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Posted: 11/5/2014 7:54:41 PM EDT
[#1]
How do those cans sound to you? 6" vs 8" and compared to any others you may have?
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Posted: 11/5/2014 7:55:51 PM EDT
[#2]
8" tube, well 8.35" plus 1" of end caps.
Down the stack 
Baffle stack, again did the Daters, the next one(10Days I hope) will not have the daters and will do a side by side. 
Baffles and spacers all lined up 
5 baffles, .25" spacer, baffle, .375" spacer, baffle, .5 spacer, baffle, .5 spacer, baffle, 2.25+ or - blast chamber |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 8:00:44 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By blwngazkit:
How do those cans sound to you? 6" vs 8" and compared to any others you may have? With supers in 300blk Its hard to tell the difference. Subs however the 8" is much quieter, once you get past the first round pop. I do not have a factory can to compare with, waiting on my Mystik........ it was delayed about 2 months so I am hoping December. However, I am extremely pleased with the Subs and was pleasantly impressed with the 6" can on 556 |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 8:03:21 PM EDT
[#4]
Was it hearing safe shooting subs? Were you wearing hearing protection in the video? Would you say it sounds like a pneumatic nail gun sound wise?
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
With supers in 300blk Its hard to tell the difference. Subs however the 8" is much quieter, once you get past the first round pop. I do not have a factory can to compare with, waiting on my Mystik........ it was delayed about 2 months so I am hoping December. However, I am extremely pleased with the Subs and was pleasantly impressed with the 6" can on 556 Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
How do those cans sound to you? 6" vs 8" and compared to any others you may have? With supers in 300blk Its hard to tell the difference. Subs however the 8" is much quieter, once you get past the first round pop. I do not have a factory can to compare with, waiting on my Mystik........ it was delayed about 2 months so I am hoping December. However, I am extremely pleased with the Subs and was pleasantly impressed with the 6" can on 556 |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 8:14:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: esstac-]
[#5]
Some porn
.JPG)
The 249g 300BLK used for testing. They are Accurate Molds tweaked version of the 248G NOE mold and powder coated. .JPG)
I also stripped the 6" tube of powder coat, it was annoying me and its getting painted in a few days. The splotchy areas on the tube is powder coat I did not get off yet. You can see on the 6" tube some goldening(making words up ) from the heat the can took on saturday night when I got the sucker smoking.
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Posted: 11/5/2014 8:21:26 PM EDT
[#6]
Called SDTA today and was told they will have center marked steel thread protectors soon.
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Posted: 11/5/2014 8:25:21 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
Was it hearing safe shooting subs? Were you wearing hearing protection in the video? Would you say it sounds like a pneumatic nail gun sound wise? All three of us in the video are not wearing hearing protection and it is comfortable. Even in my uninsulated metal pole barn side bay (14'X48') it is much louder due to the echo/metal sides but still no hearing protection, I have a rubber filled box I shot into. I just ran some Blazer .22 through the 6" can out of a 16" AR(ciener conversion) and it was quite a bit louder but still comfortable(30cal can on supersonic .22) Ran some Augila subsonics through it and was quieter then one of my employees pellet gun, unfortunately for me they do not cycle my conversion reliably or I would still be down shooting it 
I would say its no louder then a nail gun, having used one ALLOT in the past, and a shorter impulse then a nail gun. |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 8:37:33 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mygreenkaw:
Called SDTA today and was told they will have center marked steel thread protectors soon. 
Now they need to get them Griffin Adapters in steel, I'm down for 5 of em
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Posted: 11/5/2014 8:53:14 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-: All three of us in the video are not wearing hearing protection and it is comfortable. Even in my uninsulated metal pole barn side bay (14'X48') it is much louder due to the echo/metal sides but still no hearing protection, I have a rubber filled box I shot into. I just ran some Blazer .22 through the 6" can out of a 16" AR(ciener conversion) and it was quite a bit louder but still comfortable(30cal can on supersonic .22) Ran some Augila subsonics through it and was quieter then one of my employees pellet gun, unfortunately for me they do not cycle my conversion reliably or I would still be down shooting it I would say its no louder then a nail gun, having used one ALLOT in the past, and a shorter impulse then a nail gun. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-: Originally Posted By cpy911: Was it hearing safe shooting subs? Were you wearing hearing protection in the video? Would you say it sounds like a pneumatic nail gun sound wise? All three of us in the video are not wearing hearing protection and it is comfortable. Even in my uninsulated metal pole barn side bay (14'X48') it is much louder due to the echo/metal sides but still no hearing protection, I have a rubber filled box I shot into. I just ran some Blazer .22 through the 6" can out of a 16" AR(ciener conversion) and it was quite a bit louder but still comfortable(30cal can on supersonic .22) Ran some Augila subsonics through it and was quieter then one of my employees pellet gun, unfortunately for me they do not cycle my conversion reliably or I would still be down shooting it I would say its no louder then a nail gun, having used one ALLOT in the past, and a shorter impulse then a nail gun. Let me ask you a subjective question: Having fired both lengths, which length would you choose for multi-role usage between .223 & 300blk(super & sub) usage? The 6" or the 8" ?
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OR, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 9:00:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cpy911]
[#10]
Your efforts are awesome!
Are you running Aluminum end caps or the new steel ones? I am thinking of building a subsonic only version almost identical to yours. No brake and more like a 1-1.5" blast chamber to reduce FRP and no spacers, just as many M baffle freeze plugs stacked together that I can fit in there. .... Will use an Al D cell tube. I think your design is perfect for subs and supers. But it is a compromise. Can't wait to hear .223. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
All three of us in the video are not wearing hearing protection and it is comfortable. Even in my uninsulated metal pole barn side bay (14'X48') it is much louder due to the echo/metal sides but still no hearing protection, I have a rubber filled box I shot into. I just ran some Blazer .22 through the 6" can out of a 16" AR(ciener conversion) and it was quite a bit louder but still comfortable(30cal can on supersonic .22) Ran some Augila subsonics through it and was quieter then one of my employees pellet gun, unfortunately for me they do not cycle my conversion reliably or I would still be down shooting it
I would say its no louder then a nail gun, having used one ALLOT in the past, and a shorter impulse then a nail gun. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
Was it hearing safe shooting subs? Were you wearing hearing protection in the video? Would you say it sounds like a pneumatic nail gun sound wise? All three of us in the video are not wearing hearing protection and it is comfortable. Even in my uninsulated metal pole barn side bay (14'X48') it is much louder due to the echo/metal sides but still no hearing protection, I have a rubber filled box I shot into. I just ran some Blazer .22 through the 6" can out of a 16" AR(ciener conversion) and it was quite a bit louder but still comfortable(30cal can on supersonic .22) Ran some Augila subsonics through it and was quieter then one of my employees pellet gun, unfortunately for me they do not cycle my conversion reliably or I would still be down shooting it
I would say its no louder then a nail gun, having used one ALLOT in the past, and a shorter impulse then a nail gun. W |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 9:04:19 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
Some porn
http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/6n8%20(2).JPG The 249g 300BLK used for testing. They are Accurate Molds tweaked version of the 248G NOE mold and powder coated. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/6n8%20(1).JPG I also stripped the 6" tube of powder coat, it was annoying me and its getting painted in a few days. The splotchy areas on the tube is powder coat I did not get off yet. You can see on the 6" tube some goldening(making words up ) from the heat the can took on saturday night when I got the sucker smoking.which tube is that on the bottom? i haven't ordered stuff yet b/c i wanted to make sure the SDT tube is threaded on the inside on both sides instead of being threaded on the outside on one end |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 9:06:19 PM EDT
[#12]
Both are SDTac tubes, he stripped the powder coat off the 6"
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Posted: 11/5/2014 9:13:54 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By blwngazkit:
Let me ask you a subjective question: Having fired both lengths, which length would you choose for multi-role usage between .223 & 300blk(super & sub) usage? The 6" or the 8" ? Well first off, two of the 3 8" cans I am doing will be living on the 2 10.5" 300BLK's, one of the 6" will live on the 11.5" 556(as soon as I buy the barrel that is) The other 6", 8" and Harrison will be floaters between my other rifles. The 6" is nice on the 10.5", lighter and 2-3/8" shorter, and I will probably be shooting more subs then supers(cheaper for me to make) so the 8" will serve better, however I would not complain if all I had was the 6". I am specifically doing the 6" cans for 556 and the ability to run on the 300 as needed. So for multi-role where suppression is not the first factor I would do 6", if you want every bit of suppression when you run subs I would definitely go 8". Or in True arfcom fashion do both 
I hope that answers your ? the 8" does weigh quite a bit more then the 6" and the length is not a killer for me, but I think once these tubes get turned down and shave the weight off the 8" will be pretty equal to factory stuff. |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 9:26:23 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
Your efforts are awesome! Are you running Aluminum end caps or the new steel ones? I am thinking of building a subsonic only version almost identical to yours. No brake and more like a 1-1.5" blast chamber to reduce FRP and no spacers, just as many M baffle freeze plugs stacked together. .... Will use an Al D cell tube. I think your design is perfect for subs and supers. Can't wait to hear .223. W Both ends are aluminum, however as soon as SDtac releases a steel griffen mount I am all over it. I worry I will cross thread the aluminum. I am not to concerned with the aluminum end cap, I would like to see less sticking out though(.5" now) to something like .1-.2 with some wrench flats or holes for a spanner. I was happy that the aluminum griffin mount stood the test, granted it is a 16" barrel and not a shorty. I am doing the brakes solely for the Multitasker nature of them, since a 556 brake has the same mounting threads as a 308 brake. Originally I was going direct thread for the 300blks. And if I was only doing subs I think nothing but baffles would be best forsure. I do have a couple 556 with 6" can videos posted on the previous page I think, but I have nothing to compare it to in the video like I did with the 300's. If I can get out this weekend or next I will do 2 16" ARs(one with and one without can) I did not even think of bringing another for the videos as I was focusing on the 300's and just wanted to abuse it with the 556 and did not realize my mistake until go time 
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OR, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 9:43:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cpy911]
[#15]
Quote HistoryBoth ends are aluminum, however as soon as SDtac releases a steel griffen mount I am all over it. I worry I will cross thread the aluminum. I am not to concerned with the aluminum end cap, I would like to see less sticking out though(.5" now) to something like .1-.2 with some wrench flats or holes for a spanner. I was happy that the aluminum griffin mount stood the test, granted it is a 16" barrel and not a shorty.
If you ever end up with a lathe, you can turn the end cap down! Or a buddy with a lathe and some beer works too! I am doing the brakes solely for the Multitasker nature of them, since a 556 brake has the same mounting threads as a 308 brake. Originally I was going direct thread for the 300blks. And if I was only doing subs I think nothing but baffles would be best forsure. Yes, based on my understanding, the M-baffle really does not perform well with subsonic, so more baffles are needed to help out with peformance (however I can't confirm this). I am hoping to stuff 11 m-baffles aka formed freeze plugs down the tube. However for supers, the spacing and fewer baffles actually are an improvement. You are able to shoot supers with your config (bigger blast chamber) and you get what you get for subs, which includes some first round pop. Still an awesome can. I do have a couple 556 with 6" can videos posted on the previous page I think, but I have nothing to compare it to in the video like I did with the 300's. If I can get out this weekend or next I will do 2 16" ARs(one with and one without can) I did not even think of bringing another for the videos as I was focusing on the 300's and just wanted to abuse it with the 556 and did not realize my mistake until go time. Could not find your 5.56 with 6" video....help! This thread is total awesomeness!!!!! |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 9:58:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: esstac-]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
This thread is total awesomeness!!!!!
On my 8" I could get 3 more baffles easily if I remove the spacers and still have the blast chamber in place. I had only one of the videos linked...... And they would not have been filmed in the Dark if some asshat had not decided to guy buy yet another Glock that day
Supa shity potato cams 77g noslers (these are loaded to Ramshots 556 preasures, 24g TAC, so on the hot side) 
55g FMJ, these were not my reloads and have been in this mag since Jesus was in diapers, felt like a .22......
69g noslers, don't listen to the chimp in the video. Follow the red glow(my ear muffs lol) (These are loaded to most accurate, 23.6g TAC, so quite a bit less preasure then the above 77g)
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Posted: 11/5/2014 10:21:30 PM EDT
[#17]
Think the 8" on 5.56 is hearing safe?
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OR, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 10:23:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cpy911]
[#18]
Is this with a 5.56 bore size or the .308 bore size?
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
On my 8" I could get 3 more baffles easily if I remove the spacers and still have the blast chamber in place. I had only one of the videos linked...... And they would not have been filmed in the Dark if some asshat had not decided to guy buy yet another Glock that day
Supa shity potato cams Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
This thread is total awesomeness!!!!!
On my 8" I could get 3 more baffles easily if I remove the spacers and still have the blast chamber in place. I had only one of the videos linked...... And they would not have been filmed in the Dark if some asshat had not decided to guy buy yet another Glock that day
Supa shity potato cams |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 10:36:42 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
On my 8" I could get 3 more baffles easily if I remove the spacers and still have the blast chamber in place. I had only one of the videos linked...... And they would not have been filmed in the Dark if some asshat had not decided to guy buy yet another Glock that day
Supa shity potato cams 77g noslers (these are loaded to Ramshots 556 preasures, 24g TAC, so on the hot side)  http://youtu.be/V8Y1cRIHW9o
55g FMJ, these were not my reloads and have been in this mag since Jesus was in diapers, felt like a .22...... http://youtu.be/-GENySUbFtA
69g noslers, don't listen to the chimp in the video. Follow the red glow(my ear muffs lol) (These are loaded to most accurate, 23.6g TAC, so quite a bit less preasure then the above 77g) http://youtu.be/hukE-YKtGSQ
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
This thread is total awesomeness!!!!!
On my 8" I could get 3 more baffles easily if I remove the spacers and still have the blast chamber in place. I had only one of the videos linked...... And they would not have been filmed in the Dark if some asshat had not decided to guy buy yet another Glock that day
Supa shity potato cams 77g noslers (these are loaded to Ramshots 556 preasures, 24g TAC, so on the hot side) http://youtu.be/V8Y1cRIHW9o
55g FMJ, these were not my reloads and have been in this mag since Jesus was in diapers, felt like a .22...... http://youtu.be/-GENySUbFtA
69g noslers, don't listen to the chimp in the video. Follow the red glow(my ear muffs lol) (These are loaded to most accurate, 23.6g TAC, so quite a bit less preasure then the above 77g) http://youtu.be/hukE-YKtGSQ
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Posted: 11/5/2014 10:37:09 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
Is this with a 5.56 bore size or the .308 bore size? 556 through .308 bore(.370") No idea if hearing safe, wore a head set while shooting it, sounded like normal .22LR to me, but I imagine with the sonic crack not super hearing safe. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 12:59:53 AM EDT
[#21]
Awesome, thanks for update. I was going to do the spacers like you did by making them like a slip fitting, but I ended up having 1.35" Ti spacers made. Cost some more cash and 2 weeks.
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Posted: 11/6/2014 1:44:55 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Awesome, thanks for update. I was going to do the spacers like you did by making them like a slip fitting, but I ended up having 1.35" Ti spacers made. Cost some more cash and 2 weeks. Leftover piece from a 4.5" length that took me about 10minutes to reduce from 1.375 to 1.348 with a belt sander 
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Posted: 11/6/2014 3:19:52 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryOriginally Posted By Miles_Urbanus: Originally Posted By coug91: Can someone post a link to apogee? All I can find is electronics and hair care products. Thanks! http://apogeeproducts.com/ Originally Posted By ronnl001: The apogee titanium tube is still a pretty beefy 13oz by my calculations. There's quite a bit of fat to trim, but that puts your tube cost at $200, which is more than I'd like to be in for a form 1. TITANIUM TUBE (MODEL TIT) $110.00 Thank you. |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 9:21:48 AM EDT
[#24]
I think the titanium could be turned down to around 7-8oz without any issue on pressure (based on back of napkin math waiting only plane to take off). Assuming that's the case, there is some real potential to make a can that could seriously compete with a harvester or similar light use can. The thought of making an even shorter one (ala the 5-6" blackout can) is even more exciting. I already have a 12oz factory ti 308 qd can (made by a local c2 but very similar to a yhm ult), and the thought of cranking that down even more for lighter uses is VERY appealing to me.
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Posted: 11/6/2014 9:25:02 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ronnl001:
I think the titanium could be turned down to around 7-8oz without any issue on pressure (based on back of napkin math waiting only plane to take off). Assuming that's the case, there is some real potential to make a can that could seriously compete with a harvester or similar light use can. The thought of making an even shorter one (ala the 5-6" blackout can) is even more exciting. I already have a 12oz factory ti 308 qd can (made by a local c2 but very similar to a yhm ult), and the thought of cranking that down even more for lighter uses is VERY appealing to me. The OP has already stated the 8.375" is MUCH better with subsonics, why would you want a 5-6" can for 300? |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 10:19:06 AM EDT
[Last Edit: c5hardtop]
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
The OP has already stated the 8.375" is MUCH better with subsonics, why would you want a 5-6" can for 300? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By ronnl001:
I think the titanium could be turned down to around 7-8oz without any issue on pressure (based on back of napkin math waiting only plane to take off). Assuming that's the case, there is some real potential to make a can that could seriously compete with a harvester or similar light use can. The thought of making an even shorter one (ala the 5-6" blackout can) is even more exciting. I already have a 12oz factory ti 308 qd can (made by a local c2 but very similar to a yhm ult), and the thought of cranking that down even more for lighter uses is VERY appealing to me. The OP has already stated the 8.375" is MUCH better with subsonics, why would you want a 5-6" can for 300? I'm building a 5" can for my 300blk so I will add my input as to why I choose that. My reasoning is the subsonic less gasses should not require as big of a can. https://www.silencerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?926-LINKS-TO-RESULTS-THREADS If you look at the 300blk testing the 9mm can (smaller and probably with a .420 or so oversized bore performed the same as a near class leading 308 can, a 9.5" Monster (AAC Cyclone that probably has a bore in the .370 range). OP's results are very interesting but not necessarily a tell all or a clear indication for every application. I would not have expected he would NOT have been able to tell a difference, that is one of the draw backs of Form 1s, when you buy a commercial can you kind of know what you are getting. I expected he would have been able to tell a difference with supersonics. I will say that the tight stack and vents that the OP used are what are generally considered ideal for subsonic rounds, I which is why I would have expected better performance. The one comment I will make is related to the end caps used because the endcap is sold, and the adapter is just a mount to the rear of the muzzle device, it is effectively a 5" can because of that wasted space, the freeze plugs take up space, the spacers are thick, the muzzle device takes up space. I expect my 5" can to have more internal volume than his 6". When mine is ready to run I will certainly provide an update. I am clipping my baffles. Also I went with a 9" barrel so there will complete powder burn. |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 10:20:04 AM EDT
[#27]
IN!
did I see something about an eFile Form-1 earlier in the thread? I work nights and my feeble mind is about done for the day... |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 10:34:33 AM EDT
[#28]
The OP will be clipping baffles and trying different baffle setups. He just needs more stamps to come through, so we can do a side by side 8" comparison between different internal layouts. It would also be interesting to see what a shorter blast baffle would do. Should decrease first round pop and improve subsonic performance.
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Posted: 11/6/2014 12:27:04 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheArizonaCowboy:
Thanks for posting this! It really helps Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheArizonaCowboy:
Originally Posted By esstac-:
2 quick videos forming the 45 and 60deg cones using a Harbor Freight 20ton press and a 7/8" socket. Original hole was drilled using the SDtac centering tool and a 1/8" drill bit, video got cut off at the end but the hold ends up at .2" after forming http://youtu.be/F0HNdxxfQMk
Forming the 60deg after the 45deg. Hole size started at .2" and ended at .365, a touch more in the press and it could have been final hole size of .370 for 30 cal http://youtu.be/2Cuw1r2znacThanks for posting this! It really helps What's the depth of the cone that you're getting? I'm using a 1/2" ball bearing in a socket into a .250" hole and pressing half way. I'm then using a 60 degree cone (1.5" at the base) to form to .365. The cone depth is about .300". Are you getting deeper cones with your technique? |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 1:42:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mizzarley]
[#30]
So gents, there is a lot going on in this thread. What tube would you all recommend for a 7.5 inch 5.56 AR. I'm not worried about baffle erosion, or weight. I just don't want it to detonate. Definitely going with one of the 8 inch tubes, just not sure which one would be strongest. Help me Obi Wan.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 2:27:59 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
The OP will be clipping baffles and trying different baffle setups. He just needs more stamps to come through, so we can do a side by side 8" comparison between different internal layouts. It would also be interesting to see what a shorter blast baffle would do. Should decrease first round pop and improve subsonic performance. How is he going to line up all the clipped baffles? My understanding is the clip needs to be in line with the other clips |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 2:34:31 PM EDT
[#32]
The 8.375" tube in carbon or SS is more than thick enough. I would suggest using steel end caps.
The form1 guys on the other forum are using .065" thick steel tubes but are using a finer (28 TPI thread pitch) threading that does not go as deep and can use a thinner tube. If you are using the D cell maglite, you need all the meat at the end cap areas as the thread depth is like .050+". With the finer thread pitches, it is less than .030" So that is one reason why the tubes are thick, due to the thread pitches. This is more than enough to hold the pressure. I think the wall thickness is like .100" on the tubes, so people are turning them down in the non threaded portion to .065" and even a little less to save weight. I plan on doing a D size Aluminum version for subsonic only. At .1" thick the Al will still be pretty light but plenty strong for subsonic pressures, way over built. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mizzarley:
So gents, there is a lot going on in this thread. What tube would you all recommend for a 7.5 inch 5.56 AR. I'm not worried about baffle erosion, or weight. I just don't want it to detonate. Definitely going with one of the 8 inch tubes, just not sure which one would be strongest. Help me Obi Wan. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 2:45:45 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
The 8.375" tube in carbon or SS is more than thick enough. I would suggest using steel end caps. The form1 guys on the other forum are using .065" thick steel tubes but are using a finer (28 TPI thread pitch) threading that does not go as deep and can use a thinner tube. If you are using the D cell maglite, you need all the meat at the end cap areas as the thread depth is like .050+". With the finer thread pitches, it is less than .030" So that is one reason why the tubes are thick, due to the thread pitches. This is more than enough to hold the pressure. I think the wall thickness is like .100" on the tubes, so people are turning them down in the non threaded portion to .065" and even a little less to save weight. I plan on doing a D size Aluminum version for subsonic only. At .1" thick the Al will still be pretty light but plenty strong for subsonic pressures, way over built. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
The 8.375" tube in carbon or SS is more than thick enough. I would suggest using steel end caps. The form1 guys on the other forum are using .065" thick steel tubes but are using a finer (28 TPI thread pitch) threading that does not go as deep and can use a thinner tube. If you are using the D cell maglite, you need all the meat at the end cap areas as the thread depth is like .050+". With the finer thread pitches, it is less than .030" So that is one reason why the tubes are thick, due to the thread pitches. This is more than enough to hold the pressure. I think the wall thickness is like .100" on the tubes, so people are turning them down in the non threaded portion to .065" and even a little less to save weight. I plan on doing a D size Aluminum version for subsonic only. At .1" thick the Al will still be pretty light but plenty strong for subsonic pressures, way over built. Originally Posted By mizzarley:
So gents, there is a lot going on in this thread. What tube would you all recommend for a 7.5 inch 5.56 AR. I'm not worried about baffle erosion, or weight. I just don't want it to detonate. Definitely going with one of the 8 inch tubes, just not sure which one would be strongest. Help me Obi Wan. Thanks! |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 3:07:57 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
SNIP The form1 guys on the other forum are using .065" thick steel tubes but are using a finer (28 TPI thread pitch) threading that does not go as deep and can use a thinner tube. SNIP Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
SNIP The form1 guys on the other forum are using .065" thick steel tubes but are using a finer (28 TPI thread pitch) threading that does not go as deep and can use a thinner tube. SNIP Originally Posted By mizzarley:
So gents, there is a lot going on in this thread. What tube would you all recommend for a 7.5 inch 5.56 AR. I'm not worried about baffle erosion, or weight. I just don't want it to detonate. Definitely going with one of the 8 inch tubes, just not sure which one would be strongest. Help me Obi Wan. Where are they getting those at? Thanks |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 3:11:26 PM EDT
[#35]
They are buying the tubes from onlinemetals.com or other places, just raw tubes with no threads and then single point threading them on lathes.
Most of us here don't have lathes, so stuck with Maglite stuff that is repurposed for our Form 1s. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By millsusaf:
Where are they getting those at? Thanks Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By millsusaf:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
SNIP The form1 guys on the other forum are using .065" thick steel tubes but are using a finer (28 TPI thread pitch) threading that does not go as deep and can use a thinner tube. SNIP Originally Posted By mizzarley:
So gents, there is a lot going on in this thread. What tube would you all recommend for a 7.5 inch 5.56 AR. I'm not worried about baffle erosion, or weight. I just don't want it to detonate. Definitely going with one of the 8 inch tubes, just not sure which one would be strongest. Help me Obi Wan. Where are they getting those at? Thanks |
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USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 4:47:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: COOKBOOK]
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
SNIP The form1 guys on the other forum are using .065" thick steel tubes but are using a finer (28 TPI thread pitch) threading that does not go as deep and can use a thinner tube. SNIP Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
SNIP The form1 guys on the other forum are using .065" thick steel tubes but are using a finer (28 TPI thread pitch) threading that does not go as deep and can use a thinner tube. SNIP Is it legal to have someone else thread your tube and fabricate end caps if one of the end caps is sealed (no exit hole)? Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By Strizzo:
SD tactical says that the Dorman freeze plugs are no longer the correct size for their centering tool, and they say they have a new made in usa supplier. Is there somewhere the correct freeze plugs can be found that doesn't charge $2.40 a piece? i've been saving my pennies for a manufactured suppressor but now i might just do a form 1 for less money and less waiting. Sealed Power SEP 381-3179 for D tube 1.350 Sealed Power SEP 381-3016 for C tube 1.000 Sealed Power SEP 381-3080 for 1.375 Custom D tube $.69 at Napa Which is the "Custom D tube", the solid ones SDTA sells? Also, does anyone know where you can buy the sealed power plugs online? Is anyone willing to order a bunch of them and then reship? I'd like to get 12 of each (minus the 3016). |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 4:48:37 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
The OP has already stated the 8.375" is MUCH better with subsonics, why would you want a 5-6" can for 300? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By ronnl001: I think the titanium could be turned down to around 7-8oz without any issue on pressure (based on back of napkin math waiting only plane to take off). Assuming that's the case, there is some real potential to make a can that could seriously compete with a harvester or similar light use can. The thought of making an even shorter one (ala the 5-6" blackout can) is even more exciting. I already have a 12oz factory ti 308 qd can (made by a local c2 but very similar to a yhm ult), and the thought of cranking that down even more for lighter uses is VERY appealing to me. The OP has already stated the 8.375" is MUCH better with subsonics, why would you want a 5-6" can for 300? Weight. If suppressors mounted @ the CG of a rifle, there wouldn't be much of a problem. |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 4:52:29 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher:
Weight. If suppressors mounted @ the CG of a rifle, there wouldn't be much of a problem. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By ronnl001: I think the titanium could be turned down to around 7-8oz without any issue on pressure (based on back of napkin math waiting only plane to take off). Assuming that's the case, there is some real potential to make a can that could seriously compete with a harvester or similar light use can. The thought of making an even shorter one (ala the 5-6" blackout can) is even more exciting. I already have a 12oz factory ti 308 qd can (made by a local c2 but very similar to a yhm ult), and the thought of cranking that down even more for lighter uses is VERY appealing to me. The OP has already stated the 8.375" is MUCH better with subsonics, why would you want a 5-6" can for 300? Weight. If suppressors mounted @ the CG of a rifle, there wouldn't be much of a problem. If you are going for weight, you can turn down that 8.375" tube much more if you are staying with subsonic ammo. You can get that 8" tube to around 9oz. The point of these suppressor builds is to be cheap, quick, easy, and universally compatible. When you start ordering a bunch of customized made to order parts it gets expensive and you've gone away from the premise of this thread. Plus it can technically be illegal. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 5:13:39 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By COOKBOOK:
Is it legal to have someone else thread your tube and fabricate end caps if one of the end caps is sealed (no exit hole)? Which is the "Custom D tube", the solid ones SDTA sells? Also, does anyone know where you can buy the sealed power plugs online? Is anyone willing to order a bunch of them and then reship? I'd like to get 12 of each (minus the 3016). Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By COOKBOOK:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
SNIP The form1 guys on the other forum are using .065" thick steel tubes but are using a finer (28 TPI thread pitch) threading that does not go as deep and can use a thinner tube. SNIP Is it legal to have someone else thread your tube and fabricate end caps if one of the end caps is sealed (no exit hole)? Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By Strizzo:
SD tactical says that the Dorman freeze plugs are no longer the correct size for their centering tool, and they say they have a new made in usa supplier. Is there somewhere the correct freeze plugs can be found that doesn't charge $2.40 a piece? i've been saving my pennies for a manufactured suppressor but now i might just do a form 1 for less money and less waiting. Sealed Power SEP 381-3179 for D tube 1.350 Sealed Power SEP 381-3016 for C tube 1.000 Sealed Power SEP 381-3080 for 1.375 Custom D tube $.69 at Napa Which is the "Custom D tube", the solid ones SDTA sells? Also, does anyone know where you can buy the sealed power plugs online? Is anyone willing to order a bunch of them and then reship? I'd like to get 12 of each (minus the 3016). The 381-3179 is 1.350 it fits the Maglite, SD Tac, Apogee. You can buy that part online from Summit Racing, or many other venders. The 381-3080 parts I got were labeled PC80 1 3/8" however they were actually 1.39 not 1.375, they did not fit. There are a lot of 1.375 options. |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 5:40:39 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
The 381-3179 is 1.350 it fits the Maglite, SD Tac, Apogee. You can buy that part online from Summit Racing, or many other venders. Make sure when you order and this is to everyone not who I quoted, MAKE SURE whoever it is ordered through does not substitute Doorman plugs, you want the Federal Mogul ones for the D-cell tubes. Someone I know who ordered was substituted the doormans even though they were specific on the part...... 
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Posted: 11/6/2014 5:49:24 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pdm:
What's the depth of the cone that you're getting? I'm using a 1/2" ball bearing in a socket into a .250" hole and pressing half way. I'm then using a 60 degree cone (1.5" at the base) to form to .365. The cone depth is about .300". Are you getting deeper cones with your technique? You are close. I just measured several and was surprised how close they all are. .360-.370", pic shows where I measured. Try doing your same setup but with a start hole 1/8", it should let you form the cone a bit further before your hole size opens to your final size. 
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Posted: 11/6/2014 5:52:56 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By vanquished:
How is he going to line up all the clipped baffles? My understanding is the clip needs to be in line with the other clips Its super easy to line baffles up as you drop them into place, and if needed I have used a USGI cleaning rod section to spin them. And your understanding about them being in line is the same as mine. |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 5:59:57 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By COOKBOOK:
Also, does anyone know where you can buy the sealed power plugs online? Is anyone willing to order a bunch of them and then reship? I'd like to get 12 of each (minus the 3016).[/span] It is getting hard to find them online, wonder why? I found its easier to just get them at the local parts store, they will probably not have them in stock but they can order them in. |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 6:54:08 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
You are close. I just measured several and was surprised how close they all are. .360-.370", pic shows where I measured. Try doing your same setup but with a start hole 1/8", it should let you form the cone a bit further before your hole size opens to your final size. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/FP%20depth.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By pdm:
What's the depth of the cone that you're getting? I'm using a 1/2" ball bearing in a socket into a .250" hole and pressing half way. I'm then using a 60 degree cone (1.5" at the base) to form to .365. The cone depth is about .300". Are you getting deeper cones with your technique? You are close. I just measured several and was surprised how close they all are. .360-.370", pic shows where I measured. Try doing your same setup but with a start hole 1/8", it should let you form the cone a bit further before your hole size opens to your final size. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/FP%20depth.JPG Bad mouse, don't make me beat you again! 
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Posted: 11/6/2014 7:52:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: esstac-]
[#45]
New video, 6 verse the 8, You may notice a bit less First round pop on the 8", it had 4 rounds fired through it about 5 minutes prior, meaning it had some inert gas remaining in it and less O2.
I am about 25' away and just ahead of the shooters.
Lee 230g Cast(233g as cast for me) The green round is the Accurate Mold 249g from the previous video(its a dummy round loaded a bit long) 
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Posted: 11/6/2014 8:03:36 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
The OP has already stated the 8.375" is MUCH better with subsonics, why would you want a 5-6" can for 300? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By ronnl001:
I think the titanium could be turned down to around 7-8oz without any issue on pressure (based on back of napkin math waiting only plane to take off). Assuming that's the case, there is some real potential to make a can that could seriously compete with a harvester or similar light use can. The thought of making an even shorter one (ala the 5-6" blackout can) is even more exciting. I already have a 12oz factory ti 308 qd can (made by a local c2 but very similar to a yhm ult), and the thought of cranking that down even more for lighter uses is VERY appealing to me. The OP has already stated the 8.375" is MUCH better with subsonics, why would you want a 5-6" can for 300? Because there is more than just suppression being factored into the decision. Same reason the aac mini4 sells when the m42k is a far quieter can |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 8:41:49 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mygreenkaw:
Bad mouse, don't make me beat you again!
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mygreenkaw:
Originally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By pdm:
What's the depth of the cone that you're getting? I'm using a 1/2" ball bearing in a socket into a .250" hole and pressing half way. I'm then using a 60 degree cone (1.5" at the base) to form to .365. The cone depth is about .300". Are you getting deeper cones with your technique? You are close. I just measured several and was surprised how close they all are. .360-.370", pic shows where I measured. Try doing your same setup but with a start hole 1/8", it should let you form the cone a bit further before your hole size opens to your final size. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/FP%20depth.JPG Bad mouse, don't make me beat you again!
I read your post multiple times, came back an hour later and re read it several more times, thinking to myself WTF is this guy snorting??? can I have some btw? Then the lightbulb moment, and the feeling of "oh, boy I'm dumb" This is my second mouse of the same model, years of looking at it I never notice the "paint" that makes it look all beat up
I may be slow, but in the end I laugh last. |
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USA
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Posted: 11/6/2014 8:50:49 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mygreenkaw:
Bad mouse, don't make me beat you again!
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mygreenkaw:
Originally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By pdm:
What's the depth of the cone that you're getting? I'm using a 1/2" ball bearing in a socket into a .250" hole and pressing half way. I'm then using a 60 degree cone (1.5" at the base) to form to .365. The cone depth is about .300". Are you getting deeper cones with your technique? You are close. I just measured several and was surprised how close they all are. .360-.370", pic shows where I measured. Try doing your same setup but with a start hole 1/8", it should let you form the cone a bit further before your hole size opens to your final size. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/FP%20depth.JPG Bad mouse, don't make me beat you again!
That mouse is actually ancient. I had one of those in 2005. I'm surprised anyone is still using that. |
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Posted: 11/6/2014 10:50:38 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-: New video, 6 verse the 8, You may notice a bit less First round pop on the 8", it had 4 rounds fired through it about 5 minutes prior, meaning it had some inert gas remaining in it and less O2. I am about 25' away and just ahead of the shooters. http://youtu.be/UtevPIMKdVULee 230g Cast(233g as cast for me) The green round is the Accurate Mold 249g from the previous video(its a dummy round loaded a bit long) http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/Lee%20233g%20cast%20subs.JPG |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 11/7/2014 12:16:35 AM EDT
[#50]
esstac,
What did you do for engraving? Thanks. Epic thread! |
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