I had several mini-14's and 30's over the years. I still have a few around. The newer ones are more accurate and not affected by heat  with the heavier barrels. All of mine can hit what they are supposed to and never not work when needed. I only use factory mags. If you are patient and wait for deal they are cheaper. If you do travel, an mini is not as "Threatening" and allow in those "Leftist States" I mostly use the 5 round mags for range work and 20rd for everything else. I'm also a collector so it was another reason I have them.

Thanks, that’s the same info I got from the Ruger link.

OK, try this Info

@Willz

If you want a fun, nostalgic toy that can also serve a lot of other roles OK in a pinch, go for it.
Not every gun has to be the optimal tool for a specific niche.
Ruger magazines only.

Can’t play A Team without a Mini folder…….

I bought the   5889 model like a year and a half ago. The wood stock looks great but rubber butt is just too clingy. Replaced with original wood style stock.  The mini has something special about it. Its handy with classic style. I bought it to suppress and cannot tell you accuracy as i have not done any reloading for 223 in years. I can tell you that once you buy the gas port kit and start playing with those you create a very soft shooting rifle that is a pleasure to shoot.

Also there is no reason to use 30 round magazines with it. It looks stupid with a magazine that big. 20 rounders are the way.

Will an old wood stock fit a new tactical model ?

.

Probably.  With the exception of the early 180 series Mini-14 stock, the wooden stocks should work for all later series of Mini-14.

You may need to buy a "Stock Reinforcement" liner, its' screws and washers, and a fore end "Heat Shield if the wooden Stock does not come with them.

The "Stock Reinforcement" liner is different between the Mini-14 and the Mini-30 but looks almost identical.   If the stock was originally for a Mii-30, you will need to change that out.

Two general variants of wooden stocks for your Mini:  Curved butt plate and flat butt plate.  

Earlier curved (plastic) butt plate is, IIRC, shorter Length of Pull (LOP). Replacement metal butt plate available from Numrich and is suggested.  Curved Blued Metal Butt Plate  Curved Stainless Steel Butt Plate

Later flat (rubber) butt plate stock is slightly longer LOP.

Be advised that the wooden stocks are often of a "looser" fit than most syn stocks, but some careful internal shimming with glued-on thin sheet plastic will fix this.

Suggest you look here for some ideas about what's available:  ASI Stock and Handguard Page  

Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 wooden stocks are usually made of unspecified "American Hardwood" and are decent wooden stocks.  If it is desired to re-finish/stain the stock, suggest doing the wooden handguard (if used) at same time, and also strongly suggest removing all attached components from the stock, and sealing every square inch of the wooden handguard/stock's surface, both inside and out.

Disclaimer: No financial interest.

I want one, but never found a good deal on one.  I really like the stainless ones.

Interesting Youtube vid from Luckygunner: Part 1 of 2

I think the vid is reasonably fair, except about Bill Sr's proposed mag capacity-based ban.  If that proposal had been successful, we would likely have had far more choices of imported firearms available afterwards.  Ultimately, the Anti-Gunners successfully sought to ban most foreign imports, as well as enact a "High-Cap" mag ban as well.

I believe Bill Ruger was both self-serving as regards competition for the Mini-14, and entirely naive about the ultimate goals of the Antis.  Not my intent to defend his actions, just my opinion.  Besides, he's long dead, and Ruger family has been gone from the management of the company for years.  Modern Ruger management currently offers AR clones and all sorts of "HI-Cap" magazines.

Part 2 of the vid is forthcoming.

I watched that last night

I’m still on the fence about buying one

[shrug]

It's a considerable sum of money to spend on a platform (Rifle/mags, etc.) if one is lukewarm about it.

Maybe Part 2 will tip the scale one way or another.

You want one because they’re cool.
They  work very well for me. Plenty accurate enough and reliable as can be. I have one aftermarket Promag that is reliable, the rest of my magazines are Ruger, they aren’t cheap but will last forever. I could sell mine today for more than I paid. Walnut stock is .223/5.56 the other is .300

I would NOT buy a Mini-14/Mini-30 because I believed the Anti-gunners would leave them alone, as done in the past.

The ANTIS are NOT stupid, and leaving Minis alone is NOT in their Long-Term Plan. Formerly "Legal" Minis will soon be declared "illegal" in some places.  Count on it.

Your opinion may vary, but after decades-long viewing and fighting local folks on the firearms scene, it's my opinion that the Antis want to eliminate all semi-auto firearms as a preliminary REPEAT Preliminary measure/stage to licensing all firearms such as done in England, Canada, and other places.

Such Gov't-issued Licenses will be fairly easy to obtain at first, but harder to obtain as time goes on.

IMHO, Ultimate goal of the Antis is to eliminate personal firearms ownership--except for police and military.

If an ideal society is that in which only the Police and Army possess firearms, I submit that when only the Police and Military can possess firearms in such a society is a "Police State".

Of course “they” want to ban everything. But will I make any of my rifles compliant should that occur? Nope
Furthermore, I never adhered to the BS 922R parts count either. Fuck these people, and fuck their agenda.

screw it
I’m ordering one  

50yrd with 52gr HPBT match bullets

( actually better than expected)

Attached File

I agree on the factory mags. I had several PMI mags back in the ban days. They worked well back then, but I sold most of them off when Ruger started producing factory mags again for “reasonable” prices.

There used to be a company that made inserts to fix the gassing issue… Perfect Union board was the place to be for the mini 14.


I only keep mine out of nostalgia…haven’t shot it in close to 10 years.

Accuracy systems Inc still makes the gas port kits, as well as adjustable gas blocks.

RugerForum   is the go-to site nowadays.  Most of the "experienced" folks have migrated away from PerfectUnion for "reasons".

My favorite thing about Mini 14's is how people call them "toys"....."not a serious rifle"  then I proceed to outshoot the AR's.  Maybe I am just fantastic with irons?  I can assure you its not a toy.  Get one.

The only reason that I gave Ruger my money
to buy one was to build an A-Team clone after
Samson released their folding stock.

The two that you've posted should keep all your rounds in the chest of full size silhouette at 100 yards.
That's good enough for social work.
I've had good luck with cheap Thermold mags from Sportsman's Guide, but it's been a while.
The company that used to make reliable aftermarket mags was Precision Mag Industries (PMI).
They went out of business during the Assault Weapons Ban in the 1990s.

They hold their value pretty well because they are so freakin' expensive to begin with.

I've had several.
My last one was like the blue/poly one in your post.
Attached File

For some reason a factory wood stock would not fit that gun or I would probably still have it.
Sold it at a loss, like an idiot.
I'd love to have a stainless one with the 16" barrel and flash hider, but not at $1000.

They are a decent, reliable carbine.
The main gripes are Ruger won't sell you the important parts like the bolt, and they are not nearly as easy to work on as an AK or AR.

I love the looks and would live to have another but not unless Ruger cuts the price by half, or I find a smokin' deal.

Because Mini 14s are classic.
Attached File

Police trade Mini-14 GB

I paid $299 for a stainless Ranch rifle. A Green label Colt AR was $425 at the time. That $125 was a lot of money at the time.

Over time it had a Choate pistol grip stock and an M-14 style thin flash hider with wings on the front sight and replaced the rear sight.
It looked good and when shot within its limitations (minute of pie plate at 100 yards) made a great truck gun.

I traded it off for an AK and about three months later wanted it back. My buddy sold it.

Maybe I should have waited and saved up that extra $125.

When I got into the hobby. I said I wanted a Mini 14 as my first rifle. Buncha people laughed at me.

Now they cost so much, I regret not grabbing one at $500-$600. ARs are pretty damn boring. Some of us just want a M14 in a cheaper caliber. I kinda like the aesthetics as well.

I will let you in on a little "secret".

It's >>possible<< to find used, decent condition Mini-30s for sale.  The reason for this is that Ruger has made them with a firing pin that is a few thousandths of an inch too short to reliably fire many types/brands of steel-cased ammo.  People get frustrated and get rid of them.  The "secret" is to obtain a new, longer firing pin from Firingpins.com    carefully adjust the firing pin protrusion, and your Mini-30 will be completely reliable.

Search "firing pin protrusion" on sites Ruger Forum   and  Perfect Union   Member sandog posts on both sites and has given precise instructions on how to do this simple mod.

Disclaimer: No financial interest.

Love my mini. Had a 580 series for a few years now.  Tuned it, did some mods and put an Ultimak and a nice leather cuff on it.  Shoots close to MOA / MOA with really good ammo.  Honestly, probably my favorite rifle I own.  ARs are just not my thing.

Because they are cool.  So are PC carbines



Have you seen my videos?

I always thought they were nice looking rifles. I liked the looks of the classic wood stock. Kind of half M1 carbine look and a bit of M14. But then I ask my why buy another semi-auto 5.56 when I have a few decent AR-15s.

Back when, it used to be common practice to "cut" the "Pencil" barrels of Mini-14s.   This often resulted in smaller groups.  Perhaps this was accomplished by the shorter barrel reducing barrel "Whip", or perhaps cutting and re-crowning the barrel remediated worn rifling at the muzzle of some Minis.

Unfortunately, "cutting" the barrel always resulted in reduced bullet velocity, and hence reduced effective range. Inescapable.

Nowadays, it's a bit simpler--and cheaper:

Step 1 is to remediate any wear on the rifling at the end of the bore, usually by a re-crowning, which can be done inexpensively by most folks using correct tools.

Step 2 is to install an Accu-Strut (or equivalent) on a Pencil-barreled Mini.  Mini-30s and modern Mini-14s have "Heavy" barrels and may not benefit/need this.

Step 3 is to install thin plastic or metal shims inside the stock, often underneath the metal stock reinforcement bracket (if present) to reduce "play" of the barreled action within the stock.  Syn stocks are often "tighter" and may not need "shimming".

Step 4 is to positively determine the Rate-Of-Twist of the barrel of your individual Mini-14 and use the "preferred" bullet weight. Do experiment, but at least begin in the optimal "ballpark".  See HERE

My 186 series Mini-14, with 1-7" ROT "Pencil" barrel, will shoot about 2 MOA, all day long, with very good quality ammo.  Most Mil rifles are about 2-4 MOA with Mil ammo.

I've made some tweaks to my Mini since my "2 MOA" claims, including (but not limited to) an Accu-strut, trigger job, and "shimming" the syn stock.  Not making any specific claims, but accuracy has improved a bit.  Reaching the point of diminishing returns.

If your particular Mini-14 seems to be lacking in accuracy, perhaps it's due to abuse (muzzle damage) by former owners.  Or maybe you are using the wrong bullets.  Or maybe your stock is too "loose".  All these things can be remedied, usually as a DIY project, and for cheap.

Depending on your particular model of Mini, and if it is still "serviced" by them, consider sending it back to Ruger and see if they will fix your problems under warranty.  I did so and got back a Mini that shot a whole lot better than when I sent it to them.  I believe they "adjusted" the chamber headspace tighter.

For those interested, my (just) Pre-Ban Colt "Match" HBAR AR is my reference point as regards accuracy.  The 20" barrel Colt is more accurate than my 16" Mini, but NOT as much as some folks might think.

I >>think<< you mean the screws for the Mini "Gas Block".  If I haven't misunderstood you, then yes, torquing the gas block screws to a lesser torque value, such as 25 In/Lbs instead of OEM 40 In/Lbs may result in improved accuracy.

Poster sandog on PerfectUnion  has done experiments concerning this.

I now have 4 do to my dad passing. A 181, 182, Stainless GB, and once the form 5 comes back, a full size AC 556. The 181 was his go-to semi auto and he was pretty good with it, bought it new in 77, I think. They are fun riles, and are accurate enough for what I want to use it for. The AC is a blast, but I haven't fired it in years. Not something I would have bought myself, but now I will have one.

I'll probably spin off the 182 at some point. I' mayend up with over 50 mags, I have no idea how many he has.

My condolences on your loss.  You may wish to contact Ruger and obtain (for a nominal fee) a certificate from Ruger stating when each Mini was made, and in what exact configuration it left the factory.  The earlier models, such as the 181 and 182, may have limited or non-existent parts support from Ruger at this point, although some parts common to all models may still be available.  Replacing the Op-Rod springs might not be a bad idea.  "High-Power" op-rod springs NOT desirable.

All of them may be worth more than you think.   Magazines, due to age/use, may require some springs to be replaced, maybe not.  All mags are suspect until proven otherwise; mark them individually for testing.  Ruger mags are likely more reliable than most aftermarket mags, although there were some aftermarket mags made that were as good as Ruger factory mags.   Best Wishes!

Cause A Team.

@JDoggyHoplite

I have two older ones in addition to my AR’s. They are fun and fit the wife well. Accuracy is not at all good but neither is an AK. I have no,plans to get rid of them even though they (like my AK) don’t get shot much

Back in the day I had two Minis.  I sold them both after I got my first AR.

Comparing the accuracy of an AR and a Mini is pointless. How accurate is an AR? As accurate as you want it to be - or more specifically, as accurate as you’re willing to spend money to make it. If you’re willing to spend a few thousand dollars on it, you can come up with a competition-beating AR that will hold its own against any rifle you can find anywhere. Or you can buy bargain basement parts, and end up with an AR that will mostly hit the broad side of a barn most of the time.

The real question is: How accurate is a Mini compared to a similarly-priced AR? The answer there seems to be that if you put Tech Sights or a decent optic on a 5xx-series Mini, they’ll be pretty close to each other.

Which is more or less what one would expect.

Minis are starting at what, $800?  I don't think a Mini w/ factory irons is going to beat a factory AR w/ a red dot.  If we start w/ two $800 guns and put magnified optics on both of em, I think the Mini's even further behind.

It's a neat platform and I'd love to have one - I'd have one for fun If I could get one at the entry price of an AR.  At twice the entry price, as a dealer even if I got one for cheap I'd flip it for market.

With any Mini, begin by carefully examining the rifling at the muzzle with good light and magnifying glass.  If the rifling is not "sharp" at its' forward edge, the rifling may have been damaged by improper tools/cleaning technique.  The rifling at the muzzle must be "refreshed by "re-crowning" or any other tweaks will have greatly reduced effects.  Same thing for M1s, M1As, and M-1 Carbines.  This "refreshing" can be a DIY project with the correct tools (Brownells).  Make sure to buy and use appropriate Muzzle Guide for your cleaning rod.

Two cheap tricks to enhance Mini accuracy are: (1) Shim the inside of the stock with thin, incompressible shims to eliminate side-to-side play of receiver within the stock.  Shims installed underneath the metal stock reinforcement (if present) or glued to sides of syn stock.  2) Adjust torque of gas block screws to 25 In/Lbs instead of OEM 40 In/Lbs.  Minimal cost DIY project.

Not exactly a "Trick" but determining the Rate-Of-Twist of the barrel on one's particular Mini will indicate the correct weight of bullet to be used. Do experiment but suggest beginning with what is likely the correct bullet.  Zero cost project.  Mini-14/Mini-30 Rate-Of-Twist Chart  1-10" ROT probably begin with 55gn bullet; 1-7 ROT begin with 62gn bullet.  Again, do experiment; every Mini is a little different.

There are many other tricks, but doing the above four things is likely to give surprisingly gratifying results.   Most experienced Mini-14 users report about 2MOA accuracy after performing the tweaks which their model of Mini-14 needs and using quality ammo.  Even the Notorious early "Pencil Barrel" Minis can give about 2MOA accuracy, but this requires spending about $150 for a dual clamp barrel strut, and a short Choate front sight/flash suppressor combo device. in addition to the abovementioned tweaks.

I own a Mini 14 and a Mini 30.  When I bought my mini 14 the only AR's available were Colt and Armalite and both were big bucks.  I like both of the Minis.  I can neither confirm nor deny that when I have the M1a at the range, I tell the gullible it's a Mini 14.  Is that wrong?

I already own multiple AR's, AK's etc. but would love to have one of the newer Mini-14 Tacticals (16") in a blued A-TM stock.

Does anyone make a straightline Mini-14 stock, w/ no pistol grip?

I still have my 183 series bought new in '82 for $290. It's been altered a bit since then.
Attached File

I can't think of any reason to buy a less reliable, less accurate, less adaptable, specialized parts rifle unless it just makes you happy.  If it makes you happy, go for it.  If you are on the fence, I would find something else fun.  

The best parallel I can think of would be buying an Atari 2600 or an original iPod with your favorite songs on it.  There is no technical reason for your choice, but if it gives you more value in happiness than it costs or than an alternative purchase would, then go for it.

I don't necessarily think mini14s are bad, besides accuracy woahs.  They aren't ar's, but they aren't any worse than some other 556 rifles like AK, galil, or some tavors.  I hate to say it, but due to my states new law, I'm in the market for 1.  I've got block1 and mk12 mod0 clones, builds with woa barrels that have no issue shooting .5-.75moa, but they will be moved to a free state and my choices for a semi are m1 garand, m1 carbine, or mini 14.

If you have a M1 Garand, a M1A, and a M1 carbine it would be cool to have to complete the set...

This comment is typical of many, many uninformed folks, and no offense.

My much-modified 186 series "Pencil-barrel" Mini (mostly modified by myself at scant cost) will reliably shoot inside 2 MOA all day long.

Later-made "Heavy" barreled Minis are better made and need fewer user "improvements".

I've shot my Mini against some "shorty" AR users and won some bets.

FWIW, I have a Colt Match HBAR AR for comparison.

Reasons to want a Mini-14:

1.  They are nice and light like a M-1 carbine.
2.  They are very fast handling because of #1 above.
3.  They aren't normally seen as an evil "assault rifle".
4.  While more expensive than the cheapest AR-15, they aren't terribly expensive.
5.  They are capable of reasonable magazine capacity.
6.  Their small size makes them easy to carry in smaller places.

Reasons to NOT want a Mini-14

1.  Accuracy problems.
2.  Many don't have flash hiders.
3.  Accuracy problems.
4.  They usually cost more than an AR15.  Similarly priced AR15's will usually shoot much better.
5.  Price.

Did I mention accuracy problems?