26 AM EDT
[#7]
Read this.
short stroking |
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Posted: 1/27/2015 9:26:31 AM EDT
[#8]
A Garand spring should be between 19 - 20.25" long. I would replace the spring, unless it falls within the specs. Stay away from extra power Wolf springs. Orion 7 makes good springs and are what most people recommend. Lube it up properly. Which means oil on rotating parts, and grease on sliding parts. I use moly based wheel bearing grease, but any good grade of grease will do.
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Posted: 1/27/2015 12:35:55 PM EDT
[#9]
Simple stuff first. Make sure you are using appropriate ammo
Disassemble the gas system clean it ( leave it dry no oil at all) and make sure it is reassembled properly with lock screw tight. Make sure it is properly greased. 85% chance this is all you need to do. As with most semi autos replacing the recoil spring ( in this case the op rod spring) in an unknown round count gun is a good idea as well. I had a similar experience with a garand. Had an old well worn one I have shot a lot and it functions with the minimal listed load in the loading manual. My new gun needed an extra couple grains of powder to run. |
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Posted: 1/28/2015 9:02:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Ditto to the "clean and replace oprod spring". The oprod spring is what pushes the next round up.
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Posted: 1/28/2015 9:48:05 PM EDT
[#11]
Guess he figured it out
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Posted: 1/28/2015 9:48:06 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Go here http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/ for instructions on how to dismantle, clean, lube, and re-assemble your rifle. Do this first, and assume nothing in the meantime. It is possible that the op rod spring is weak, and if so, a new one is in order. DO NOT buy a so-called "extra power" spring. A standard one is the correct one. +1 |
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Posted: 1/28/2015 9:53:35 PM EDT
[#13]
I highly recommend a Orion 7 spring kit. New springs and a proper lubing will fix most problems in a Garand.
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Posted: 1/29/2015 10:50:17 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Guess he figured it out No sir. I'm waiting on my new Orion 7 spring to get here. |
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Posted: 1/29/2015 2:02:24 PM EDT
[#15]
Where in NC??
PM if you want |
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Posted: 1/29/2015 2:03:49 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Where in NC?? PM if you want PM sent. |
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Posted: 1/29/2015 6:52:39 PM EDT
[#17]
+ 3 on that Orion 7 spring. Get the entire spare parts kit, if you can swing it, it's worth the $100 to just have on hand.
Seems like the price has gone up since I bought mine, but still worth it IMHO. Enjoy that rifle, she's a beauty. Hking |
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Posted: 1/29/2015 7:43:43 PM EDT
[#18]
First off:
Is the gas plug screw tight?? Second pull the oprod and measure the piston on the end.. It should be a min .525.....use calipers. Third is the rifle properly greased? Fourth.. What ammo are you using? Check those and report back.. If I was closer I'd run my gages through it for you.
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Posted: 1/29/2015 7:55:16 PM EDT
[#19]
Get a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "30cal service rifle". Brownells has them. You won't find a more helpful book.
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Posted: 1/30/2015 3:43:28 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
+ 3 on that Orion 7 spring. Get the entire spare parts kit, if you can swing it, it's worth the $100 to just have on hand. Seems like the price has gone up since I bought mine, but still worth it IMHO. Enjoy that rifle, she's a beauty. Hking +4 on anything from Orion 7. A rebarrel job I sent to Mr. Pucci was back in my hands perfectly headspaced in 8 days from dropping it in the post. Class act! |
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Posted: 1/31/2015 5:35:15 PM EDT
[#21]
Yeah, the very first thing to check is if the gas plug is tight. The one right underneath the muzzle of the barrel.
If so, then you go on to the properly cleaned and lubricated. Then you see if the op rod is rubbing on the stock somewhere by doing the tip test without the spring in. And yes, you need a good spring. But more than likely it wouldn't short stroke if it was weak. It would probably just not completely load the next round or totally close the bolt. Then maybe the op rod itself, if it's bent. Although you have to be careful about that because they do have a bend in them by design, so..... After that, I don't know. Yeah, ammo. But most .30-06 ammo will have enough oomph to cycle the action unless you are using managed recoil rounds. But you should stick with M2 ball or stuff that was made specifically for the garand. Which I think AE makes some and maybe some others. |
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Posted: 2/18/2015 5:01:51 AM EDT
[#22]
Still waiting on those springs?
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Posted: 2/18/2015 10:35:39 AM EDT
[#23]
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Posted: 2/18/2015 10:42:07 AM EDT
[#24]
Make sure it is lubed properly, using grease on sliding parts, oil on rotation parts.
Spring should be at least 19 1/2" long. Make sure gas cylinder lock screw is tight. If it is a new replacement stock, look for rub marks inside the stock from the op rod.
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Posted: 2/24/2015 10:48:19 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
First off:Is the gas plug screw tight?? Second pull the oprod and measure the piston on the end.. It should be a min .525.....use calipers. Third is the rifle properly greased? Fourth.. What ammo are you using? Check those and report back.. If I was closer I'd run my gages through it for you. +1 on this. I had a Garand short stroke on me once before too, came to find out that the gas system was loose!!  Tightened her up and rechecked it and worked like a charm. 
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