planning to make it out of stainless. maybe titanium.. its going to pull double duty on my 10.5 in 5.56 AR, a 16" 6.8 SPC
and a 19" Mosin 7.62x54R.  this is going to be made to fit a YHM QD FH
should I come down in my tube diameter?
do I need want the extra blast baffle or just run it straight into the steps? (its going to be dealing with a lot of fire)
should I put an inside lip on the exit endcap or leave it flush?
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Nice design.

That seems like a lot of cones for eight inches. you might consider going to six cones.  That will increase your overall volume to manage gas.

Also, increase the spacing between the blast baffle and the next regular baffle.   :)

Just take off the first three baffles, or increase the spacing of all baffles?

I'm reading this on my little phone.  I miscounted your baffles.  I'd go down to about seven.

.750 is healthy skirt. 

I'd add a .25 space between your first three baffle and drop your "flat" blast baffle altogether.

A couple of questions:

What is your plan to clip your baffles?

For my understanding, why did you go with stepped baffles rather than cones?

Have you computed the weight of all this stainless?

I didn't plan to clip them, I understand that can lead to inaccuracy
Looking at stepped baffles because I understand they tend to be quieter than smooth
Haven't looked at weight, but the materials are free in stainless

Take a look over at form1suppressor.boards.net/

Look for the double hybrid clip (dhc).  Rusty over there is getting excellent results with that method.  It's what I'm using on my next two cans.  No POI shift.

Good luck with your build! 

If you're going to be using this for HV ammo (which it looks like you are), I'd keep my baffle spacing between .38-.43". Larger spacing is typical of designs meant for lower pressure rounds.

There's no issue w/ your baffle count, but I'd go to smooth 60* cones (.06" ish thick) and double the blast baffle thickness. Stepped baffles are heavier and really don't offer that much advantage to quantify their weight.

If you wanted to make the second baffle thicker than the rest, but thinner than the first, there's no problem in doing so. Your primary (blast) baffle will, however, deal with the brunt of abuse. Since you're using a YHM FH, your blast baffle will see some reprieve.

Your tube diameter isn't going to hurt suppression, just an addition to overall weight. A 1.5" x 8" design can do what you want.

Clipping your baffles is wise. It absolutely aids in suppression (the goal of a suppressor) and should not adversely affect accuracy, POI is another story.

I wouldn't say you HAVE to clip baffles, my 8" x 1.5 form 1 is not clipped (and it's just freeze plugs) and it sounds good with a consistent 1-2" straight down POI shift. A local SOT builds his pretty much like your plans, stepped cones and no clips, his customers say they sound as good as the big name cans but with much less POI shift. We talked suppressor design quite a bit when I was planning mine. 

If you do clip I'd absolutely go opposing dual clips, should give you a suppression advantage without the POI shift, I get aggravated at the big POI shift of my boughten cans when switching between hosts and unsuppressed vs suppressed.

All-stainless is going to be super heavy, I'm guessing 87 lbs based on your drawing.  I would at least consider using titanium for the tube, end cap and most of the baffles.  I would also ditch the stepped baffles, that adds a lot of weight for no real advantage.  I just finished the DHC clip on my 9mm can which will mostly be used on a Rossi .357 rifle that I'm converting to a SBR.

so where can one buy a titanium tube and semi pre-formed cones?

These look great! Would you mind sharing what bit's you used for the cuts? Did you drill vertical for the first and then mill horizontal for the second?

I've read through Rusty's stuff on Form1 and plan to use the DHC on my two builds. Just down to drilling/clipping now and want to make sure I do it properly.

Lots of places but you have to do your homework.  Some are better than others and some seldom have stuff in stock.  You already implied you have the machinery using the free stainless, just buy the material and go from there.

Thanks man, Rusty is a true pioneer and I am just following his recipe for success. I used a 3/16 ball end mill and a 1/4 flat end mill using light horizontal cuts on the milling machine.  Don't forget to use a v-block or you might wreck a baffle, don't ask how I know. Afterwards I cleaned them up under magnification using abrasive polishers and diamond paste.

updated design in the OP
now how am I doin? ordered in a YHM QD phantom FH that should be in today to get the dimentions for the muzzle end.