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Posted: 5/8/2016 4:35:05 PM EDT
[#1]
Certain billet lowers use a threaded allen screw that goes in from the butt end. Check yours to see if that is the case. Otherwise you will need as long a drill bit you can find and try to drill it from the muzzle end large enough to drive the pin out to the rear.
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Posted: 5/8/2016 6:45:57 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for your reply. I don’t think this one use a threaded allen screw as it is clearly a roll pin that is in there. I’ve managed to drill through to the other side using small drill bits that goes through the middle of the hollow roll pin but even though I can enlarge the hole from the other side, there is a problem. The billet lower has a large protrusion there that will prevent me from inserting a punch in there to push the roll pin out. Makes me wonder why they design such a lower. It’s an expensive billet lower and you would think that more thought would be put into designing the thing? |
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Posted: 5/8/2016 9:32:46 PM EDT
[#3]
Bad news. The ar15.com billet lower has a threaded bolt catch pin.
If someone pounded a regular roll pin in there, they fucked up. Get a dremel with a thin cutoff wheel and carefully cut the roll pin between the bolt catch and the ears on the lower. Your best bet might be to cut across the bolt catch, leaving enough roll pin on the muzzle side sticking out that you can get a pair of needle nose on it to wiggle/pry it out. The stock side you should be able to drive out through the middle once you get the bolt catch out of the way. Yes, this method is gonna suck, and it's gonna scar up the ears on your bolt catch. But it will keep the holes for the bolt catch the correct size for the re-install. Option 2 is to drill out the roll pin, but finding a drill that can get square to the hole is extremely problematic. Perhaps a flex extension for a hex driver and a hex-drive drill bit might work. Then you're might have to use an oversize roll pin for the replacement and drill out the hole on your replacement bolt-catch, too. You haven't mentioned why you're replacing the bolt catch. If it's just to install a different one for cosmetic reasons, I'd say just give up on that plan now. |
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Posted: 5/8/2016 9:43:08 PM EDT
[#4]
Has this always been the case with the ARFCOM billet lower? This one is from 2011? I am actually not trying to replace the bolt stop. The problem with this gun is the bolt stop does not go up high enough to catch the bolt securely. With a mag it, it will stay open but without a mag, the stop will just catch it enough that is until it gets jolted. I think the problem is the stop is out of spec and bottoms out too soon so not letting the stop part go up high enough. The gun works but will not run dry on an open bolt, thus the desire to take the stop out for some mod. |
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Posted: 5/8/2016 11:35:38 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Has this always been the case with the ARFCOM billet lower? This one is from 2011? I am actually not trying to replace the bolt stop. The problem with this gun is the bolt stop does not go up high enough to catch the bolt securely. With a mag it, it will stay open but without a mag, the stop will just catch it enough that is until it gets jolted. I think the problem is the stop is out of spec and bottoms out too soon so not letting the stop part go up high enough. The gun works but will not run dry on an open bolt, thus the desire to take the stop out for some mod. I don't know if that's always been the case, but if your lower doesn't have a hole on the front side, it would be the logical explanation. I seriously doubt anyone would manufacture a lower you wouldn't have the ability to drive a roll pin out of. All I can tell you is my AR15.com lower had a set-screw bolt catch pin. Man that really sucks for you, because the whole idea behind the screw in pin was to make it easier to replace the bolt catch while minimizing the chance of marring up your lower. |
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Posted: 5/9/2016 10:12:38 AM EDT
[#6]
It was me who put the roll pin in 5 years ago but honestly when I got the lower from ARFCOM, there was no instructions to go with the lower, just a bag of parts, and I put the roll pin in as that is what I have done in the past. Should have hesitated since there was obviously no exit hole for the roll pin, but that is past history. The good news is I managed to get the roll pin out. What I did was to use a flex drill extension and small drill bits going through the center of the roll pin to drill a hole through to the other side, then came back from that side with a larger drill bit. Once the hole was enlarged, I used a broken drill bit in a roll pin holder to tap the roll pin out. I was pretty careful so no scratches on the lower. Now to fix the bolt stop…. |
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Posted: 5/9/2016 1:08:11 PM EDT
[#7]
Glad it worked out for you. That had to have been a nerve-wracking process.
Be sure and post pics when you get your baby back together! 
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Posted: 5/9/2016 1:26:16 PM EDT
[#8]
 Oh it’s all done. Once I got the roll pin out, I worked on grinding the bolt stop down (see other thread) so that it would catch the bolt reliably. I also "adjusted” the lower a bit more on that lower cross bar so that I can use a BAD level on it (to keep my guns consistent with my other ARs). You can see the small silver where the other hole came out on the left side. I’ve painted the adjusted part for the BAD level so it will be harder to see. BTW, when the roll pin came out, I looked inside the hole and there was indeed threads in there. |
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