Easy then, your going to just order a standard SS frame, then will need to throat the barrel and blend the ramp to the barrel to achieve the 1/32" gap.
Note, don't start blending the frame feed ramp until you get the barrel lugs fitted to the slide and the correct needed length barrel link in play. Hence with the 10mm, your going to have a shorter time between refresh on the pistol, and depending on if you need to change the barrel link to tighen the pistol back up, come that time you may have to rework the barrel feed ramp to hold the needed gap. So again, on a 10mm rig, go with a Nowlin or Clark ramped barrel to start with, and it makes the refreshing of the pistol a lot easy instead.
As for the frame slide, know the crack points on them (frame want to crack at the cut out top bride for the slide lock, and the shroud just past the rails, and make sure that you don't go over board with lowering the ejection port too low in the first place when you go to lower and scallop the ejection port. Hence leave the ejection port bottom side slightly high that you would on a 45 pistol, and taper the inside of the port edge longer instead.
Trust is, for a 10mm build, would build it on a forged 2011 frame since they are stronger, and start with a plan jane slide to work it over myself. On the slide stop area, hell of lot more metal to keep the frame from cracking there, as well as more metal where the slide rails stop to keep the frame from cracking there as well.
Also, a ejection port lowered to .450 works great for a 45, but is not needed for the smaller 10mm case to clean the port, and just leaves the slide too thin in that area for the added recoil that the slide will see; ending up with the slide cracking there.