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Posted: 4/10/2016 7:49:44 PM EDT
[#1]
First off, do you have the shotgun in your possession yet, or are you going off pictures you had seen of the shotgun on GB? Your post wasn't clear on that one...
There is no easy answer to your question. Most solvents will attack the synthetic stock once you are down to the plastic. Rattle can finishes, in my experience, typically yield to lacquer thinner pretty easy. But, it is hell on plastic. IF you are lucky, and that is a big IF, the paint will come off with normal everyday mineral spirits & a stiff toothbrush, mineral spirits go easy on most plastics. That, and lots of patience. Personally, I'd write off the stock & just clean off the metal. Replacement stocks are typically cheap & pretty easy to come by. |
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Posted: 4/10/2016 8:42:25 PM EDT
[#2]
Much depends on what kind of paint is on it.
Check with a good paint store. There are a few plastic-safe paint removers that may work. If the guns base metal finish is bluing or parkerizing lacquer thinner or a metal-safe paint remover will work. If the base finish is one of the paint type finishes, things get "iffy". As above, a lot of paints can be removed by soaking in cheap paint thinner, helped along with scrubbing with a solvent-proof tooth brush like an M16 rifle toothbrush. |
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Posted: 4/11/2016 12:20:44 AM EDT
[#3]
thanks for the replies.
I am only going off of pics right now. I am a clinical chemist and we have all kinds of solvents at the lab. I was also curious about using some low heat to loosen up the paint. I was curious if there was a tried and true method used by Pro's. what about hitting it with a bead blaster? |
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Posted: 4/11/2016 12:46:53 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
thanks for the replies. I am only going off of pics right now. I am a clinical chemist and we have all kinds of solvents at the lab. I was also curious about using some low heat to loosen up the paint. I was curious if there was a tried and true method used by Pro's. what about hitting it with a bead blaster? It'll do some damage to the finish below the paint, depending on what finish that is and what media is used. Are you going to refinish at some point? |
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Posted: 4/11/2016 8:18:50 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It'll do some damage to the finish below the paint, depending on what finish that is and what media is used. Are you going to refinish at some point? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
thanks for the replies. I am only going off of pics right now. I am a clinical chemist and we have all kinds of solvents at the lab. I was also curious about using some low heat to loosen up the paint. I was curious if there was a tried and true method used by Pro's. what about hitting it with a bead blaster? It'll do some damage to the finish below the paint, depending on what finish that is and what media is used. Are you going to refinish at some point? Cerekote of something like that. |
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Posted: 4/12/2016 12:31:31 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cerekote of something like that. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: thanks for the replies. I am only going off of pics right now. I am a clinical chemist and we have all kinds of solvents at the lab. I was also curious about using some low heat to loosen up the paint. I was curious if there was a tried and true method used by Pro's. what about hitting it with a bead blaster? It'll do some damage to the finish below the paint, depending on what finish that is and what media is used. Are you going to refinish at some point? Cerekote of something like that. Best way I've found for metal parts is a vat of acetone and let is soak for about an hour (or less). Paint just peels off with ease. |
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Posted: 4/12/2016 5:41:08 PM EDT
[#7]
Try soaking in transmission fluid for a while, the detergents in it is amazing
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Posted: 4/12/2016 11:03:32 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Then whoever you're using to Cerakote will end up blasting the spray paint off anyway, unless you are doing it yourself, minus abrasive blasting. I have used Citri Strip on polymer, but it might not be safe for certain plastic products. Old paint tends to take longer to strip off. Best way I've found for metal parts is a vat of acetone and let is soak for about an hour (or less). Paint just peels off with ease. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
thanks for the replies. I am only going off of pics right now. I am a clinical chemist and we have all kinds of solvents at the lab. I was also curious about using some low heat to loosen up the paint. I was curious if there was a tried and true method used by Pro's. what about hitting it with a bead blaster? It'll do some damage to the finish below the paint, depending on what finish that is and what media is used. Are you going to refinish at some point? Cerekote of something like that. Best way I've found for metal parts is a vat of acetone and let is soak for about an hour (or less). Paint just peels off with ease. This guy knows what he is talking about Most rattle can finishes will wipe right off with acetone on a rag. Very little chance of affecting the factory finish or stock, I've never had an issue |
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Posted: 4/13/2016 2:49:25 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This guy knows what he is talking about Most rattle can finishes will wipe right off with acetone on a rag. Very little chance of affecting the factory finish or stock, I've never had an issue Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
thanks for the replies. I am only going off of pics right now. I am a clinical chemist and we have all kinds of solvents at the lab. I was also curious about using some low heat to loosen up the paint. I was curious if there was a tried and true method used by Pro's. what about hitting it with a bead blaster? It'll do some damage to the finish below the paint, depending on what finish that is and what media is used. Are you going to refinish at some point? Cerekote of something like that. Best way I've found for metal parts is a vat of acetone and let is soak for about an hour (or less). Paint just peels off with ease. This guy knows what he is talking about Most rattle can finishes will wipe right off with acetone on a rag. Very little chance of affecting the factory finish or stock, I've never had an issue I've already pulled a gallon of Acetone off the supply shelf for when the shotgun gets here. I was hoping an easy solvent would take care of it. thanks for all the replies. |
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Posted: 4/13/2016 9:15:26 PM EDT
[#10]
Are you going to do the Cerakote yourself? What part of the state are you in?
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Posted: 4/13/2016 11:43:57 PM EDT
[#11]
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Are you going to do the Cerakote yourself? What part of the state are you in? no.. i'll take it somewhere. I'm in Tulsa, but travel all over. |
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Posted: 4/14/2016 12:20:34 PM EDT
[#12]
Gotcha, it's not hard to do but does require a little skill and some equipment. I don't do as much as I used to, but still do some projects from time to time.
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Posted: 5/1/2016 7:15:55 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
no.. i'll take it somewhere. I'm in Tulsa, but travel all over. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Are you going to do the Cerakote yourself? What part of the state are you in? no.. i'll take it somewhere. I'm in Tulsa, but travel all over. If you already have a decent compressor you only need a couple hundred more to start cerakoating. Most places charge $200 per gun. I've now completed 4 guns and my investment has already paid for itself many times over. $30 toaster over for receivers and small parts and a 5th burner for $20 and another $30 for an 8" air duct tube and some wrap insulation. |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 11:27:30 AM EDT
[#14]
here what i have used on my Savage synthetic stocks and actions. spray it on and wait, then hose off. almost never need a second application and it won't harm the synthetic stocks.(doesn't like fiberglass according to instructions).
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Klean-Strip-Premium-Paint-Stripper/17208799 Bruce |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 5:35:43 PM EDT
[#15]
I used Hoppes #9 to clean up a shotgun that was spray painted by the thief that stole it from my buddy. It didn't take much effort.
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Posted: 5/12/2016 6:29:26 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you already have a decent compressor you only need a couple hundred more to start cerakoating. Most places charge $200 per gun. I've now completed 4 guns and my investment has already paid for itself many times over. $30 toaster over for receivers and small parts and a 5th burner for $20 and another $30 for an 8" air duct tube and some wrap insulation. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Are you going to do the Cerakote yourself? What part of the state are you in? no.. i'll take it somewhere. I'm in Tulsa, but travel all over. If you already have a decent compressor you only need a couple hundred more to start cerakoating. Most places charge $200 per gun. I've now completed 4 guns and my investment has already paid for itself many times over. $30 toaster over for receivers and small parts and a 5th burner for $20 and another $30 for an 8" air duct tube and some wrap insulation. I have a spare kitchen stove/oven in the shop and I have a small compressor. I have Alumihyded several guns before but have not tinkered with Cerekote. I was thinking about just spraying this one with Alumihyde too. thanks for the ideas guys. |
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