Birchwood Casey makes a very effective blue remover, steel wool will work.
How bad is the metal? if you have pitting, you may want to think about using emery cloth and sand paper to get down to clean metal.
Depending on the depth of the pits, I will start wit 220, or 120 for really deeply pitted metal, and work up to 320, or all the way out to 600 if you want a gloss instead of matte.
The quality of your blue job will directly reflect your metal prep.
For home bluing, rust bluing is very effective and economical, you can do it in stages, as you have time. You prep the metal, rust it, boil it to convert the rust to black oxide, card it with a soft steel brush or fine steel wool, then reapply the agent and repeat until you get it as dark as you want or it stops taking on rust.
After boiling and carding, it is stable and can be set aside for a day or two if need be, then reboiled to clean it , and agent reaplied.
Here's a
Link to Brownells Rust Blue, and here's a
Link to the instructions
I have found this to be a very satisfying , if time consuming way to reblue old guns. It makes a much more durable finish than the cold bluing products.
There is also a way to hot blue at home using drain cleaner, I have yet to try it, but a lot of good results out there,
Here's a link to one of the sites.
Post your work so we can see the results...