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Originally Posted By MSUbulldog21: My apologies, I jumped the gun and thought you were referring to Form 1 cans in general and their quick wait time as opposed to F4 cans. I’ve had quite a few “discussions” lately regarding F1 vs F4 and the supposed lack of quality with home made cans. View Quote No problem at all. I should have quoted the post. Nick took delivery of one of my cans last week for a re-core job, so hopefully, in a couple of months, I'll be back to quiet time. |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: And the race is on! Nick just sent me these pics. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/32016/59DCD0C2-E393-4A51-BDEA-348843BB2BD1_jpe-1328744.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/32016/2ADA895A-C4F9-41DA-9061-E718D3CC3BE8_jpe-1328745.JPG View Quote That damn Tipton gun vise is like the proverbial black casting couch |
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I've stayed relatively employed most of my adult life. That should count as miracle #1 - Wandering_Moses
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Originally Posted By MSUbulldog21: That damn Tipton gun vise is like the proverbial black casting couch View Quote HA yes it is. I need to email Nick asap. I forgot to since I just moved. (I also threw away my tipton gun vice during the move) EDIT: I dont have a facebook, I just saw his post on page 3. Bummer... Anyone got a 5.56 build they dont want anymore?? ha |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Ecco won! Still no Form 4 stamp at my FFL yet, but this showed up in the mail today. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/32016/E48BCB41-2E0B-410C-942F-944A6583D249_jpe-1332858.JPG View Quote Awesome, need more pics of the guts and endcap! Nice rifle too! |
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I've stayed relatively employed most of my adult life. That should count as miracle #1 - Wandering_Moses
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: Is there any reason you welding the core? If it wasnt in a tube I would understand. I am trying to learn as I am trying to source parts at the moment. View Quote Welded cores save weight & increase internal volume; slightly thinner skirts & no blast chamber spacer. Also eliminates issues with things loosening up, as the welded cores are a tight fit to begin with, and the threads are coated in Rocksett before final assembly. Serviceable is important for rimfire cans or those which will see cast bullets since lead deposits need to be removed mechanically, but for cans that will be used with high velocity rifle rounds & jacketed bullets, there's no need to open them up. When the only two metals are titanium and stainless steel, they can be ultrasonic cleaned if one so desires. I personally don't bother with rifle cans. |
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Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: Welded cores save weight & increase internal volume; slightly thinner skirts & no blast chamber spacer. Also eliminates issues with things loosening up, as the welded cores are a tight fit to begin with, and the threads are coated in Rocksett before final assembly. Serviceable is important for rimfire cans or those which will see cast bullets since lead deposits need to be removed mechanically, but for cans that will be used with high velocity rifle rounds & jacketed bullets, there's no need to open them up. When the only two metals are titanium and stainless steel, they can be ultrasonic cleaned if one so desires. I personally don't bother with rifle cans. View Quote Thanks a ton. Ha it just brings up some more questions. I was going to get two tubes and end caps from spc. If I want to build one that is servicable (take apart) I think I can manage that. (or send it in for a recore ha) I am kind of lost with trying to duplicate the turbo K. I do not have the ability to weld. What is the way around this? if I get my stamp back and serialize the tube where the blast chamber would be, would that be something that could be recored with welding and be tubeless? I am triple reading this right now because I think I am confusing myself. What I am thinking is if you would do the recore service, (I would buy a 4.5 inch 1.5 OD tube (or 1.625?) in put the serial and such in the first inch or so, then it could be cut to blast length and the cores could be added and welded? Side question to this, is Ti the best material to use still? I know yhm uses inconel and stainless(dont know what grades and all the metallurgy details). I appreciate your expertise. I know I want one that I can take apart for .22. Both would be built for 5.56. The turbo K rip off is the one that I am a little hazy on where to start with. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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……….
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anything can be done to save old aac tirant 9 with massive poi shift?? maybe weld on perm tri lug mount?? any suggestions? will that correct poi shift sent to acc years ago they painted it and sent it back.
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You don't understand, them boys killed my dog!
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Well the good news is I was able to get one of the last few phoenix kits available for one build.
I am pretty pumped right now. Thanks for helping my new addiction guys. Now I just need to get stuff for my K build and I will be like a kid with 20 WHOLE DOLLARS in toys r us. EDIT: I got the 6 inch model. Seems like the 7 and 8 inch model is available. I know that these will not make anything "quiet" but this is only to take the edge off if something goes bump in the night. Sometimes ear pro is the last thing you think about. I had a shooting in my apartment complex last night. I just moved and it got me thinking. Man, it would suck if I needed to fire a gun inside a small room or hallway. I live in a nice part of town, but hey, people still get shot in the nice parts of Cincinnati ha. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: Well the good news is I was able to get one of the last few phoenix kits available for one build. I am pretty pumped right now. Thanks for helping my new addiction guys. Now I just need to get stuff for my K build and I will be like a kid with 20 WHOLE DOLLARS in toys r us. View Quote It really is quite addicting. I have MANY more planned for ECCO. Once he gets caught up I have a special project planned involving a reflex mount |
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I've stayed relatively employed most of my adult life. That should count as miracle #1 - Wandering_Moses
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ohhhh...
I am going to submit my form 1 this week.... I was waiting to see if I could even get parts. I was worried about the tube the most. After the form 1, I will have to find someone with a drill press.... should be a fun experience. I know when people get their trump bucks, some stuff is going to fly off of the shelves quick. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: ohhhh... I am going to submit my form 1 this week.... I was waiting to see if I could even get parts. I was worried about the tube the most. After the form 1, I will have to find someone with a drill press.... should be a fun experience. I know when people get their trump bucks, some stuff is going to fly off of the shelves quick. View Quote If you have a machine shop nearby and they’re cool with it they can drill the endcap while you’re standing there. |
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I've stayed relatively employed most of my adult life. That should count as miracle #1 - Wandering_Moses
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That is the plan at the moment. I might know some people who can help. I am in no rush and don't want to press my luck with anything. One step at a time. Need to get the form 1 done first.
I am some what scratching my head on what mount to use. I have it down to the ASR mount, or YHM. I am not worried about the ASR like some people. It works perfect if the user doesnt booger something up. I like the idea behind the Q mount... but that color though. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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If you’re going the ECCO route, discuss with Nick first. I bought a $50 titanium end cap, spend money on drilling if perfectly centered only to have him make a new one that is integral with the core. I should have cut the bottom off a beer can and taped it to it before sending it out. It would have saved me about $75.
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: If you’re going the ECCO route, discuss with Nick first. I bought a $50 titanium end cap, spend money on drilling if perfectly centered only to have him make a new one that is integral with the core. I should have cut the bottom off a beer can and taped it to it before sending it out. It would have saved me about $75. View Quote That was my thought... I will discuss it with nick, but I dont want to get anyone in trouble. I am sure as shit not going to write the ATF a letter like half the dummies around here. As excited as I am, I still need to do the form 1 while everything is closed... prints and such are a little concern but I am sorting through information around here to get it done. Edit: That is awesome, ATF sends you finger print cards.... for free. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: If you’re going the ECCO route, discuss with Nick first. I bought a $50 titanium end cap, spend money on drilling if perfectly centered only to have him make a new one that is integral with the core. I should have cut the bottom off a beer can and taped it to it before sending it out. It would have saved me about $75. View Quote Yep, if you're thinking welded core, get the cheapest aluminum or blem cap you can find, because it can't be used and can't be shipped back (once drilled, it's a silencer part). That's why the caps on SS the traps I make are extremely basic knurled 6061 aluminum things with generous thread tolerances; as a solvent trap, the weak material doesn't matter, and for the ones which are converted into silencers, there's minimal investment in a part that ends up in the chip bin. |
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Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: Yep, if you're thinking welded core, get the cheapest aluminum or blem cap you can find, because it can't be used and can't be shipped back (once drilled, it's a silencer part). That's why the caps on SS the traps I make are extremely basic knurled 6061 aluminum things with generous thread tolerances; as a solvent trap, the weak material doesn't matter, and for the ones which are converted into silencers, there's minimal investment in a part that ends up in the chip bin. View Quote I will send you a facebook message in the next coming week. I like the end cap of the phoenix, and this one would be a modular one. I still have to order the parts for my welded one. On a scale of 1-10 for my excitement... it is about a 43. I digress. I am being patient and I want my first one to be nice and not freezer plugs and such. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: If you’re going the ECCO route, discuss with Nick first. I bought a $50 titanium end cap, spend money on drilling if perfectly centered only to have him make a new one that is integral with the core. I should have cut the bottom off a beer can and taped it to it before sending it out. It would have saved me about $75. View Quote Tape is expensive. Reach in there with a dowel and press-fit the can into the threads. Kharn |
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: That was my thought... I will discuss it with nick, but I dont want to get anyone in trouble. I am sure as shit not going to write the ATF a letter like half the dummies around here. As excited as I am, I still need to do the form 1 while everything is closed... prints and such are a little concern but I am sorting through information around here to get it done. Edit: That is awesome, ATF sends you finger print cards.... for free. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: Originally Posted By ScottsGT: If you’re going the ECCO route, discuss with Nick first. I bought a $50 titanium end cap, spend money on drilling if perfectly centered only to have him make a new one that is integral with the core. I should have cut the bottom off a beer can and taped it to it before sending it out. It would have saved me about $75. That was my thought... I will discuss it with nick, but I dont want to get anyone in trouble. I am sure as shit not going to write the ATF a letter like half the dummies around here. As excited as I am, I still need to do the form 1 while everything is closed... prints and such are a little concern but I am sorting through information around here to get it done. Edit: That is awesome, ATF sends you finger print cards.... for free. And they're quick with the cards, less than a week for me to get a big pack of them. Now I don't have to be stingy and try to time all my Form 1s to happen at the same time. It's good to print your kids too, just in case. Our 4yo loved looking at her prints vs mine, but the 2yo was not having it and wanted only pictures of an index finger. Any idea how much an envelop with two fingerprint cards costs to mail? Kharn |
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Originally Posted By Kharn: And they're quick with the cards, less than a week for me to get a big pack of them. Now I don't have to be stingy and try to time all my Form 1s to happen at the same time. It's good to print your kids too, just in case. Our 4yo loved looking at her prints vs mine, but the 2yo was not having it and wanted only pictures of an index finger. Any idea how much an envelop with two fingerprint cards costs to mail? Kharn View Quote HA. I will have to have my wifes done. I need to look into the trust stuff more. I would like my brother and wife to be on it. Just need to weed through information more to cross my t's and dot the i's. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: HA. I will have to have my wifes done. I need to look into the trust stuff more. I would like my brother and wife to be on it. Just need to weed through information more to cross my t's and dot the i's. View Quote Just be aware that the more people/prints they have to vet, the longer the wait may be.... |
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Seems like it would be worth it though. If something happens to me, they can duke it out to see who gets it.
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: Seems like it would be worth it though. If something happens to me, they can duke it out to see who gets it. View Quote Do a trust per item with you as the only RP. After you receive the stamp if you happen to decide it would be good to have more people on a given trust you can do that without Uncle Sniffles’ permission... |
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Originally Posted By rsolomon: Do a trust per item with you as the only RP. After you receive the stamp if you happen to decide it would be good to have more people on a given trust you can do that without Uncle Sniffles’ permission... View Quote I may have to IM you with what you fully mean, but I think I have the idea. Damn yall be so smart! but seriously, thanks a ton for the help so far. and MSUbulldog.... would your reflex mount be something that would work... with say.... the mk12 system? |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: I may have to IM you with what you fully mean, but I think I have the idea. Damn yall be so smart! but seriously, thanks a ton for the help so far. and MSUbulldog.... would your reflex mount be something that would work... with say.... the mk12 system? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: Originally Posted By rsolomon: Do a trust per item with you as the only RP. After you receive the stamp if you happen to decide it would be good to have more people on a given trust you can do that without Uncle Sniffles’ permission... I may have to IM you with what you fully mean, but I think I have the idea. Damn yall be so smart! but seriously, thanks a ton for the help so far. and MSUbulldog.... would your reflex mount be something that would work... with say.... the mk12 system? Not exactly like the Mk12 but it will be for a 20” rifle with a 15” handguard. Basically I want one of these but made by Nick and not MMW... |
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I've stayed relatively employed most of my adult life. That should count as miracle #1 - Wandering_Moses
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Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: Yep, if you're thinking welded core, get the cheapest aluminum or blem cap you can find, because it can't be used and can't be shipped back (once drilled, it's a silencer part). View Quote @Sixtysixdeuce - what's the difference between a cap drilled by a customer and something like the front caps SiCo sells? E.g. https://silencerco.com/bravo-front-cap.html https://silencerco.com/charlie-front-cap-224cal.html Is this one of those "once it touched other parts it became transmuted" sort of ATF things???? |
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Originally Posted By rsolomon: @Sixtysixdeuce - what's the difference between a cap drilled by a customer and something like the front caps SiCo sells? E.g. https://silencerco.com/bravo-front-cap.html https://silencerco.com/charlie-front-cap-224cal.html Is this one of those "once it touched other parts it became transmuted" sort of ATF things???? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By rsolomon: Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: Yep, if you're thinking welded core, get the cheapest aluminum or blem cap you can find, because it can't be used and can't be shipped back (once drilled, it's a silencer part). @Sixtysixdeuce - what's the difference between a cap drilled by a customer and something like the front caps SiCo sells? E.g. https://silencerco.com/bravo-front-cap.html https://silencerco.com/charlie-front-cap-224cal.html Is this one of those "once it touched other parts it became transmuted" sort of ATF things???? Dead air makes something similar. There was one company that made adapters so you could use them on F1 tubes, another supplier of them would not be a bad idea... as far as why that’s legal and drilled end caps are not, who fucking knows. I just roll with and don’t ask questions |
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I've stayed relatively employed most of my adult life. That should count as miracle #1 - Wandering_Moses
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Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: Yep, if you're thinking welded core, get the cheapest aluminum or blem cap you can find, because it can't be used and can't be shipped back (once drilled, it's a silencer part). That's why the caps on SS the traps I make are extremely basic knurled 6061 aluminum things with generous thread tolerances; as a solvent trap, the weak material doesn't matter, and for the ones which are converted into silencers, there's minimal investment in a part that ends up in the chip bin. View Quote |
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We should have shotguns for this
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Originally Posted By rsolomon: @Sixtysixdeuce - what's the difference between a cap drilled by a customer and something like the front caps SiCo sells? E.g. https://silencerco.com/bravo-front-cap.html https://silencerco.com/charlie-front-cap-224cal.html Is this one of those "once it touched other parts it became transmuted" sort of ATF things???? View Quote There isn't if it's attached to a silencer. If that's the route you want to go, just don't buy the cap until you have your F1 in hand That said, those would be useful for serviceable builds, but still not conducive to a welded core. Welded cores going into F1 tubes are still retained by the threads, but the core is welded to them, so I make the cap with a baffle diameter section about .100" past the threads with a register that the front baffle seats on. If you look at the photo at the top of the page, you can see the bead behind the threads. That's just not really possible even with steel caps from other sources, and certainly can't weld a 17-4 core to a Ti or Al cap. Yes, I could do a welded core that is retained by a cap which isn't welded to it, but that rather defeats the purpose, since there's still the potential for the cap to come loose, and it would still need a blast chamber spacer that adds weight and consumes internal volume. |
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Originally Posted By el_hombre: Nick, how "official". Does an end cap need to be? Would the beer can bottom work or does it need to be an actual cap with threads? View Quote ATF doesn't have any kind of ruling on that which I'm aware of, but I would say it needs to securely attach to the tube and be capable of containing the pressure of actually firing the weapon through it. |
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Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: There isn't if it's attached to a silencer. If that's the route you want to go, just don't buy the cap until you have your F1 in hand That said, those would be useful for serviceable builds, but still not conducive to a welded core. Welded cores going into F1 tubes are still retained by the threads, but the core is welded to them, so I make the cap with a baffle diameter section about .100" past the threads with a register that the front baffle seats on. If you look at the photo at the top of the page, you can see the bead behind the threads. That's just not really possible even with steel caps from other sources, and certainly can't weld a 17-4 core to a Ti or Al cap. Yes, I could do a welded core that is retained by a cap which isn't welded to it, but that rather defeats the purpose, since there's still the potential for the cap to come loose, and it would still need a blast chamber spacer that adds weight and consumes internal volume. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: Originally Posted By rsolomon: @Sixtysixdeuce - what's the difference between a cap drilled by a customer and something like the front caps SiCo sells? E.g. https://silencerco.com/bravo-front-cap.html https://silencerco.com/charlie-front-cap-224cal.html Is this one of those "once it touched other parts it became transmuted" sort of ATF things???? There isn't if it's attached to a silencer. If that's the route you want to go, just don't buy the cap until you have your F1 in hand That said, those would be useful for serviceable builds, but still not conducive to a welded core. Welded cores going into F1 tubes are still retained by the threads, but the core is welded to them, so I make the cap with a baffle diameter section about .100" past the threads with a register that the front baffle seats on. If you look at the photo at the top of the page, you can see the bead behind the threads. That's just not really possible even with steel caps from other sources, and certainly can't weld a 17-4 core to a Ti or Al cap. Yes, I could do a welded core that is retained by a cap which isn't welded to it, but that rather defeats the purpose, since there's still the potential for the cap to come loose, and it would still need a blast chamber spacer that adds weight and consumes internal volume. Sorry, I meant the part about not being able to send back the drilled cap because it was now a silencer part. If one is allowed to have extra caps purchased from SiCo why not extra caps drilled by maker and SOT? Not that I expect logic from ATF but that was my confusion... |
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Originally Posted By rsolomon: Sorry, I meant the part about not being able to send back the drilled cap because it was now a silencer part. If one is allowed to have extra caps purchased from SiCo why not extra caps drilled by maker and SOT? Not that I expect logic from ATF but that was my confusion... View Quote It would have to be usable on a non-silencer item. That's why dead air, etc. have compensators & brakes which accept the same end cap, makes it a multi-use part, not an obligate silencer part. If you have another tube which can accept it that is poked full of holes & slots, no problem. I find most would rather just let the cap go than spend more to build another part to host it which they'll never use. Alternately, if you submit a drawing/description with your F1 that details extra end caps and it's approved that way, you're golden. |
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Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: It would have to be usable on a non-silencer item. That's why dead air, etc. have compensators & brakes which accept the same end cap, makes it a multi-use part, not an obligate silencer part. If you have another tube which can accept it that is poked full of holes & slots, no problem. I find most would rather just let the cap go than spend more to build another part to host it which they'll never use. Alternately, if you submit a drawing/description with your F1 that details extra end caps and it's approved that way, you're golden. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: Originally Posted By rsolomon: Sorry, I meant the part about not being able to send back the drilled cap because it was now a silencer part. If one is allowed to have extra caps purchased from SiCo why not extra caps drilled by maker and SOT? Not that I expect logic from ATF but that was my confusion... It would have to be usable on a non-silencer item. That's why dead air, etc. have compensators & brakes which accept the same end cap, makes it a multi-use part, not an obligate silencer part. If you have another tube which can accept it that is poked full of holes & slots, no problem. I find most would rather just let the cap go than spend more to build another part to host it which they'll never use. Alternately, if you submit a drawing/description with your F1 that details extra end caps and it's approved that way, you're golden. How are commercial cans like a SilencerCo Hybrid handled? Are those owners not supposed to switch to smaller end caps unless it is listed? Kharn |
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Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: ATF doesn't have any kind of ruling on that which I'm aware of, but I would say it needs to securely attach to the tube and be capable of containing the pressure of actually firing the weapon through it. View Quote Given ATF prosecuted a guy for having illegal silencers which were composed of toilet paper tubes and teddy bear guts because he intended them to be silencers, I’d personally say if the maker INTENDED the tin can to be an end cap that it’s an end cap. That should in no way be considered advice or telling anyone what rules/restrictions they should place on their business/customers/etc! |
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Originally Posted By rsolomon: Given ATF prosecuted a guy for having illegal silencers which were composed of toilet paper tubes and teddy bear guts because he intended them to be silencers, I’d personally say if the maker INTENDED the tin can to be an end cap that it’s an end cap. That should in no way be considered advice or telling anyone what rules/restrictions they should place on their business/customers/etc! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By rsolomon: Originally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: ATF doesn't have any kind of ruling on that which I'm aware of, but I would say it needs to securely attach to the tube and be capable of containing the pressure of actually firing the weapon through it. Given ATF prosecuted a guy for having illegal silencers which were composed of toilet paper tubes and teddy bear guts because he intended them to be silencers, I’d personally say if the maker INTENDED the tin can to be an end cap that it’s an end cap. That should in no way be considered advice or telling anyone what rules/restrictions they should place on their business/customers/etc! Or a potato. Pay for fast shipping or during the summer. Kharn |
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Originally Posted By Kharn: How are commercial cans like a SilencerCo Hybrid handled? Are those owners not supposed to switch to smaller end caps unless it is listed? Kharn View Quote It's the fact that it can be used on an alternate, non-silencer, device. There's a variance process, Mf'rs can use, to get parts deemed non-silencer. If a non-licensee was to try this process, you'd have to legally make the item and send it to the ATF for a decision. Don't expect said item back. That whole SIG MPX muzzle brake debacle, that got classified as a silencer , is an example of said process. That one ended in court and not in SIG's favor. |
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Ok, I love learning.
Let's say with this 6 inch tube and end cap I just bought. Say I do not have access to someone with a lathe or drill press. Without ruining the end cap from maverick (which I do want to use since this will not be the welded can), would I be able to drill like a 1/16th hole in the center with a hand drill and that be considered the silencer? The end cap would need to be eventually need to become the right size? Could this be done with a recore? I think a lot is very clear from y'all taking me to school, but now I am thinking of silly what-if's. It seems like there is a lot of grey area because of the cap hole size... If I wanted this to be a .30 cal can and wanted a .22 cap, I would need to include the .30 cap and the .22 cap in my drawings?? At that point, why not just thread the tube to take a silencerco, yhm or some other brands endcap? ETA: I also figured out that you can take the 13 inch model Geissele MK8 rail and cut it at a good spot to make it 11 inches. Hmmmmm how hard would that be for a machinist? If you cut right at the end of the 2nd (from front) mlok cutout, you are right at 11 and 1/8 ish... Seems like that would be perfect for an 11.5 barrel. This is just a thought I had as I typed and measured with my rifle that is next to me. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: Ok, I love learning. Let's say with this 6 inch tube and end cap I just bought. Say I do not have access to someone with a lathe or drill press. Without ruining the end cap from maverick (which I do want to use since this will not be the welded can), would I be able to drill like a 1/16th hole in the center with a hand drill and that be considered the silencer? The end cap would need to be eventually need to become the right size? Could this be done with a recore? I think a lot is very clear from y'all taking me to school, but now I am thinking of silly what-if's. It seems like there is a lot of grey area because of the cap hole size... If I wanted this to be a .30 cal can and wanted a .22 cap, I would need to include the .30 cap and the .22 cap in my drawings?? At that point, why not just thread the tube to take a silencerco, yhm or some other brands endcap? ETA: I also figured out that you can take the 13 inch model Geissele MK8 rail and cut it at a good spot to make it 11 inches. Hmmmmm how hard would that be for a machinist? If you cut right at the end of the 2nd (from front) mlok cutout, you are right at 11 and 1/8 ish... Seems like that would be perfect for an 11.5 barrel. This is just a thought I had as I typed and measured with my rifle that is next to me. View Quote I believe the end cap has to be able to pass the size of the bullet for the caliber you are filing F1 for. But if you are having Nick do the re-core, I would have that conversation with him. He may require something specific depending on your machining capabilities. Make the call and have a chat with him. |
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Originally Posted By chargerdude70: I believe the end cap has to be able to pass the size of the bullet for the caliber you are filing F1 for. But if you are having Nick do the re-core, I would have that conversation with him. He may require something specific depending on your machining capabilities. Make the call and have a chat with him. View Quote Thank you, that is the game plan. I was just thinking about it.(out loud) HA you know how hard it is to do differential equations while thinking about a build? I am channeling my inner monk to concentrate. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC:why not just thread the tube to take a silencerco, yhm or some other brands endcap? View Quote So long as it's one deemed a non-silencer part (usually sold at retail is a clue), this is a fine idea. However, what does this really gain you? Plenty of metering has been done to show there's not a huge difference in adding the smaller endcap, from say 45-9 or 30-556. 22lr is another story and, honestly, rimfire deserves its own design. Not only do I not want the weight of a 9, 45, or 30cal suppressor on the end of my 22, but I don't want dirty rimfire clogging up my other suppressors. For this reason alone, suppress everything. |
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@Sixtysixdeuce
Hey ECCO. When do you think you will be able to produce a 9mm solvent trap. I just had my form 1 approved for a 8" 9mm can. I want something quality and durable. I know you are beyond busy. I just wanted to check before I do anything stupid. |
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Ok, my tube and end cap are out for shipment.
I ordered the mini flash hider from YHM that just released. (finally a good looking muzzle device from them) I also order the standard omega mount instead of the Kurz kit to give the blase chamber more volume. I decided on the yhm because of the price and the fact that it is actually a QD system but without the Keymo Price tag. Is anyone else using the YHM mounts? The ASR was a close second in this running. |
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Science is not about proving anything right, It is about proving something can't be wrong.
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Originally Posted By USAFtacFANAC: Ok, my tube and end cap are out for shipment. I ordered the mini flash hider from YHM that just released. (finally a good looking muzzle device from them) I also order the standard omega mount instead of the Kurz kit to give the blase chamber more volume. I decided on the yhm because of the price and the fact that it is actually a QD system but without the Keymo Price tag. Is anyone else using the YHM mounts? The ASR was a close second in this running. View Quote I am, and I'm pissing my wife off because it's just the mount and the mini brake right now on my desk as a fidget toy. Click-click-click all night as I just work them together/apart. Kharn |
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Originally Posted By pjomalley: anything can be done to save old aac tirant 9 with massive poi shift?? maybe weld on perm tri lug mount?? any suggestions? will that correct poi shift sent to acc years ago they painted it and sent it back. View Quote Have you tried timing it with the booster? |
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Received solvent trap from Nick on Jan. 20. Stamp on Feb. 14. Nick received my suppressor Feb. 25 for a recore. On it's way back to me today. I'm really pleased with this timeline for custom work.
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