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USA
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Posted: 2/6/2015 3:07:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: titan7]
[#1]
Feel so much better about sucking it up and purchasing a Amsec rf6528. Peace of mind is priceless.
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PA, USA
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Posted: 2/6/2015 12:55:27 PM EDT
[#2]
Thank you! It is really amazing to have actual test data like this on a product.
TSG, did you have much involvement with the SF series development? I'm sure the higher end line of products allow you to incorporate better design features, but I would expect other sets of challenges to get acceptable performance out of the less expensive line of products. |
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Posted: 2/6/2015 2:10:50 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By snyder76:
TSG, did you have much involvement with the SF series development? I'm sure the higher end line of products allow you to incorporate better design features, but I would expect other sets of challenges to get acceptable performance out of the less expensive line of products. Of course I was. R&D and product development are some of my primary responsibilities. We have an Engineering team, and I don't always do the nitty-gritty stuff, but I am usually involved in any new product design or refinement. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 2/6/2015 7:34:20 PM EDT
[#4]
TSG,
This may have already been asked, but I don't recall seeing it...What safe do you have personally and what lock is on it? |
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Posted: 2/7/2015 12:36:18 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By andrew1182:
TSG, This may have already been asked, but I don't recall seeing it...What safe do you have personally and what lock is on it? I have a very special safe. We made a prototype for the TL-30 Composite RF Line that was all dressed up, and I snagged it when we were done figuring out what the production model might look like. It's all gloss black with all gold plated hardware, a gold plated ESL10XL, and gold pin-striping. The interior is all camel color swede leather, with accent stitching and mirrors on the door and the back wall. It's quite nice looking... and no, I do not post pictures of my safe or it's contents. Sorry. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/7/2015 1:48:04 AM EDT
[#6]
I must be mistaken. I thought you had posted a picture of it awhile back.
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WA, USA
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Posted: 2/7/2015 5:16:12 AM EDT
[#7]
any suggestions how to fix a PDO that is coming loose from the door?
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KY, USA
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Posted: 2/7/2015 8:51:05 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
I have a very special safe. We made a prototype for the TL-30 Composite RF Line that was all dressed up, and I snagged it when we were done figuring out what the production model might look like. It's all gloss black with all gold plated hardware, a gold plated ESL10XL, and gold pin-striping. The interior is all camel color swede leather, with accent stitching and mirrors on the door and the back wall. It's quite nice looking... and no, I do not post pictures of my safe or it's contents. Sorry. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Originally Posted By andrew1182:
TSG, This may have already been asked, but I don't recall seeing it...What safe do you have personally and what lock is on it? I have a very special safe. We made a prototype for the TL-30 Composite RF Line that was all dressed up, and I snagged it when we were done figuring out what the production model might look like. It's all gloss black with all gold plated hardware, a gold plated ESL10XL, and gold pin-striping. The interior is all camel color swede leather, with accent stitching and mirrors on the door and the back wall. It's quite nice looking... and no, I do not post pictures of my safe or it's contents. Sorry. So you don't keep that AR15 with the ACOG in your safe  ? I kid, I kid.
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NY, USA
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Posted: 2/9/2015 3:30:34 AM EDT
[#9]
TSG, I have a standard S&G lock on my safe and am considering switching to an E-lock.
I was looking at the amsec line and from what you have said here, it seems to be the best option out there. i have two questions for you, 1) i have no need for multi-combo capability so the ESL20XL is not needed. So whats the differences between the ESL10XL and the ESL5 and the ESL15? Which do you find to be the most reliable? 2) Is retro fitting to my safe something that I could do myself? Or does it require specialized tools? I would say I have a well above average mechanical ability... Looking at the S&G lock thats on there now, it doesnt look to difficult to remove. And I have changed the combo on it myself using the change key that graffunder supplied. Thanks in advance for any insight to the locks. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/11/2015 1:54:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Garand1911]
[#10]
Wheeeew!!! finally finished all 73 pages
Quite an education. TSG -- can you talk about the FV line of safes? They are imported? from china? Is it just the shell that is imported and you put on the door, lock and paint? or is the whole thing imported? is there a QC inspection before they go out to customers? how well do they survive the burglary and fire testing? I was thinking getting an NF series safe, but would like something as big as BF7240, how come the NFs don't come bigger? Is it possible to get an NF custom built bigger? How would I go about doing that? About how much more would the cost be ? Thanks |
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Posted: 2/13/2015 9:43:53 PM EDT
[#11]
TheSafeGuy (or a1abdj or anyone knowledgeable),
I've really enjoyed and appreciated the expertise you've shared on the forum. I'm looking at a used TL-30 safe being sold by a local locksmith / vault company. The sales guy in the store doesn't know much about it, and the owner wasn't around. Its a heavy steel safe, no fire protection as far as I can tell but I'm OK with that. Finish is pretty worn but I'm OK with that too. Manufacturer is Major. It's about 48" tall, 24" wide, 30" deep with about 3" thick walls. Don't have a weight. UL tag on the front says "Underwriters Laboratories listed Tool Resistant Safe TL-30 Burglary". Inside view of the lock has a plate that says "Group 2 R6700 Series Sargent Greenleaf Nicholasville KY USA". Inside is empty, except for a low shelf 10" off the bottom with a dual-key secured lockbox under it. I'd greatly appreciate anything you can tell me about it, what you think would be a fair price, or anything else I should be aware of. They can service the lock, set the combo for me, and deliver/place it. Thanks. Pictures: 
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Posted: 2/14/2015 11:56:58 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NYresq1:1) i have no need for multi-combo capability so the ESL20XL is not needed. So whats the differences between the ESL10XL and the ESL5 and the ESL15? Which do you find to be the most reliable? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NYresq1:1) i have no need for multi-combo capability so the ESL20XL is not needed. So whats the differences between the ESL10XL and the ESL5 and the ESL15? Which do you find to be the most reliable? The ESL10XL is your basic single user lock, with a long history and a solid reputation for reliability. The ESL20XL is has an extended electronic feature list, which really has no bearing on reliability, they are merely advanced programming features. The ESL5 and ESL15 are lower cost alternatives, with a molded plastic keypad (as opposed to a dies-cast metal keypad on ESL10XL and ESL20XL). The lock is different, but reliability is not compromised, just a different mechanical design that requires less power and fewer parts. The ESl15 is a low-cost alternate to the ESL20, with similar electronic features like Time Delay and Multiple Users. 2) Is retro fitting to my safe something that I could do myself? Or does it require specialized tools? I would say I have a well above average mechanical ability...
Looking at the S&G lock that's on there now, it doesn't look to difficult to remove. And I have changed the combo on it myself using the change key that graffunder supplied. The change to an e-lock is pretty straightforward, and does not present a number of moderately complex issues that mechanical combo locks present. As long as you take the proper precautions, and follow the installation instructions to the letter, you can make the change-out without issues. Just keep the door locked open during the retrofit, and test the crap out of it before you lock it up, you should be GTG. |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 2/14/2015 7:05:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: abrace]
[#13]
Quote HistoryThe ESL5 and ESL15 are lower cost alternatives, with a molded plastic keypad (as opposed to a dies-cast metal keypad on ESL10XL and ESL20XL). The lock is different, but reliability is not compromised, just a different mechanical design that requires less power and fewer parts. The ESl15 is a low-cost alternate to the ESL20, with similar electronic features like Time Delay and Multiple Users. TSG, The ESL5 is a swingbolt, right? Out of curiosity, is the ESL5 solenoid or motor based blocking? ---Aaron |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 2/14/2015 7:13:54 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gasdoc09:
I'd greatly appreciate anything you can tell me about it, what you think would be a fair price, or anything else I should be aware of. They can service the lock, set the combo for me, and deliver/place it. Thanks. Nice looking safe. Cut some plywood shelves, make a gun rack, and throw some automotive carpet in there and it would make a nice gun safe. The commercial safes aren't sexy, but you can get a lot more for your buck. TSG and a1abj I am sure will have comments on it. My only one is that I prefer to see a 6600 or other Group2M lock on a TL15+ safe. It isn't necessary, but I think it is just a good idea. ---Aaron |
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Posted: 2/14/2015 11:48:16 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gasdoc09:
I'm looking at a used TL-30 safe being sold by a local locksmith / vault company. The sales guy in the store doesn't know much about it, and the owner wasn't around. Its a heavy steel safe, no fire protection as far as I can tell but I'm OK with that. Finish is pretty worn but I'm OK with that too. Manufacturer is Major. It's about 48" tall, 24" wide, 30" deep with about 3" thick walls. Don't have a weight. UL tag on the front says "Underwriters Laboratories listed Tool Resistant Safe TL-30 Burglary". Inside view of the lock has a plate that says "Group 2 R6700 Series Sargent Greenleaf Nicholasville KY USA". Inside is empty, except for a low shelf 10" off the bottom with a dual-key secured lockbox under it. I'd greatly appreciate anything you can tell me about it, what you think would be a fair price, or anything else I should be aware of. They can service the lock, set the combo for me, and deliver/place it. Thanks. That's an older Major Safe McDonald's unit. The locker is the Armored Car compartment, Built in the mid 80's I think. Good reliable beast of a safe. As for value, I have no clue what used safe sell for today. Maybe someone else can chime in. |
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Posted: 2/15/2015 12:31:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Garand1911:
TSG -- can you talk about the FV line of safes? They are imported? from china? Is it just the shell that is imported and you put on the door, lock and paint? or is the whole thing imported? is there a QC inspection before they go out to customers? how well do they survive the burglary and fire testing? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Garand1911:
TSG -- can you talk about the FV line of safes? They are imported? from china? Is it just the shell that is imported and you put on the door, lock and paint? or is the whole thing imported? is there a QC inspection before they go out to customers? how well do they survive the burglary and fire testing? The FV line is an import. A 45 minute ETL rated safe, it' a medium level safe in the line. We have a rigorous QC program, where we have a third party inspection service that visits the manufacturing site when every load is ready to ship. They go thru a long checklist and sample the load, and walk the line at assembly time. There are no other importers that do this, like we do. It's expensive, and our vendors hate it, but it keeps them honest. The FV line is our own customized version of that model of safe, with numerous improvements that others don't offer. The Fv make look like any other safe in it's class, but it is better in many small ways. Better door seals, better hardplate, better relocker setup, heavier linkages, sealed drywall panels, and a lot of other tweaks that allow it to achieve a certifiable rating. I was thinking getting an NF series safe, but would like something as big as BF7240, how come the NFs don't come bigger?
Is it possible to get an NF custom built bigger? How would I go about doing that? About how much more would the cost be (EDIT) The NF series is the replacement for last year's SF line. With a better 90 minute fire rating, as well as many other upgrades, this is the best import safe we offer. We bring in primered unassembled sizes in this line so we can provide the wide array of textured and high-gloss automotive finishes we offer. |
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Posted: 2/15/2015 12:41:24 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By abrace:
The ESL5 is a swingbolt, right? Out of curiosity, is the ESL5 solenoid or motor based blocking? ---Aaron Yes, the ESL5 is a swingbolt, with a small solenoid blocking the rotating action, and a spring loaded anti-bound mechanism to prevent bouncing. |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 2/15/2015 11:02:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: abrace]
[#18]
Quote HistoryYes, the ESL5 is a swingbolt, with a small solenoid blocking the rotating action, and a spring loaded anti-bound mechanism to prevent bouncing. Interesting. I know a lot of manufacturers went to motor blocking to satisfy the newer (not so new anymore I suppose) VdS requirements for protection against bounce attacks. Does your mechanism provide the same level of security? I see your site still lists the ESL5 as UL Type-1 pending. Is the holdup just waiting on a testing slot from UL, or is this just the standard timeframe? Any chance it won't pass and you will have to make some design tweaks? ---Aaron |
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Posted: 2/15/2015 11:53:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By abrace:
Interesting. I know a lot of manufacturers went to motor blocking to satisfy the newer (not so new anymore I suppose) VdS requirements for protection against bounce attacks. Does your mechanism provide the same level of security? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By abrace:
Interesting. I know a lot of manufacturers went to motor blocking to satisfy the newer (not so new anymore I suppose) VdS requirements for protection against bounce attacks. Does your mechanism provide the same level of security? The European market is not on our radar, so the VdS has not been a target listing for our products. The motor drive restriction is a little ambiguous. There are several solenoid style locks that still bear the VdS ratings, so I don't think that is necessarily a requirement, but it's been a while since I have read the standards. There are multiple levels in that standard, so maybe that constraint is only at some higher level. A proper design in a solenoid driven system can be just as bounce resistant as a motor drive. The ESL5 lock has a very effective anti-bounce mechanism, and I have no problem claiming it's just as good, or better, than any motor drive system. Motor drives have a host of secondary challenges that lead to service issues, and some that use the approach have suffered high failure rates because of poor engineering practices. The simplicity, longevity and economics of a solenoid presents a lot of advantages. No brushes or bearings to wear, no drive mechanism to bind and lubricate, less complex electronic controls, and many times the service life are just a few. I see your site still lists the ESL5 as UL Type-1 pending. Is the holdup just waiting on a testing slot from UL, or is this just the standard time frame? Any chance it won't pass and you will have to make some design tweaks? Getting thru the new UL Type 1 UL 2058 testing is a serious challenge. The ESL5 is done, and we expect the acceptance doc's will come in a few weeks. The newest test program is brutal. They blow thru 150 locks in the electronic compromise testing, and as usual, they have raised the bar considerably. We did have to make a few circuit tweaks and go back a second time. They don't accept hand-made samples for testing, you have to provide production samples. So, you can imagine that a design change takes a long time to roll into a production run. None of the failure issues would ever be experienced in the field, because nobody is going to come to attack a lock with $20,000 worth of high voltage, high power test equipment that weighs over 300 pounds like what is used in the lab in Northbrook. A lot of this testing is a matter of luck. When you slam a microprocessor with this kind of stuff, the failure modes are completely unpredictable. Some simple products pass, while others with extraordinary protection systems fail. It's almost done, but it has been a frustrating road. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/15/2015 8:39:33 PM EDT
[#20]
Hi TSG,
I have a question about using an AMSEC lock as a replacement for a SecureRAM ECSL-0601a on a newly acquired super small Gary TL-15 plate safe I intend to use as a bedside pistol box. I don't know the history of the lock although it appears to be only 3-years old. I would prefer to make use of a brand new ESL 5 or ESL 10. This model of lock is a swing bolt design. While reading the AMSEC website I can see that the ESL-5 comes as a swing bolt, but I could not find a swing bolt for the ESL 10. Does the ESL 10 come in a swing bolt configuration and if not is it ever possible to use a dead bolt style lock in place of a swing bolt style lock. Thanks |
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Posted: 2/15/2015 9:20:54 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guggep:
Hi TSG, I have a question about using an AMSEC lock as a replacement for a SecureRAM ECSL-0601a on a newly acquired super small Gary TL-15 plate safe I intend to use as a bedside pistol box. I don't know the history of the lock although it appears to be only 3-years old. I would prefer to make use of a brand new ESL 5 or ESL 10. This model of lock is a swing bolt design. While reading the AMSEC website I can see that the ESL-5 comes as a swing bolt, but I could not find a swing bolt for the ESL 10. Does the ESL 10 come in a swing bolt configuration and if not is it ever possible to use a dead bolt style lock in place of a swing bolt style lock The ESL10XL only comes in a rectangular-bolt style. The swing-bolt and rect. bolt are interchangeable, and there should be no issues with going from a Swingbolt back to a rect. bolt lock. |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 2/17/2015 9:29:22 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistorySome simple products pass, while others with extraordinary protection systems fail. It's almost done, but it has been a frustrating road. Thanks TSG, great writeup. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 2/22/2015 3:39:33 PM EDT
[#23]
Hello TheSafeGuy,
Long time reader - 1st time poster. I recently purchased a Vector Safe (made from Israel I guess?). I was all it is a UL rated TL-30 composite safe, model 5520 @ ~ 2,500lbs. Empire safe has a spec sheet here: http://www.empiresafe.com/uploads/0000/0116/DC_2503045.pdf I was all excited until I read on Empire's website that Megasafes imported safes with fake UL (or UL Canadian?) labels and that they in reality are not anywhere near their rated strength/resistance. The reason this concerns me is because on Empires spec sheet on the Vector Safe it says Megasafe imported these Vectors too. Are they knock-offs, so to speak? Do they past mustard? Was it a real UL rated TL-30 Safe? Is it a pig-skin purse or pure-suede? I can't post pictures , but this is the same safe (5520 model), on Lacka's website: http://www.lackasafe.com/products/used-safes-specials/used-jewelers-5520-vector-tl30-high-security-safe I will post pictures of my safe as soon as possible, including the UL tag. I'm guessing its Group 1 spy-proof dial doesn't mean much about whether the body and construction of the safe are good. Thanks for any feedback or insight!! |
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Posted: 2/22/2015 6:21:11 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sonysdds69:I recently purchased a Vector Safe (made from Israel I guess?). I was all it is a UL rated TL-30 composite safe, model 5520 @ ~ 2,500lbs. Empire safe has a spec sheet here: http://www.empiresafe.com/uploads/0000/0116/DC_2503045.pdf
I was all excited until I read on Empire's website that Megasafes imported safes with fake UL (or UL Canadian?) labels and that they in reality are not anywhere near their rated strength/resistance. The reason this concerns me is because on Empires spec sheet on the Vector Safe it says Megasafe imported these Vectors too. Are they knock-offs, so to speak? Do they past mustard? Was it a real UL rated TL-30 Safe? Is it a pig-skin purse or pure-suede? I can't post pictures , but this is the same safe (5520 model), on Lacka's website: http://www.lackasafe.com/products/used-safes-specials/used-jewelers-5520-vector-tl30-high-security-safe. This is a delicate matter. I have to stay on the sidelines for a discussion of this nature. There are several manufacturers that have played a ugly game of deception and deceit in the high-end safe market. There has been an ongoing feud between a couple of import distributors in the north-east. They go at it like the Hatfields and McCoys, and make accusations of all sorts. They, and others like them, have sought dirt-cheap safe prices internationally, and have found some real dishonest manufacturers along the way. I don't know a lot about specific models, but there are definitely some safes loose in the market that don't qualify for the labels they bear. I have seen some first-hand, where we acquired competitive safes and cut them open. Safes that should have had 4 inches of aluminum casting, and there were large areas where the aluminum was less than 1/2 inch think. In another case, a composite door was stuffed with wood instead of ultra-high strength concrete. Buyer beware in offshore high security safes, you never know what you might get. |
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DE, USA
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Posted: 2/22/2015 8:46:56 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sonysdds69:
I recently purchased a Vector Safe (made from Israel I guess?). I was all it is a UL rated TL-30 composite safe, model 5520 @ ~ 2,500lbs. Empire safe has a spec sheet here: http://www.empiresafe.com/uploads/0000/0116/DC_2503045.pdf I was all excited until I read on Empire's website that Megasafes imported safes with fake UL (or UL Canadian?) labels and that they in reality are not anywhere near their rated strength/resistance. The reason this concerns me is because on Empires spec sheet on the Vector Safe it says Megasafe imported these Vectors too. Are they knock-offs, so to speak? Do they past mustard? Was it a real UL rated TL-30 Safe? Is it a pig-skin purse or pure-suede? I can't post pictures , but this is the same safe (5520 model), on Lacka's website: http://www.lackasafe.com/products/used-safes-specials/used-jewelers-5520-vector-tl30-high-security-safe FWIW, I was looking at a Vector a few months ago. Here's the thread: http://209.251.48.101/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=46&t=432391 On a different subject, I have a question for Safeguy. Does UL require you to periodically re-test safes for fire ratings? Or is the re-test cycle only for burglary ratings? Thanks. |
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Posted: 2/22/2015 9:32:37 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 123456abcdef: Does UL require you to periodically re-test safes for fire ratings? Or is the re-test cycle only for burglary ratings? Thanks.
The re-test program has only been implemented for burglary safe ratings, and not for firesafes or RSC Safes. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/25/2015 6:42:29 PM EDT
[#27]
My BF7240 HD finally showed up today. Really nice safe but I am disappointed in the led lighting. Left strip goes 3/4 way up and the right strip only 1/2 way. For the price I expected more.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 7:15:11 PM EDT
[#28]
The lighting is sufficient. I'm glad it isn't a blinding level of light cause a lot of the time, I am accessing the safe in the dark with family members sleeping in the room. Don't need that kind of disturbance.
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USA
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Posted: 2/28/2015 7:08:54 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fordracing19:
My BF7240 HD finally showed up today. Really nice safe but I am disappointed in the led lighting. Left strip goes 3/4 way up and the right strip only 1/2 way. For the price I expected more. No lighting on the top shelves? So in your opinion, the lighting option is not worth it? I will be looking into other lighting solutions.... Send me a pic if you can, or TSG, I don't think I've seen many pics of the bf series with lighting upgrade. Have a good one... MikeD73USA |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 7:56:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#30]
Well, the lighting option is a good solution for my needs, but some may want more. When the room is well lit, it doesn't look real strong, but in a dim setting, or the dark, it's a blinding torch. I have my strips staggered, left side high, right side low. The lighting is more than adequate in every space for my taste, and I have a lot of stuff packed in there.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 3/1/2015 8:57:00 PM EDT
[#31]
It's a decent lighting kit with two strings of LED lights for those not inclined to make their own.
You can build your own set up with as much lighting as you want including under shelving for around half the price. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 11:00:27 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
That's an older Major Safe McDonald's unit. The locker is the Armored Car compartment, Built in the mid 80's I think. Good reliable beast of a safe. As for value, I have no clue what used safe sell for today. Maybe someone else can chime in. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Originally Posted By gasdoc09:
I'm looking at a used TL-30 safe being sold by a local locksmith / vault company. The sales guy in the store doesn't know much about it, and the owner wasn't around. Its a heavy steel safe, no fire protection as far as I can tell but I'm OK with that. Finish is pretty worn but I'm OK with that too. Manufacturer is Major. It's about 48" tall, 24" wide, 30" deep with about 3" thick walls. Don't have a weight. UL tag on the front says "Underwriters Laboratories listed Tool Resistant Safe TL-30 Burglary". Inside view of the lock has a plate that says "Group 2 R6700 Series Sargent Greenleaf Nicholasville KY USA". Inside is empty, except for a low shelf 10" off the bottom with a dual-key secured lockbox under it. I'd greatly appreciate anything you can tell me about it, what you think would be a fair price, or anything else I should be aware of. They can service the lock, set the combo for me, and deliver/place it. Thanks. That's an older Major Safe McDonald's unit. The locker is the Armored Car compartment, Built in the mid 80's I think. Good reliable beast of a safe. As for value, I have no clue what used safe sell for today. Maybe someone else can chime in. I ended up buying it. $2300 cash out the door. They replaced the lock on the interior compartment, serviced the main lock, set the combination, cleaned it up, drilled a hole for power/network. Delivery and placement included. They're also moving the RSC it's replacing up a flight of stairs for me. Nice dealing with a local company that actually knows something about safes. They had a few Amsecs on display, including a very nice BF in the place of honor just inside the front door. I feel better already knowing there'll be some real security around some of the nicer parts of my collection. My only disappointment is that my TRG-42 isn't going to fit. Maybe time to buy the folding stock for it ... 
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NH, USA
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Posted: 3/6/2015 10:17:49 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryI ended up buying it. $2300 cash out the door. They replaced the lock on the interior compartment, serviced the main lock, set the combination, cleaned it up, drilled a hole for power/network. Delivery and placement included. They're also moving the RSC it's replacing up a flight of stairs for me. Nice dealing with a local company that actually knows something about safes. They had a few Amsecs on display, including a very nice BF in the place of honor just inside the front door. I feel better already knowing there'll be some real security around some of the nicer parts of my collection. My only disappointment is that my TRG-42 isn't going to fit. Maybe time to buy the folding stock for it ... Sounds like it all worked out! What lock did you end up getting? |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 3/31/2015 5:12:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: andrew1182]
[#34]
So I finally took delivery of my BF 7240 today. The safe is awesome. I do have one concern though. I ordered the black chrome hardware, but it appears that the American Security lettering and their insignia are both the polished chrome while the handles and lock are correct. Is this normal?
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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:10:01 PM EDT
[#35]
Define "normal".
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KY, USA
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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:21:15 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By a1abdj:
Define "normal".
Lol, shouldn't it all match? |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:30:10 PM EDT
[#37]
In that case, yes it should.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:38:23 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By a1abdj:
In that case, yes it should.
Well, that sucks. I suppose that if this is the worst problem I have I'm in decent shape. TSG, any advice on who to contact? |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:54:12 PM EDT
[#39]
I would contact the selling dealer.
The good news is that it's a really easy fix. The old ones pop off, and the new ones pop on with little effort. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:59:55 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By a1abdj:
I would contact the selling dealer. The good news is that it's a really easy fix. The old ones pop off, and the new ones pop on with little effort. I did that, and was assured that is how they all are. I wasn't convinced. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 7:19:17 PM EDT
[#41]
I'm checking on this now....
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Posted: 3/31/2015 7:22:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: a1abdj]
[#42]
I did that, and was assured that is how they all are. I wasn't convinced. Perhaps they have never seen one in person. Not the best picture, but you get the idea. 
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KY, USA
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Posted: 3/31/2015 7:30:03 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
I'm checking on this now.... Thanks. I've got a pic of the box with all the specs and serial number from today as well if you need any of that. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 9:55:01 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By andrew1182:
I did that, and was assured that is how they all are. I wasn't convinced. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By andrew1182:
Originally Posted By a1abdj:
I would contact the selling dealer. The good news is that it's a really easy fix. The old ones pop off, and the new ones pop on with little effort. I did that, and was assured that is how they all are. I wasn't convinced. My Sandstone color BF was ordered with brass(gold) colored hardware and the American Security logo was also brass in color. Mine is a very late 2009 model. I think a mistake was made on yours. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 11:39:22 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By andrew1182:
Thanks. I've got a pic of the box with all the specs and serial number from today as well if you need any of that. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By andrew1182:
Originally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
I'm checking on this now.... Thanks. I've got a pic of the box with all the specs and serial number from today as well if you need any of that. I talked to the people involved. This is apparently the best they have in the black nickel colored logos. The vendor that makes these parts is constantly struggling to get the black tint to come out on the flat faces. I took a black nickel part and compared it to a Chrome part, and there is a distinct difference. The problem is mostly due to the flat surfaces as you look straight on to the parts. The logos have a lot of frontal flat surfaces, whereas none of the other components present flat faces to the front. If you look off from an angle, the colors come much closer to similar. Black Nickel is like a candy color paint-job, where the light reflects the color is lighter. These look much better against dark colors. I'm going to look thru some of the parts and see if I can find some that present a darker tint. I'll let you know what I can find. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 4/1/2015 7:34:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: andrew1182]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
I talked to the people involved. This is apparently the best they have in the black nickel colored logos. The vendor that makes these parts is constantly struggling to get the black tint to come out on the flat faces. I took a black nickel part and compared it to a Chrome part, and there is a distinct difference. The problem is mostly due to the flat surfaces as you look straight on to the parts. The logos have a lot of frontal flat surfaces, whereas none of the other components present flat faces to the front. If you look off from an angle, the colors come much closer to similar. Black Nickel is like a candy color paint-job, where the light reflects the color is lighter. These look much better against dark colors. I'm going to look thru some of the parts and see if I can find some that present a darker tint. I'll let you know what I can find. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Originally Posted By andrew1182:
Originally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
I'm checking on this now.... Thanks. I've got a pic of the box with all the specs and serial number from today as well if you need any of that. I talked to the people involved. This is apparently the best they have in the black nickel colored logos. The vendor that makes these parts is constantly struggling to get the black tint to come out on the flat faces. I took a black nickel part and compared it to a Chrome part, and there is a distinct difference. The problem is mostly due to the flat surfaces as you look straight on to the parts. The logos have a lot of frontal flat surfaces, whereas none of the other components present flat faces to the front. If you look off from an angle, the colors come much closer to similar. Black Nickel is like a candy color paint-job, where the light reflects the color is lighter. These look much better against dark colors. I'm going to look thru some of the parts and see if I can find some that present a darker tint. I'll let you know what I can find. Thanks for your help! I originally hoped that it might be a case of the way the light hits it, but then the delivery driver, my neighbor, my neighbor's 7 year old, and my wife all asked me why the two didn't match. That's when I admitted that I had a problem, haha. If you could find some that match a little more closely it would be awesome. I'm very pleased with the safe over all, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little let down by how different in appearance the logo and handles are. Thanks |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 8:29:10 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By andrew1182:
Thanks for your help! I originally hoped that it might be a case of the way the light hits it, but then the delivery driver, my neighbor, my neighbor's 7 year old, and my wife all asked me why the two didn't match. That's when I admitted that I had a problem, haha. If you could find some that match a little more closely it would be awesome. I'm very pleased with the safe over all, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little let down by how different in appearance the logo and handles are. Thanks Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By andrew1182:
Originally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Originally Posted By andrew1182:
Originally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
I'm checking on this now.... Thanks. I've got a pic of the box with all the specs and serial number from today as well if you need any of that. I talked to the people involved. This is apparently the best they have in the black nickel colored logos. The vendor that makes these parts is constantly struggling to get the black tint to come out on the flat faces. I took a black nickel part and compared it to a Chrome part, and there is a distinct difference. The problem is mostly due to the flat surfaces as you look straight on to the parts. The logos have a lot of frontal flat surfaces, whereas none of the other components present flat faces to the front. If you look off from an angle, the colors come much closer to similar. Black Nickel is like a candy color paint-job, where the light reflects the color is lighter. These look much better against dark colors. I'm going to look thru some of the parts and see if I can find some that present a darker tint. I'll let you know what I can find. Thanks for your help! I originally hoped that it might be a case of the way the light hits it, but then the delivery driver, my neighbor, my neighbor's 7 year old, and my wife all asked me why the two didn't match. That's when I admitted that I had a problem, haha. If you could find some that match a little more closely it would be awesome. I'm very pleased with the safe over all, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little let down by how different in appearance the logo and handles are. Thanks Mo better!! Safe Guy helped me out once when the Amsec sticker on my dial combo bubbled up. Thanks again Safe Guy. Andrew what size is your BF? |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 4/1/2015 8:37:30 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By heeler1:
Andrew what size is your BF? 7240 |
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Posted: 4/6/2015 5:25:57 PM EDT
[#49]
TSG - Can you please answer a question for me?
I am having a vault built this week, and I don't have the door yet. The minimum opening listed for the VD8036BF is 79.5" H x 35.5" W, but it does not mention a maximum. I am a bit nervous having them make the opening exactly 79.5" H x 35.5" W in case it's all done and the door arrives, and it won't fit by 1/8" or something crazy like that. I'd like to know what the maximum opening size is, and make the opening somewhere in between (Closer to the minimum). I know it adjusts for wall thickness, but does it adjust for height or width? Thanks in advance!!! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 4/6/2015 5:38:41 PM EDT
[#50]
I am having a vault built this week, and I don't have the door yet.
The minimum opening listed for the VD8036BF is 79.5" H x 35.5" W, but it does not mention a maximum. I am a bit nervous having them make the opening exactly 79.5" H x 35.5" W in case it's all done and the door arrives, and it won't fit by 1/8" or something crazy like that. I'd like to know what the maximum opening size is, and make the opening somewhere in between (Closer to the minimum). I know it adjusts for wall thickness, but does it adjust for height or width? Not trying to sound like a broken record, or an ass....... But why can't the dealer you're purchasing from answer these questions? |
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