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Posted: 9/23/2016 2:30:12 PM EDT
I just bought a house and downstairs it has the perfect gun closet. Lit, HVAC vent, and decent sized. It shares a wall with the utility room and the brick exterior. Instead of a safe inside, Im just going to buy a steel framed, steel door and use a keypad/keyed lock on it. What
Should I look at for locks that fill a standard knob opening?
Link Posted: 9/23/2016 2:38:44 PM EDT
[#1]
medco
Link Posted: 9/23/2016 3:38:05 PM EDT
[#3]
Another vote for Medco.  

But what stops a thief from busting through the drywall in your utility room, OP?
Link Posted: 9/23/2016 4:27:19 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History


Lol, not just no, but fuck no. No budget for it. Even a $500 steel door will hurt bad enough.
Link Posted: 9/23/2016 4:29:30 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Another vote for Medco.  

But what stops a thief from busting through the drywall in your utility room, OP?
View Quote


Well if he wants to move the water heater and air handler, then more power to him. There are flaws in the plan for sure, but he's gonna make more noise and spend more time with the steel door or busting through a wall than dragging what little POS safe I can afford with my budget.
Link Posted: 9/23/2016 5:02:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Here is one of my worksheets from when I secured our bedroom...The lock I went with was called an Assa Abloy Protec 2 and its about as good as they get for a deadbolt. Ask a locksmith and they will confirm it's never been picked or bumped. Key Control is also stellar.

.I know it's not electronic but I thought I would share it with you as I was going to go electronic as well. I just couldn't pull the trigger because the security wasn't there  so I went with a manual deadbolt.  Hope that helps..




Link Posted: 9/23/2016 6:19:32 PM EDT
[#7]
Abloy Protec2. Get the one that locks from both sides and you can do your whole house keyed alike. Definitely spendy though.
Link Posted: 9/24/2016 8:19:03 AM EDT
[#8]
I use the Schlage keypad deadbolts

I'm not sure of any keypad type locks that are keyed on the backside.
There are more high security locks, but your average thief isn't going to pick the lock.

Don't think about them dragging the safe through the drywall, think about them punching a hold in the drywall next to the door and then reaching in and opening it from the inside.  Only need a hole big enough to put your arm in.
Link Posted: 9/24/2016 8:27:45 AM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I use the Schlage keypad deadbolts

I'm not sure of any keypad type locks that are keyed on the backside.
There are more high security locks, but your average thief isn't going to pick the lock.

Don't think about them dragging the safe through the drywall, think about them punching a hold in the drywall next to the door and then reaching in and opening it from the inside.  Only need a hole big enough to put your arm in.
View Quote


The point of the door is that there will be no safe.
Link Posted: 9/25/2016 8:09:45 AM EDT
[#10]
EDIT: Quotes got really messed up.  Reposted below.
Link Posted: 9/25/2016 8:20:05 AM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Well if he wants to move the water heater and air handler, then more power to him. There are flaws in the plan for sure, but he's gonna make more noise and spend more time with the steel door or busting through a wall than dragging what little POS safe I can afford with my budget.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Another vote for Medco.  

But what stops a thief from busting through the drywall in your utility room, OP?


Well if he wants to move the water heater and air handler, then more power to him. There are flaws in the plan for sure, but he's gonna make more noise and spend more time with the steel door or busting through a wall than dragging what little POS safe I can afford with my budget.




Quoted:
Quoted:
I use the Schlage keypad deadbolts

I'm not sure of any keypad type locks that are keyed on the backside.
There are more high security locks, but your average thief isn't going to pick the lock.

Don't think about them dragging the safe through the drywall, think about them punching a hold in the drywall next to the door and then reaching in and opening it from the inside.  Only need a hole big enough to put your arm in.


The point of the door is that there will be no safe.



The first part makes it sound like you have "a little POS safe".  I realize now what you meant is that rather than buying a safe you will spend that money on a steel door.

I still think your drywall is the weak link.
I prefer the keypad type deadbolts so you don't have to worry about having your key.  The ones I linked come with the 3" screws to really anchor it in the frame to make it hard to kick in.  I don't think realistically a burglar is going to pick the lock.
Link Posted: 9/25/2016 8:27:00 AM EDT
[#12]
Without re-enforcing the wall, I would skip on a stupid high-end deadbolt like the Abloy/Medeco. Use some of the coin you save and at least get a door jamb kit. Your average crook isn't going to be picking locks, he's going to be kicking doors. Sheets of expanded metal are pretty cheap and not that hard to hang on the wall. That is what I did when I made my "armory" room.
Link Posted: 9/25/2016 11:45:47 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Without re-enforcing the wall, I would skip on a stupid high-end deadbolt like the Abloy/Medeco. Use some of the coin you save and at least get a door jamb kit. Your average crook isn't going to be picking locks, he's going to be kicking doors. Sheets of expanded metal are pretty cheap and not that hard to hang on the wall. That is what I did when I made my "armory" room.
View Quote


I can dig the expanded metal trick. There's about 18" on either side of the door that I would need to re-enforce, so that's easy.
Link Posted: 9/26/2016 2:04:12 AM EDT
[#14]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I can dig the expanded metal trick. There's about 18" on either side of the door that I would need to re-enforce, so that's easy.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Quoted:

Without re-enforcing the wall, I would skip on a stupid high-end deadbolt like the Abloy/Medeco. Use some of the coin you save and at least get a door jamb kit. Your average crook isn't going to be picking locks, he's going to be kicking doors. Sheets of expanded metal are pretty cheap and not that hard to hang on the wall. That is what I did when I made my "armory" room.




I can dig the expanded metal trick. There's about 18" on either side of the door that I would need to re-enforce, so that's easy.




 
I had a thread when I did my build. I ended up removing an existing wall, moving it forward about 4'. I doubled up on studs at the door frame, hung expanded metal, then sheetrock. Bought your typical steel security door from Lowes. Threw a commercial door handle and a Medeco deadbolt along with a Armor Concepts door jamb kit. Its solid! Sure it won't hold up to a demo saw, but a crook would be likely to break his foot trying to kick it in. I hurt myself giving it a good test kick post construction.
Link Posted: 9/26/2016 12:54:44 PM EDT
[#15]
I'm a commercial locksmith. I would recommend a decent commercial grade deadbolt and handle. Not found at menards/ lowes. You'll have to go to an actual door/ lock business to get one.
But like someone else said basic these won't be picking your lock he will be kicking it in etc.  oh and no matter what anyone says any lock can be picked bumped and or drilled it's just a matter of time
Link Posted: 9/28/2016 2:53:34 AM EDT
[#16]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I'm a commercial locksmith. I would recommend a decent commercial grade deadbolt and handle. Not found at menards/ lowes. You'll have to go to an actual door/ lock business to get one.

But like someone else said basic these won't be picking your lock he will be kicking it in etc.  oh and no matter what anyone says any lock can be picked bumped and or drilled it's just a matter of time
View Quote




 
Pay attention when buying honest commercial door handles and locks. The latch spacing is different than residential. I bought one that wouldn't even adjust by accident and had to return it.
Link Posted: 9/28/2016 10:23:53 AM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'm a commercial locksmith. I would recommend a decent commercial grade deadbolt and handle. Not found at menards/ lowes. You'll have to go to an actual door/ lock business to get one.
But like someone else said basic these won't be picking your lock he will be kicking it in etc.  oh and no matter what anyone says any lock can be picked bumped and or drilled it's just a matter of time
View Quote


Well, If the OP puts a steel door in a steel frame, not many people are going to be kicking it in..Not very easily at least.. Oh, just to satisfy me curiosity, can you provide me a link where someone has ever successfully picked or bumped a Assa Abloy Protec 2? I know they can pick/bump medico but I have never seen or heard about a successful attempt on the Assa. Now, Drilling is whole different story but still.. The protect 2 is going to fight much harder than most.
Link Posted: 9/29/2016 7:48:09 AM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Well, If the OP puts a steel door in a steel frame, not many people are going to be kicking it in..Not very easily at least.. Oh, just to satisfy me curiosity, can you provide me a link where someone has ever successfully picked or bumped a Assa Abloy Protec 2? I know they can pick/bump medico but I have never seen or heard about a successful attempt on the Assa. Now, Drilling is whole different story but still.. The protect 2 is going to fight much harder than most.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm a commercial locksmith. I would recommend a decent commercial grade deadbolt and handle. Not found at menards/ lowes. You'll have to go to an actual door/ lock business to get one.
But like someone else said basic these won't be picking your lock he will be kicking it in etc.  oh and no matter what anyone says any lock can be picked bumped and or drilled it's just a matter of time


Well, If the OP puts a steel door in a steel frame, not many people are going to be kicking it in..Not very easily at least.. Oh, just to satisfy me curiosity, can you provide me a link where someone has ever successfully picked or bumped a Assa Abloy Protec 2? I know they can pick/bump medico but I have never seen or heard about a successful attempt on the Assa. Now, Drilling is whole different story but still.. The protect 2 is going to fight much harder than most.


I agree! I don't have a link but I have always been told in various classes and in my apprenticeship that no lock is 100% burglar proof.  Now that means maybe a lock is pick/bump proof but with the right equipment and enough time a pro could drill a drill proof lock.  But the odds of that happening are slim! I was just stating that there is going to be a way around or through any lock.  The best you can get as far as I know is the Medco or protec 2 like mentioned.
  I'm at work so I can't share the link but here is screen shot of the tool that can drill the protec 2.

Link Posted: 9/29/2016 4:01:49 PM EDT
[#19]
All the post above;

It is Medeco, not Medco.

Medeco or Assa/Abloy are both good locks (same company now - Medeco is a subsidiary of the Swedish Assa Abloy Group).

Link Posted: 9/29/2016 4:08:57 PM EDT
[#20]
I had a room built in the basement, under the sun room that protrudes from the house.

It's cement on all 4 sides, 20 x 20 ft, with a standard steel door and lock.

I then framed in an exercise room and will obscure the entry with a movable book case.

It's still under construction, as I'm delayed by a knee replacement.

Good enough for my needs.
Link Posted: 10/4/2016 11:11:33 PM EDT
[#21]
I am considering building a gun room in my basement. I will use steel studs, expanded metal under the drywall and a steel door.

I have two issue to overcome.

1. I am not sure what to do about the ceiling. Just leave it alone or try and secure it from a determined thief with a chainsaw cutting the floor above?

2. I have a small basement window in the area where I want to build it. I will frost the glass to prevent viewing but not sure how to prevent a thief from crawling in and out.

There is one last issue. Mrs. Edgephoto may not like my plan.
Link Posted: 10/5/2016 3:01:50 PM EDT
[#22]
You might want to slap some 3/4" plywood around the door too. I remember a story that Jerry Seinfeld told about his New York city apartment. He had one of those extra secure steel doors with 5 dead bolts plus the handle on one side. He came home from a long comedy tour only to find that someone broke in and stole almost everything he had. They dug a 7' hole in the wall next to the door with a hatchet. 1/2" Drywall and 2x4's didn't put up much of a fight.
Link Posted: 10/7/2016 2:51:58 PM EDT
[#23]
Check out bosianbill on youtube.  He will change your mind about what makes a good lock.  And a waring, he really hates Masterlock.
Link Posted: 10/17/2016 5:45:48 AM EDT
[#24]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I am considering building a gun room in my basement. I will use steel studs, expanded metal under the drywall and a steel door.



I have two issue to overcome.



1. I am not sure what to do about the ceiling. Just leave it alone or try and secure it from a determined thief with a chainsaw cutting the floor above?



2. I have a small basement window in the area where I want to build it. I will frost the glass to prevent viewing but not sure how to prevent a thief from crawling in and out.



There is one last issue. Mrs. Edgephoto may not like my plan.
View Quote




 
I had a similar thought when I did my room. Climb in the attic and its a quick stomp to get in through the ceiling. I decided to simply add a contact sensor on the attic access door. Beyond that, the what-ifs start getting pretty out there. I mean, in my case, it would mean a crook would have got through the fencing/gates, passed in front of several cameras, managed to not set off the alarm to gain access to the house, then climb his ass into the attic to gain access through the ceiling. Then the crook would have to figure out how to get out of the room since the door is double-keyed. If someone is that determined, Ill give the cops the footage and just file an insurance claim.
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