BLO will not reseal a gunstock.  It is not waterproof, and despite its good look after it finally cures, it's a terrible finish for gun stocks.

Super glues and epoxy leave a hard bond line that must be kept below the surface to be sanded or a high out of profile line will result; the surrounding wood is softer and gets removed much quicker.

Use Weldwood or similar wood glue.

I had a nasty old M2 stock that came with a gun I bought from a member here.  I cleaned it up, glued it up, and pinned it up, then stained it with my favorite Minwax red oak stain.  I need to finish bedding it to the action.

If you have to use BLO, make double certain the can contains dryers, and then apply it -

once day for a week,
once a week for a month, and
once a month for a year.

Without dryers in the linseed oil, it will never completely cure.  Setting the stock out in the sun can help, but no matter what you do, months are required to get rid of the sticky surface.

Modified linseed oils were created just for this reason, Linspeed was probably the first and works great.  Despite a perception that it's cheap so it can't be any good, Birchwood Casey Tru Oil is another choice.  Both of these materials polymerize during cure.  Plus they are waterproof.  Both can be used to achieve a shiny finish or knocked back for one with a more mellow finish.  

Nowadays I cut Tru Oil about 3 to 1 or even more dilute with turpentine, and apply it in very thin coats.  After it cures, I look at the stock in a glancing light to find any places where the finish looks cloudy and buff that out before applying the next coat.  I want the finish to be completely clear all the way through every application of oil.

Here are the stocks for my Martini International.  My Carbine is the same color, I really like a red background in my stocks.  Both stocks were rubbed down afterwards to reduce the shine.



That represents way too many applications, 13 or 14 coats.  I worked on it so long that I started to pick up dings from handling, you can see one on the left end of the forearm, and there's another one on the cheek piece.

A couple of years ago during a checkering class I learned that my utility stocks from here out will be finished with either Gun Sav'r or Minwax polyurethane from an aerosol can.  The look is great, and the application is painless, although I rubbed each coat out to insure good penetration and uniform distribution with no build up.