Start with correct screwdrivers, files, and stones.

Get a vise for the drill press.  Learn how to make screwdriver tips correct for the screw slot.

Buy good quality files.  If they don't have a safe edge, then put a safe edge on them.  That means you'll need a bench grinder.

Locate the grinder and any disc or belt sanders in their own corner where the dust can be controlled and kept away from the other tools.  Near a window is a good idea.  In a separate room is a better idea.

Start collecting stones now.  Don't be afraid to modify them for the job.  Don't get stuck looking just at the stones for sale at Brownell's, although that is a good place to start.

Get familiar with the tools and equipment for sale at MSC Industrial, EMCO, McMaster Carr, Grainger, and Fastenal.  For now.

Also, buy the biggest Foredom tool you can find and a box full of burrs, stones, saws, and cutting wheels.

The Grace screwdrivers from Brownell's and Forster's screwdrivers are probably the premier sets on the market these days, followed by the Brownell's sets with interchangeable tips.

The interchangeable tips are a good thing as the broken ones can be replaced and extras can be bought for modification to fit screws that no one's off the shelf screw drivers fit.

If you do high end work, call 'em turn screws, especially if you make a set for a gun.  Turn screws are worth more money.

I have two sets of the Chapman screwdrivers.  They're worth the price, but the tips are hard and I've broken a couple.  They're probably good enough, I don't feel any particular drive to buy something else right now.

If you work on antique guns (say 18th Century to 19th Century American guns), pay attention to the screw slots, there's a good chance they do not have parallel sides, they will have sloped sides on the slots due to hand cutting.

Practical gunsmithing lesson:

Make a plug for each of the barrel.  Plug the chamber.  Fill the barrel with Butch's Bore Shine.  Plug the other end, set the gun with the barrel pointing up.  Let soak overnight.

Or, try cleaning with Sweet's 7.62 or some other dedicated copper solvent for bores.  I won't recommend soaking overnight, but only because someone will get butt hurt.  I've never seen damage from long soaks in Sweet's.

You might as buy a bottle now, it's going to be a tool on your bench for a long time.

One other approach is to use one of the paste cleaners.  I recommend the stiff brushes sold by Iosso.  There's a trick with these; the color of patches run through a bore a thousand times will come out black, or very dark gray.  The bore was clean way before that, so check.

You're going to need that stuff on your bench, too.

Get a good white light for peeking into bores to see copper.  An incadescent light looks yellow in the bore and copper is just about impossible to see.  I can't see copper in a .22 caliber bore at all with any light.

If you soak the barrel, you might want to put it muzzle down in a pan in case your plug leaks.

You ought to try cleaning with Sweet's and a good brush first, it probably doesn't need to be soaked.

It's ammonia central and it's gonna clear your sinuses; don't lean over to get a big sniff from the bottle.  The lid has a flip up dispenser that goes a long way to controlling the smell.  But there's no problem using it indoors.  My wife and daughters complain about the smell of Butch's, Sweet's, and Hoppe's; they just don't appreciate the experience.