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Posted: 3/17/2015 8:50:51 PM EDT
[#1]
I wonder if you could mount a rail on the heat shield. Easiest solution, can't get any hotter than an ultimak on an AK right?
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Posted: 3/17/2015 10:49:24 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wonder if you could mount a rail on the heat shield. Easiest solution, can't get any hotter than an ultimak on an AK right? Yeah, that's exactly one of the solutions I was looking for. The top row of holes doesn't quite line up at 12 o'clock, but it would be close enough, and I could just cant the scope back to 90 degrees vertical by twisting it just a few degrees in the mount. Many common rail sections would line up with the barrel shroud's holes well. I even took a few chunks of Midwest Industries rail that works with their free-float AR fore-ends, and the screws line up with the holes and the curvature for the underside is a very close fit. I'm looking for advice for some sort of nut or washer hardware that would hold it in place from the inside. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 12:53:28 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeah, that's exactly one of the solutions I was looking for. The top row of holes doesn't quite line up at 12 o'clock, but it would be close enough, and I could just cant the scope back to 90 degrees vertical by twisting it just a few degrees in the mount. Many common rail sections would line up with the barrel shroud's holes well. I even took a few chunks of Midwest Industries rail that works with their free-float AR fore-ends, and the screws line up with the holes and the curvature for the underside is a very close fit. I'm looking for advice for some sort of nut or washer hardware that would hold it in place from the inside. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I wonder if you could mount a rail on the heat shield. Easiest solution, can't get any hotter than an ultimak on an AK right? Yeah, that's exactly one of the solutions I was looking for. The top row of holes doesn't quite line up at 12 o'clock, but it would be close enough, and I could just cant the scope back to 90 degrees vertical by twisting it just a few degrees in the mount. Many common rail sections would line up with the barrel shroud's holes well. I even took a few chunks of Midwest Industries rail that works with their free-float AR fore-ends, and the screws line up with the holes and the curvature for the underside is a very close fit. I'm looking for advice for some sort of nut or washer hardware that would hold it in place from the inside. Anyway you can rig an offset mount to hit 12? |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 11:40:40 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyway you can rig an offset mount to hit 12? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I wonder if you could mount a rail on the heat shield. Easiest solution, can't get any hotter than an ultimak on an AK right? Yeah, that's exactly one of the solutions I was looking for. The top row of holes doesn't quite line up at 12 o'clock, but it would be close enough, and I could just cant the scope back to 90 degrees vertical by twisting it just a few degrees in the mount. Many common rail sections would line up with the barrel shroud's holes well. I even took a few chunks of Midwest Industries rail that works with their free-float AR fore-ends, and the screws line up with the holes and the curvature for the underside is a very close fit. I'm looking for advice for some sort of nut or washer hardware that would hold it in place from the inside. Anyway you can rig an offset mount to hit 12? The vent-holes are wide enough it might be close, from the user's POV, the topmost row of holes is only just a smidge off of center, maybe the right edge of that row of holes is on center. I think it's close enough that any kind of 3-gun type 45deg offsets and a combination of rails and adapters would be more bulk than is worth it. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 3:27:31 PM EDT
[#5]
try this option
http://www.m60joe.com/ |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 12:04:09 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
try this option http://www.m60joe.com/ That's genius. But I'm looking for a Picatinny rail, and not a micro reflex. |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 9:41:14 PM EDT
[#7]
can you just drill and tap some holes into the the heat shield or tube and use hex screws to secure the rail?
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Posted: 3/23/2015 10:07:08 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
can you just drill and tap some holes into the the heat shield or tube and use hex screws to secure the rail? Yes, I could, but I'd prefer not to permanently drill holes into the receiver tube if I could avoid it. So I was just fishing for solutions if anyone else had done it with some kind of specific fasteners, some sort of nut on the inside, because the holes in the vent tube seem to line up with standard pieces of rail for common AR 15 fore-ends. I'll probably just have to experiment. |
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Posted: 3/24/2015 4:57:47 PM EDT
[#9]
Century arms at one time was making a picatinny rail for the Wiselite Sterlings. You might check with them to see if they still have it available. P/N was PASTR006.
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Posted: 3/24/2015 5:53:04 PM EDT
[#10]
Thanks! However I searched Century's site and it looks as if they're long gone.
However, searching that part number got me to an archived UZITalk thread from 2011, which has yet another mention ow the Midwest Industries rails for their free-float AR fore-ends will fit. And the screw holes will line up with the vent openings in the Sterling's shroud. I just need to figure out what kind of nuts will work I guess. |
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Posted: 5/31/2015 7:28:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Op, I mounted a rail to mine. The sights were so far off I could never figure out where the bullets were going. I did drill holes in the heat shield section. I drilled two 4-40 sized holes and tapped the metal. Then used a 4-40 kep nut as a lock nut to keep the screws from unscrewing. I also put loctite on the screws. It's been holding up for 2 years now.
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Posted: 6/1/2015 1:31:02 PM EDT
[#12]
Interesting you should post that. I just went ahead last night and tried mounting a chunk of Midwest Industries rail since the holes lined up with the barrel shroud. I got some M5 .08 pan head screws, and matching toothed locking nuts. And then I added a M5 small diameter "fender washer" that was still bigger , and then a smaller M5 aluminum washer so the locking nut's teeth had something a bit softer to get a good bite into.
I carefully put everything in with tweezers, and then torqued down on the screw so the nut would pull the washer tight and bend it to match the inside profile of the barrel shroud. So far it's holding tight and I can't get it to move with as much hand pressure as I can apply. I'll see if it holds up under recoil. |
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Posted: 6/1/2015 5:57:51 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Interesting you should post that. I just went ahead last night and tried mounting a chunk of Midwest Industries rail since the holes lined up with the barrel shroud. I got some M5 .08 pan head screws, and matching toothed locking nuts. And then I added a M5 small diameter "fender washer" that was still bigger , and then a smaller M5 aluminum washer so the locking nut's teeth had something a bit softer to get a good bite into. I carefully put everything in with tweezers, and then torqued down on the screw so the nut would pull the washer tight and bend it to match the inside profile of the barrel shroud. So far it's holding tight and I can't get it to move with as much hand pressure as I can apply. I'll see if it holds up under recoil. Don't forget to take pics :) |
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Posted: 6/26/2015 11:43:09 PM EDT
[#14]
This is a factory original Sterling Mk. VI, not a Wiselite clone. If you look closely you can see there are two lugs on the top of the tube which have threaded holes. Just below the Sterling branded scope you can see the adapter rail that was supplied; a more modern rail wouldn't be hard to substitute.
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