So I'm getting ready to submit my form and before I spend $200 I want to make sure these DIY kits work. I don't have the scratch for a manufactured one and I like DIY projects anyway.

I've been looking at the "solvent trap" kits from places like SD Tactical and I'm wondering how durable these are as well as if they offer a decent level of suppression.

Mainly, I want it for my .308 SA for hunting as I don't like shooting without hearing protection and it's not really practical to hunt with it. Also, if I have it, I'd like to be able to use it for range practice.

I've seen some videos and read some comments but nothing overly comprehensive about both durability (will it melt if I shot a couple mags) and suppression level. I see that they claim "OSHA hearing safe" for their premade core but what about the freezer plug builds?

If you have one or any experience with these please share your thoughts. Thanks.

EDIT: oh, also, what is the difference between using a break vs a flash hider when the suppressor is attached? I know what each does on its own just not sure about the difference with the suppressor.

There are several "solvent trap" manufacturers out there these days.

I bought mine from Diversified Machine before they had a website (nothing sketchier than e-mailing some guy about a questionable product and paying via paypal gift, right? ), and I highly recommend his work. For $310, I ended up with an 8" x 1.625" Ti can with freeze-plug baffles that weighed 16oz and used YHM QD mounts. On my .300 BLK, it was on par with the YHM can.

I use it on both my .300 and a 5.56. Approximately 700-800 rounds later I'm not noticing any major erosion of the first baffle.

I use brake-style mounts on all my guns with the can to serve as something of a sacrificial baffle. Since you can't (legally) replace the baffles yourself without paying the $200 tax again and I used freeze plugs, I felt like it was good insurance.

Thanks for the feedback. My main concern was I'd spend all the money only to find it doesn't really work or last.

Anyone else? More than one data point would be helpful.

You can definitely build something close to a commercial offering.
Personally, I'd shy away from freeze plugs and go for 60* cones or the radial baffles being offered.
There is no performance difference between a Flash Hider and Muzzle Brake, when it is operating inside of a suppressor. They're usually used as a QD mount, cross-platform mount, and as a sacrificial baffle (as smith stated).

A year and a half ago, when I built mine, the options for pre-made "storage cups" simply didn't exist. It was formed freeze plugs or a buy lathe!

In today's market, I totally agree. Spend the coin on some of the cones or radials. In fact, when my last two stamps come in, that is my plan as well.

I saw a guy in the desert with a ronin pro kit, 2nd gen and he had it on his AR 5.56. All t7075 except for the spacer and first baffle which was SS. It worked. Not super fast during schedule but not benchvrest. I don't know how many rounds through it. He told me he was just seeing if it would work. He was going to get one for his 9mm.

Thanks again for the feedback. Sounds like these work pretty well and won't be a waste of money. Now to figure out which one.

Diversified Machine is always mentioned as one of the better/best form 1 kits out there, if I were to do it all over now I would go with the DM kits, but they weren't readily available when I built my 3 cans from SD Tactical parts using some formed freeze plugs (in the 30 cal) and some cups (in the 22).  The .22 LR can built from the c tube kit and cups is ridiculously quiet - it's got a bit more volume than the commercial 22 cans out there, so it's probably equally as quiet (or very close) to the commercial offerings.  The 6" .30 cal can I built from an SD kit and formed freeze plugs isn't as quiet as my commercial SilencerCo Omega, but it was 1/4 the price and it has proven to be plenty rugged so far.  I've put probably 5-6 hundred rounds of 300 Blackout through it (subsonic 300 blackout is relatively easy on cans), but during a mini 3 gun match I put a few hundred rounds of 7.62x39 through it while mounted on an AK just for fun, shot it plenty fast for the match and it has held up just fine.  All my kit cans are direct thread mounted to rifles so no muzzle break or flash hider is used on mine.  I just completed a 9mm can on an SD b tube kit and I haven't shot it yet, but I would not buy the b tube from SD Tactical - it's way to heavy even after having a bit machined off the outside of the can - definitely go with a DM can if you're doing a pistol can.

How exactly does a muzzle brake act as a sacrificial baffle? I plan on direct screw on for my first form  can with an SD coin for the first baffle.

TIA

Because the initial blast hits the back face of the brake before it gets to any baffles so all the erosion happens to the brake, which is easy to replace, and not a baffle, which only a manufacturer can replace.

Google blast baffle erosion, or muzzle brake erosion and you will find pictures of the effect.

Thanks for the tip. I was going to order from DM but they don't seem to have anything in stock. Of course, I'm not entirely sure what size to get, or what end cap or adapter to go with. I'm inclined to use a YHM qd brake adapter but not sure which. Suggestions welcome. Thanks.

Go to form1suppressor boards. Loads and loads of information and helpful people. I've been lurking there for last few weeks planning out my options.

5.56:
6.5-7" Tube
or
7.5" for Reflex

30cal:
7-8"
or
8.5" for reflex

Any of the end caps
Griffin QD Adapters (or DM 2.5" Reflex)
Radial cones and spacers (he will send the correct sizes and cut spacers)

Thanks. I tried to contact him on the website but haven't heard back yet. I'll try again in a couple days or PM him on the form1 site.

SD Tactical just got a cease and desist from the ATF, maybe your guy did too.

I used a SDTA 8" TI can with coned freeze plugs and a TI VSR for the first baffle and SS blast chamber on my form 1 . After initial "settling" its been working great. I have maybe 250 bucks in it. Just required some drilling on my cheapo harbor freight drill press.