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Posted: 4/20/2017 10:00:54 PM EDT
As the title says. My Uzi is hard as fuck to get loaded. It seems like I don't have enough room to pull the charging handle back so there is not enough momentum to strip the first round.



Is it possible to cut that buffer block or get a shorter one?
Link Posted: 4/20/2017 10:10:38 PM EDT
[#1]
Is something in the grip safety binding up?
Link Posted: 4/20/2017 10:46:12 PM EDT
[#2]
Mine is also like that. I figured it was normal, but I don't know.
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 7:14:09 AM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
Is something in the grip safety binding up?
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It travels all the way back it just stops at that buffer block... That block has got to be 2 inches thick.

Then when released it just moves like a half inch and binds up on that first round..


In looking at it, i feel that if it had more room to get momentum it could strip that round.


I see threads about changing that block thickness to adjust rof but that's all in fa uzis.


Didn't know if the thickness or rof really mattered in a semi.
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 8:05:01 AM EDT
[#4]
The buffer in a closed bolt semi Uzi is the only thing that keeps your recoil and striker springs "where they need to be"

trimming/cutting the buffer might cause problems with your striker spring......
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 8:59:16 AM EDT
[#5]
Is your bolt binding on the top cover at all?
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 9:02:33 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
The buffer in a closed bolt semi Uzi is the only thing that keeps your recoil and striker springs "where they need to be"

trimming/cutting the buffer might cause problems with your striker spring......
View Quote
Ah..
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 9:02:45 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Is your bolt binding on the top cover at all?
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This would be my vote as well.
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 9:03:24 AM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:
Is your bolt binding on the top cover at all?
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Not that I can tell...


When I get home ill take some pics..
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 9:42:34 AM EDT
[#9]
Need more info, who made the gun? kit build? who's barrel?  sometimes the mag catch gets bent and it will not feed properly,
(if the mag is too high or low) also sometimes it will strip a round from one side and not the other.
if the gun cycles with no mag in it freely then it may be mag location.
if you still have some drag then it may be the top cover just needs to be bent a little.
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 10:19:55 AM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:


Not that I can tell...


When I get home ill take some pics..
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You will need a set of feeler gauges to make sure.
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 4:25:33 PM EDT
[#11]
You're looking for at least .005" clearance and no more than .015" clearance between the top of the bolt and the bottom of the cover.  A clearance of .010" is ideal.   Use a feeler gauge through the ejection port and feel as far fore and aft as it will reach.  You can bend one to achieve the proper clearance with a drill press and some wooden blocks.

However, failing to go into battery from a  manually cycled isn't usually the major issue with a top cover that's binding.  That particular problem more often results in the bolt short stroking and not feeding the next round when the bolt is cycling under recoil.

----

A few thoughts on the problem of the round not going into battery on a manual cycle of the bolt.  

1) Uzi mags are one of the few that can be loaded beyond capacity, particularly with a magazine loader.  The last round loaded should be on the left for a 32 round magazine and on the right if it's a 25 round magazine. If you've loaded 26  rounds in a 25 round magazine, or 33 rounds in a 32 round magazine, you'll now have the first round very snugly fit in the magazine.

2) If you load it at 24 rounds (25 round mag) or 32 rounds (32 round mag) you'll be starting with the top round on the left, and it'll make life easier.  That's because rounds feeding from the right side are usually more prone to hanging up than rounds feeding from the left.  Similarly, if you're loading a partially full magazine and the top round is on the right, strip a round off (or add a round) so that the top round is on the left.

3) check the edges of the feed lips and smooth the bottom edge of the feed lip if it is rough, particularly on the right side.

4) a cartridge with a too short OAL will be more likely to hang up on the case mouth when feeding.  I generally load 147 gr RNs in my Uzi, and I load my Uzi rounds to a near maximum OAL.
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 4:56:02 PM EDT
[#12]
Are Uzis blow-back?
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 5:29:53 PM EDT
[#13]
Is your UZI an IMI UZI or a Vector, Century, home build? Anyway, try charging it without the top cover on. See what happens.
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 6:31:42 PM EDT
[#14]
Dumb question: you don't have a SMG topcover on there, do you?
Link Posted: 4/21/2017 7:34:29 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Are Uzis blow-back?
View Quote
Yes, the Uzi is a blow back design.  The bolt extends over the first portion of the barrel in order to increase the weight of the bolt to reduce the bolt velocity and cyclic rate, while keeping the overall length reasonably short.  That's also why an Uzi weighs about 8 pounds empty.  An Uzi carbine with a 32 round magazine and a sling will weigh in at around 11 pounds - about the same as the Thompson. SMG.

There's a sweet spot in Uzi load development as you need enough recoil energy to fully cycle the bolt.  If the velocity is a bit too low, the bolt will short cycle and fail to feed the next round properly.  

A top cover with inadequate clearance aggravates the problem as it increases the drag on the bolt, and can further narrow the window of acceptable loads.

If you've got an Uzi carbine and want to shoot plated bullets, you'll need heavy plated bullets as a load strong enough for reliable cycling of the bolt will generally result in a 124 gr bullet exceeding 1250 fps in the 16" barrel and accuracy goes downhill as the jackets start to separate.  Personally, I prefer 147 gr heavy plated bullets and velocities right around 1050 fps.
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