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Posted: 5/23/2016 11:01:56 AM EDT
have a revolver that is indexing partially past the cylinder being fired while the hammer is dropping. thumbing down the hammer does not do recreate this, but a full speed dry fire shows me that the locking "lug" lowers slightly as the hammer drops. i pulled it apart and found these wear marks:



















What are my options?





Host gun:







 
Link Posted: 5/23/2016 12:09:05 PM EDT
[#1]
Replace bolt and hand.
Retime as required.
Link Posted: 5/23/2016 12:21:08 PM EDT
[#2]


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Replace bolt and hand.


Retime as required.
View Quote
How does one go about timing a revolver?






And is the hammer still good?

 
Link Posted: 5/23/2016 1:49:48 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
How does one go about timing a revolver?

And is the hammer still good?
 
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Replace bolt and hand.
Retime as required.
How does one go about timing a revolver?

And is the hammer still good?
 

See if this applies.  Or start looking on youtube or other SASS recommended sites.
http://www.time-slice.com/mohave.gambler/favorites/Remington/Rem_pocket_pistol/Pocket_Pistol.htm

https://www.google.com/#q=troubleshooting+timing+remington+pocket+pistol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zK5lV8gwAY
Link Posted: 5/23/2016 3:04:01 PM EDT
[#4]
some video (yes i know you dont dry fire precussion guns, but its the only way to replicate the problem)





Link Posted: 5/24/2016 11:18:32 AM EDT
[#5]
Sorry, I'm going to contradict the earlier poster.  Bolt and hand likely don't need to be replaced.  The bolt is getting hung up on the ramp on the hammer as the hammer falls.  A few things that can help are to polishing the ramp on the hammer and give the part of the bolt that contacts the hammer ramp a polish (and a bevel if it is lacking).  Increase the force the bolt spring is applying to the bolt.  Finally, apply some grease to the bolt and hammer ramp where they contact.
Link Posted: 5/24/2016 10:28:40 PM EDT
[#6]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Sorry, I'm going to contradict the earlier poster.  Bolt and hand likely don't need to be replaced.  The bolt is getting hung up on the ramp on the hammer as the hammer falls.  A few things that can help are to polishing the ramp on the hammer and give the part of the bolt that contacts the hammer ramp a polish (and a bevel if it is lacking).  Increase the force the bolt spring is applying to the bolt.  Finally, apply some grease to the bolt and hammer ramp where they contact.
View Quote
ok, small update. i think i might have fixed it. and in kindof an oddball manner. i noticed that the mainspring was loose in its slot at the base of the grip. the bigger 58's have a screw to set the spring. these pocket models do not. Im guessing this guns spring slot was out of spec and Whoever owned this pistol before me tried to use leather wedges to put tension on the main spring. they were in position during the video. well where the leather wedges were sitting was about half way up the main spring to get a half way descent hammer drop. but putting them there created the problem i was having. on a hunch i shimmed the base of the main spring with a shim that goes half way down the main spring slot. the cylinder unlock problem is gone.

 






ill be ordering new springs in the near future, but i'm not going to give up on the bolt/hand just yet. thank you to the people that responded. you gave me some info that got me thinking from a different angle on this.



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